Well there is a beautiful DE SW for sale right now on here. So jump on it!! Pretty nice machine!

Just wanted to let everyone know that Marco sells the upgrade playfield support brackets I need. They are 'upgraded' versions with four screw holes instead of two. Part #535-0005-00

I just installed them on my DESW this week. Nice and sturdy but I balked a bit at the price!

Spent some time today on mine and cleaned the inserts of the coil dust and installed LEDs. Next few weeks I'll strip down the playfield, shop it and install LEDs in the GIs. Looks a lot better already with the inserts lit well. I have mirror blades to install once I have it all put back together, should look sharp.

Hey, while I'm thinking of it, I'm looking for a Jabba's Bounty plastic if anyone has one for sale or knows who is selling one. Otherwise I'm just placing a micromachine Jabba up on top of it.

On the left side, the wood was ripped out where the original support was. I glued as much of the remaining wood back in, so I was glad the replacements had extra screw holes. Few more things I need to do to finish this game - ordered touch up paint, will need to replace legs, and translite needs a new channel plastic on left side. After that I'm calling it done.

I ordered one of those repro Darth Vader toppers from eBay for I think 100 shipped. It came and had a slight scratch along the bottom of it. Emailed the guy and he sent me another one. So does anyone want to buy my spare? Just pm if interested. Not original, but looks identical...

I have a repro one. Doesn't have the original bend in it. It's just a flat piece.

Just saw one last night at pinballcenter.eu. lots of star wars plastics on that site!

Just wanted to bump this to see if anyone could take a look at their machine or if anyone here has experience replacing rubbers on this machine and could offer some help.

On another note, just wanted to give a kudos to Clive at Coin-Op Cauldron for reworking my MPU. Sent it in for a bad slingshot transistor and he fixed that along with cleaning up, replacing several other components (most of this was over my head), and testing the completed unit for a mere $88. Oh and he installed a remote battery pack to boot. Plugged it right up and it works like a charm!

Only downside was that his backlog was then about 6 weeks, which fortunately motivated me to do a topside teardown while it was out of commission. Found lots of hacks as far as wrong posts,screws, strange rubber substitutions/rerouting, incomplete "100% LED conversion!!!" and took a lot of time and many small orders to Marcos and Pinball Life to get it close to original condition as possible (exception of LEDs of course).

Looks great and plays WAY faster now. It'll be awhile before I can get close to my old grand champion score.

I'm thinking maybe the center shaft under R2-D2? It's about the right size and in an area of the pf that the ball could travel in.

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Hrmmm..... maybe the manual was wrong?

I've got 2 blue flex LEDs in R2's head currently. Looks pretty good but I just googled those comet strips and they look like a neat product. Lots of possibilities with the multiple socket configurations and seems like a good price too. Any flicker issues?

Late posting but I joined the club last weekend. Picked up one locally that need a little TLC. Ramp required 4 TIG welds, as the right side was more than halfway to breaking off. R2D2 wouldn't jump and some flashers wouldn't fire, both related to transistors that had been replaced but not enough solder put down to make contact with the pcb. Needed a scrub cleaning and all new rubber. Some old solder from previous repair had dripped onto a molex connector and shorted out the c3p0 trough switch. Needs Cliffy's (on the way) and had to sand and lacquer the shooter lane. Plastic shield over DMD was scratched up so I just removed it (I wonder if the damage is from those nubs on the dmd itself, it's an old Cherry display). Upgraded to 1.04 ROM and added a bunch of LED's in the inserts. Replaced the left yellow target of the front pair and put in new target foam in all the targets. Added cab connection to my external sub.

Seems to play great now, but have spent may more time fixing it than playing it. I love the uber dangerous Death Star shot. Still need to touch up the cab, mostly the front. The bumper caps all have cracks so I got red ones from Marco, but they're almost too red compared to the orange-ish originals that go better with the pf artwork. Might consider doing 2 red and 2 green to mimic the light saber duel. Anyway, it's a cool game and is loaded with toys. Amazing what they did in the 90's. One odd thing with Data East is the volume control is buried deep in the menu and is only 25%, 50%, 75%, and 100%.

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Looks good but fyi there is a volume dial in the cabinet but the service outlet but if you have the menu setting at 100%, the volume is pretty loud even with the dial right down.

Aha! Thanks for the tip. 75% does work better now that I can get it reasonably quiet. That pot crackles but that's the nature of the beast.

Yeah my volume pot is crunchy too. But I have it set where I want it and pretty much leave it alone.

Page 32 under "Rubber Parts Illustration"

The rubber I'm referring to is "C Post Rubber (5) Long 545-5260-00"

Where the (5) must be the quantity, and a new rubber kit from Marco comes with 5 of those bad boys, just as it comes with (23) Post Rubber Short 545-5151-00.

Unfortunately the reference "C" is not anywhere on the diagram.... doh!

I've currently got it on the R2 shaft, which required removing the c-clips and a set screw on the motor linkage and sliding the shaft out. Seems to fit just right and makes sense to me being as it could possibly (though rarely) be hit by the ball.

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I'm not sure if anyone came up with this lighted Yoda mod.
Notice the mirror blades, which is a tight fit, but has just enough side clearance when lifting the playfield.

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Yes, I replaced the bulb with a cool white. It looked better than a warm white LED.

I believe mine is, and I think it gives it just enough space to miss the rollover switch and not register a Star Wars letter/R2D2 shot. Kind of stinks on a victory lap.

That's a wonderful job on the shooter lane. Which lacquer did you specifically use? Did you do it as outlined by Vid in his restoration post? Tell us more.

Speaking of victory lap. how do you get it on the new code? I've never seen it.

Thanks. Just followed the instructions here:
http://www.treasure-cove.net/ShooterLaneRepair.htm

The only difference is that it's easier if you tape the 60-grit sandpaper to a dowel rod, mine was 3/8" diameter but anything similar might work, possibly even a pencil (if it's round). Somebody else had that in their bag of tricks, perhaps Vid as you mentioned. It also retains the shape of the groove. You'll go through several little strips of paper and the tape might come off several times but it's all pretty easy to do. Just work it until it's clean, and note that the wood itself might be dark like in Star Wars. One game I thought dark meant dirty and kept sanding and sanding and sanding...

Have to tape off well because that lacquer will get everywhere. You'll likely still get it in a few places you don't want but the light dusting you get can be cleaned off. Then center of the lane is the smoothest and the edges look a little bumpy from the splatter, but it's pretty subtle and looks fine once you put the playfield back in the game. Maybe thorough sanding with a super fine grit paper would smooth it all out but I wasn't looking for pristine collector quality, just nice enough for me and and it seems great. They mention putting down mylar and I concur as one game I didn't and the lacquer started to wear off where the ball enters the lane. That pic doesn't have the mylar but it's in there now.

The lacquer I used was Rustoleum, but I imagine any name brand spray lacquer would work. The treasure cove site mentions Ace hardware but Lowe's was much closer. Home Depot has it, too.

Also, they mention finishing with 1500 grit sandpaper. They won't have that at the hardware store, but auto parts stores carry it.

Tired of the airballs off the center targets, even after installing some foam behind them. Also decided that the plastic above those targets was boring anyway.

This weekend I found this Millenium Falcon toy for 50 cents. I took it apart and installed a plastic base I cut from a Turtle Wax top.

Looks great and I'll report if the extra overhang keeps the air balls from launching like crazy on direct hits of the targets. Using double sided 3M tape top secure it just for now during testing.

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That's very clever! Let us know.

That'd be easy. I did that with Baywatch.

Played a few games and still got some airballs. But I can move this out a bit more and see if it makes a difference. Regardless, it looks like a terrific custom plastic and is not out of place at all. Looks sharp!

Since I got mine I've discovered a few things. The deflector plate in the Death Star causes a lot of rejects, similar to the IJ scoop deflector, so I've put a felt pad on there for now and ordered some drop dead foam. Hopefully that does the trick. I'd rather not mess with bending the plate, but that'll be the next step if necessary.

Also, I see just about every Star Wars has wear on the side rails right above the lock bar. This is caused by the loose lockbar that I presume is common on all DE machines. The solution here is pretty simple, take the lockbar out and bend the tabs forward a little bit with a crescent wrench. If you bend too far, it won't latch, but I got mine just right and now it's nice and snug. I hate having it move around while I'm shaking the machine. Using some black paint to cover the wear spots.

I also tried taking off the rubber half-posts at the top of the slings, to give it more bounce like most other games. But alas, this seems to lead to quicker outlane drains, so I put them back on. So if you want to make the game harder, there ya go. Put clear rubber on the slings (2.5", as they don't make 2.75" clear) and it looks great. I love clear rubber on slings.

Also found it odd that there are nails (?!) under the slingshot plastics. This does a great job of scratching the graphics. There's a metal post under there that scratches a different spot as well. So looks like you need plastic protectors before installing new ones.

Would also like for someone to produce a 44 flex fast color changing LED to go under the light saber insert. If there's already one out there that I'm just not aware of, I'd love to know about it.
EDIT: Maybe this would work, http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1fluxrgb-w.htm

On a final note, getting the double jackpot is harder than I thought it would be. Tough game!

I think it happens after collecting the super jackpot on the Death Star the first time.

I'm guessing you have your game set to give Extra Ball instead of Credits as an award in Adjustment 4? The settings for Game Awards are None, Extra Ball, Credits, Special.

If so... you will never see it. The game has to be set to Credits.

This is one of those things that "now I know" how to change. I fixed this in Jurassic Park to offer up Victory Lap regardless if the game is on Credit or Extra Ball.

Basically, there is no code change around the way Victory Lap is activated in the 1.04 ROM. It is identical to the old ROM.

It is on my little list of "if I ever go back" changes.

I have a 44 flex fast color changer in my light Saber area and it looks great! Also have them in my scoops as well. Mounted new sockets under the pf and got double super long flex and aimed them into the slot of the scoops. They look awesome!! The 3 and 7 smd strips work great for the rear of area. And I have 4 spotlights with 4 smd purple leds lighting most of the pf. Makes all the colors pop!!

Close! But not completely! Got my under cab led kit installed and it works and looks awesome! From rock custom pinball. Was only 100$ and is tied in to flash with gameplay. Also need to get a few more smd led strips and mirror blades! The mirror blades will be the last to go in!

Even though I still need to order the rest of the LEDs, rubber and two plastics before doing the full tear down shop job, I felt like installing the mirror blades today.

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VERY snug fit, at least on my cabinet. But I installed them first and then peeled the protective coating off. Don't think it'll be an issue with scratching and it looks fantastic.