https://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=19&zenid=qp0lq3053i7f6m29hfol4nvjo7

Thanks.

Any thoughts on the cabinet in the pictures. I don't know for sure there isn't any kind of swelling or wet rot but that one corner looks pretty loose and I am worried an attempt to restore it would require extra reinforcing in some way.

The back box I think I could restore to great condition.

Missing the right ramp entrance plastic & brackets
Looks like it's missing the blue pad on the left return wireform

"no foam seal on the sides"?? do you mean the plastic siderail channels are missing? https://www.pinballlife.com/playfield-glass-side-rail-plastic-channel.html
"coin door is apparently not original" - show us a pic of the coin door

Hmm thankyou looking now.

Yes I will take a closer look when I am at the cabinet next as I have it over at a rental house were working on. I will get a picture of that coin door and yes the side rail plastics is what must be missing I will look next time but it does seem its just under the metal only atm the way it slides in and out and even starts moving when you take off the lock bar.

Only picture I have atm of the coin door

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There's absolutely no doubt that your game was in water for a bit. Everything i'm seeing is text-book flood damage. I am curious if all the bits under the playfield are rusted and corroded also.

I didn't think flood so much but definitely a very humid environment, but maybe you're right.

I've never lived in a humid place while owning pins but wouldn't that have to be A LOT of humidity? Did you rescue this from the jungles of Borneo Kabball ? If yes please tell me you did it with a fedora and a whip.

As far as your restoration my fear for you is that you'll have a hard time offloading this pin moving forward if you don't fix the cab and it doesn't appear to be a simple fix. The restoration cabs listed above look like a nice option though, I wasn't aware those existed before.

Anyway, good luck, keep us in the loop on what you decide. I'm definitely following because I feel like I've reached a point in pinball prices where I might consider a cheap water damaged pin to restore at some point.

Dang dude now I am scared to look but I shall and then post pictures.

Yah I feel like T2 probably is a very long term if not indefinite keeper for me BUT that doesn't negate your point. This may very well just need a new cabinet, I meant to contact the Vpin place today but the day got away from me with work. I will contact them soon.

Paul is a great dude but he runs a small crew. Expect a long lead time. I'd recommend to call him.

Doh I am a spontaneous dude I just pulled the trigger - not cheap went with the full trim cabinet so full cabinet with back box, side rails and lock bar with the coin door. added glass and the decals for the back of the cabinet etc etc. total of 1700 for the cabinet and 600 freight shipping. Yah gonna be 4-6 weeks it said estimated.

Thats okay gives me time to look for a few missing plastics on the playfield and in general think about if I want to dive deeper on the playfield or not

Okay so as to the possible water damage and possible rust on the bottom of the playfield. I got a better look today and although the bottom of the cab is rather grungy looking. I feel like the bottom of the playfield is rather clean looking. Any thoughts?

I also put in a few playfield shots including the right inlane which I feel is the worst spot. But you can see a fair bit of that protective Mylar? Stickers around.

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Looks fine to me - drop target and flipper mechs need some work, but that's pretty straight forward

Please what do you see mate I lack the experience.

Looks like you got a good base to work with and everything just needs going through. Second pic - yea the flippers could use a rebuild. Check Vid’s rebuild guide on that. New coil sleeves and newer style return springs at least. Check the bushings too- they’re cheap to replace. Third pic there’s a random cut wire at the bottom of the pic. And the ground braid looks broken by the speaker - should go to the ground braid at the right? Is that grey wire running over the transformer some type of hack? 7th pick looks like a jacked up spring on the drop target mech. 8th pic also looks like a cut wire - middle right of the screen - by a zip tie.

On mine I had to go through many of those under playfield multi light boards too. Reflow the solder on the connectors (many had broken solder joints) and add/reflow the solder around the socket contacts. Else my lights were really flakey.

You really need to go through it all. On second look it looks like someone has done a lot of “hacks” on this machine. Look at everything that has tape on it, barrel crimped wires, cut wires, etc. Check the schematics and manual on this really good. Post any questions here - I’m happy to compare my machine to yours any time if you like.

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Thanks guys - will start by looking at the flippers as you guys have suggested and go from there.

I just concern about the surface of the playfield. If I'm looking at it correctly, there is a crack that goes through the wood next to the eye of the skull. Also, this seems to be the case in several places. If the wood is swollen, it needs to be sanded down or at least sanded. Also, the inserts are usually hollowed out around the edges of the T2. Taping and brushing the contours would be necessary here. I had to do that on my T2 as well and it was really a lot of work. The typical damage to the holes and places where the balls thunder onto the surface.... this all had to be refurbished, sanded and repainted. Cliffy's are also a must to protect that permanently afterwards.

Yah there are some very slight cracks.

In your opinion is this an obvious candidate for a full sanding and clear coating restoration OR is this more of a situation where one may as well get the new playfield if they are going to that work

If labor time and craftsmanship are not an issue, you can make it beautiful again, but it will take a while.
If not, then better to install a new playfield, but I don't know when BUT is producing them again or is there somewhere one in stock.

Posted below is a link to Vid's Guide to rebuilding flippers - it helped me a lot. I got all the parts from Marco but it looks like they are out of stock on the williams rebuild kit at the moment. Per Vid's guide I didn't use the barrel springs with this kit but instead used the ones I posted below. i didn't flip the coils around but may if I have issues with diodes later. Flippers are awesome after this kit, new bushings, and new coil sleeves.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/WFLKIT
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-364
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7568
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I will revise my assessment from the other day, perhaps this game wasn't in a flood, i'm convinced that it was left outside in the weather for a time. Perhaps on a patio, or maybe just out in the yard. Its obviously been rained on many times, or perhaps buried under snow. Its been in direct sunlight for quite some time, based on the planking and badly faded artwork on the playfield. I see more hacks than I can name, and why the hell would someone move the transformer for no obvious reason??
Dude, I hope you really didn't pay much for this turd... Assuming of course that you find the condition totally unacceptable and intend to return it to glory.

If it were me, I would salvage everything that is glass, plastic, and not severely rusted metal, and replace absolutely everything that is made of wood, including the playfield. Unfortunately, restoring this thing will probably cost you (parts and labor) at least double what it will ever be worth.

Hi,

I`m looking for a playfield and plastics scan for the T2.

Links to restorations logs would be awesome, too

Thanks

Search at flippermarkt.de for Averells Terminator 2

Anyone have a NOS playfield?

Not NOS but it's another option

https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-36-50013

The folks at buthamburg are going to be doing a run soon, that may be the supplier to planetarypinball (not entirely sure but think so). I've been in contact with Peter there. They're moving into a new facility and are busy doing the Alien and Queen playfields. He estimated late January or February for t2 run but don't hold him to that. In the past they ship to the US, not cheap but cheaper than the link listed above.

https://www.buthamburg.de/en/playfields

I agree on considering a full redo by mining the parts once everything for a rebuild is available. I also agree it has to be a labor of love, you'll never get back what you're going to put in it.

Nevertheless it might be a great pin to learn about full teardowns and mechs because nothing is terribly complicated about the pin yet it has many parts that are common for future pin repair.

I'm considering the playfield swap listed above because that's all my t2 needs really. It will be my first underside teardown but looking at it seems reasonable. There's another link a couple pages back to someone who did a full swap with great documentation. As others will tell you take a million pictures from different angles but also zoomed out and zoomed in. Try to categorize and separate sections/layers as you take them off. You'll need pics from others as well to help you solve all the hacks in your pin. I also find it useful to go find a relatively pristine pin to play so I can figure out what actually isn't working in my pins.

We might be doing a swap at the same time so we can share info as needed.

Had my eye on that. Planetary Pinball's is in stock but it is much higher than Buthamburg. PP cheapest shipping option is $72. So unless Buthamburg has an insanely high shipping amount it is a better deal. Though, I have no idea what it would cost to ship a PF from Germany to the US.

Also, the one reviewer mentioned 2 things. I've done a couple of PF swaps, so not too worried.
1) "No T-Nuts installed." - No big deal. Insert T-nut, 2 light taps from the hammer. T-Nut doesn't need to sit flush with the PF. When you tighten the screw it will pull it up.
2) "You need to make the countersunk for the Pop Bumper mounting screws" - I have no idea what this means. Does anyone have a thought?

When I looked I think it was about the same or slightly higher ($20?)

Unfortunately, Buthamburg doesn't show any PF's in stock so I can mock check out to get a shipping quote. I tried to order their PF plastics and they wanted a LOT to ship those. So I was a bit nervous. Wondering if they'll be able to "toss the plastics" into the PF box if I go that route?

Check Soulrider911 's rebuild. He's the guy that does the suuuuupppeeer nice rebuilds (like crazy nice). He used a prior run from Buthamburg and some of his pics may have info on that.

Oh and ya, in my post I mentioned that Buthamburg isn't re-running til January/February so we're both gonna have to wait, but from what I've seen earlier in this forum the wait is worth it.

Thanks to the multiple comments above about going full rebuild with my cab, I basically had come to the same conclusion before getting on here and catching up with this thread.

I was both inspecting the pin pretty thoroughly today. Although yes the underside was not rusty which was great to see there are so many shabby looking connections. But on the playfield itself it seems to be extremely “ridge” and “groove” riddled. And not because of cracks or swelling in the wood I don’t think but the amount of stickers and decals seems excessive almost like the clear protective mylar decals are super thick and have a definitive thick ridge along them. Then the insert decals feel like someone has stacked one on top of the other maybe several times over the years and they have major ridges along them. I have definitely seen slow moving balls do some funky shifts in movement.

Surprisingly the game seems to function 100% gameplay wise.

Yah even though I didn’t pay much this will be a fun labor of love and definitely never be worth what I put into it. Heck this will probably be a 10k T2 when I’m done.

The full repro cab was 2300 with shipping to Canada. But that gives me a lot it’s full trim so legs, side rails, locking bar, glass, coin door etc etc.

I will need to buy a full new playfield and I am certain I will be getting new plastics and rubbers along with I’m sure a significant amount of mechanicals for the underside.

I will go color DMD probably, maybe new speaks and so on.

Fuck it, let’s go!

So on that playfield there is no option until January or February?

Mean while I can strip the playfield and that leads me to ask about buying one of those rotisserie things for the playfield. Any suggestions?

Update: confirmed that the playfields on the Planetary Pinball are supplied by perfectplayfields.com which if you go there it is confirmed to be Buthamberg. Therefore I think I am just going to order one.

You say the planetary pinball one is much higher but I think that difference is just one listed in USD and one in Euro? Anyhow looks like Buth is the supplier for PP so no sense in waiting on Buth assuming PO isn’t lying about them being in stock

Converted to USD, Buthamburg is listed at $815. PP is $1078. That is quite a difference. PP is $1150 delivered. The million dollar question is what Buth charges to ship. Even at $200 shipping (I have no idea, just making this up), the Buth is the better deal at $1015.

I guess the Euro to USD conversion has changed a lot since I last looked. If in stop a couple hundred bucks may be worth what could turn into 60+ days waiting on Buth

The flipper rebuild kit will get the flipper mechs sorted.

On the drop target, there are 2 springs (one to pull the target down and one of the small coil to reset it's actuator arm) both of these need replacing. Also there's a missing screw hold the brass actuator arm on the small coil.

Unless you're doing a full PF swap, I'd suggest that you work your way through stripping and cleaning each mech, replacing any coil sleeves and damaged parts. Use the manual and parts list (both are downloadable from IPDB) to help out part numbers etc - also googling part and assembly numbers will give you lots of images for you to compare yours with.

Wiring hacks can be a little tricker as to what has been done and why; and whether the inclusion of mods and associated power taps are suitable.

I appreciate the response but I have indeed decided on a complete playfield swap ( small chance I sand and clear coat the existing one but most likely new playfield ) but all this advice will obviously still apply. As I put each Mech onto the new playfield I will need to make sure everything is perfect and ancient bits replaced with new etc. Excited to dive in.

Rotisseries definitely make life easier - check out the PinDoc version https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gauging-interest-in-all-metal-pf-rotisseries-for-18000-shipped

You can also make your own - if you goggle "DIY Pinball Rotisserie" you'll see lots of ideas

Yes, DIY rotisserie

I honestly think if you pump the brakes a bit and play the pin as is for a bit you might be able to save a few bucks figuring out which mechs need replacing vs repairing. By the time you get that done the new buthamburgs will be here.

Always sage advice to take a moment. In fact I just got done with a session and was enjoying myself. Then the drop targets that the cannon shoots into stopped registering :/ - so yes I could do a small repair now to build experience or just start stripping!

Oh and yes I watched a video about a DIY rotisserie using the miter saw stand gonna go that route should be no more than 150

I'm doing a semi-scratch build starting with an IJ that was under water. By any chance have you pulled any screws out from the bottom of the playfield? Do they look like this?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-and-indian-jones-semi-scratch-builds/page/2

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.

No not yet but based on your images and what my eyes have shown me so far I do not believe I have rust in the same way that you do. I am not so sure my cabinet was ever in serious water or even outside as one pinsider suspected. But being in Vancouver BC we live in 100% humidity if this was left in some outside shed with no climate control it would get serious moisture. But again even though the wood looks like this i do not see any rust to speak of on the playfield underside at all.

I do not suspect the playfield is warped either but I will get it stripped then maybe take one last decision on whether I sand and clear coat or just get the new full PF.

This is how a mate cleaned up a T2 after a flood - always makes me laugh (and yes he's taking the piss)

He replaced the cabinet but everything else including the PF was salvageable

OEM has an 11ohm resistor. It was never documented.

The pop bumper studs have a flat head, like a standard wood nail. it is installed from the top and must be countersunk to be flush with the PF surface.
You use a Forstner drill bit to drill down about 2mm. If the primary hole for the stud is already drilled, you will need a jig to stabilize the drill or you'll likely dance the drill bit and do some "shit your pants" damage.