Just in case anybody is interested, a couple reasonably priced keyfobs came up on ebay....

ebay.com link: Williams Cyclone Pinball Game Promotional Plastic Wind Original 1988

ebay.com link: Williams Cyclone Pinball Game Promotional Plastic Clown Original 1988

Could someone please send or post me a pic of connections in back box ....i got a machine with head removed but put it back but have a few extra connectors for some reason.
Thanks

Please!

Sorry, just saw this. Been bust shoveling snow. Will take pics now.

Here ya go, I'll keep the machine pulled out in case you need any more pics our have a specific question.

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What a guy!

I bought an ArcadeArts shadow box. I'm usually not a fan of this sort of custom art thing because the artistic style of the thing never matches the game it's supposed to be paired with. But I like lastlight's style. It isn't an exact copy, but it's whimsical enough to fit right in. I'll probably hang it on the wall beside the game.

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Hey Jay or anyone else that can answer this, in reference to the pics you just posted of the connections in the back box. In the first photo, what does the fuse connect to in the bottom right corner that has alligator clips on it? Someone bypassed my fuse with an alligator clip jumper and just wondered if I should be worried about that.

I can't imagine that's a good thing, even for diagnostic purposes--let alone for long-term use. Here's some info on other issues people have had with the F7 fuse:

https://groups.google.com/g/rec.games.pinball/c/ZUNND4axif8

Obviously they're talking Taxi on that post, but Cyclone operates very similarly, just with different functions tied to some of the fuses.

I'd try putting in the correct fuse and see what happens. If it blows, start researching. You don't want to permanently jumper over a fuse--it's there for a reason. Post again if it blows and we can start going down the rabbit hole.

Good find! Yup, I agree, definitely wouldn't want that being a permanent fix. Never know, maybe the previous owner just didn't have the correct fuse on hand.

Jordan & Jay or anyone else, I am not referring to the fuse on the driver board (F7). If you look above at the first picture, I am talking about the fuse that is all by itself on the side of the backbox. In the above picture it has an alligator clip on it (bottom right corner). I cant figure out what it even goes too, my guess is the display board. I took out the fuse last night to take a look at replacing it but Im not even sure the previous owner had the correct fuse in it since it blew. I assume that is why they put on a jumper. The manual isnt clear one bit on what this goes to. It does say next to it 8 amp but thats it. I dont know if it is supposed to be slow blow or the voltage. Please help me if you know.

8A should more than likely correspond to the fusing for the bridges.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6/page/2#post-945742

That 'mod' shouldn't need to be done for a Cyclone because it should already be there, done by the factory. Is that what this is? Does it connect to the bridge?

Scrolling up for pics, one sec...

Mine just showed up in the mail. Very cool, love it!

Thank you very much ....these are perfect. Will have to see what went wrong on my end now lol

Got it figured out
Turns out slack on one of the connectors was tangled so didn't reach where it should go and the other connector must of been redone and in 2 pieces.
Thanks again

I just joined the Cyclone club by purchasing it as my first pin yesterday. It has been HUO since 2008, and in climate controlled storage for the last three years. It seems to be in very good shape, but does need to be cleaned and rubbers replaced. It plays 100% so far as I can tell (Ferris wheel works, Mystery Wheel works, etc.)

A few things that I wanted to get everyone's thoughts on:

1) The boards look to be in very good shape. Some tabs for the battery holder are broken, which at least saved it from battery damage. I'm assuming that I can solder in the remote battery holder without removing the whole board? It has Rev 1 U21 and U22 sound ROMs, and Rev 5 U26 and U27 game ROMs, which I'm assuming is okay?

2) It appears to have been built for Germany, as it has Deutsch stickers on the back, a German coin door, and a 220 power supply. The big transformer says 115V on it, so I'm assuming that's okay? Also, because of no batteries, I have to set it to English and it gets unplugged).

3) The playfield has full Mylar, and has some lifting at the Comet entrance, the base of the clown's chin, and a few other places. I plan to leave it.

4) The serial number is "564 I132859". Does this tell me anything about where it falls in the 9,400 games made?

Thanks, I look forward to learning more about maintenance in the coming weeks!
-Kyle

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Congrats & welcome!
All transformers are 115v, there are components in the silver box that steps down the 220v to 115v for Europe. Those components have to be converted on games that are reimported back here.

Also, yes, if you're savvy with a soldering iron, its totally possible to solder a remote battery holder without removing the P/D board. The wires are soldered where the 2 tabs are missing, so I assume someone had one on there before. Do I need to tell you to have the game turned off when doing so??

Congrats and welcome!

If you're going to be soldering on the board, you might want to consider going the NVRAM route...

https://www.pinitech.com/products/6264_nvram.php

Thanks all. It looks like my U25 is already socketed?! Would that make the NVRAM 6116 plug and play?

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Wow, that's lucky. Should work fine. Gotta wonder if it had the NVRAM at one point, but they moved it to another game.

Picked up a "project" cyclone over the weekend! Cab is solid, playfield has seen better days, boards look clean, and game powers on and what I can test seems to be working properly. Included in my deal was the following:
New clear coated playfield (cleared by HEP I'm told)
New, legs, side rails
New plastics set, star posts, misc plastics
New starship fantasy replacement ramps
LED kit
Rotten dog score display
Cabinet stencil kit
New translite
Basically everything I would need to do a complete restore. The topside of the playfield was already torn down, so I have a box of metal parts to figure out how to reassemble. It's the first time I've ever attempted anything on this scale, and honestly, I'm a bit nervous. But, happy to join the club, and I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions

Awesome Scribbles! Sounds like a fun project. I'd be nervous as hell!!! Only one way to learn though.

Bright side is, Cyclone is hands down the easiest game on earth to "figure out" how to reassemble! Easiest to PF swap, etc. So you picked the perfect game to learn on! If I had to pick any PF to reassemble from a slab of lumber and a box of parts, blindfolded... I'd pick Cyclone!

Hmmm, now you're making it tempting to pick up a new playfield. Mine current one isn't bad at all though.

Well, that's great news!!

Fuse questions....
on the aux power driver bd, F2A and F2C aren’t used, correct?

Also, in the picture I attached, why would the previous owner disconnect the 8 amp on the wall? And I’m assuming the two blue wires hooked together laying there are supposed to be attached to that holder.

I’m installing Xpin boards and want to fix things that I’m running into along the way.

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I will give you all the short version. I had a Cyclone and sold it with the sale of my house. Now I can't find one anywhere. Pins are not too easy to find around here anyway, but they do come up.

There is one in town here I went to look at yesterday and it plays okay, but has been well played. It is very dirty and the cabinet is beat up pretty bad. There are several spots where the veneer is coming off and starting to peel up. The paint is also okay......just okay. I guess I would score the cabinet a 4 or 5 our of 10.

The PF is good and will clean up nicely I am sure. HE is asking 2800 for it basically. I just don't think that is a good price for the condition that is in. But then again, seems like I haven't seen one around here for several years......Thoughts?

I just paid 3k for mine, but it came with everything I need to do a complete restore, including a brand new playfield. See my post above (#1071) for details. I think your deal is a bit steep.

I agree, sounds a bit steep. Comes down to supply and demand though. Personally I'd either offer a good amount lower or just wait until the right one comes along. I've watched a bunch of machines go by, and patience has always paid off. Of course there are a lot more machines around these parts, so your mileage may vary.

That sounds like a pretty sweet deal Scribbles!

Thanks for the insight guys. I agree that patience will surely pay off. I don't mind driving for a good one. It is by far my kindred spirit pinball machine. I asked about taking less and he does not want to budge. He is a distributor and jacks up the price.....again, if it was even clean and ready, I might consider it.

I think so as well. I figure just there is around $1600 worth of replacement parts just counting the major stuff. Probably a couple hundred worth of small parts I'm not even remembering. Now I gotta get busy and get this thing restored. I assume most people start by stripping the cabinet of parts and do cabinet work first.

Can you post a pic of your aux driver board? Also I would put that fuse back in line on those 2 blue wires.

Yeah, I’m going to get that in line fuse hooked up. I got clarification on the aux board fuse situation.

I just love finding interesting vendor “hacks” on the old games....

I paid 3k for mine. But it came with a police force and Addams family for free at that price. All non working and the seller just wanted them gone. Fixed up and sold the police force and Addams. Now cyclone is due for attention and a playfield swap now that I got the boards back from repair.

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Same question as KNG1 above. My U25 appears to be socketed. No batteries in holder. Is this an NVRAM chip? Also, are my ROMs the most up to date?

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ROMS appear to be the latest version. Do you lose your high scores and settings when you turn your game off? If not, then that must be NVRAM.

Thanks! Good to know on the ROMs. I just went ahead and ordered a new NVRAM since they're cheap, and I cant really play the game to test anything right now.

Edit: I ordered a 6116 NVRAM. Looks like I may actually need a 6264?? The info I'm finding online is a bit confusing. Any help is appreciated.

Always a challenge trying to make a Universal Board. For those who purchase the XPin XP-WMS12247 board, make sure to download the install sheet. The F2A and F2C fuses were not on the early revisions of the WMS board. I did mount some jumpers on the board so you didn't need to worry about the fuses, but those later games you need to cut those jumpers and install proper sized fuses.

Designing boards for these old games leads to a lot of detective work to make them the best I can.

In Feb 2017, I sold my restored Cyclone (Full playfield swap and etc, XPIN power supply, led display- I did the work). Was extremely nice. Solid it to a guy in Dallas, and he then flipped it 3 months later. Wondering if one of you Dallas Cyclone members has my old machine. How will you know? Under the playfiled, right corner you should see my signature. Plus i lit the Dracula hole. If you have my old machine, let me know. Would love to know whom has it. If your open to a sale, i have someone in Houston whom might be interested.

Progress on the cabinet finally. It was NASTY inside. Btw, does anyone know of a source for the rollover switches on the inlanes and outlanes? The part # listed in my manual doesn't seem to exist. Ive found some that I think will work, but I'd like exact replacements if available. Ive looked everywhere.

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Just purchased both of them and a promotional sticker. He also has some other pinball related keyfobs available.
Thanks for the heads up as they don't come up that often.

Regards,
MikeS

The aux board may just have one bad diode, back feeding the kicker. Check the big diodes w meter, you may be able to fix it for a few cents.

These should work...
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-17813-1&Category_Code=ROL

Thats exactly the one I was thinking about using. I never did find an exact part # or replacement. I guess its discontinued and this switch is its replacement maybe?

When I restored my Cyclone, used this exact switch. It fit and worked fine. I could not tell the difference. Never saw a cross-reference or replacement part number.

I've got some ordered. Someone did me the favor of absolutely mangling the right in and out lane switches on mine. I'm going to build my home made rotisseries this weekend, and hopefully lay into this swap soon.

Awesome. Post some pics of your swap, and if you get stuck ....post. I should still have pics of my swap 5 years ago, if you have an issues.

Will do, thanks a ton!

Ok, decision time. The new playfield that came as part of my package deal cyclone purchase has started to develop some issues. I suspect that due to being in storage for so long (years), then coming into my home with gas heat, has caused some inserts to begin to raise ever so slightly. I've already put down a few pieces of mylar on a some spots. The topside of the.playfield is just barely populated right now. I'm wondering if I should lay down a playfield protector now while the playfield is disassembled to prevent wear on the inserts. They're only raised about 1/64" inch or so, but you can feel them. Normally I dont like protectors, but I'm really concerned about the ball hitting those raised edges (albeit slightly) and causing wear. Opinions for or against please???

If it were me, i'd level the inserts, then apply a full protector... just my opinion.