I’m a new Motordome owner and am reading through several threads, including this one. Noticed the discussion on the Bally Midway 7533 DAC Failures. Does my Motordome C30 capacitor from my soundboard need to be removed? If it hasn’t affected anything this long after the notice does it still apply?

I think this is C30
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Full soundboard
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Thank you

Thank you. Can I just use wire cutters and snip it out (obviously power is off)? I'm not at the point of being comfortable soldering a board. Any problems leaving the solder and base of the wire behind?

Thank you

Thank you both! The deed has been done. Both wires snipped and worries of excess voltage discharge have dissipated

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On a side note, is there any other board work that is recommended for the 6803 boards? I didn’t see anything else applicable to Motordome.

Motordome Boards:

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Prior to the NVRAM mod
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Prior to the C30 capacitor trim
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Pinitech NVRAM mod
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Thank you! I’ll get on that label ASAP and check the voltages, too. Do you keep the display voltage at 180 even if you replace the plasma displays with LEDs?

Is there a recommended capacitor kit for the power supply board?

On a side note, on the game board, what is going on with this capacitor? I just found it odd looking, like it was too big for the space.

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Thank you so much for these recommendations. I ordered a pair of these LED displays: https://www.thepinballwizard.net/x-pin-products/bally/midway-6803-display-orange-xp-bly6803-o/ I thought I read that the LED displays need the higher voltage line, but only consume about 5V. Not sure if that makes sense, or if I was reading something about old LED technology. If I use these displays, would it still be okay to leave the FU2 fuse and replace the C2 capacitor, just to make sure the board is future-proofed?

Is there a recommended capacitor kit for the power board? Can you get more robust capacitors for longevity's sake?

For the incorrect resistor (thank you for the correction) on my control board (sorry I called it a game board), I'm struggling to identify the correct resistor to buy and replace it with. I was trying to look at: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/3/33/Controlmod.pdf Do you think the capacitor directly below it should also be replaced? It looks like it got jostled at some point.

Understood. I'll install the LEDs when they come in, pull FU2, and report back. The plasmas work great, but I prefer using less power and having a system that'll have less risks of having important parts failing.

If I find a 6803 kit, I'll utilize the C2 capacitor

Is the appropriate resistor for R133 and R135 (1.2K resistor 1/4W): https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/R025W1.2K and this one: https://www.thepinballwizard.net/resistors/1.2k-ohm-1/4w-5-resistor-carbon-film/? I don't see the brown color, but everything else matches up.

I think vid1900 mentioned these once: https://probemaster.com/speedy-bend-resistor-lead-forming-tool/ Do I need a kit for properly bending resistors and capacitors?

What a glorious file! Thank you @inkochnito. I can read it... sort of (learning the schematics)

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Leon_Borre_Bally_6803_repair

Where it says “The schematic....”

Brings you here: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:Controlmod.pdf

On my Motordome, I replaced all the old fuses with new ones and checked continuity on both new and old. All new fuses were good (thanks PinballLife). All new fuses are correct type and rating… several of the old ones were incorrect (one or more were even lower amps than required). On the old fuses I found out one of the fuses was actually bad (FU6 (G.I. backbox) = 15 amp fast-blo). It was either always bad or maybe went bad when I pulled it out (used a fuse remover tool, though). What lights are G.I. backbox?

Started the game up and played a bit. Notice zero changes from the old fuses (shucks, I was hopeful). Got the million shot lit, tried to get it a few times and then the table game stops. General illumination and displays stay lit, but the solenoids are dead. A brief smell of smoke hits the air. I poke around and eventually find the 1 Amp solenoid fuse is blown. So what are the next steps?

I think this solenoid is a strong suspect and should be replaced ASAP.

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Would a swollen coil be the reason for a fuse blowing?

If wiring is still attached on any coils, but you can wiggle part of a strand, could that cause this? Should I just re-solder anything suspect so it’ll be easier to pinpoint issues?

Just trying to figure out if bad soldering or a bad coil could cause this, or do I need to find something wrong with another component? What I find interesting is changing the fuses and correcting them seems to elevate a pre-existing issue and causes the solenoid fuse to blow.

Side note, there’s a fuse that needs to be installed on this table underneath for GI, but it hasn’t been done yet. I’m new, so need to go slow and get help with first steps first. Thank you

Additional question, could a bad diode be the reason a solenoid fuse pops?

Edit:
Found M9’s resistor (right?) is burnt up. I believe this is from the same time the playfield solenoid fuse popped. Trying to put together an order on Mouser for a bundle of the common 6803 PCB parts I’ll need to have on hand. Did anyone ever do that?
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Solder isn’t touching, but I’m going to rebuild that solenoid. The whole thing seems to be breaking down, but I’d like to know how to prove it’s the issue to you experts It moves freely and fires fine, but the coil is loose and you can tell the mech isn’t at all tight.

Voltages are hard to pinpoint for me now. Since the game freaks out without the 1 amp solenoid fuse, I’d rather bullet-proof what I can on the boards. When things were working, I was just getting used to testing voltages and some were correct but some were off. Originally, I figured I should correct the fuses before reporting in. The only other issues are some weird wiring surrounding the flash lamps and the right slingshot not firing.

I think J8 is for the sling shot solenoids, but I could be wrong. Orange and blue is for the right side, I think:
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How do you test the transistors on the board that affect the solenoids for the slingshot (and other solenoids)? I think I read you could test them while in the board with the power off?

Should transistors be replaced with the same rating, or can they be higher?

Thank you

Thanks for sharing the issue and your fix. Sounds like the infamous Bally keypad strikes again

Sweet work! Just stick that setup in a backbox, pick a playfield, and update that collection page

Chris would be one person a lot of PinSiders would recommend for you:

http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact/

Looks like CPR did the Motordome plastics set. It even has the U everyone is missing!

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/motordome-plastics/

Noticed they even did a topper, which looks like it matches the back glass nicely. Anyone else think so?

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-toppers/motordome-topper/

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This is a direct quote from @bigal56, who has been an amazing resource for helping me get my Motordome in tip top shape:

“Bally switched over to a system of switched lighting called bi-phase. Used in the 6803 games, this allowed a single lamp driver SCR to control 2 different lamps. This requires all switched lamps to have a diode in series. Flashers and GI lights were not required to have diodes.

Use non ghosting bulbs for switched lamps to avoid having to replace the lamp driver board as regular LEDs can flicker…GI lights don't need to be NG but if your going to order a bunch of LEDs just stick with NG all around.”

I hope that helps. It really helped my head grasp the electronics of the lighting in 6803, especially Motordome.

Has anyone else tried 6.3v OpMax bulbs from Comet in their 6803?

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/opmax-bulbs

I put them in all my GI for Motordome. I noticed that the GI bulb by the left upper flipper runs very hot to the touch. Do these bulbs run hot or did I mess something up? Installed a new 1N4007 diode and replaced the socket just in case. Same issue.

Thank you

Edit: Added a picture. I realized that maybe this socket doesn’t need a diode (right?) or maybe it’s not technically GI (this idea is getting me tripped up).

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Anyone with a Motordome willing to snap a picture of the light socket underneath their upper left flipper plastic? If you use Titan rubber caps for posts it’ll take you two seconds

Edit: Was provided the explanation that the upper left flipper lamp and both upper right saucer lamps in Motordome need the diodes as they are switched lamps, not GI, but also not flashers. We'll assume I installed the diode incorrectly. Will edit once I replace the socket and see if the LED gets hot. Thanks Al!

Big thanks to BigAl56 for pushing me through to get Motordome’s upper left switch lamp “flasher” corrected. Lack of a properly soldered diode caused the lamp to be getting too much juice and never fully switch off (just went from very bright down to bright and back).

This style wedge socket was much easier to adhere the diode to than the stock bulb I was working with: https://www.pinballlife.com/miniature-wedge-base-2-lead-socket-with-rear-mounting-bracket.html

You’re the man Al!

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What are you saying about my classy cards???

I will have to get some decent cardstock to print them out - thank you

I really wanted ralphwiggum to make some fun 3D printed cards, but I'm afraid Motordome isn't on the top of many lists

Edit: Thanks again, Peter! Went with the orange card stock. Still hoping for the ralphwiggum treatment someday.

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Are they 1” tall? Maybe this:

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-1-metal-post-with-groove.html

Yes, time for a new speaker

Useful archive listing for photo reference: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/115845

From: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive?s=1s=1&ad_machine_key=227#results

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Just want to ask a dumbass question, but you brought this to @Dumbass's attention, right?

Just making sure you brought the issues up to him, instead of to us first.

Can you see the beams broken with your camera? Sorry, can't open your links.

Awesome job! Looks great Have any underside photos?

CPR has the Motordome plastics set. If I was them, I'd sell just this piece but for a premium, instead of making people buy the whole set when just one piece is likely needed.

You can always buy the whole set and then sell the rest. Pinside and eBay move parts.

Link: https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/motordome-plastics/

It's a very nice set and very well done.

They’re for the TURBO BOOSTER STAAATTTIIIONNN

Turbo Booster Staaatttiiionnnn

Lamps

Plastic

One of the coolest backboards in all of pinball

Is your Turbo Booster Station lamp panel working? Do you have a photo of how your Turbo Booster Station is wired? When I got Motordome it wasn't working, but eventually fixed it and did LEDs to space out the lamps like pictured above and lower the current being pulled.

I see it now. Your field kit wire is on the left and your stock White-Blue wire is on the right. My game didn't have the extra fuse kit installed. Didn't install it because opted to go for LEDs to lower the current and decrease the load going across the transistors. This led to zero issues.

Field Kit Installed

There are 12 flashers, or "Brite Lights" in Motordome. 3 on the back board and 9 underneath the rider's visor and shoulder pads. One of the visor's will likely be in the middle of nowhere with the automotive bulb burning the wood. These should all be turned into LEDs. The field installation kit is essentially just regulating the current, through the additional fuse and high wattage resistor, but the original bulbs will still be very hot even if everything is working correctly.

The 4 sets of 3 Brite Lights each run on a 43V circuit, so if you can do 3 13V bulbs you're close enough for the bulb to work correctly and not melt.

Original Schematic

Example of updated Brite Lights under the playfield with LEDs and new orientation

Lamps Updated

note: ignore the numbers, they were game specific

If you wanted to skip the field kit, you could go LED and put the original yellow line back into play. One side of the circuit will be the yellow wire and other other is the striped coil ground wire.

Utilized these sockets and bulbs:

9 of these:
https://www.pinballlife.com/bayonet-base-2-lead-socket-with-long-mounting-bracket-for-89-bulbs.html

9 of these:
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/8smd-flashers?variant=12386989146156

And 3 of these:
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/8smd-flex-flashers

I tried to document some of this here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/motordome-playing-field-questions

Credit to BigAl56 for schooling me