Just the slam switch in the coin door. The slam switches do not seem to effect the Ni-Wumpf board. I am going to check them again though. The old board played with the ball switch disconnected. Possible that that switch might be causing a problem on the newer board??? Wouldn't that be some S$$T! Here is a photo of the Tilt relay. it looks newer and like it had been replaced. I do not think there are coils associated with it.

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I checked the slam switches. The one on the ball cage might possibly have of been opening but its not now. I do not think that was causing it. I played 6 games until it went to Tilt. PF goes dark and Tilt light is on. With the old CPU the game just quit not like a tilt. It did not do that so far playing which is why I got the new board to test so that is a great thing as we thought the CPU was causing it. Looks like it was at least so far. Wow those switch screws are close to the plate on both the Game Over and Tilt relays but not touching. There are 2 red/purple wires to the leads on both of the relays. There are numerous switches on both relays so I am not about to play with them.

Plan is to drive to Marco to pick up the driver and coils tomorrow. I will give you an update. I am hoping for a Pinball Christmas Miracle to have this working 100% by then. Without your help I would not have had a chance! Thanks Mike!

Man, what a good pick up! The crazy thing is that both coils are like that! Some lugs are touching, others are so close. I looked at the other smaller drop target coil and the lugs are a good 1/4 inch above the casing. How can that not short? Those coils and drop targets worked perfectly until I put the new targets in and put the box back on. That would certainly explain the spark and blown fuse when I touched those wires.

I am taking a drive to Marco tomorrow to pick up the coils and driver. I hope you can just go there and pick up things. I am going bring that coil and assembly with me and ask them about it. I hope the replacement coil has some room between the lug and case. Thanks for bringing that to my attention and I will follow up here to what I find out.

Hello all, Just an update. We are having monsoonal rains in SC and after speaking with them I decided not to drive to Marco. Called them and they were extremely helpful with coil diagnostics and helped me a lot in general. We determined that the R coil is bad and I was fortunate that he was able to find one to send me as they were out of stock. I was able to move both coils away from the casing to prevent sorting. That was definitely happening and probably caused this whole problem. Thanks so much Quench for picking that up!! Here is a pic of the adjusted coil.

Supposedly when we read across the lugs without the coil soldered it is supposed to read 9+. With the coil connected it is reading 5.6. The Left coil is fine.
The R coil was reading 0.5 so we determined the coil must be shorted so a new one is on the way along with a driver board.

This is what is perplexing! I removed and replaced the old diode on the bad coil think why not a new one coming. Now it is reading the same as the good one?? So I am thinking is is possible the diode was bad and I fixed the coil?

Back it goes on and POOF blown fuse. Curses.

Granted the coil might be bad but I was able to get it reading correctly with a new diode. My question is:

Could the Right coil be wired incorrectly?? So far everyone has said its correct but would you all take another good look here? Wouldn't that be something if it was wired wrong all the time and that is why it is shorting. Here is a close up of the R coil. The two 18G Orange/Brown wires are going to the left lug and the smaller 20G Brown/Gray are going to the R lug. Is that correct?

Here is also a pic of the L coil that seems to be fine. One Orange/Brown to the left lug and two smaller brown/gray to the right lug. This look ok?? I wish I could find a photo of a Genie showing these coils. You all have been incredible. Thanks for continuing to help me out and hope to get some feedback on this.

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Hi Mike, Here are the pics of the 2 coils before anything was any of them was unsoldered. Doesn't it show the 2 thicker wires on the opposite side of the Band? On both coils the band is on the right and the thicker wires to the left. On the L coil the thicker wire is on the left side of the coil and band on the right? On the R coil both thicker wires are again on the left lug and the diode band on the right? The wires do not even seem long enough to go the other way. Whatcha think? Thanks

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It is the R coil that is bad which is the second picture. I would have bought 2 but was lucky to get one as they were out of stock but I called and they found one to send which was fantastic of them to do. Lucky. I never had a problem with the first pic or L coil. I really hope this plus the new driver takes care of it. I won't get anything delivered until the day after Christmas but not bad. Fed Ex 2 day. I will certainly let you know who it works out. Thanks for all!

The Christmas Miracle has happened!!! At least so far. I called Fed Ex and they made sure it got on the truck for today! So I just have to pray that it is the coil and not some other quirky problem that's causing the short. I now have a new CPU and Driver as of today so as long as the coils is good so should the Genie be. I will know later while I am drinking my spiked eggnog! This has been quite the journey and story. What an ending to have it working on Christmas Eve!

I cannot believe it! I installed the new board and coil but the upper drop target coils will not energize!! New board new coil. The fuse is not blowing now so the coil is not shorted. Is there another fuse or something else to check. Help guys. I was so lucky to get the coil before Christmas and it still wont work.

I run a coil test and everything energizes except those 2 coils. Man this has been grueling.

I have tested all the lower fuses, the 2 Main 2a fuses and the one 2a under the playing field. All good. The one under the playing field was blowing with the old coil but not now. Why aren't these coils getting power??? I run the test watching them all pop. These nothing!

There are 7 switches, one for each drop target. It is not until all the targets are down that the coils energizes. Those switches came off when I replaced the drop targets. That would make sense that if one of those switches are not showing closed then the coil will not energize. correct?? I am checking those. I bet one of the wires is not soldered and the switch is OPEN. That has it be it!!!

Thanks Mike going to check those as well but the switches were moved all around when taking the box on and off a couple times. Mike you are awesome!! I cannot thank you enough.

The only thing with that is the coil will not fire during the test. I would not think those switches would keep the coil test from working?? Agree??

Mike I am afraid you have to draw me a map on that one. I don't know what those are.

Thanks Mike! Looks like I have some troubleshooting to do. I would be nowhere without your help.

Thanks Frunch and certainly Mike who had helped me so much. I will go through all these things in hopes of figuring it out. Merry Christmas to everyone!!

Merry Christmas Mike and to all. I am still hoping for a Christmas miracle before the company comes. So if there is anyone who can help this morning that would be fantastic.

I powered up the game, pressed a game to start. I do not get any readings on any of the coils even the lower drop target ones that do work so I must not be reading this right.

So its power on, game selected, red VM lead to the 22g wires on the left lug?? I assume they are the power wires. Do I touch the negative VM lead to the other side of the coil or to some ground on the table? I have not been able to get a reading anywhere.

The countdown is on and am reading and trying everything. Thanks for reaching out! I cannot tell you how much that means to me.

Just some more info. The game plays perfectly except for those coils and drop targets.