I didn’t have to make any modifications. I used 13 smd white tower flashers without modification.
They are blindingly bright and highle recommend them.

I also used them in the back box for the fireworks. Experiment with the colors to see which you like best.
To light up the cyclone I used two red flat flashers for the eyes. A blue flasher for the mouth. Eyes look great when they flash.
Warm white for Ronnie and Nancy.a two smd flex bulb to light the next row. After that , teal blue , ice blue and finally a blue at the end of the coaster.

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You may blow up the circuit. 28v 1251 are designed to stay on... not strobe.
#89 draws way more current.

These look and work perfect!
No issues .

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If you look all the way to the right edge of the playfield, the black is dirt, smoke, crud… it was awful.
You can start to see the color change from black to wood.

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Is something missing here? This is above the PF GI flasher relay. Notice purple and yellow wires crimped and capped. I'm starting a swap on this, it's a friend's game. I don't know the history other than him buying it as is (working) 10 years ago.

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Pretty sure that relay you think is GI is the Ferris Wheel relay. The missing component is C-11998-1. It's the GI relay. The two wires crimped together effectively bypass what would be the GI relay.

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This part is out of stock at quite a few merchants but there are some that have them available.

• http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=C-11998-1
• ebay.com link: itm
• ebay.com link: itm

I am sure there are others.

I have this board available if you want one. You can see an image @ https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bringing-a-taxi-back-to-life-renew-and-refresh/page/2#post-6545202 if you're interested.

Doh, the purple and yellow wires should have tipped me off as I know these are GI wire colors. Can somebody please post a pic of the connector/s.

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Thank you so much! Luckily J1 wasn't cut but I have to figure out how to connect the GI wires. I hope it's in the manual somewhere. I'll probably have to add wire or move the relay closer.

Starting PF swap. Opinions please on bumper colors.

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I like the originals. For some reason didn't mind that my Hurricane came with different colors though. Might be because I think that is supposed to be some kind of ride on the Cyclone and I think of them a maybe being balloons on the Hurricane.

+1 for original. But its your game, so I think you should do what looks best for your taste.

Is this an actual Cyclone part? I didn't see it on my game...

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-6644

No. Not for the Williams Cyclone, at least.

Lighted flippers in!

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It looks cool, but how does it play? It seems like it would be more distracting then if they weren’t lit up. Curious…..

Plays fantastic. Plus I really like being able to see.

In hunting down parts for Cyc I found a Ferris wheel cover with screened artwork, I guess these are seats? I didn't know until recently that this was used on Hurricane. Also Marco sells rider decal sets for 2 Ferris wheels, I only need one set. Does any supplier have these?

I also noticed this game doesn't have diodes on the coils, only the flipper coils do. One of the pop bumpers was wired reversed compared to the other two, I guess it doesn't make difference?

The double set is probably for the Hurricane. they are different. Planetary has the correct ones for the Cyclone...

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-1444-X

Most 2-lug coils dont use or need a diode, and there is no polarity.

I'm confused since HS had diodes on all coils. Cyclone is the newest game I have worked on so I don't know the diode situation.

I'm fairly certain (someone feel free to fact check me) that Williams moved the diodes off of the coils and onto the backbox driver board starting with System 11B (i.e. Big Guns and onward). In the process caused an unforeseen symptom that LED flashers tied to coils 3, 4, 6 and 7 to light up when flippers are flipped.

You are correct sir, the diodes are in the backbox. there's a couple different board configurations between system 11 B&C

That's what I was thinking since I'm unfamiliar w the aux power board. So the reversed wires on the one pop coil won't have an affect?

And I cannot use LED flashers in the coils listed here?

you can - there is a procedure that I've used on 4 of my system 11B machines. For transparency I did not author the steps below, but I'm having trouble finding the genius to give credit to. All I can say is that it works:

1. Purchase 1N400x diodes on Amzn. The "x" can be any number. I used 1N4001 but the others work too. You can get 50 of these for $3 shipped. Good to have on hand.

2. Find the aux power board in the backbox. It's located near the middle of the right side, BELOW the power supply (power supply has large heatsink). Find the diodes labeled D3, D4, D6, and D7 (diode = small wire with the black thing in the middle) on the aux power board. They are all next to each other vertically. Use a wire cutter to completely remove those four diodes I just mentioned.

3. Now find coils 3, 4, 6, and 7 under your playfield. If you have no clue which those are, grab the manual for your game and find the solenoid table, usually found towards the beginning. In the table, you will see the Solenoid # (i.e. the coil #) and then the function describes what it is so you can identify it. In Dr. Dude, you want the Ray coil, Gab coil, drop target coil, and knocker coil (you can skip that one if you disconnected it).

4. Solder a 1N400x diode to each of the above coils, with the gray banded side of the diode attaching to the power wire lug (power wire is the thicker wire of the two attached) and the non-banded side attaching to the other lug

****************
For Cyclone:
Coil 3 = skill shot kicker
Coil 4 = boomerang kicker
Coil 6 = (not used)
Coil 7 = Knocker

For LED flashers in a System 11B/11C game the above procedure works. It is a perfectly fine solution.

The original diodes are 1N4003. The 1N4001 is rated to 50V. The 1N4003 is rated to 200V. As the "50V" solenoid supply is often 70V-75V I would not recommend using the 1N4001. I would also not recommend a 1N4002 which is rated to 100V - not even double the solenoid supply voltage. I would use at least a 1N4003 - rated for more than double the solenoid voltage supply. What is commonly used across the machine is a 1N4004. Some people recommend using a 1N4007. These diodes can be found as cheap as $0.01 and $0.02.

<TL;DR>

As someone who has spent a lot of a career working on things that someone else has done (maintenance of products) there is a small risk for potential problems with the above procedure. I have found that if there is a potential for a mistake then someone will make that mistake. I placed an emphasis on prevention. The problem pertains to the cutting of the diodes on the Auxiliary Power board and installing them at the solenoid. The other solenoids in the machine will not have a diode across the solenoid lugs. Someone inexperienced (or even someone experienced that knows the solenoid did not come with a diode wired across it from the factory) will remove the diode - assuming that as a Williams System 11B/11C game the diode should be on the board in the backbox. This leads to a blown transistor and possibly some swear words. If I saw this on a machine I would immediately think to remove the diode as it is not necessary. If I were alert and thinking I would ask myself "why is this diode installed when it does not need to be?" but sometimes I get ahead of myself. If I ask that question I would immediately think that someone just put a diode on it because they didn't know any better (or bought a solenoid with a pre-installed diode) before potentially wandering to the Auxiliary Power board where if there is sufficient illumination I may see the cut/missing diode.

As mentioned above this is a perfectly fine solution and it works. It just introduces a small risk for this potential problem. Unfortunately there is no clean solution that is easy to implement on the OEM board without some crazy wire routing.

Another simple solution is just leave one incandescent bulb in any of 3C, 4C, 6C or 7C. That's enough to stop the problem. I have two other solutions for this. One is simple, overkill, not cheap but requires no modifications of any kind. The other is currently in testing, much cheaper but does require cutting the diodes and creating a short cable (wire harness).

</TL;DR>

good info about the diodes. I already have the 1N4004. I have actually thought of this very scenario in which somebody later on not knowing about the mod and removing the diode(s) or vice versa. I like the idea of just leaving one incan in one flasher. I really only wanted to add the 1251's to the subway in purple but I can't find this color in 1251. The other LED flashers I want to do are in the backbox.

Can somebody please explain how the arc reducing cap is installed on the flippers? I see how it is mounted and I think it gets wired across the EOS lugs. The cap leads are short and the way the coil goes on the lugs are too far away from either the EOS or the coil lugs. Will I need to add wire to the caps?

Some close pics would be great!

Anyone know where i can buy a playfield? My cyclone needs a new playfield and so far i cannot find one instock.

Hoping they make a hardtop for this title, honestly. The new ones are pretty much sold out, and it doesn’t sound like classic playfield is going to make anymore…☹️

I may or may not have bought the last one from CPR last month

They show as back ordered on CPR so there might be another re-run but it could be years before they make more. I am working on a friend's cyc and I told him about the CPR. I knew I would end up doing the swap but I told him anyway. There was 2 left in stock when I told him. He hesitated for a week or so and then bought one. It was still showing 2 in stock when ordered. Being at the end of the supply I was a little worried about the quality, but pleasantly surprised as it is very nice and swap is going well. I'm about 80% complete.

In the CPR Seawitch thread there was a picture posted from the factory. I counted 6 Cyclones on the drying racks. So hopefully that wasn't an old pic and they'll be in stock soon.

I grabbed one last month whhen it was listed as one left. Another showed up as available in the next day or so.

Budnik74 - More Cyclone playfields are in stock! Mine arrived with a scratch in the art UNDER the clearcoat and they are shipping me a new one to replace the defective playfield since they just made another small batch. They show in stock on the site right now

Great customer service with quick response and an immediate solution from CPR. Go git you some!!!

The ones I got in flipper rebuild kits from Marcos and caps that I've bought separately were both long enough to reach the EOS switch (they also came with little zip ties to keep them in place). I even had to clip a little off the end after soldering them in place. The leads were just bare wire, however, so I had to put some heatshrink tubing on them.

Here's a video about rebuilding the flippers:

If you need more specific closeups, I can grab my camera and take some. Essentially, each lead goes to each lug of the EOS switch. As far as the cap is concerned, it doesn't matter which end goes to which end.

Thanks for the post and this great video, but it came a few days after I had to get the flippers finished. Here's what I ended up doing from pics I found online. My caps only had 2 inches of wire on each end. One end could reach the solder tab of the EOS, I added wire to the other end and wrapped it around under the cap and to the EOS. I did as you did by adding some heat shrink tubing as an insulator. The swap isn't finished so I can report how the flippers are working. I also ordered new cab switches which should help a great deal.

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You used a "new" style flipper link with conical springs. You should use an "old" style flipper link with conical springs. It's a subtle difference.

Alternatively you can use the "new" style flipper link but go with the external extension spring (WPC style) rather than the conical compression spring (System 11 style).

New style link = https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-link-new-style.html
Old style link = https://www.pinballlife.com/williams-tapered-flipper-link-old-style.html

Thanks Victor. Nothing gets passed your keen eye. I already figured out that I had the wrong plunger link assy when I noticed that the plunger isn't hitting the coil stop. I need A-10665 R and pbr was out but I have one on the way.

No worries! Sounds like it's going to work great when it's all said and done.
---
How is everyone's 10k skill shot switch (part # 5647-12133-01)? The tip of mine was snapped off when I originally picked up my Cyclone. Turns out that, after reading through an old thread, they're unobtanium. I lucked out back then, finding one on ebay, but it has since snapped again. Has anyone had to improvise and make their own? The game functions fine without it, of course, but it would be nice to have it functional, especially with a more permanent solution.

Maybe look into MRS (magnetic reed switch). It’s sold here on Pinside by Sonic and blubboman . MRS replaces a mechanical switch with a contactless magnetic switch. It’s great for places where the switch impedes the ball’s travel or is difficult to adjust. MRS replaces the entire switch mechanism—microswitch and wire actuator. You just snip off the old switch and splice in the MRS. The ball rolls over the slot where the switch would have been and MRS senses it just as accurately as the old switch would have. They’ve got several different types of switches, so they might have some that could replace all the switches in the skill shot area.

I used a different style of MRS one of the ramps on my Elvira and made a video about it.

Hit me up if you need our help!

Matt
M&M Creations
"we don't touch your balls..."

Great video.
This sounds like a plan; thanks for the suggestion!

I'll be in touch!

Cam somebody tell me the value of the capacitors on the cab flipper switches please?

.1 uf

Tnx!

Anyone have any issue on a CPR with the sling shot kicker arms touching the wood at the opening of the PF?

I installed the pivot in the same location in relation to the old PF. The arms are dead center. I used the A-5103 plunger link assy per parts manual. A-7986 arm as per manual. I tried old pivot and the new with same result. I compared the coil brackets side by side and they too are the same. I'm stumped. My only hope is that if I go with a 2-1/8 plunger versus the oem 2 inch will take out the extra travel of the arm which seems excessive. Oh, I also measure the holes and they are 1 inch long on both PF's.

If you post a pic of exactly what you're looking at from the bottom, I'll get a shot of mine (original) for comparison for you. I haven't yet done the restore/PF swap on mine...

Jaz

Thanks. At work until after midnight so will have to be tomorrow for pics. I went ahead an ordered a 2 and 1/8 inch plunger to reduce the travel of the arm. We'll see. It should work. The 5103 is a 2 inch. I just can't wrap my head around why the new parts of the exact replacement are doing this. Installed the pivot within a 32nd of an inch of where it was on old pf.