Cyclone
Williams, 1988Quoted from TheOnlyest:If it were me, i'd level the inserts, then apply a full protector... just my opinion.
What's your method for leveling inserts? I've tried a "c" clamp with wooden blocks to protect the playfield. No luck. The raise is slight enough or glue is strong enough that the inserts dont want to budge. Thays when I resorted to a few pieces of mylar.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:What's your method for leveling inserts? I've tried a "c" clamp with wooden blocks to protect the playfield
Thats how I always do it!
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Thats how I always do it!
Perhaps my inserts are so slightly raised that I'm overreacting. I dont know. Or maybe I'm not putting enough pressure on with the C clamp.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Perhaps my inserts are so slightly raised that I'm overreacting. I dont know. Or maybe I'm not putting enough pressure on with the C clamp.
Can always use a heat gun and remove them. Then clean them up and use epoxy to reglue them.
Quoted from Tomass:Can always use a heat gun and remove them. Then clean them up and use epoxy to reglue them.
If applying heat helps remove the inserts, perhaps I should apply some heat before using the c clamp and wooden blocks? I may try that. Honestly though I think the slight amount they are raised would be fine under a playfield protector. I'm curious if anyone has one on a Cyclone, or another old Williams game. What's everyones thoughts on protectors? I normally hate them and would never put one on a new game. But.......
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:What's everyones thoughts on protectors? I normally hate them and would never put one on a new game. But.......
It totally depends on the game. a new game or PF with 21st century clearcoat technologies shouldn't need one, but if the clearcoat on your Cyclone PF wasn't strong or thick enough to retain inserts from lifting while sitting in a box, I wouldn't hesitate to add a protector! But I suspect that your inserts were always like that due to inadequate curing of the clearcoat when it was made. I would simply do whatever was necessary to avoid playing pinball on a bumpy PF, especially if the PF was unpopulated and the opportunity to correct it was screaming at me. Adding a protector, or any mylar over a raised insert, doesn't level the surface, it turns a bump into a tiny ramp.
Every insert i've ever fixed was on a fully populated PF, sometimes you have to remove a ramp or a few items from the bottom, like a light socket or 2. I use clamps like these...
61twEGXN85L._AC_SL1200_ (resized).jpg8197K-noTdL._AC_SL1500_ (resized).jpg
Quoted from TheOnlyest:It totally depends on the game. a new game or PF with 21st century clearcoat technologies shouldn't need one, but if the clearcoat on your Cyclone PF wasn't strong or thick enough to retain inserts from lifting while sitting in a box, I wouldn't hesitate to add a protector! But I suspect that your inserts were always like that due to inadequate curing of the clearcoat when it was made. I would simply do whatever was necessary to avoid playing pinball on a bumpy PF, especially if the PF was unpopulated and the opportunity to correct it was screaming at me. Adding a protector, or any mylar over a raised insert, doesn't level the surface, it turns a bump into a tiny ramp.
Every insert i've ever fixed was on a fully populated PF, sometimes you have to remove a ramp or a few items from the bottom, like a light socket or 2. I use clamps like these...
[quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks for the info. That's the exact clamp I'm using, Harbor Freight 12" deep clamp. I agree that the clear on the playfield wasn't applied thick enough when it was produce around 10 years ago. I'll just have to give the inserts another attempt at leveling. I did go ahead and order the playfield protector from cointaker.
Quoted from jjoravec:Anyone know where I can find a CPR Cyclone playfield?
Planetary
Does anyone know the purpose of this switch? I assume it attatched to something on the topside? My topside was torn apart before I took posession of the machine. Its located just above the subway, and below the lower pop bumper. Thanks!!
16147324516396815713171786161044 (resized).jpg16147324754526778094502962679164 (resized).jpgQuoted from CoolCatPinball:Does anyone know the purpose of this switch? I assume it attatched to something on the topside? My topside was torn apart before I took posession of the machine. Its located just above the subway, and below the lower pop bumper. Thanks!!
[quoted image][quoted image]
I think the ramp entrance.
Quoted from Tomass:I think the ramp entrance.
I agree, looks like the Comet entrance. Should be connected to the wire form. Not home, so can't check. Will be skiing in TN on Thursday!
Awesome!! Yes, I do see it now, and luckily, the connection rod is in the magic box-o-parts I was given. Thanks!!
Skiing where in TN? Ober?
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Awesome!! Yes, I do see it now, and luckily, the connection rod is in the magic box-o-parts I was given. Thanks!!
Skiing where in TN? Ober?
I have tear down pics from my Cyclone if you need anything.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Skiing where in TN? Ober?
Yes, doing a Southern trip since I didn't feel like getting on a plane to Montana. Figured I have a bunch of free tickets with my "Indy" pass, so why not.
I need a Cyclone game to test fit my Ferris Wheel Exit ramp. Preferably one in the Phoenix Valley but if I don't find one here, I would be willing to ship it to someone to test fit themselves.
Quoted from lrosent345:I need a Cyclone game to test fit my Ferris Wheel Exit ramp. Preferably one in the Phoenix Valley but if I don't find one here, I would be willing to ship it to someone to test fit themselves.
I'm in Las Vegas and can help if you need it. Ironically, i'm about to start a full restore on a Whitewater, and will be placing a big expensive order with you soon!
Quoted from Tomass:Does anyone know the best way to share a bunch of pics? I have a ton of pics from the teardown but it will take forever emailing 3 at a time.
Google drive.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Google drive.
Is that a free service?
Quoted from Tomass:Is that a free service?
Yup, just like everything else google. If you have a google account, you already have it!
Tech question. I ordered 2 new flipper assemblies. The old ones have an additional leaf spring stack attatched, and a few other small differences. Do I need to transfer the additional leaf stack to the new assembly? Or is that just old technology and no longer needed? Any and all help appreciated.
20210306_130555 (resized).jpg20210306_130607 (resized).jpgBasically, you have the wrong part. That extra switch is usually a lane change switch. I guess you could transfer it but you'll have to rewire it also.
Quoted from lrosent345:Basically, you have the wrong part. That extra switch is usually a lane change switch. I guess you could transfer it but you'll have to rewire it also.
Seriously?! Marco listed them as correct. Maybe the assembly doesnt include extras like lane change switches. I solder and wire on a daily basis at work, so I guess I'll rewire??? I would just refurb my old ones, but someone did a number on the old wiring on one side.Heres the old left flipper wiring 
16150576650771980340041543402928 (resized).jpg16150576943168522918620723894397 (resized).jpg
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Yup, just like everything else google. If you have a google account, you already have it!
Ok, I see it and tried to use it. Is there a way to move a whole album from my phone into Drive so I can share it? When I try to add a file it will only let me move 1 file at a time.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:The old ones have an additional leaf spring stack attatched, and a few other small differences. Do I need to transfer the additional leaf stack to the new assembly?
Yes, just transfer the lane-change switch stacks from the old ones to the new ones. Re-use the screws from the old ones, so that they're long enough to go through the EOS switch stack on the new ones. Be careful that the lane-change switches don't make any electrical contact with anything in the flipper assembly. The lane-change switches are low voltage while the rest of the flipper assembly is much higher voltage--including the EOS switches that they're mounted to. You'll fry something if you get them crossed. Take note of the position of the bands on the diodes on your old coil and match the wire positions to the bands on the new unit's diodes--easy to get that messed up especially when your coils are installed facing different directions between your new and old assemblies.
Quoted from kyle5574:Yes, just transfer the lane-change switch stacks from the old ones to the new ones. Re-use the screws from the old ones, so that they're long enough to go through the EOS switch stack on the new ones. Be careful that the lane-change switches don't make any electrical contact with anything in the flipper assembly. The lane-change switches are low voltage while the rest of the flipper assembly is much higher voltage--including the EOS switches that they're mounted to. You'll fry something if you get them crossed. Take note of the position of the bands on the diodes on your old coil and match the wire positions to the bands on the new unit's diodes--easy to get that messed up especially when your coils are installed facing different directions between your new and old assemblies.
Thanks! I'm going to work on the flippers now.
Edit: Got them sorted out I believe.
16150867170847482175909136066144 (resized).jpgI feel like I'm actually making progress! HUGE HUGE thanks to BrianZ, and Tomass for sharing their teardown pics. For those that may not know, the topside was torn down before I bought the machine, so, the shared pictures are an absolute LIFE SAVER. Thanks again guys.
20210307_220111 (resized).jpg20210307_220129 (resized).jpg20210307_220035 (resized).jpgHello!
I am still somewhat new to Pinside! Love my Cyclone machine. It is one of my favorites!
I recently made a small change to the Ferris Wheel assembly in that, I swapped out the motor gearbox for a .9° stepper motor. Originally, the 11rpm Hankscraft that was on the machine was locking up. I found it a cheaper solution to go with a stepper motor and an A4988 driver and vibration damper for quiet operation. Direct shaft-to-belt with no gearbox, completely silent operation with plenty of torque, if needed. The good thing about this mod is, if I ever want to go back to original, I only need to remove the stepper and install an ac motor/gearbox. The only thing I modified was the plate the motor mounts to.
I just added two holes, that was it. A 24vac relay, tied to the original motor drive molex, to trigger the stepper was added but can easily be swapped back.
Here's a video of the operation:
20210308_220723 (resized).jpgI'm thinking the metal post to the left of the pop bumper is correct as opposed to the star post. I'm still up in the air about the right side star post fastener. The plastic spook house cover does have a hole in the corner which would indicate that a threaded post stud comes up through it. However, I've now seen 2 machines with a standard Phillip's head in that post. Also, one of the plastic ramps runs directly over that spot, so if something is supposed to stick up, it cant be very tall or it will bump the ramp.
Edit: in case it helps anyone. The top right corner of the spook house should have a threaded post stud in it to help secure the plastic cover. It cant be a long one or it will bump the ramp above it.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I feel like I'm actually making progress! HUGE HUGE thanks to BrianZ, and Tomass for sharing their teardown pics. For those that may not know, the topside was torn down before I bought the machine, so, the shared pictures are an absolute LIFE SAVER. Thanks again guys.
You are making me miss my machine. Keep posting the updates. Love to see the progress!
Now to find my old machine... One of you guys/girls in Dallas has to have my machine. If you do, give me a ping!
Quoted from cconway84:Playfield swap in progress. Going to look brand new when it’s done.
[quoted image]
Your old one is in better shape than mine
Where did you get the new playfield? Would like to replace mine one of these days!
Quoted from cconway84:Playfield swap in progress. Going to look brand new when it’s done.
[quoted image]
Quoted from redmerlin:Where did you get the new playfield? Would like to replace mine one of these days!
Here you go.....http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-1002-564
Quoted from redmerlin:Where did you get the new playfield? Would like to replace mine one of these days!
I bought the last silk screened cpr playfield from Kevin. I believe this was like a 2013 pf that was in his personal collection until now.
Sorry to keep asking questions, but this decal was included in the parts I was given and I cant find where it goes. I've searched for some time now. Is it even for cyclone? Maybe comet? It's the type that has the adhesive on the image, so you stick it under plastic. Any ideas anyone??
20210313_012152 (resized).jpgQuoted from Absolom:I recently made a small change to the Ferris Wheel assembly in that, I swapped out the motor gearbox for a .9° stepper motor. Originally, the 11rpm Hankscraft that was on the machine was locking up. I found it a cheaper solution to go with a stepper motor and an A4988 driver and vibration damper for quiet operation.
Intriguing. I only really knew stepper motors from my em games so I looked it up. The rotation looks very smooth, so if I understand correctly, that at 0,9° per phase you‘ll have almost 400 phases per rotation so I guess you don‘t see the individual phases. What‘s the purpose of the A4988 ? - to control the current and thus the final speed? Where is the vibration damper?
Quoted from jaytrem:I don't recognize that decal from Cyclone or Comet.
Thanks Jay, I won't worry about it then. It was just in the bottom of the box with all the new and old ramps.
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Knoxville, TN
Berlin
