Same way you beat all his men, hits to the castle drawbridge then gate then into the castle. It just takes a lot more hits (don't know the actual count for each) and the moat does pulse the entire time once you beat the first five men and KOP is up next.

I had this problem when I had Titan silicon rubbers on the slings. I messed with it for hours and thought I had it fixed many times but as soon as multi-player games or competition really started it came back. I put black rubber on the slings and haven't had the problem once since. One of these days I'll probably try to revisit it but for now it's staying with black sling rubbers.

Because the trolls have power and hold circuits they are handled by flipper circuits. Q84 and Q81 are the power (raise) drivers and Q83 and Q86 are the hold drivers. There are no capacitors in these circuits so something else is causing this. I've never seen this before, did both Trolls start having the problem at the same time? Are the flippers strong and working properly when the trolls won't pop up? Check the connectors at J119 and J120, make sure they are not burnt and that they are tight. I would then measure voltage at the tab of Q84 and Q81 (in Solenoid test mode with the interlock switch pulled out, hopefully I don't have to tell you to be careful while doing this as high voltage is present).

I don't have a lot of experience with LED flashers but all of them that I've seen are larger than a 906 so you'd have to check for physical size. Comet is usually my go-to for LEDs but again, I don't usually convert flashers to LED with a few exceptions.

Is it a tilt warning?

I'd put it in switch test mode and start hitting switches to make sure only the correct one is registering, start with the troll you replaced then the catapult and tilt Bob and all other switches in those rows and columns.

Yep, that's how I adjust VUK strengths all the time.

Yes they should but with them being inside the backbox they aren't going to receive enough light to really cause an issue, I'd still put something on them though.

Directly below and above the battery holder is where you would see it. You might want to post your issue to the Tech: Modern Game thread to get more exposure and suggestions. Despite the popularity of this game this thread doesn't really see a lot of posts / traffic.

Installing an off-board battery holder is much easier than installing NVRAM on these games because the chip is not socketed and the traces on the boards are fairly easy to screw up. You also lose the clock and midnight madness modes unless you also install an external battery holder. Personally I went the NVRAM route because I can do the board work myself just fine.

I've read that it does, have always meant to set the time on mine to see it but have never done so. I have NVRAM and no batteries in mine so playing it actually at Midnight (which I've certainly done many times but not specifically on purpose to see the mode) doesn't really work.

Your picture isn't the greatest but that looks like it might be the one that goes over the Dragon to prevent an air-ball from getting stuck on it's back.

The "fix" for drawbridges that won't go all the way up anymore is not real easy and involves using some cable ties to help make the fit tighter. As is stated in here balls getting stuck behind the drawbridge may result in the cable tie getting broken or pushed up but that's better than breaking the link assembly.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/adjusting-gatemedieval-madness

Might help people find them if you included a link to your listings.

People still snipe E-bay auctions? Wow what a flashback, I hardly buy anything on there anymore.

And the top edges are beveled in about 3/4 of an inch on each end.

Sounds like the one of the ribbon cables or associated connectors are starting to fail, you may want to try re-seating the one that goes from the MPU to the Audio / Visual board and be absolutely you don't put it back on one row off. Do this with the game off of course.

But why?? If you really want the large display just sell your OG MM and buy MMR. Doing what you propose would result in some bastardized game that most likely no one else would ever want and you'd have to sell at a significant loss. I know we are a hobby that likes to make some crazy projects work but this one just makes no sense at all to me.

Long shot here but I wonder if anyone has a great suggestion or method on how to fix the troll armature that's coming apart on my right troll assembly. I noticed that it was not operating smoothly and when I pulled the assembly apart I could feel the armature dragging in the coil sleeve, further dissasembly revealed some metal bits and it appears that the roll pin (assuming it was a roll pin) broke and is allowing the two pieces to separate partially. I tried to knock the remaining part of the pin out but so far no luck with that. I thought about drilling it out but even if I can how do I find the proper sized roll pin to replace it??

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There is a separate MMR owners thread.

I don't necessarily have a problem with MMR discussion where it intersects with MM being in here, things like gameplay, strategy, etc. all make sense. However since there IS a dedicated thread for MMR why wouldn't you discuss things like different version of MMRs, features, etc. in THAT thread where is belongs? In fact that stuff has probably already been asked and answered in that thread before.

Sure, you can get them from multiple sources including directly from PPS / Bay Area Amusement. The RadCals from Micro are really beautiful and do reduce the amount of prep work you have to do so I'd suggest you consider them unless you're really going for an OG look and feel.

Looks great, I've never seen the Red Trolls installed but it wouldn't match the ColorDMD so I wouldn't personally want them. I agree with you about the art blades but you might consider mirror blades. I tend leave my games pretty stock (my MM is still incandescent except for retro warm whites in the GI) but put my first set of mirror blades in my MM when I put it in a new cabinet and I really, really like them in this game.

There are at least a couple different style protectors available for that bare wood lock entrance and yours looks like one of them. The one I have also has a metal piece that extends out in front of the drawbridge hinges to protect those from taking a beating, I don't remember which one is the Mantis one though.

It doesn't light during ball save timer, the Magic Shield insert flashes for that but it should light when you have an extra ball waiting for you.

I ended up putting small slivers of foam under the wedge piece that holds it up-right, has held up very well so far.

The green plastic moat is often busted up and patched together in some way if the game has been operated. Also take a close look at the troll carriages as the welds tend to break where it meets the part that bolts to the plunger.

For the cabinet damage you could re-decal the cabinet with the typical Gen2 vinyl decals or with Radcals which are more expensive but look amazing and don't take as much work to prepare the cabinet for them.

The playfield damage looks like you'd have to remove the clearcoat in that area, remove the rest of the decal on that insert, apply a new decal and then just mylar it or re-clear that area. I'm not a playfield restoration guy in any way shape or form but you may want to check out Vid's guide to playfield restoration thread for idea.

Do you have a bench 12VDC supply sitting around you can test the motor with? Based on your results I suspect the motor is bad, does the brige run up and down smoothly when it does run? Nothing binding or making it harder than it should be for the motor to turn?

If it registers sometimes but not always you proably do have a flaky switch or the little tabs that the arm pivots on are worn and the arm has too much slop and doesn't always push the button all the way in. Probably easiest to just replace it, they can't really be cleaned internally.

Closest would be to increase both of these to maximum values so you have to be having a pretty great game to get it.

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You had me until this, I think melting the witch is WAY easier than getting to, much less winning BFTK. That doesn't mean either is easy, but I can get to MTW pretty regularly.

100% agree on this, ColorDMD LCD in High Res looks fantastic in MM, huge improvement!

Sounds like one of your related switches if registering phantomly, probably from vibration. You could put the game in switch test and bang on the playfield with your hand to see if / what's registering and then adjust that switch.

I used this one from PPS, nice and thick and fits well. http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-03-9681-7&Category_Code=GS-4032

I'd probably get a 12v power supply and run it of the service outlet.

Is this for the really long metal guide that goes all the way around the joust loop, if so count me in.

Man, I'd love to see this in person!

Funny you say that because I went to see how this compared in price to the 3D one, didn't realize they don't sell them anymore. I didn't buy the 3D one because I had a mini-version of one custom made and installed backlit in the instructions card spot on the apron years before they did the translite, thought it would be redundant to have both. My OG MM is pretty pimped out with custom powder coat and Racals so I may just have the take the plunge on this and hope it looks even better in person than in that video.

How bad is it rubbing? I use the Pinball Universe cabinet protectors from PBL that slide in to protect the blades whenever I lift / lower the PF (this is on any game with art or mirror blades), if those will fit between the PF and sides you should be good to go using them.

Wow, that's tight! I've seen some people put thin, soft felt-like material on the sides of the playfied to protect the sides as well.

I'm not familiar with that mod but if it's suppose to work connected to a GI bulb it should have rectifier diodes in it (just like LEDs), perhaps yours is defective?

It says it's for remake or OG so if it doesn't work connected to GI something is wrong with it, no? Am I missing something?

To reach Battle for the Kingdom you have light all of these:

Castle Crusher: Beat King and all his men.
Master or Trolls: Knock down 10 (adjustable but this is default I believe) Trolls.
Defender of Damsels: Save the Damsel Three Times.
Catapult Ace: Complete the Catapult Launch Three Times.
Joust Champion: Complete Joust Victory Three Times.
Patron of the Peasants: Complete Peasants Revolt Three Times.

Note that you can earn one each or certain of the above during "Royal Madness".

Lots of additional detail can be found in the rulesheet here: https://gamefaqs.gamespot.com/pinball/915940-medieval-madness/faqs/1454

I had this issue too, I was able to just slightly bend the wireform a little to make sure it was leaning in towards the middle of the playfield a little. Taking the mounting nut off the bottom end helped facilitate being able to do so. Haven't had a ball fly off there in hundreds of plays since.

Have you tried putting it in switch test mode and banging on the playfield with your palm to see if any switch(es) register from vibration? Could be a weak / failing opto at the gate but I'm not sure that would cause the VUK to fire.

If I remember correctly it was one of the very first ones that ColorDMD developed, now you can choose between LCD and LED versions:

www.colordmd.com

That is purely subjective as you will see from this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/colordmd-lcd-versus-led

I personally prefer the LCD version in MM because the animations look great to me in smoothing mode but not everyone else agrees, of course. Peruse that thread and look at screen shots, etc. and decide for yourself.

A 4001 is okay in the switch matrix but not on a coil. Put the game is switch test and activate the troll up switches manually, see if any other switches register when you do that and if it's only if they are both up or just one. You may have a pinched wire somewhere when they raise.

It says old or new OWNERS, not OG or remake. There is a seperate thread for MMR: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mmr-owners-club-all-things-mmr-discussed

Have you watched any of the YouTube videos of the game being played with the LCD in smoothing mode? Do that, if you like that look get the LCD, if you don't and prefer dots get the LED.

oooo, that's pretty!

If you bought a remake you're in the wrong club, there's a separate thread for that game. But congratulations either way!

Catapult should be an AL-23-800 according to the owner's manual.

It's very simple, load the ROM onto a USB stick, insert it in the slot and then use the buttons to navigate to the upgrade function. There's even a video with instructions here: https://www.colordmd.com/support_firmware_chroma.html

Yeah, I did it years ago. It's the LCD version, install was easy and it looks outstanding, especially after adjusting brightness and contrast for best results.