(Topic ID: 257857)

Genie System 1 Will Not Boot.


By Genieye

60 days ago



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  • 188 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 39 days ago by pinmike
  • Topic is favorited by 4 Pinsiders

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#1 60 days ago

I replaced the Genie upper drop targets. I took the box all apart, put it back together and now the right coil blows the 2a slow blow fuse. I was trying with some help from everyone here to make sure the wiring is correct then all of a sudden the game will not boot.

The only light on the PF is the extra ball light the rest is dark. The backglass is lit and Tilt, Game Over, and Shoot Again is flashing??? I checked all the fuses and they are fine. This happened when I was messing with the drop target coil. What happened??? I am going out of my mind with this thing as I was happy having replaced all the targets then all this happens.

I would pay someone to hep me figure this out. Besides here is there anyone out there I could turn to? I need this game back up. Thanks

#2 60 days ago

I lifted the PF straight up to work on the upper drop targets. The TILT light is all that is lit. Could having the board up that high have something to do with it? Tilt relay??

#3 59 days ago

Did you lift up that playfield while the game was powered on?

When you power on the game what is it exactly doing?
I’m just trying to get a clear idea of what problems your having since I’m not there and the game is not in front of me.
I’m really trying to help..

#4 59 days ago
Quoted from pinmike:

Did you lift up that playfield while the game was powered on?
When you power on the game what is it exactly doing?
I’m just trying to get a clear idea of what problems your having since I’m not there and the game is not in front of me.
I’m really trying to help..

Thanks Mike for responding!! Means a lot as I am trying desperately to get this playing by Christmas!! Crunch time! This whole thing started when I replaced all the upper drop targets and then the coils would not energize to reset the targets. I did a Ni-Wumpf coil test and they would not fire.

I raised the PF all the way to the backglass and bungied to it so I could get to the coils and target box easier. I powered on the PF when it was all the way up. Would that cause a problem?? Tilt maybe and kill it like whats happening?? I was doing troubleshooting on the coils etc. then POOF the PF goes dark. The back glass is illuminated and the Tilt light is on. Its strange but at that time the only PF light that's lit is the Extra Ball light down by the flippers. The rest is dead. When that is on constant the Shoot Again will flash on the BG as well. At other times plugging the game in the only light is on is Tilt without the Extra Ball.

So I went from feeling good having successfully replaced all the drop targets, putting the box back together, to find no coils energizing. Then I raise the PF to the BG, power it on to troubleshoot the coils then it goes dead to Tilt.

Before the Tilt failure, the right coil was blowing the 2a slo-lo fuse. That was my biggest issue before everything else. Now I can't troubleshoot the bad coil etc. until I get the PF back.

Attached are a couple photos of the drop target box, the L coil and R respectively. I am trying to figure out why its blowing a fuse, wired wrong? The drop targets worked great and the coil tested before I installed the targets. What the heck happened? Everything went back together fine though a tough job with springs etc.

So I 2 issues and have to take care of the first to get back to figuring out the second and I have only a couple days. I sure hope you can help me get it right.

Thanks, Joe

IMG_7094 (resized).JPGIMG_7095 (resized).JPGIMG_7096 (resized).JPG
#5 59 days ago
Quoted from Genieye:

when it was all the way up. Would that cause a problem??

Yes it could have that's why its always better to work on a machine while its powered off.You may have caused a short.
im doing more reading in your post

#6 59 days ago
Quoted from Genieye:

Tilt maybe and kill it like whats happening??

Did you check the tilt switch to see that they are not gapped together?and plum bob tilt in the lower part of the cabinet also did you check the main fuse to see if it has blown?
From looking at the pics everything looks to quite normal and nothing out of place,Ok the 2 coils for the drop targets are not firing.Most likely the fuse to those coils has blown,Check the transistors that run/control those coils.Test them with a meter with the power off,Do you know how to test transistors with a meter?

#7 59 days ago
Quoted from pinmike:

Did you check the tilt switch to see that they are not gapped together?and plum bob tilt in the lower part of the cabinet also did you check the main fuse to see if it has blown?
From looking at the pics everything looks to quite normal and nothing out of place,Ok the 2 coils for the drop targets are not firing.Most likely the fuse to those coils has blown,Check the transistors that run/control those coils.Test them with a meter with the power off,Do you know how to test transistors with a meter?

I checked all the fuses and they are ok. I cannot do anything until I figure out why the game is dead and the Tilt light is on. The Tilt and Game over relays have multiple contacts. Maybe when I raised the PF all the way up something happened there. Most times it is something simple. No I do not know how to check the transistors. Can you help me? I have a good VM. I would be happy just to have the game boot up so I can then deal with the drop target coils.

I will pay $$ to someones PP account if they take the time to help me get this fixed. I know there are members who have the answer like yourself but I need someone to actually take the time to go through what I wrote. I tried to be as detailed as possible. I am desperate to get this fixed. Thanks

#8 59 days ago

when testing fuses are you pulling them out and checking with meter?
Open then backbox and reseat all the connectors on the boards,its possible when you raised the playfield it may have pulled the wiring a bit to hard and connector came loose

#9 59 days ago

To test transistor power off the game set meter to continuity,Place black probe onto ground(grey metal strap).With red probe touch the tab of transistor,If you hear a beep from meter that means transistor is bad/shorted

#10 59 days ago

Common Electronic Issues.
Battery corrosion (from the on-the-MPU-board battery) is the major cause of repair on this series of games. This also compromises the card edge style connectors going to the MPU board, meaning these often need to be re-pinned. Ground issues are also another nagging problem with this system, causing game lock ups and burnt coils. Additionally, since the game uses custom “spider” chips on the MPU board, there are a large number of unavailable parts for this board. companies like NiWhumpf have developed a replacement MPU board.I know you have stated that you have this new board in your game

#11 59 days ago

The Ni-Wumpf CPU takes the slam switches out of the equation. The coin door and ball cage ones are supposed to be closed and I soldered the coin door one shut. The game was playing fine with the switches the way they were. There is on under the PF that has to be wide open right? Are there any other switches besides the relay?

I have taken each fuse out and read continuity with a volt meter. Which fuse controls the PF? The Playboard makes sense. I have replaced that and read it. I also have checked the 2a slo-blo under the PF and the 2 others Primary fuses. Is there another I might be missing?

I took the Game Over and Tilt switch relay down to inspect them. I was wondering if it could be something there but how do you know how all those switches are supposed to be, closed, opened?

I am going to try the connectors, great suggestion Mike. I really appreciate your help!

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#12 59 days ago
Quoted from Genieye:

There is on under the PF that has to be wide open right? Are there any other switches besides the relay?

The switches under PF are suppossed to be open that's correct,no other switches besides the relay

#13 59 days ago
Quoted from Genieye:

Which fuse controls the PF?

it should be located in the backbox on the board,check the power supply board

#14 59 days ago

Something to keep in mind Gottlieb didn’t mount switch diodes directly to the switches. Instead they mounted the 1n270 diodes under the playfield on a diode board. Though switch columns (returns) don’t used diodes (the rows do)..This is if no wires came loose off one of the switches and if a wire came loose then the other switches going upstream in that column will not work.(This is just a note for later on if you run into a switch problem.

#15 59 days ago

Quick question are the ground mods done on your game?

#16 59 days ago

I have a Ni-Wumpf CPU and Rottendog Driver and PS. The game was playing fine until I replaced the drop target. I don't think there is any fuses on the back board with those replacement boards.

I think I am on to something!!! This all started when I was troubleshooting the drop target coils not working after replacing the targets and board. The R drop target coil was shorting out and blowing the 2a slo-blo fuse under the PF. It is when the 2 Orange/Brown wires are touching the left coil lug. The PF went dark after the coil shorted. Everyone has said this is correct wiring. Is it?? Here is a photo of the coil and the 2 orange/brown wires. If the wiring is right something is causing the short and it might have killed the PF.

Even with the PF dead the coils still shorts! All I did was replace the drop targets. There is a switch for each target on top and I have checked these numerous times to make sure there was no short etc. Here is a photo of the switches. There is a braided type wire running from switch to switch. That wires seems insulated. Those are the only electrical components associated with this besides the coils. So what is causing the short when those wires touch the coil??

IMG_7101 (resized).JPGIMG_7102 (resized).JPG
#17 59 days ago

Yes all the grounds mods were done with the new boards. I think the short caused the board crash. No where is it???

#18 59 days ago

Just adding notes to this thread ok

Problem: Game goes to "GAME OVER" during play for no apparent reason.
Answer: Check the two normally closed SLAM switches for adequate pressure. One of the slam switches is mounted inside the coin door, the other is at the ball roll assembly inside the cabinet. Improperly adjusted switches will respond to game vibration levels and show this problem. Also check the suppression diodes across the pop bumpers, flippers and slingshot kicker c

#19 59 days ago
Quoted from Genieye:

Yes all the grounds mods were done with the new boards. I think the short caused the board crash. No where is it???

ok i just read something about the U2 GAL chip on the board you have installed. Now that’s a custom chip, made special for the Ni-Wumpf CPU board. This isn’t something you can buy, unless it’s directly from Ni-Wumpf.
somehow the new Ni-Wumpf CPU board could have a bad chip or that short could have affected that chip

#20 59 days ago

I did replace a pop bumper coil at the same time. Could another coil be causing it?? I am going to unsoloder it.

#21 59 days ago
Quoted from Genieye:

I did replace a pop bumper coil at the same time. Could another coil be causing it?? I am going to unsoloder it.

I really dont think so unless the wires were soldered in the wrong order on the coil tabs

#22 59 days ago
Quoted from Genieye:

The coin door and ball cage ones are supposed to be closed and I soldered the coin door one shut

Tell you what try unsoldering the coin door tilt switch lets see what happens,you stated you soldered it shut.give a shot

#23 59 days ago

Great info in the vid..It's about system 1 drop target coils,slam tilts,ect.

#24 59 days ago

Step One: Power off, Check the Lower Board Fuses & Bridges.
With the game off remove each of the fuses one at a time and test with a Multimeter (DMM) set to continuity. If a fuse is blown, just don't replace it (just yet). Fuses often blow for a reason. Note what the fuse does (there should be labels for each of the fuses).
If for example the fuse for the CPU driven 6 volt lamp power is blown, test its accompanying bridge rectifier (because if the bridge is shorted, its accompanying fuse will blow). There's only two bridge rectifiers in a system1 game (25 volts coil power, 6 volts cpu driven lamp power.)
If the 69 volt fuse for the score displays is blown, this often means one of the power supply's four 1N4004 diodes used for rectifying this voltage is shorted. If a 6.3 volt general illumination lighting fuse is blown, that can often mean a shorted light socket on the playfield.
Now that the lower fuse panel is all checked out, REMOVE the 25 volt solenoid fuse before proceeding! Set it aside for later.

Step Two: Power off, Check Playfield Coil Resistance.
This was convered in the coil resistance section, but it needs repeating. If a driver board transistor shorted or there is a ground issue, a coil can lock-on and burn. If this is the case, either cut the non-banded diode lead going to the coil, or replace the coil. I do this before initial power-up. Because a burned (shorted) low-resistance coil can damage the driver board.

Step Three: Isolate the Power Supply.
This simply involves removing the top J2 and right J3 power supply connectors. (The top connector supplies 5/-12 volts to the CPU and driver board, the right side connector supplies display voltages to the score displays.) Only the bottom J1 power supply connector is attached (makes sure it's attached properely too, because this connector can be reversed!) Now turn the game on. The power supply's top connector J2 can be checked for +5 and -12 volts DC. The right side connector J3 can be checked for 60, 42, 8 and 4 volts DC. (The power supply board is screened with the voltage outputs for these connectors.) If any voltages are missing, you will need to repair the power supply before continuing. (More information on that can be found in the Power Supply section.)

Step Four: Power Up with the CPU board Only.
Now that the power supply checks out, the CPU board can be added to the mix. All CPU connectors can be removed except for the left most J1 (power) connector. Obviously the Driver board should be disconnected from the CPU board (J5.) Also remove the two right side CPU connectors J2 and J3 (which go to the score displays.) Disconnect J6 and J7 (switch matrix) connectors too.

#25 58 days ago
Quoted from pinmike:

Step One: Power off, Check the Lower Board Fuses & Bridges.
With the game off remove each of the fuses one at a time and test with a Multimeter (DMM) set to continuity. If a fuse is blown, just don't replace it (just yet). Fuses often blow for a reason. Note what the fuse does (there should be labels for each of the fuses).
If for example the fuse for the CPU driven 6 volt lamp power is blown, test its accompanying bridge rectifier (because if the bridge is shorted, its accompanying fuse will blow). There's only two bridge rectifiers in a system1 game (25 volts coil power, 6 volts cpu driven lamp power.)
If the 69 volt fuse for the score displays is blown, this often means one of the power supply's four 1N4004 diodes used for rectifying this voltage is shorted. If a 6.3 volt general illumination lighting fuse is blown, that can often mean a shorted light socket on the playfield.
Now that the lower fuse panel is all checked out, REMOVE the 25 volt solenoid fuse before proceeding! Set it aside for later.
Step Two: Power off, Check Playfield Coil Resistance.
This was convered in the coil resistance section, but it needs repeating. If a driver board transistor shorted or there is a ground issue, a coil can lock-on and burn. If this is the case, either cut the non-banded diode lead going to the coil, or replace the coil. I do this before initial power-up. Because a burned (shorted) low-resistance coil can damage the driver board.
Step Three: Isolate the Power Supply.
This simply involves removing the top J2 and right J3 power supply connectors. (The top connector supplies 5/-12 volts to the CPU and driver board, the right side connector supplies display voltages to the score displays.) Only the bottom J1 power supply connector is attached (makes sure it's attached properely too, because this connector can be reversed!) Now turn the game on. The power supply's top connector J2 can be checked for +5 and -12 volts DC. The right side connector J3 can be checked for 60, 42, 8 and 4 volts DC. (The power supply board is screened with the voltage outputs for these connectors.) If any voltages are missing, you will need to repair the power supply before continuing. (More information on that can be found in the Power Supply section.)
Step Four: Power Up with the CPU board Only.
Now that the power supply checks out, the CPU board can be added to the mix. All CPU connectors can be removed except for the left most J1 (power) connector. Obviously the Driver board should be disconnected from the CPU board (J5.) Also remove the two right side CPU connectors J2 and J3 (which go to the score displays.) Disconnect J6 and J7 (switch matrix) connectors too.

Thanks Mike! You have been awesome helping me. I going to get to work and will give an update to what I find out. What a mess. Love working on the Genie but love when she plays well even more.

#26 58 days ago
Quoted from pinmike:

Step One: Power off, Check the Lower Board Fuses & Bridges.
With the game off remove each of the fuses one at a time and test with a Multimeter (DMM) set to continuity. If a fuse is blown, just don't replace it (just yet). Fuses often blow for a reason. Note what the fuse does (there should be labels for each of the fuses).
If for example the fuse for the CPU driven 6 volt lamp power is blown, test its accompanying bridge rectifier (because if the bridge is shorted, its accompanying fuse will blow). There's only two bridge rectifiers in a system1 game (25 volts coil power, 6 volts cpu driven lamp power.)
If the 69 volt fuse for the score displays is blown, this often means one of the power supply's four 1N4004 diodes used for rectifying this voltage is shorted. If a 6.3 volt general illumination lighting fuse is blown, that can often mean a shorted light socket on the playfield.
Now that the lower fuse panel is all checked out, REMOVE the 25 volt solenoid fuse before proceeding! Set it aside for later.
Step Two: Power off, Check Playfield Coil Resistance.
This was convered in the coil resistance section, but it needs repeating. If a driver board transistor shorted or there is a ground issue, a coil can lock-on and burn. If this is the case, either cut the non-banded diode lead going to the coil, or replace the coil. I do this before initial power-up. Because a burned (shorted) low-resistance coil can damage the driver board.
Step Three: Isolate the Power Supply.
This simply involves removing the top J2 and right J3 power supply connectors. (The top connector supplies 5/-12 volts to the CPU and driver board, the right side connector supplies display voltages to the score displays.) Only the bottom J1 power supply connector is attached (makes sure it's attached properely too, because this connector can be reversed!) Now turn the game on. The power supply's top connector J2 can be checked for +5 and -12 volts DC. The right side connector J3 can be checked for 60, 42, 8 and 4 volts DC. (The power supply board is screened with the voltage outputs for these connectors.) If any voltages are missing, you will need to repair the power supply before continuing. (More information on that can be found in the Power Supply section.)
Step Four: Power Up with the CPU board Only.
Now that the power supply checks out, the CPU board can be added to the mix. All CPU connectors can be removed except for the left most J1 (power) connector. Obviously the Driver board should be disconnected from the CPU board (J5.) Also remove the two right side CPU connectors J2 and J3 (which go to the score displays.) Disconnect J6 and J7 (switch matrix) connectors too.

Mike, before any of the shorted coil and PF going dead problems ever started the game was quitting at anytime mid game whether it hit energized a coil or not. I had been going back and forth with the fine folks at Ni-Wumpf about the issue as this board was 12 years old. They sent me a test board and it came late today. I did not expect it to do anything for the coil and PF problems but it WAS THE CPU that was causing the PF Tilt issues!! I was shocked. Great news as the game is ALIVE! But I had the 2 drop target coils disconnected.

So now I am back to what is causing the coil to short? Could it be the CPU that was the culprit of everything?? I believe the drop target coils are CPU controlled and not Driver controlled. I am reluctant to wire the drop target coils back up but unless I do how will I know if it is a bad coil, transistor, or driver board? If it still shorts the 2a fuse should protect the CPU right? The clock is running for me to figure this out but I do not want to do any damage to their CPU. Half of my Genie Christmas miracle has been answered but still need to get the coil and drop targets working.

What do you think?? You are a very knowledgeable person for sure and without people like you we would not have a chance. Thanks Mike!

#27 58 days ago

Ni-Wumpf thinks the Driver Board is what shorted and caused the CPU to shut down and thinks I should test the Driver Board before trying to connect the R drop target coil. Man, its the 4th quarter and I have 2 days to get this right and feel so close! How do I test a Driver board??? Thanks Mike I will never forget your help here.

#28 58 days ago

Your very welcome and im glad progress is being made Ok,The driver board in your game is it original board? I reread your post above and i see you stated its a rottendog driver board,very good board

Next thing we will try is to test diodes,transistors and coil resistance

#29 58 days ago
Quoted from Genieye:

it WAS THE CPU that was causing the PF Tilt issues!

I would have never thought it would be on CPU..Wow

#30 58 days ago
Quoted from Genieye:

I believe the drop target coils are CPU controlled and not Driver controlled

Yes that's correct,Only the Pop bumpers, slingshots, coin door lockout and flipper coils are NOT CPU controlled. All other coils are controlled by the CPU.Next thing is to test those 2 coils for the drop targets,the diode on those coils and the coil resistance we will test.Here's what i'll do in the next few posts is explain how to test coli resistance in one post and how to test diodes on coil in other post and how to test transistors in another post...Sorry if i'm confusing you but this way each post will be for 3 different things to test.

#31 58 days ago

To test diode on a coil-power off game

1.set meter to diode setting
2.remove one leg of the diode on the coil
3.place black probe on banded side of diode
4.place red probe on non-banded side of diode
5.meter should read .4 through .6 anything lower or higher is bad/shorted diode.
next step on the same diode

1.place black probe on non-banded side of diode
2.place red probe on banded side of diode
3.meter should read ZERO...Any readings come up means bad/shorted diode.

#32 58 days ago

To test coil resistance-Power off game

Set meter to ohms/lowest resistance setting.Then put the meters red and black probes on each coil's lugs, A resistance of 2 ohms or greater should be seen if not then there's something wrong....Let me know what readings you get on this ok,That way if it's not 2 ohms or higher we will do more testing.

#33 58 days ago

To test transistor quick test 95% accurate-power off game

1.set meter on continuity setting
2.place black probe to ground(Gray strap in backbox)
3.touch the transistor tab with red probe
4.if the meter beeps when touching red probe to the tab of transistor it means that transistor has shorted/bad/faulty

#34 58 days ago

Pinmike - you are rocking this. High praise sir!

#35 58 days ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Pinmike - you are rocking this. High praise sir!

I am so thankful and impressed with Mike's knowledge and his willingness to help someone like myself. He is giving me a chance to hopefully get it fixed.I have been on a crash course for the last month since I bought Genie and have learned so much. Following his direction here is going to teach me a lot more about detailed pinball troubleshooting and repair. Thanks Mike! I am getting to work and will let you know what I find!

#36 58 days ago
Quoted from pinmike:

To test diode on a coil-power off game
1.set meter to diode setting
2.remove one leg of the diode on the coil
3.place black probe on banded side of diode
4.place red probe on non-banded side of diode
5.meter should read .4 through .6 anything lower or higher is bad/shorted diode.
next step on the same diode
1.place black probe on non-banded side of diode
2.place red probe on banded side of diode
3.meter should read ZERO...Any readings come up means bad/shorted diode.

Quoted from pinmike:

To test coil resistance-Power off game
Set meter to ohms/lowest resistance setting.Then put the meters red and black probes on each coil's lugs, A resistance of 2 ohms or greater should be seen if not then there's something wrong....Let me know what readings you get on this ok,That way if it's not 2 ohms or higher we will do more testing.

Morning Mike! I took the coil off and tested the resistance putting each lead on each lug. The VM is set to 200 and I get a reading of 0.8 If I set the VM to 2000 it reads 00.0 which seems shorted?? That is with the diode attached. I did not cut the diode yet as it seems that might completely damage this coil as there is no room to resolder on the front. I guess I could cut in the back but would have to be careful not to cut or damage the small red coil wire. What do you think? THANKS!

IMG_7109 (resized).JPGIMG_7110 (resized).JPG
#37 58 days ago
Quoted from MurphyPeoples:

Pinmike - you are rocking this. High praise sir!

Quoted from Genieye:

I am so thankful and impressed with Mike's knowledge and his willingness to help someone like myself. He is giving me a chance to hopefully get it fixed.I have been on a crash course for the last month since I bought Genie and have learned so much. Following his direction here is going to teach me a lot more about detailed pinball troubleshooting and repair. Thanks Mike! I am getting to work and will let you know what I find!

Good morning guys Thank you I appreciate it!!

#38 58 days ago
Quoted from Genieye:

The VM is set to 200 and I get a reading of 0.8 If I set the VM to 2000 it reads 00.0 which seems shorted??

yes that is very low and yes i do see that to cut off that diode is a bit tight.That diode looks a bit rough and looks old,Did you measure the other coil?

#39 57 days ago
Quoted from pinmike:

yes that is very low and yes i do see that to cut off that diode is a bit tight.That diode looks a bit rough and looks old,Did you measure the other coil?

After letting Ni-Wumpf know that their board fixed the PF going dead they pretty much said convinced me that the Driver Board is shorted and said that I need to replace it. It is 12 years old. With the drop target coils out I cranked up the game and it will play then go to Tilt and go dead. I power it up and it does it again after a ball or 2. I read that the driver controls the Tilt relay so it makes sense that this board is the culpit. Mike what do you think?

I am not going to play with it anymore until I get a new board and coil unless you have any other recommendations. Marco is close to where I live. I could actually drive to get it but will see how fast they can ship it to me. From what a gather there is not much you can do to troubleshoot a bad Rottendog Driver board? That true?

I would love your feedback on this before I do anything. You have been awesome! Thanks.

#40 57 days ago
Quoted from Genieye:

After letting Ni-Wumpf know that their board fixed the PF going dead they pretty much said convinced me that the Driver Board is shorted and said that I need to replace it. It is 12 years old. With the drop target coils out I cranked up the game and it will play then go to Tilt and go dead. I power it up and it does it again after a ball or 2. I read that the driver controls the Tilt relay so it makes sense that this board is the culpit. Mike what do you think?
I am not going to play with it anymore until I get a new board and coil unless you have any other recommendations. Marco is close to where I live. I could actually drive to get it but will see how fast they can ship it to me. From what a gather there is not much you can do to troubleshoot a bad Rottendog Driver board? That true?
I would love your feedback on this before I do anything. You have been awesome! Thanks.

Yes i would suspect the driver board is the problem because the coils to drop targets are CPU controlled.I would also get 2 new coils for the drop targets,Give me a few minutes to take a look into the rottendog driver board and see which component that controls the tilt and see if something we can do to get it fixed

#41 57 days ago

Here's a schematic for genie i just put this up for later on to look at
genie2 (resized).png

#42 57 days ago

The game over relay coil and the tilt relay coil are main suspects also and they both have 1n4004 diodes these diodes are suspect also because its letting you play a game but then it tilts or game over pops up,I have an idea if you would like to try.
disconnect both of those coils the game over relay coil and the tilt relay coil,This way the tilt coils and the drop target coils will be diconnected.Then power up game and see if the game plays without tilting or end the game during a play.If you plan on doing this make sure you take pics of those coils before taking them out so this way there's no confusion to where the wires go back on those coils.What do you think?It shouldnt hurt anything just a bit of a little more work.

I'm still looking into that driver board

#43 57 days ago

Ok here's more info about the rottendog driver board,This board is very reliable and the transistors on that board can easily be tested without taking the board out of the backbox.

The Rottendog replacement Gottlieb System 1 driver board. The cool thing
about this board is the updated design. The Dawg people updated the
driver board so it uses one common MOSfet driver for all the coils and
lamps. The MOSfets are rated to handle way more current than the original
Gottlieb components, so it is unlikely you'll ever have to repair this board.
Price is very reasonable too.

s1drv1r (resized).jpg
#44 57 days ago

Let's test the transistors on the rottendog driver board and see if any of those transistors have shorted..It only takes a few minutes to do

#45 57 days ago
Quoted from pinmike:

Here's a schematic for genie i just put this up for later on to look at
[quoted image]

I would like to know what I did if anything to cause all of this. We suspected the old Ni-Wumpf CPU was causing the game to quit to begin with. Maybe it just had seen better days but how did replacing the target box and coils cause this all to happen? Here are the chain of events that took place to get to this point.

1. Took Drop Target Box off and replaced the targets and replaced the box. All looked good.
2. Game plays but targets wont reset. Ran a coil test, not energizing.
3. Found the R coil sparked and blew 2a fuse. Checked wiring and all looks good according to everyone.
4. Touching the R coil left lug with 2 Orange/Brown wires again sparked and toasted the fuse and then the PF goes Dead. Tilt light on
5. Receive new Ni-Wumpf board sent to see if it fixes the initial problem of game randomly quitting.
6. To our huge surprise the new CPU fixed the PF out problem-Genie is alive!
7. Ni-Wumpf says the Driver caused a CPU short and caused their board to fail. Recommend replacing the Driver board.
8. Removed the upper coils started 2 games, each one played a bit then went straight to Tilt. Start new game its fine then Tilt and dead.

How could replacing the drop target box cause all this?? Did I somehow short the coil that fried the Driver then CPU?? I know its probably anything could have happened.

I am going to drive 100 miles to Marco to pick up the new Driver and 2 coils. I pray this will take care of it and the Genie will be ready for Christmas. Wow what a chain of event.

Mike I could not have had a chance to fix her without you!! Awesome. Any ideas on all this??

#46 57 days ago
Quoted from pinmike:

Ok here's more info about the rottendog driver board,This board is very reliable and the transistors on that board can easily be tested without taking the board out of the backbox.
The Rottendog replacement Gottlieb System 1 driver board. The cool thing
about this board is the updated design. The Dawg people updated the
driver board so it uses one common MOSfet driver for all the coils and
lamps. The MOSfets are rated to handle way more current than the original
Gottlieb components, so it is unlikely you'll ever have to repair this board.
Price is very reasonable too.[quoted image]

The board in the game is 12 years old so that might be a reason. The new CPU seems to be much better than the 12 year old original. Things of course get improved over time. Ni-Wumpf says I should replace the Rottendog and put in the new Gottlieb System 1 Driver. Think that's a good choice?

There is a Tilt and Game Over cluster of switches but I do not see any coils associated with them?? Where are they? How do I test the transistors? it sounds like I can do it with the board attached.

#47 57 days ago
Quoted from Genieye:

Did I somehow short the coil that fried the Driver then CPU??

Quoted from Genieye:

Any ideas on all this??

I do believe the drop target coils sent a spike and fried the chip on the CPU,Those drop target coils and the diodes on those coils are mostly fried/bad/faulty.
Then when you lifted up the playfield with power on caused a short to the rottendog driver board transistor or transistors.It very easy to cause a short on any pinball machine,just a slight metal touch to powered on coils can cause a short.

#48 57 days ago
Quoted from Genieye:

it sounds like I can do it with the board attached

Yes you can test the transistors while the board is attached.

To test transistor quick test 95% accurate-power off game
1.set meter on continuity setting
2.place black probe to ground(Gray strap in backbox)
3.touch the transistor tab with red probe
4.if the meter beeps when touching red probe to the tab of transistor it means that transistor has shorted/bad/faulty

Test all the transistors on that board,Remember you dont have to remove the board or the transistors off the board to test them

#49 57 days ago
Quoted from Genieye:

the Rottendog and put in the new Gottlieb System 1 Driver. Think that's a good choice?

The rottendog board is a good board and very reliable but the new Gottlieb system 1 driver board it is way more upgraded.

#50 57 days ago
Quoted from Genieye:

but I do not see any coils associated with them??

They may have been removed during ground modifications...Didnt you solder the tilt switch together?

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