Can you point me to the page where you found the link to this file?
I can't seem to find it.

Understood. I'll install the LEDs when they come in, pull FU2, and report back. The plasmas work great, but I prefer using less power and having a system that'll have less risks of having important parts failing.

If I find a 6803 kit, I'll utilize the C2 capacitor

Is the appropriate resistor for R133 and R135 (1.2K resistor 1/4W): https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/R025W1.2K and this one: https://www.thepinballwizard.net/resistors/1.2k-ohm-1/4w-5-resistor-carbon-film/? I don't see the brown color, but everything else matches up.

I think vid1900 mentioned these once: https://probemaster.com/speedy-bend-resistor-lead-forming-tool/ Do I need a kit for properly bending resistors and capacitors?

What a glorious file! Thank you Inkochnito. I can read it... sort of (learning the schematics)

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Leon_Borre_Bally_6803_repair

Where it says “The schematic....”

Brings you here: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:Controlmod.pdf

Thanks for the link.
I'll see what I can do.

On my Motordome, I replaced all the old fuses with new ones and checked continuity on both new and old. All new fuses were good (thanks PinballLife). All new fuses are correct type and rating… several of the old ones were incorrect (one or more were even lower amps than required). On the old fuses I found out one of the fuses was actually bad (FU6 (G.I. backbox) = 15 amp fast-blo). It was either always bad or maybe went bad when I pulled it out (used a fuse remover tool, though). What lights are G.I. backbox?

Started the game up and played a bit. Notice zero changes from the old fuses (shucks, I was hopeful). Got the million shot lit, tried to get it a few times and then the table game stops. General illumination and displays stay lit, but the solenoids are dead. A brief smell of smoke hits the air. I poke around and eventually find the 1 Amp solenoid fuse is blown. So what are the next steps?

I think this solenoid is a strong suspect and should be replaced ASAP.

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Would a swollen coil be the reason for a fuse blowing?

If wiring is still attached on any coils, but you can wiggle part of a strand, could that cause this? Should I just re-solder anything suspect so it’ll be easier to pinpoint issues?

Just trying to figure out if bad soldering or a bad coil could cause this, or do I need to find something wrong with another component? What I find interesting is changing the fuses and correcting them seems to elevate a pre-existing issue and causes the solenoid fuse to blow.

Side note, there’s a fuse that needs to be installed on this table underneath for GI, but it hasn’t been done yet. I’m new, so need to go slow and get help with first steps first. Thank you

Additional question, could a bad diode be the reason a solenoid fuse pops?

Edit:
Found M9’s resistor (right?) is burnt up. I believe this is from the same time the playfield solenoid fuse popped. Trying to put together an order on Mouser for a bundle of the common 6803 PCB parts I’ll need to have on hand. Did anyone ever do that?
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That solder job looks rough. The pic looks like there is a bit of solder close to the other pin. But no burn mark so it’s probably not it. Just my observation.

Does the solenoid move freely? Can you replicate if you hold the flipper button? How are the voltages on the board? Is there anything else that is moving around and shorting out?

Solder isn’t touching, but I’m going to rebuild that solenoid. The whole thing seems to be breaking down, but I’d like to know how to prove it’s the issue to you experts It moves freely and fires fine, but the coil is loose and you can tell the mech isn’t at all tight.

Voltages are hard to pinpoint for me now. Since the game freaks out without the 1 amp solenoid fuse, I’d rather bullet-proof what I can on the boards. When things were working, I was just getting used to testing voltages and some were correct but some were off. Originally, I figured I should correct the fuses before reporting in. The only other issues are some weird wiring surrounding the flash lamps and the right slingshot not firing.

I think J8 is for the sling shot solenoids, but I could be wrong. Orange and blue is for the right side, I think:
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How do you test the transistors on the board that affect the solenoids for the slingshot (and other solenoids)? I think I read you could test them while in the board with the power off?

Should transistors be replaced with the same rating, or can they be higher?

Thank you

I'm having a problem on my Eight Ball Champ, when I hit all of the E-I-G-H-T targets to extinguish/collect the extra ball. The extra ball light goes out, but the same player shoots again lite will not lite. When the ball drains, the machine will advance to the next ball in play. Also the extra ball doesn't lite in attract mode like it does in virtual pinball. The EB lite will work with lamp test running.

it used to work fine, I'm guessing until around the time I change the battery. I couldn't find how to factory reset for this version board, but I left the batteries out for 2 days or so. And even with the system reset to factory, Presumably. Still no Extra ball awarded. I even checked with a virtual pinball table and entered the same values.

Data in Registers . 32=3, 33=1, 34=0, 35=4, 36-37=0, 38=1, 39=0, 40=0, 41=2, 42=55, 43-50=01, 51=0. Please help, Thanks! Glenn

Uggg.... Register 25 "Playfield specials feature", was 00(No award). Thanks!

Thanks for sharing the issue and your fix. Sounds like the infamous Bally keypad strikes again

I do not own an official 6803 game, but I've made a 6803 test rig for myself.
To test the 6803 mpu input/output (switches, lamps, solenoids, sound, display), the sound boards and power supply.
I had 5 mpu boards that needed fixing and 3 power supply boards.
Recently a display set and sound board came into my possesion to complete the board set.
I already had a wire bundle or two from some other games which were parted out.
I build the test board from scratch and learned from some misstakes I made in the wiring.
Does this make me a member of the club?

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You are absolutely a member. Without a game you've already provided a ton of help and documentation to the community. Thank you

Sweet work! Just stick that setup in a backbox, pick a playfield, and update that collection page

Wow! Does anyone in America fix 6803 boards? I need my power supply rebuild, a soundboard rebuild and 2 MPUs worked on. These are in my arcade currently, so I prefer to have a professional go through them to make sure they can handle being on 12 hours a day 363 days out of the year.

Chris would be one person a lot of PinSiders would recommend for you:

http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact/

Alot of people do. What is it you're looking to have done and more importantly, why? Power supply, Something wrong or just bulletproofing? Are the sound boards working or dead and what sound boards. What are the MPUs doing? is there a specific problem or are they just nor booting and any acid damage?

Not trying to sound like I'm picking on you, but your vague decsriptions would have me telling that person I need the whole game here then as I don't know if its board or game related. I find the 6803 a very robust board set and its interesting to see the direction bally was going. Not saying it's better then system 11 but the a/b lamp matrix and the individual flash lamp fuses would have saved more then a couple playfield inserts in a few system 11's (Looking at you Transporter the Rescue). The 6803 Pinwiki does a pretty good job walking you thru problems and solutions. the sound card section specifically talks about the DAC failures and how to bullet proof. At the very least, helping narrow down the problems will give your repair person a better idea of cost to you.

The high voltage regulator is bad on the PS causing the display to strobe at the duty cycle.
(Party animal)

The soundboard, at some point before I got it, something must have been going bad, there’s a couple cooked components (Lady Luck)

Truck Stop uses a 6803 MPU and it has severe acid damage so I stole the MPU from City Slicker for the time being. The acid damage original was booting and playing until I gave it a bath to neutralize the acid, that finally broke whatever weak connection it had.

I have a spare MPU that I wanted fixed preemptively in case something else goes back.

So it’s all for different machines, one of everything is broken!
I’ve asked a few board repair people and they all said they don’t work on 6803s. Doesn’t Chris Hibler have a 6 month backlog? I was hoping to find someone would could work on them within 2 months. I can afford some downtime, but 6 months at the arcade won’t fly.

I have used Chris and Coin Op Cauldron with great results.

https://www.coinopcauldron.com/brepairs.html

My hardbody has been a trusted game for a while (and so surprisingly fun!).
In a tournament it suddenly blew the fu1 5A fuse.
We have been trying to find a short, no luck.
Does anyone have any suggestions?

It could be a bad bridge rectifier BR1.
Easy to check with a DMM on diode setting.

You do have to take the board out of the game.

Hey guys,

I have an Escape From the Lost World and want to swap out the left flipper coil for something less powerful. I still have the stock yellow "A 24-570 / 34-3600" and it has way too much power even with the EOS switch adjusted as much as possible. A coil with literally half the power would be adequate since there are no ramps and all targets are in the middle 3rd of the playfield. Which coil number (or sleeve color) should I consider?

Thanks!

Standard Bally flipper coil. AQ 25-500/34-4500

I wound up joining this club with an EFTLW today. What a fun little game!

I was tooling around with a copy of the ROMs yesterday and made a bit of an interesting discovery. All of the sound data (at least for this game) is stored as plain uncompressed mono unsigned 8 bit PCM, with a sample rate of about 4500hz. You can directly open the raw files in a sound editor and play back every piece of audio in the game... and I assume record your own sounds over them. In the image below, I have both the U12 and U13 images open in an Audacity project; the highlighted snippet in the bottom track is the 'CAN YOU ESCAPE' call out.

I was wondering if anyone here had tried doing this and burning a custom sound ROM for their 6803 game? A quick Google search turns up nothing. I'm assuming it's harmless, but I'm rather worried about breaking my brand-new (to me) game.

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You might have to keep the samples the same length but I don't think you could break the game trying... It just wouldn't work.

The samples would definitely have to be the same length, unless you changed the data pointers. I think those are part of the first section of the first sound ROM - trying to play that back just results in random static.

Well it finally happened

I shipped out my boards and UPS lost them. I’m pretty devastated.

They lost my
•Truck Stop MPU
•Lady Luck Cheap Squeak
And •Party Animal Power Supply

Where is the best place to get replacements? I haven’t seen replacement MPUs and PS’s for 6803

It appears Weebly has an mpu replacement:

https://nvram.weebly.com/bally-6803-mpu.html

Based on the limited reading I've done, the 6803 system was somewhat based on the -35 stuff. Maybe one of those power supplies are compatible?

I just checked and it appears they have a replacement for the cheap squeak too.

Weebly (barakandl) also makes the 6803 power supply board: https://nvram.weebly.com/bally-6803-power-supply.html

This was recently posted locally. Quite a project!

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Probably just a fuse and a 2x4

They had the exact same game in California that went for over $1000.00 dollars...
It was ridiculous.

Still has the auction sticker, where is that from?

Captains Auction. They had three Bally Party Animals at the auction.
Two where "decent" so to speak... but this one was total parts game..
Everyone was biding online... Hardly nobody was there to see what they where biding on.

Yep it’s a Captains warehouse sticker.

Knowing how captains describes games I’m sure the buyer was very disappointed in this.

Was it in pieces at the auction? Was this from the Banning auction?

The game was presented as you see it with the backbox down...
I could left it up and see the damage. No black strap.
No Banning as far as I know.

Do you guys think it’s worth that in parts?

Possibly, depending on if the boards are in repairable condition or not.

Looks like CPR did the Motordome plastics set. It even has the U everyone is missing!

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-plastics/motordome-plastics/

Noticed they even did a topper, which looks like it matches the back glass nicely. Anyone else think so?

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-toppers/motordome-topper/

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Party Animal is a great game and with $400 and some wood working skills you’d be very happy. As long as the playfield wasn’t water damaged, it’s fine.

You'd probably need electronics skills too, judging from the state of the boards. Not to discourage anyone from bringing a pin back to life - just saying.

As someone helpfully linked above, you can buy all new boards at Weebly, if need be. Offer $200 for the Party Animal, buy $500 worth of boards, reinforce or replace the cabinet and you’ll still be into it for less than the current average price. Playfield shows heavy wear in the normal spots, but for what it is, who cares.

If you want a fun, simple and challenging player, Party Animal has a lot of bang for the buck. Plays a lot like Dr. Dude in my opinion.

Got it for $300.

It’s rough rough but I love a challenge and basket case projects.

Both displays look trashed.

The MPU is going to need header work with how the harness is soldered directly to the board.

Check out the service outlet, it’s a UK game. It’s got the Europe cord on it as well.

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About to finally join the club, had picked up a Special Force and passed it along - not a game I enjoyed, but just plunked down the money for an Atlantis and should be aqua-flipping in about 3 weeks.

Thanks for this group!

Finally, congratulations ...much better price than at the auction. I assume
you did not have to pay a buyers premium and such.

That looks like a schuko socket so not a UK game, but maybe European origin. Definitely worse than mine but they are fun to get going and make nice again - good luck...

Congrats, that's an awesome pickup! Always nice to see some resurrect something that isn't a AAA WPC or whatnot.

I'll admit I know nothing of overseas plugs and outlets but its this one:

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I had bought it that same day it was posted, wanted to feel out the thread before posting that I got it. I know there were a couple other people emailing about it. Nope no fees or BS, $300 out the door.

I have a 8-ball champ project that I'm going to sell
Player condition cab with some side cab bondo and touch up, but playfield looks pretty good
Located in South Chicago burbs
Just looking to break even, paid 1000 a year ago, GI light up but no displays and would not start a game when I bought it.
Never even opened it up to look into it, not a 6803 guy...just want the garage space back.
DM me if interested and I can send some pics
Thanks GD

SOS Pinball has the frog and back plastic if you need it. Just ordered a set for mine: https://sos-pinball.com/en/62-decors-flipper-party-animal-plastic-pinball.html