There is a file on my website to print new score and instruction cards for Motordome.
Looks a lot better than the old yellowed cards.
Look in the Bally Section.
http://www.inkochnito.nl

Peter

What are you saying about my classy cards???

I will have to get some decent cardstock to print them out - thank you

I really wanted ralphwiggum to make some fun 3D printed cards, but I'm afraid Motordome isn't on the top of many lists

Edit: Thanks again, Peter! Went with the orange card stock. Still hoping for the ralphwiggum treatment someday.

IMG_8418 (resized).jpeg

I have a Bally Beat the Clock with a missing plastic- (the plastic to the side of the upper right flipper) I'm assuming the plastic is unobtanium, but is there an owner out there that can get me a good scan of it? I'd like to reproduce it if at all possible. Thanks!

Hello all,
I seem to be having trouble finding the following two posts for a BTC. They are missing and I can't seem to find part numbers in the parts catalogs for 1986 or other years. Anyone have any idea what the part numbers were or if there are comparable posts still available? TIA for any help.

btc2 (resized).jpg

Are they 1” tall? Maybe this:

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-1-metal-post-with-groove.html

I don't have either one, but it does appear they should be about 1" tall. They must have a post running through the middle of them as well.

The PBL ones look like they might be a tad short. The Bally ones measure 1 1/8".

Marco sells some that appear to be 1 1/4" . I wonder if that's closer to correct?

Nickel Post #0360-00733-00XF
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4435

Hello everyone hoping to get some simple answers on these. Got a basket case hardbody that was torn to bits. This is my first bally got a bunch of parts on the way and have begun a small resto.

IMG_0171 (resized).jpeg
Are these wires always cut like this? This goes to the mpu. Can not see where the other end would be.

IMG_0172 (resized).jpeg
Do the 3 ground wires in the next picture go to this?
IMG_0173 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0174 (resized).jpeg
Not sure where this ground strap in the head goes.

IMG_0181 (resized).jpeg
Lastly are these wires normally like this? No speaker?

Appreciate it guys i been wanting this machine for years.

Yes, the three grounds go to the ground clip in your photo

Screenshot_20230611_161459_Chrome (resized).jpg

Answer: No.
CJ-2 [cpu Digital Display Output]
{cut strobes PA05,PA06,PA07}
-----------------------------------------

Answer: Sure.

Ok thank you. Did someone add this connector then? Pics attached.

IMG_0184 (resized).jpeg

IMG_0186 (resized).jpeg

Answer: Yes.

Yes, time for a new speaker

Useful archive listing for photo reference: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/115845

From: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive?s=1s=1&ad_machine_key=227#results

HB 1 (resized).jpg

HB 2 (resized).jpg

Hello all,
Would anyone who has a Beat the Clock be willing to scan the plastic behind the upper right flipper? I am missing this plastic and need to try and get a decal made and make a new plastic since the plastics aren't available. Be glad to pay you for your time. Thanks in advance if anyone can help.

I'm looking at picking up a Party Animal. My wife has a 2013 Honda CRV. Does anyone know:

1): Will the game fit in a CRV?
2): What are the height dimensions with the head folded down? I think I have about 33in for the game to fit in.

Embarrassingly dumb question here.... I want to re-pin the J6 on my Motordome as I'm having issues with the drop target. I have plenty of experience with early Bally, Stern etc but I've ever re-pinned one of these connectors where the wire is also locked it to the top under the black roof. What's the name of this kind of Molex so I can find a youtube on how to remove and add pin to this type?

Those are IDC (insulation displacement connectors). You slide the black protector off to the side to pull the wires out. Unfortunately this type of connector doesn't let you replace the pins though. Just replace with a normal molex of the correct .156 or .100 size.

You can buy brand new IDC connectors and the tool required to install them from marco and other places, but I'd rather have the crimp type myself if I were replacing a connector.

Thanks for the response but I'm a bit confused. I can use a .156 or .100 within this connector or I need to replace the entire connector with a different style of Molex?

IDC connectors have different terminal receptors in the housing. They don't take crimp style terminals.

As slochar says, you can get replacement whole IDC connectors that have the required terminals built in which you just punch your wires into, or switch to the crimp terminal style with appropriate housing that takes crimp terminals. 6803 control board J6 is a 0.156" pitch connector. Example crimp style components:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=86

I meant get the size that matches I don't know offhand if they were .156 or .100

Anyone know the trim size for the plastic lift trim on the bottom of the backglass for 6803 games?

Also looking for the backbox lock size if someone has that info handy!

I just picked up this good condition rare Black Belt that they only made 600. Just shopped it but I still have to LED it and fix a display.

PXL_20230628_190244754.MP (resized).jpg

PXL_20230628_190304576.MP (resized).jpg

Okay would love any advice on this, I've been getting my D&D up and running. It's nearly at 100% but the flipper hold is weak. When a ball moving fast hits the flipper it'll re-energize the high power and sort of bounce / trampoline the ball back up. Makes live catching extra difficult.

Flippers have been upgraded via Vid's guide. So everything in the flipper mech is new besides the coil.
Voltage is measuring correctly at high power and hold lugs around 45.6V or so. Tried swapping to a different brand coil stop.
Tried adjusting EOS switches.
Added .01uf 1k Volt caps to the cabinet switches and EOS switches.
Power Supply board and MPU are both new / Weebly.

Running out of ideas besides changing out the flipper coils (which are on order just in case) and open to trying anything.

Thanks in advance!

Are they new EOS switches? Try lightly filing/ sanding the contacts to make sure they are making good contact. New switches tend to have residue that prevents them from making good contact. Also confirm they are wired to the correct lugs.

The game is electrically flawed. My friend had a one, bran new from the factory,
it caught fire and melted a bunch of plastic pieces. I hope the one you have
is amended.

Some great information and a request.

I can't find the size of cam lock, or if I am missing anything from my backbox lock for my Party Animal. Can someone either take a pic, let me know if I'm missing something or tell me the size of the cam?

backbox lock (resized).jpg

Also, if anyone is looking for a backglass lift channel that fits, this one fits great if you cut off about an inch off of one end to make it narrower.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8229-1 (Sku 03-8229-1)

I was just about to take a picture of mine on a Beat the Clock and discovered my lock was also drilled and the cam is missing!
Now that I look at it, it's a different setup to your Party Animal so sorry this is no help. I assume you just need a short straight cam lock that just stops the glass from lifting. I can't find any pictures in the other 6803 game galleries.

Anyway, I'm posting the picture here for reference taken from the Beat the Clock image gallery. This cam lock suites Eight Ball Champ, Beat The Clock and Lady Lucky.
Doesn't look too hard to make by bending a long straight cam lock 90 degrees.

6803_Head_CamLock1.jpg

I'm sorry, yes. I had a bent cam, shorter one that fit perfectly, now the translite doesn't look like it's falling out.

Long shot but any chance anyone has a Opto Receiver Trough board they'd sell? It's for my D&D. Ordered one made by PindoraBox to replace my (sometimes) faulty original and it created a whole new issue, not thrilled with the quality. Seems like GPE is done too, not sure if I'm missing another retailer.

Would anybody be willing to donate a spare 6803 Opto Receiver Trough board to DumbAss for a time so he can make reproduction boards for all us 6803 folk? I have a spare transmitter but no receiver. For the good of pinball!

Hi Folks. I've got a HMM that I've recently started playing more after being in storage since I've moved, and I've got a couple questions on some things I didn't notice before. Is it normal for these 6803 games to only display the highest score (and no initials)? Also, I'm not getting any sounds with my attract mode. It doesn't matter what I set it to 0 or 1. Regular in-game sounds are fine. And I did a factory reset as well but no change.

I know these games have been engineered with "extreme cost effectiveness"... were the features perhaps eliminated? I've looked up HMM and several other 6803 games on youtube and they all seem to do display only the highest score. And nobody seems to leave them in attract very long in the videos so I never hear any attract sounds either. Can anyone confirm?

Note: I have noticed that pinwiki says that the HMM manual has an error in jumpers, that 8 should be in and 9 out... but mine has 9 in. I guess someone swapped my CPU at some point? Though it says jumpers 8/9 are general/light driver related, that doesn't seem like it would affect display or sound. I'll get to changing the jumper this week either way.

Thanks!

When in attract mode you push the left flipper button you should see the initials first then it cycles to the score for the 4 highest scores.

When in attract mode you push the right flipper button you get to see the game rules with sound.

When the game is idle no sounds are played.
Display does the same cycle over and over again.
It only changes when you hit any flipper button.

The jumper has nothing to do with displays or sound.
Jumper JW8 is for the back box lamp to be switched on and off via Q9.

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

Thanks Peter!

At least I know nothing is wrong. Not having attract sounds during idle time seemed counterintuitive. I mean you want to attract players, almost every other game I know sounds off so you can hear it and go see what the commotion is about. And I thought it was funny actually putting in your initials but never seeing them ever.

I'd wager the jumper will have something to do with the boombox topper that is missing on my game. I know the topper should be interactive with gameplay.

Still looking for boards! Originals okay too as long as they work.

Have an Eight Ball Champ. Everything works but the Squawk & Talk is doing strange things. First ball no background sounds, second ball all sounds are there... once in a while talking goes away, and sometimes it keeps saying "you scratched" over and over... other times it's perfectly fine. The game itself plays and scores properly. What's the most likely culprit here? Wiring? Grounding? Faulty chip or power? This is an odd game. I own an Eight Ball Deluxe as well. The first time I played Eight Ball Champ I thought it was horrendous lol. With all the sounds and talking going it's SO MUCH BETTER. I need to fix this issue to enjoy this machine. Thanks!

Edit: It seems like it's one of two connectors!? When I open the backbox and toggle one of the wires that goes to either the power supply or MPU the volume raises. It's hard to tell which set it is because as the place I need to wiggle them is an intersection of wires, and even if I try closer to the boards both sets of wires move. I'd have to assume it's the power supply wiring that's causing the volume to change when touching them

The current situation;

The Squawk and Talk flashes the correct number of flashes. I no longer have sound at all during a game. If I hit the rest test button on the Squawk and Talk I can hear the callouts. There was one instance where the callouts started and cut/stopped immediately and I couldn't get them to work again without turning off/on. Regardless, it's dead silence during a game.

Start with reading this section.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally_6803#Replacing_header_pins
No easy feat....

Just got my first 6803 game, a pretty solid Hardbody! Really enjoying it so far, love all the loops and flow. It’s nice to mix it up and not play a game with a 60 page rule sheet from time to time!

I’ll being doing the TCS capacitor clip later today, mines still present…and just really needs a few extra LEDs under the inserts (80% complete) and a flipper rebuild for the top right- as there is a bunch of shaft play in the bushing.

I’ll be sourcing this thread over the next few days!

IMG_1096 (resized).jpeg

One thing I couldn’t seem to find (yet) in search, are there reproduction Bally logo flipper bat caps?

I was thinking of scanning mine on my HP 4600 and trying to 3D print one….didnt have much luck googling the part from the manual.

And then, does anyone happen to know where I could source the backbox lock and plate assembly? I’ve only been able to find the later Bally systems

TIA!

Just a little update, still eventually would love to scan and remake files for the flipper bat caps….but did a very mild retrobrite on the flippers and it did a really solid job!

IMG_1336 (resized).jpeg

IMG_1337 (resized).jpeg

Anyone have any updated info on where to buy a 6803 trough opto board set for a Blackwater 100? Or maybe a parts kit to rebuild original boards?

I’m in the testing process of working on repro boards with a very talented Pinsider. Hope to have them ready soon.

If you don't want to wait: http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/6803tbs.html

Unfortunately he is no longer making boards. The only repros I've been able to find are from Pindorabox and the quality is poor.

That would be excellent! Please post when their available.

I've reached out to them with no response

After ready your previous posts I'm reluctant to place an order. Had a similar experience with brand new opto boards for my Addams Family that didn't work out.

Thanks for the response, JB

Ahh thanks for the info. I have not personally ordered from them.

If the new boards you're testing are from Dumbass then I'm sure they will be amazing! If not from Dumbass, that's ok too

I have an Eight Ball Champ. Everything works but the sound effects aren't lining up with the actions. I replaced the pots and fixed the lack of sound, but now it keeps saying "too bad, you scratched" almost every 5 seconds or "get the eight ball" or "get the 5 ball" over and over. I cut the caps off the switches as this caused a problem elsewhere but still no luck. Any idea what might be happening here? The game scores and plays fine, it's just the talking that seems off

You should check the connectors at the cpu board (J5) and the sound board (J1).
It sounds as if your sound board is missing data signals.

Thank you