Terminator 2: Judgment Day
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Picking up a T2 tomorrow once I get it back I will post some pictures. So the graphics on the cabinet especially the back box look pretty rough but supposedly the game itself plays 100% as it should. So I will probably be making this a pretty major restoration project. Dream to own one of these. Hope this deal doesn't crumble tomorrow.
Okay it’s home and set up playing.
The good:
- the game itself seems to be 100% working
- speakers are loud and clear all audio working
- DMD seems good and strong.
- playfield I would say I’d surprisingly good
- claim of all LED and seems true.
- couple mods in the t1000 in front of the bumpers and the flying ship is new with led blinkers.
Cons:
- I knew the wood on the cabinetry was rough but it’s worse than I thought. Really rough with lots of corners delaminating.
- he even franken supported a spot drilling in a 2x2 support on the inside to support the bottom.
- coin door is apparently not original.
- glass slides in and out too easy seems little to no foam seal on the sides or on the lock bar.
- one spot if playfield I see some flaking of the clear coat on the right inlane and has slightly damaged colours.
So I may dive in deep on a full restoration project. It will be my first restoration. The cabinet may be okay with a combo of bindo and. We laminate.
Got me thinking with the amount of wood work this needs is there an option out there to just buy a new blank Williams cabinet I can put graphics on and basically shift everything over to?
6B6E9553-61E0-4569-A611-B9898C94A8B9 (resized).jpeg818F79DD-F6C2-430E-9C5B-0C8A90400F9C (resized).jpeg84C33F34-FB2F-4970-892B-1E20742FE0A9 (resized).jpeg9F2A1C9C-179A-4F18-AC33-F4C5B0DD5D21 (resized).jpegA4280414-C48A-4FEA-AF0E-D92BAECB8D5E (resized).jpegA7026852-4822-4D60-93BF-B3BB6DE0945F (resized).jpegThanks.
Any thoughts on the cabinet in the pictures. I don't know for sure there isn't any kind of swelling or wet rot but that one corner looks pretty loose and I am worried an attempt to restore it would require extra reinforcing in some way.
The back box I think I could restore to great condition.
Quoted from Manny65:Missing the right ramp entrance plastic & brackets
Looks like it's missing the blue pad on the left return wireform
"no foam seal on the sides"?? do you mean the plastic siderail channels are missing? https://www.pinballlife.com/playfield-glass-side-rail-plastic-channel.html
"coin door is apparently not original" - show us a pic of the coin door
Hmm thankyou looking now.
Quoted from Manny65:Missing the right ramp entrance plastic & brackets
Looks like it's missing the blue pad on the left return wireform
"no foam seal on the sides"?? do you mean the plastic siderail channels are missing? https://www.pinballlife.com/playfield-glass-side-rail-plastic-channel.html
"coin door is apparently not original" - show us a pic of the coin door
Yes I will take a closer look when I am at the cabinet next as I have it over at a rental house were working on. I will get a picture of that coin door and yes the side rail plastics is what must be missing I will look next time but it does seem its just under the metal only atm the way it slides in and out and even starts moving when you take off the lock bar.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:There's absolutely no doubt that your game was in water for a bit. Everything i'm seeing is text-book flood damage. I am curious if all the bits under the playfield are rusted and corroded also.
Dang dude now I am scared to look but I shall and then post pictures.
Quoted from dtrimberger:I've never lived in a humid place while owning pins but wouldn't that have to be A LOT of humidity? Did you rescue this from the jungles of Borneo Kabball ? If yes please tell me you did it with a fedora and a whip.
As far as your restoration my fear for you is that you'll have a hard time offloading this pin moving forward if you don't fix the cab and it doesn't appear to be a simple fix. The restoration cabs listed above look like a nice option though, I wasn't aware those existed before.
Anyway, good luck, keep us in the loop on what you decide. I'm definitely following because I feel like I've reached a point in pinball prices where I might consider a cheap water damaged pin to restore at some point.
Yah I feel like T2 probably is a very long term if not indefinite keeper for me BUT that doesn't negate your point. This may very well just need a new cabinet, I meant to contact the Vpin place today but the day got away from me with work. I will contact them soon.
Quoted from Gubbin:Paul is a great dude but he runs a small crew. Expect a long lead time. I'd recommend to call him.
Doh I am a spontaneous dude I just pulled the trigger - not cheap went with the full trim cabinet so full cabinet with back box, side rails and lock bar with the coin door. added glass and the decals for the back of the cabinet etc etc. total of 1700 for the cabinet and 600 freight shipping. Yah gonna be 4-6 weeks it said estimated.
Thats okay gives me time to look for a few missing plastics on the playfield and in general think about if I want to dive deeper on the playfield or not
Okay so as to the possible water damage and possible rust on the bottom of the playfield. I got a better look today and although the bottom of the cab is rather grungy looking. I feel like the bottom of the playfield is rather clean looking. Any thoughts?
I also put in a few playfield shots including the right inlane which I feel is the worst spot. But you can see a fair bit of that protective Mylar? Stickers around.
077519F0-7D12-444B-8C59-BE5E2C21EB76 (resized).jpeg255B1D8C-27CC-4818-BB2F-00C509BFF41C (resized).jpeg5A86E5BE-B254-4D87-B800-1E6C79D4A312 (resized).jpeg7703E5F4-DCF0-4737-992C-FCD4424DD6C2 (resized).jpeg9AD86FD5-1EAC-4376-9E72-4A5A3FEC008A (resized).jpegC4D7A6DD-E1EC-4146-B58B-631573B3EA5D (resized).jpegD8E4616B-E3C4-4095-9D25-AF02C07E71E0 (resized).jpegEBCCEEF3-F047-49C8-9080-695918373B20 (resized).jpegFD06A270-38F8-43C8-9F34-E5341ACA7947 (resized).jpegQuoted from Manny65:Looks fine to me - drop target and flipper mechs need some work, but that's pretty straight forward
Please what do you see mate I lack the experience.
Quoted from Averell:I just concern about the surface of the playfield. If I'm looking at it correctly, there is a crack that goes through the wood next to the eye of the skull. Also, this seems to be the case in several places. If the wood is swollen, it needs to be sanded down or at least sanded. Also, the inserts are usually hollowed out around the edges of the T2. Taping and brushing the contours would be necessary here. I had to do that on my T2 as well and it was really a lot of work. The typical damage to the holes and places where the balls thunder onto the surface.... this all had to be refurbished, sanded and repainted. Cliffy's are also a must to protect that permanently afterwards.
Yah there are some very slight cracks.
In your opinion is this an obvious candidate for a full sanding and clear coating restoration OR is this more of a situation where one may as well get the new playfield if they are going to that work
Thanks to the multiple comments above about going full rebuild with my cab, I basically had come to the same conclusion before getting on here and catching up with this thread.
I was both inspecting the pin pretty thoroughly today. Although yes the underside was not rusty which was great to see there are so many shabby looking connections. But on the playfield itself it seems to be extremely “ridge” and “groove” riddled. And not because of cracks or swelling in the wood I don’t think but the amount of stickers and decals seems excessive almost like the clear protective mylar decals are super thick and have a definitive thick ridge along them. Then the insert decals feel like someone has stacked one on top of the other maybe several times over the years and they have major ridges along them. I have definitely seen slow moving balls do some funky shifts in movement.
Surprisingly the game seems to function 100% gameplay wise.
Yah even though I didn’t pay much this will be a fun labor of love and definitely never be worth what I put into it. Heck this will probably be a 10k T2 when I’m done.
The full repro cab was 2300 with shipping to Canada. But that gives me a lot it’s full trim so legs, side rails, locking bar, glass, coin door etc etc.
I will need to buy a full new playfield and I am certain I will be getting new plastics and rubbers along with I’m sure a significant amount of mechanicals for the underside.
I will go color DMD probably, maybe new speaks and so on.
Fuck it, let’s go!
So on that playfield there is no option until January or February?
Mean while I can strip the playfield and that leads me to ask about buying one of those rotisserie things for the playfield. Any suggestions?
Quoted from dinot:Had my eye on that. Planetary Pinball's is in stock but it is much higher than Buthamburg. PP cheapest shipping option is $72. So unless Buthamburg has an insanely high shipping amount it is a better deal. Though, I have no idea what it would cost to ship a PF from Germany to the US.
Also, the one reviewer mentioned 2 things. I've done a couple of PF swaps, so not too worried.
1) "No T-Nuts installed." - No big deal. Insert T-nut, 2 light taps from the hammer. T-Nut doesn't need to sit flush with the PF. When you tighten the screw it will pull it up.
2) "You need to make the countersunk for the Pop Bumper mounting screws" - I have no idea what this means. Does anyone have a thought?
You say the planetary pinball one is much higher but I think that difference is just one listed in USD and one in Euro? Anyhow looks like Buth is the supplier for PP so no sense in waiting on Buth assuming PO isn’t lying about them being in stock
Quoted from dinot:Converted to USD, Buthamburg is listed at $815. PP is $1078. That is quite a difference. PP is $1150 delivered. The million dollar question is what Buth charges to ship. Even at $200 shipping (I have no idea, just making this up), the Buth is the better deal at $1015.
I guess the Euro to USD conversion has changed a lot since I last looked. If in stop a couple hundred bucks may be worth what could turn into 60+ days waiting on Buth
Quoted from Manny65:The flipper rebuild kit will get the flipper mechs sorted.
On the drop target, there are 2 springs (one to pull the target down and one of the small coil to reset it's actuator arm) both of these need replacing. Also there's a missing screw hold the brass actuator arm on the small coil.
Unless you're doing a full PF swap, I'd suggest that you work your way through stripping and cleaning each mech, replacing any coil sleeves and damaged parts. Use the manual and parts list (both are downloadable from IPDB) to help out part numbers etc - also googling part and assembly numbers will give you lots of images for you to compare yours with.
Wiring hacks can be a little tricker as to what has been done and why; and whether the inclusion of mods and associated power taps are suitable.
I appreciate the response but I have indeed decided on a complete playfield swap ( small chance I sand and clear coat the existing one but most likely new playfield ) but all this advice will obviously still apply. As I put each Mech onto the new playfield I will need to make sure everything is perfect and ancient bits replaced with new etc. Excited to dive in.
Quoted from dtrimberger:Yes, DIY rotisserie
I honestly think if you pump the brakes a bit and play the pin as is for a bit you might be able to save a few bucks figuring out which mechs need replacing vs repairing. By the time you get that done the new buthamburgs will be here.
Always sage advice to take a moment. In fact I just got done with a session and was enjoying myself. Then the drop targets that the cannon shoots into stopped registering :/ - so yes I could do a small repair now to build experience or just start stripping!
Oh and yes I watched a video about a DIY rotisserie using the miter saw stand gonna go that route should be no more than 150
Quoted from EStroh:I'm doing a semi-scratch build starting with an IJ that was under water. By any chance have you pulled any screws out from the bottom of the playfield? Do they look like this?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-and-indian-jones-semi-scratch-builds/page/2
No not yet but based on your images and what my eyes have shown me so far I do not believe I have rust in the same way that you do. I am not so sure my cabinet was ever in serious water or even outside as one pinsider suspected. But being in Vancouver BC we live in 100% humidity if this was left in some outside shed with no climate control it would get serious moisture. But again even though the wood looks like this i do not see any rust to speak of on the playfield underside at all.
I do not suspect the playfield is warped either but I will get it stripped then maybe take one last decision on whether I sand and clear coat or just get the new full PF.
Okay just got this set up in this catch all room for the Christmas break I can work on the T2 playfield and get it stripped. Still waiting on the friction swivel plates so just a ghetto lock nut setup for now.
110315F7-35D8-46C8-9BB9-06B8D5297CBC (resized).jpegRotisserie was about 150$ Canadian
99$ for that mitre stand
like 25$ ish in the steel pieces ( which is crap home depot store prices, go to a proper steel place for a lot less I would assume )
another 30$ ish in the c-clamps and nuts and bolts.
Once the proper friction swivel plates arrive I will be around 200$ CDN. Which is about 150$ USD these days.
I think there will end up being very little on this playfield that I reuse in the way of mechs and plastics, bumpers etc. Everything seems super worn out and on the end of collapse. Plastics cracked all over, bumpers look ragged, the bank targets look really bad etc. Obv the wire forms and metal ramps and a few more metal bits are fine once cleaned up but I may end up pretty much replacing everything.
Is every part on a T2 available from somewhere or is there a few bits of unobtainium I need to be aware of.
Okay I nearly have this playfield stripped down. A few images to show a few details and see if the masses have some thoughts.
Definitely some major wear at the skull hole.
Also I am not experienced at this but it seems the pop bumper are was installed fairly Mickey Mouse I have a hard time believing this was the factory install. There are these three overly long threaded nails that protrude way down and on the top side are hideous with some cover up attempted.
Anyhow wonder what you folks see
4ACEB032-5527-4302-A7F0-0837B2DD3ACA (resized).jpeg4B797BAF-3060-4617-9C67-126D0C91C6ED (resized).jpeg8005CA9C-DCE3-458F-83D0-DF45EED354E3 (resized).jpeg89A32D19-596B-4DF5-B906-DE7B8D855652 (resized).jpegEF15D080-B165-4772-88C3-B25A8782BDDF (resized).jpegI guess I feel like even if the main surface area seems restorable via sanding and clearcoat it just comes across as kind of a butchered playfield board and not worth attempting a rescue. If I am going to all this effort I may as well get something properly legit so to speak and get that new PF.
Quoted from dinot:Here are some pics of a PF that I had done some years back. I think it had more filth than yours and it turned out great. The after pic isn't a very good pic, but it was quite shiny afterwards.
Looks great.
Okay I still plan to pull off the Mylar tonight after I pick up some compressed air and then clean it even further but here it is with a baseline clean.
A few bad lines like where the right ramp goes I believe. The Center cpu sticker issue I think is a small piece of decal gone. In general all the insert decals seem “tall” with a ridge idk if that’s normal or if there are perhaps decals stacked on decals.
2639BF1E-8C65-43EF-B838-57E5C6FD7355 (resized).jpeg28CDB888-03BB-4429-A8E3-D9C028280986 (resized).jpeg3AA4BBEC-83EC-4403-ABB2-E7E169FFCE46 (resized).jpegF0F4F5A6-AA00-4010-A6D6-764C45F10307 (resized).jpegQuoted from Averell:In my opinion the playfield can be rescued.
Here are some pictures how my playfield looks like before and how it looks like after a lot of work!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/152#post-5369816
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-clubmembers-only/page/151#post-5306554
Looks good mate - leaning towards restoration I guess because it kind of feels like more of a full journey on this project if you know what I mean.
I will appreciate your advice as I put questions into this thread
Quoted from dtrimberger:At work and only had a chance to look at the links you posted but do you have your resto process/technique documented anywhere?
Yes I would love to learn more here as well. I basically will be following a Cary Hardy video on when he restored the playfield on his Johnny Mnemonic this seems to be just what I need.
So one other thing that has been bothering me is that it kept feeling like this playfield was mounding high in the middle. But I just wrote this off to having the clamps on the 4 corners and a fairly thick weather stripping on my rotisserie.
But I took the 4 clamps off and laid this board across the skull image in the middle of the playfield as it seemed the highest and this is what I see.
This os also the board that was screwed down to the playfield length wise so I’m pretty confident that board is straight.
Idk I am willing to be schooled here but I think this is a major problem for keeping this playfield after all. Would love your thoughts.
Yes that is open air a decent amount on both sides of the middle hump.
749806C1-A902-46C3-BF08-04355C43AA85 (resized).jpeg2C5F6E74-EB21-46E3-89B0-31DFF90D53BC (resized).jpegQuoted from Scoot:That seems like a decent amount of flex but it's not terrible. I recently installed a CPR playfield that I had leaning against the wall for a few months. Because I had it leaning slightly at an angle, the wood cured over time and developed a significant warpage or hump in the middle of the playfield. I was worried but installed it anyway. With everything on the playfield, it seem to flatten out nicely and looks great. I doubt you would be able to notice with everything on the playfield. Just my opinion.
Thanks I was hoping to get some opinions on this like yours. Either way I just want to be sure, since I am putting so much into this pin with a completely new repro cabinet I may as well make sure this thing ends up perfect. But a new playfield is probably another 1600 CDN by the time I get it. Again if it needs it I will spend it but yah if its not necessary why waste as well.
Quoted from Averell:The entire story and restoration process can be found here:
https://www.flippermarkt.de/community/forum/threads/averells-terminator-2-ill-be-back.190197/
Cabinet, Backbox, Wiring, Mods, Topper, Backplex, Circuits, Shaker, Programming, Playfield, everything is shown in pictures.
It was a journey for about 4 years to complete and finish this machine again.
This will be priceless.
Quoted from AD72:Joined the club. Barely fits in a 2014 Outback. Needed to remove the spare tire hatch cover.
[quoted image]
Right on dude - also cool to know you can squeeze one in an outback. I have a truck now but kept the outback for the kids car, so on incliment weather where I cant have something in the back of my truck the outback is an option
Quoted from Luckdragon100:Just to close the loop on this from a few weeks ago. I spoke with Randy at ColorDMD and he explained my purple square / blotch was a module issue and I could either send in the faulty module for potential repair at $30 + shipping or buy 2 new modules for $60 + shipping. I bought the 2 new modules, installed tonight, and now I'm back to 100%. Feels great Thanks for all the help diagnosing! G
[quoted image]
I would love to see full pictures of your full cab and playfield as I am working on a restoration atm
Hey guys been about 9 months since I was last on this forum and probably missed countless helpful posts. Anyhow I am about to start my T2 total refurb.
By way of reminder my cabinet was incredibly bad, I bought a brand new Williams Cabinet reproduction with T2 graphics from Virtua Pin. Took forever to get but looks great. I got the one with full trim meaning coin door etc etc.
Okay so now I am back to my dilemna on the playfield. Mine looks okay after cleaning and now I debate clear coating it and rolling with it or getting a new playfield since everything else will be so perfect and new.
Are there any options available atm? A quick search shows that one out of Germany has not had another run or I can't find one for sale. One ebay company had the stick on variety. Any suggestions on playfields out there in the wild to buy and use for this project or am I stuck refurbing my existing one?
Thanks - feels good to be back.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Buthamburg should have them by the end of the year.
Thank you! worth the wait I think
Quoted from mmr61184:Anybody else get a shipping notification from Buthamburg
Yes just now
Okay guys so I am finally ready to start my big T2 restoration with the arrival of this new Buthemberg playfield which looks amazing.
I now have a brand new reproduction cabinet from Virtuapin with the T2 graphics already applied and this new reproduction playfield. So because of that this really isn't a restoration anymore but I am going for broke and am really trying to create a whole new reproduction wherever possible.
Big question to the group is if you know where I can order brand new parts for T2 I am open to replacing everything. All the plastics, mechs, flippers, wiring harness etc etc.
Some items like flippers seems obvious to buy brand new Williams flippers but other items like the cannon, or the big main wiring harness. Is there a go to place where I can order a significant amount of T2 playfield and cabinet items brand new?
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:You also could’ve gotten the whole plastic set from Buthamburg with the play field. Maybe you still can?
I did and he sent it with the new play field.
Oh awesome thanks.
Got a line on anything else - like complete new wiring harnesses or complete new flipper kits. The gun launcher etc etc?
Quoted from mmr61184:Honestly I would not try to replace the harnesses that’s going to be a huge pain and costly. Soak them in a mop sink in purple power and water and get a brush and scrub them they will come out very clean. Some people put them in the dishwasher but I never subscribed to that. Honestly invest in a bigger ultrasonic cleaner you can save lots of the original parts it does wonders and the cost of replacing everything would be even higher than the initial cost. If you were going to replace stuff I would go with all the plastics, solenoids, and solenoid assemblies. A lot of the stuff can be cleaned including the gun assembly
Roger that - just gonna get started and make decisions on replacements as I go. Can't wait to get this game properly added to my games. This was the first Pinball machine that ever drew my eyes away from the arcades machines.
Quoted from PBlank:Those playfields look nice! Are they all ready to go? You don’t have to do anything additional to them before you populate them or let them sit for a period of time?
Hmm yah good question I hadn't really thought of needing to let it sit for a while, but you could be right. Will email Peter if he doesn't jump on this thread.
Looking to order a Color DMD for my T2 recreation project. LED or LCD? I thought maybe LED would look a little more retro but color? but in watching the videos on the site they seem kinda hard to tell apart.
Any advice on which one to get?
Okay so my big restoration / recreation project started about a year ago, big pause waiting on the new playfield now I am about to get going again.
Going to be ordering all new coils and honestly as much as I possibly can for the playfield. If it can be bought new I am going to buy it. Anyhow I am going to search the saved topic section but if you know of any comprehensive restoration websites or forum threads you can point me to, please do.
I lost my phone and my photos from a year ago when I stripped the playfield so depending on internet data.
Thanks in advance.
Ordered an ultrasonic cleaner and some rebuild kits so gonna be trying to reuse a lore more than I initial planned. You were all right doesnt make sense to replace like a flipper bracket etc. Will reuse most coils. The flipper coils were mismatched and one uncovered etc so I did get new coils for the flippers.
I think I was pretty good about keeping all the nuts and bolts as I stripped but I am worried I will be missing a few of each when the time comes and of course I need some t-nuts. If anyone knows exactly what nuts and bolts and tnuts I will need I will just go ahead and order a couple dozen of each so I have them when the time comes.
Quoted from dinot:- Screws, nuts, etc...
In the middle of doing this myself - ordered a bunch of new parts but not nuts and bolts or Tnuts - Id like to order a pile of each right now so I will have what I need when the time comes if my old ones run out. Can you get me maybe the parts list you ordered so I can order?
So far ordered from Marcos but will order from anywhere.
I have a new color DMD LCD waiting to go into this T2 as part of the restoration - first time using one so no feedback yet. I debated between the LED and LCD but ended up going this way. Sounds like running it in Dot or Dotsxl or something like that is the ticket.
Quoted from scampcamp:I think you're right going with the LCD. Not a bunch more $ & then you can go for the Dot if you feel like it. Do you have the L8.4 ROM?
No this T2 although functional when I bought it was in pretty bad state. I have all new repro cabinet and now playfields so yah it’s more of a complete reproduction than a restoration so when the time comes I will need to update the rom sounds like
Apologies in advance - my first ever restoration job every other machine is NIB and I am only in the pinball hobby for maybe 15 months.
So...doing this T2 restoration and I expect its going to take me 6 months but I am determined. First step was to rebuild flippers. I searched and read many forum posts and many restoration pages and I kind of feel I know whats going on but there is definitely some weird stuff going on with the old game I bought.
Okay see the image of my fully assembled flipper from the game I stripped like a year ago while I waited on the new playfield which I just got. The terminals are at the back. The spring is on the shaft there and on the leaf switch mount there is a transistor like thing that was not in use at all.
thumbnail_image0 (1) (resized).jpg
I ordered the rebuild kit WFLKIT which I am fairly certain is the correct one. NON fliptronic 87-91 rebuild kit.
Next you see the attempt to rebuild with the kit.
thumbnail_image7 (resized).jpg
So the questions become:
1. The yellow thing in the rebuild kit what is that called and why didn't my old flippers use them. One didn't have anything and the other had that old style looking one that wasn't hooked up to anything wires maybe went straight to the leaf switch?
2. My old flipper didnt seem to have that extra arm and spring at all but the rebuild kit has it. If it has that arm it would still be in that assembly I think.
thumbnail_image6 (resized).jpg
3. lastly and simply the screws that held on the last leaf switch are too small and dont grab hold on this new one - rebuild kit didnt come with the screws though making me assume I was to use the old ones. I guess I just go to the hardware store and get one size bigger? am I missing something?
thumbnail_image5 (resized).jpg
In summary my assumptions are get bigger screws to attach leaf switch, dont use the extra arm and spring and get educated on how to use that yellow thing assuming it goes to that before the leaf switch as some kind of resistor?
Found an image that answers I think most of my questions
pinside.37a7dc322422ccd28ce66d281ede80188f88d1f7.pdf
I see how the yellow thing works and I see that my coil and sleeve are actually installed wrong which means it was installed wrong when I got the machine. Seems to also confirm I dont need that extra arm and spring which I don't really understand but so be it.
Just curious why the screws to hold the new leaf switch from the rebuild kit ( or EOS Switch maybe its called ) are too small but I guess that should be easy to fix could even get tiny bolts and nuts to hold it there.
Quoted from dinot:One thing to note when putting everything back together is you want the black nub on the flipper pawl to open the end of stroke switch as close to the end of the movement as possible. These older flipper designs have the power fro the coil go through that switch. So if it opens the switch too early your flippers will be super weak. If the fail to open the switch you will blow a fuse (not a huge deal) if you hold the flipper up to cradle a ball.
How come these flippers I have do not use that extra bracket and spring the kit came with in the picture here? Should I just throw it on and use it anyhow?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Read vids guide to rebuilding flippers and it might become clear as to whats going on.
Upgrading to the newer style return springs that came in your kit are MUCH better than the original setup.
Your questions are answered here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers
Thanks will watch now.
Quoted from pinballinreno:The yellow non-polarised capacitor that you labeled "not used" is clearly shown on the schematic that you provided above.
The capacitor is used to reduce pitting of the contacts on the EOS switch.
Yes I did get that figured out and I have that zip tied on now.
At this point I did "complete" the rebuild on both flippers minus the return spring thing. My bracket where the capacitor is strapped on doesnt have the hole for the return spring but maybe one could be added easily or get a different bracket. Will watch that video and find out.
Quoted from dinot:My suggestions when reinstalling the flipper bats. (Apologies if you already know this)
1) To align flippers...the way I like to do it is as follows. Put flipper rubber on bats. Install flipper bats into bushing from top of playfield. Insert a toothpick between the flipper rubber and the bottom side of the bat (side facing player). Align that toothpick with the alignment holes and insert toothpick into that hole. This will hold the flipper bat in place so that you can tighten it.
2) Use a flipper gap tool. If you don't have one, get something that is a little thinner than a credit card. You'll want a gap between the flipper bushing and the pawl. (Also replace the flipper bushing if you haven't)
3) When you go to tighten the pawl, what I like to do is feel the flat part on the opposite side of that nut (on the other side of the pawl). You'll need to really tighten the pawl. I tighten until I feel that flat part start to dimple. If you don't tighten enough the bat will start to "travel".
This is awesome thank you I will be installing them to the playfield shortly this will help.
I do have one question though I quickly tested my new bats on these flippers and I found I could not get the shaft in was very tight. Perhaps its juts a matter or loosening it more and doing a slight pry with a screw driver? I was just surprise to see how tight it was. Normal I assume. I do have brand new bats with posts and rubbers. I can test the old bats on the old flipper parts to see how it feels.
Quoted from dinot:Do you mean getting the bats into the flipper pawl (that metal part that clamps onto the shaft of the bat)?
If so, that is because the pawls bend slightly as you tighten them. Even if you loosen it, the pawl might remain "tightened". If they are too bent, I'd buy new pawls. Honestly, I typically replace the pawls if I had to remove the bat more than once. (rare occurrence) If they are tight you'll need to twist the bats back and forth as you push them into the pawl.
But in your case, since they look new, they probably just need to be loosened a bit more. (Sorry I typed up my description and forgot to look at your pic )
Yes the Pawl and yes they are brand new. I will just pry slightly to get them in.
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North Vancouver, BC
Cleveland, OH