Hanover, NJ
Quoted from coz6:What temp you using? Looks a little hot with those black marks
the one I think was recommended at least ten pages back now, around 600 IIRC... I try not to touch the boards.
(Topic ID: 257696)
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Addams Family, The
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Quoted from Shredder565:fixed old and new board.
Noticed two diodes in the wrong position on the new board, would explain the non working lights. will fix that tomorrow and hope for all working when my new diodes come in.
will have to clean up some of the splatter.
then work on the rest.
[quoted image]
On these boards, if you get a small bridge between solder pads, you can scrape it off with a small pick or the tip of an exacto knife.
I generally run a pick between the pads just to check my work, then test with my meter.
After you are confident in the work, test each circuit with a battery before mounting it in the game.
Quoted from Shredder565:the one I think was recommended at least ten pages back now, around 600 IIRC... I try not to touch the boards.
Your joints look way better.
Your heat looks about right.
Clean off the left over flux with rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush.
OK, 2 lights on the mansion aren't working,
three on the cousin it arn't working, one on the top isn't working.
either I'll need to redo some crimps, or replace some lights.
I'm doing the battery test next .
So, a 9 Volt red wire to the pin, and a 9 volt black wire to the metal part by the light should get it to light up?
need to get a toothbrush, but will clean the flux off monday.
High Wycombe
I would swap bulbs to test that then test continuity from the pin on the board to the lamp on the playfield. All with the game off. That way you will see if it is a wiring fault and will be able to see where without potentially stressing your boards.
Quoted from Shredder565:OK, 2 lights on the mansion aren't working,
three on the cousin it arn't working, one on the top isn't working.
either I'll need to redo some crimps, or replace some lights.
I'm doing the battery test next .
So, a 9 Volt red wire to the pin, and a 9 volt black wire to the metal part by the light should get it to light up?
need to get a toothbrush, but will clean the flux off monday.
I ALWAYS test the boards before I put them in the game.
You can get the lamps to light up by putting leads directly onto the big pads that the twist sockets rest on.
Then work your way back to the pins. You can see the traces on the board that lead to the pins.
You can also test the diodes, the voltage will only go one way thru them. If you reverse the wires, one way the lamp will light up, reversed them again and the lamp will not light.
Its fun to play with and you wont break anything as its a low voltage system.
This way, you KNOW that the lamps light up.
Anything else can be addressed in the game if they dont light, by using your VOLTMETER set to DC 200 volts.
The voltage should be approx 6 to 9v more or less when testing the connector wires.
The LED's are rated to 13v so your 9v battery wont hurt them.
Quoted from Shredder565:OK, 2 lights on the mansion aren't working,
three on the cousin it arn't working, one on the top isn't working.
either I'll need to redo some crimps, or replace some lights.
I'm doing the battery test next .
So, a 9 Volt red wire to the pin, and a 9 volt black wire to the metal part by the light should get it to light up?
need to get a toothbrush, but will clean the flux off monday.
Black wire to the ground pin, red wire to wherever you want.
Pins 1 and 11 look like grounds from the pictures...?
Quoted from Shredder565:OK, 2 lights on the mansion aren't working,
three on the cousin it arn't working, one on the top isn't working.
either I'll need to redo some crimps, or replace some lights.
I'm doing the battery test next .
So, a 9 Volt red wire to the pin, and a 9 volt black wire to the metal part by the light should get it to light up?
need to get a toothbrush, but will clean the flux off monday.
Pics please
Quoted from pinballinreno:I ALWAYS test the boards before I put them in the game.
You can get the lamps to light up by putting leads directly onto the big pads that the twist sockets rest on.
Then work your way back to the pins. You can see the traces on the board that lead to the pins.
You can also test the diodes, the voltage will only go one way thru them. If you reverse the wires, one way the lamp will light up, reversed them again and the lamp will not light.
Its fun to play with and you wont break anything as its a low voltage system.
This way, you KNOW that the lamps light up.
Anything else can be addressed in the game if they dont light, by using your VOLTMETER set to DC 200 volts.
The voltage should be approx 6 to 9v more or less when testing the connector wires.
The LED's are rated to 13v so your 9v battery wont hurt them.
OK, that's how I thought that they lit up... putting one wire on top of the silver circle pad the light sits on, but wasn't sure.
I'll test the bulbs first, switching them with the game off, and then do the test above.
first thing monday.
Quoted from Shredder565:OK, that's how I thought that they lit up... putting one wire on top of the silver circle pad the light sits on, but wasn't sure.
I'll test the bulbs first, switching them with the game off, and then do the test above.
first thing monday.
I’d start with testing the pins on the lamp board by clipping an alligator clip lead to the column pin(s) and then touching each of the row pins and seeing if the corresponding lamp goes on.
If it doesn’t, you could have a bad solder joint, a bad diode, a loose connection on the socket, a lead on the LED bulb that needs to be pushed to the edge of the base of the bulb, and the list goes on. Just because the leads to the pads of the PCB doesn’t turn on the bulb it doesn’t mean it’s a dead bulb. If n that case it could be the leads on the socket or the leads on the bulb not making the connection.
Flashers should be 12V and Inserts / GI should be 5V. The LEDs might say 13V or 6.3V on them. You won’t hurt bulbs testing them at a little higher voltage, but technically you’re using up their lifespan beyond what it’s rated for (negligible in this application).
Used this and it helped a lot with lamp testing: https://www.amazon.com/KORAD-KD3005D-Precision-Adjustable-Regulated/dp/B00FPU6G4E
The leads it comes with are garbage. Used the nicer pair from the digital multimeter.
There are lots of power supplies and ways to test, but did find having the standalone power supply useful. As well as:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XX25HFX
Enjoy 
OK, will post pictures soon. on the mansion, the only slots that don't seem to want to work are D8 and D9. Every other pin to diode touch lit up the proper lamp. and switching out working bulbs had the same problem.
for the other two boards, BOTH worked fine with the battery test, so it's a crimp problem somewhere.
One light on A-15114 turned on two at a time, but I think that's supposed to happen (cousin it light?)
Quoted from Shredder565:One light on A-15114 turned on two at a time, but I think that's supposed to happen (cousin it light?)
Yep! Two lights on Cousin It.
6 lights across three boards. not bad, I guess.
any way to tell which crimps need to be redone just from the non working lights?
Quoted from Shredder565:6 lights across three boards. not bad, I guess.
any way to tell which crimps need to be redone just from the non working lights?
If you're sure it's not the bulb leads, or socket leads, then double check the soldering of the header pins underneath the cable connector. You can do a continuity check from the socket pad to the tip of the header pin with the game powered down / off. You'll need to know which pin is for which pad, or which column/row wire is for each lamp. If everything checks out, then you should check that the column and row wires are oriented correctly in the molex connector and turning on the correct bulbs in single lamp test. Ask if you don't know how to operate single lamp test in the menu
See lamp matrix: https://www.ipdb.org/files/20/Bally_1992_The_Addams_Family_Operations_Manual_January_1992_includes_schematics_OCR_searchable.pdf
If the wrong bulb is going on, you need to make the correction before you move on. This can also help you figure out the wiring, instead of blaming crimps when the issue is possibly wire orientation. If everything checks out, blame the crimps 
You can do a continuity check from the crimp pin in the connector to another part of the same colored harness wire (e.g., another connector) to see if you get continuity, but I'm betting on wire orientation.
Post photos of all the connectors on all the lamp boards and apparently a dozen of us will double check your work 
Quoted from Shredder565:6 lights across three boards. not bad, I guess.
any way to tell which crimps need to be redone just from the non working lights?
First make absolutely sure that the board has no faults in it:
Pull (or untwist) a non working bulb.
Take the bulb out of the socket.
Test the bulb with a battery, it should light. If not the bulb is bad.
Put the bulb into the socket.
Test the tabs of the socket with a battery, the bulb should light. If not, and the bulb tests good, flay out the wire ends of the bulb at a 45 degree and reinsert the bulb into the socket. Test again, it should light up. All of the bulbs I put in, need the wire ends bent outwards to make a better contact with the sockets.
If all of that tests out, reinsert the bulb and socket assembly into the board. Test the pads on the sides of the socket with a battery, the bulb should light up.
If not, bend the tabs of the socket down to make better contact with the pads on the board. It should now light up.
Once you have a working socket and bulb mounted in the board:
Press one lead of the battery to one of the pads of the nonworking bulb.
Follow the trace on the board to the next solder point of the "opposing" pad and see if the lamp will light up (reverse wires as necessary due to diodes).
Make progress until you reach the pin for that circuit.
Switch the wires of the battery if you have them backwards due to a diode, if the lamp doesnt light up.
Diodes only allow power to go thru them one way.
By following the circuit traces and testing the board each step of the way, you will be able to easily find which bulbs go to which pins.
Then of course you will know which pins on the connector go to each bulb.
Check for backwards diodes as you go thru the board.
If your lamp board tests out perfectly:
You can use your meter set to DC volts 200 to test for power or no power at the connector.
Put the black lead of the meter under a wire braid for ground.
Turn the game on
Disconnect the connector the the lamp board.
Probe each of the pins, with the red lead, in the connector for voltage.
NOTE: the ground pins will have no voltage reading.
Make a note of which pins in the connector are dead.
You can also see the circuit paths on the schematic.
Quoted from pinballinreno:If your lamp board tests out perfectly:
You can use your meter set to DC volts 200 to test for power or no power at the connector.
Put the black lead of the meter under a wire braid for ground.
Turn the game on
Disconnect the connector the the lamp board.
Probe each of the pins in the connector for voltage.
NOTE: the ground pins will have no voltage reading.
Make a note of which pins in the connector are dead.
You can also see the circuit paths on the schematic.
OK, took out the bulbs not working in the board one by one. tested each one out of the socket and each one in the socket. all worked fine. put t hem back in, and nothing. put them in the old boards that WHERE working on the original harness, and same result with the new one.
I will try this next.
Quoted from Shredder565:OK, took out the bulbs not working in the board one by one. tested each one out of the socket and each one in the socket. all worked fine. put t hem back in, and nothing. put them in the old boards that WHERE working on the original harness, and same result with the new one.
I will try this next.
Each wire and connector has a beginning and an end.
The beginning would be the driver board.
The end would be the connector you have in your hand.
If you dont have power at the end (the connector side) you can also test the power at the beginning.
follow the offending wire to the pin on the driver board and test for voltage there.
If you have voltage at the beginning (the pin on the driver board) and no voltage at the end (your connector), you have a broken wire or a bad connection pin.
NOTE:
lamps are energized in attract mode OR in single lamp test.
If the pin on the driver board has no power, LIKELY its not turned on for the moment.
Go to single lamp test or all lamp test and you should have power at the driver board.
When this pin eventually starts shooting, you need to send pinballinreno a crate of champagne / beer / whatever his poison is.
He is most likely the most patient person I’ve ever encountered on t’interweb.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Each wire and connector has a beginning and an end.
The beginning would be the driver board.
The end would be the connector you have in your hand.
If you dont have power at the end (the connector side) you can also test the power at the beginning.
follow the offending wire to the pin on the driver board and test for voltage there.
If you have voltage at the beginning (the pin on the driver board) and no voltage at the end (your connector), you have a broken wire or a bad connection pin.
NOTE:
lamps are energized in attract mode OR in single lamp test.
If the pin on the driver board has no power, LIKELY its not turned on for the moment.
Go to single lamp test or all lamp test and you should have power at the driver board.
You’d have him test the voltage on a known good board and say that’s likely his issue? Have you gotten a PM of photos of his lamp harness? Do you know if his column and row wires are correctly ordered on his connectors? Clearly he has power, or else all the bulbs wouldn’t be working in a column (positive, not ground).
I’d get the connections correct before testing voltage.
It can be as simple as a connector is reversed.
Quoted from MiniPinHead:You’d have him test the voltage on a known good board and say that’s likely his issue? Have you gotten a PM of photos of his lamp harness? Do you know if his column and row wires are correctly ordered on his connectors? Clearly he has power, or else all the bulbs wouldn’t be working in a column (positive, not ground).
I’d get the connections correct before testing voltage.
It can be as simple as a connector is reversed.
baby steps...
first verify the integrity of the lamp board.
This should only take about 10 mins.
then check that the wires are in the correct locations of the cable on BOTH sides..
Then check for power at the connector.
It "could" be a reversed wire in the connector, It "could" be a badly crimped signal or voltage pin, It could be a reversed diode etc..
Start at the beginning (the driver board) and work your way to the problem.
Quoted from pinballinreno:baby steps…
first verify the integrity of the lamp board.
This should only take about 10 mins.
then check that the wires are in the correct locations of the cable on BOTH sides..
Then check for power at the connector.
It "could" be a reversed wire in the connector, It "could" be a badly crimped signal or voltage pin, It could be a reversed diode etc..
Start at the beginning (the driver board) and work your way to the problem.
Agreed, to an extent. Working from the problem back to the driver board seems more efficient, unless we’re trying for more fireworks here?
Leave the power reading at the power driver board and the lamp board pins alone. Do a continuity check for the wire that is giving you trouble by trying to establish a connection from the crimped pin in the connector in question (because the crimp is hidden in the connector at this point) to another pin on the same wire path. Doesn’t matter where, as long as there’s supposed to be a connection. Keep things powered off for this. But we shouldn’t even be talking about this until the lamp boards and their connectors are checked out.
What we really need are the photos of the connectors and their wire orientation and order for each of the lamp boards, plus the diode orientation and the solder job on the headers.
My dude’s J133 looked good (lamp rows (ground)), but we never got a photo of J137 (lamp columns (live)) when completed. Can we have one, please? If we can get J137 confirmed, then we just need to worry about your connectors and connections on each lamp board
We know there is power coming out of the J137 header row on the power driver board, so testing power there doesn’t seem fruitful.
Keep things simple.
For curiosity sake, what reading would he get on J133 and J137 on the DMM?
Quoted from onemoresean:Did you fix this at D7?
[quoted image]
The solder creating an electrical pathway? 
Quoted from onemoresean:Did you fix this at D7?
[quoted image]
I fixed this, found one more backwards diode on the mansion.
all the wires are not flipped connected to the board.
still havn't cleaned the boards yet with iso.....
428653702_10160937849225211_6649726971796143697_n (resized).jpg428683075_10160937849085211_8049121605742103014_n (resized).jpg429945200_10160937852210211_884809468401211564_n (resized).jpg430079789_10160937849530211_1635738723388928384_n (resized).jpg430153588_10160937849575211_5152264355989266270_n (resized).jpgQuoted from Shredder565:I fixed this, found one more backwards diode on the mansion.
all the wires are not flipped connected to the board.
still havn't cleaned the boards yet with iso.....
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Do all the lamps light up in the battery test?
Do the lamps light up from the pins on the lamp board with a battery?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Do all the lamps light up in the battery test?
Do the lamps light up from the pins on the lamp board with a battery?
yes, although the last two on the right only light up on the last pin, and when I do the far left pin, it lights up a different light altogether on the left.
is this normal?
428694351_10160937918790211_4611265293223446009_n (resized).jpg428701654_10160937918805211_5676295314622450549_n (resized).jpgAre the two lit for cousin It? That would explain that. If you look at board carefully you can see if the traces both run to the same pin.
Quoted from Shredder565:yes, although the last two on the right only light up on the last pin, and when I do the far left pin, it lights up a different light altogether on the left.
is this normal?[quoted image][quoted image]
If all the lamps are getting power and capable of being it, you should be ok.
Next, Do they all light up in the "all lamp" test in the game?
If not, you will have to examine the cable and check if there is power going to the pins during the test.
Quoted from pinballinreno:If all the lamps are getting power and capable of being it, you should be ok.
Next, Do they all light up in the "all lamp" test in the game?
If not, you will have to examine the cable and check if there is power going to the pins during the test.
They don't all light up in the all lamp test. the ones that don't power on are still off in the all lamp test.
HOWEVER, one bit of good news is that they still go one by one and the ones that do work light up like they are supposed too.
Quoted from dmacy:Are the two lit for cousin It? That would explain that. If you look at board carefully you can see if the traces both run to the same pin.
Not sure on that one. Cousin it is second from the right on the bottom, IIRC. I think that would be L9?
Quoted from Shredder565:They don't all light up in the all lamp test. the ones that don't power on are still off in the all lamp test.
HOWEVER, one bit of good news is that they still go one by one and the ones that do work light up like they are supposed too.
Use your meter and check the voltge on each of the pins during the all lamp test.
Put the black lead of the meter under the ground braid of the cabinet somewhere.
Probe the pins in the back of the connector on the lamp board, with the red lead while the test is running.
If power is present and the lamps dont light, pull off the connector and test the board side of the connector pins for power.
This will tell you if you have a bad crimp.
The wire side of the connector is "one" thing, the board side is "another".
To further test this circuit:
While the test is running check the voltage at the connector on the driver board.
First check the back of the connector for power on each pin.
Then carefully slide the connector out enough to see the pins on the driver board (but leave it still plugged in).
Check for power on the pins themselves on the driver board.
If the pins on the driver board have power, but the back of the connector doesnt, you have a bad crimp.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Use your meter and check the voltge on each of the pins during the all lamp test.
Put the black lead of the meter under the ground braid of the cabinet somewhere.
Probe the pins in the back of the connector on the lamp board, with the red lead while the test is running.
If power is present and the lamps dont light, pull off the connector and test the board side of the connector pins for power.
This will tell you if you have a bad crimp.
The wire side of the connector is "one" thing, the board side is "another".
To further test this circuit:
While the test is running check the voltage at the connector on the driver board.
First check the back of the connector for power on each pin.
Then carefully slide the connector out enough to see the pins on the driver board (but leave it still plugged in).
Check for power on the pins themselves on the driver board.
If the pins on the driver board have power, but the back of the connector doesnt, you have a bad crimp.
still at 200 volt DC?
Quoted from Shredder565:still at 200 volt DC?
yes
Its also a good time to verify that the correct wires are going to the correct pins on both sides of the cable
The schematic and wire colors are helpful here.
OK, all lamp test. everyone was getting around a .8 (or was it 8.0) volts but these where getting hardly anything. 1.0(.01?) I forget the range but it was one of the two.
this is with the all lamp test and the connector connected to the board.
428711056_10160938184590211_2463690777973833096_n (resized).jpg
only one other pin didn't register in the 8s, and that was somewhere around 6.5 something.
Quoted from Shredder565:OK, all lamp test. everyone was getting around a .8 (or was it 8.0) volts but these where getting hardly anything. 1.0(.01?) I forget the range but it was one of the two.
this is with the all lamp test and the connector connected to the board.
[quoted image]
only one other pin didn't register in the 8s, and that was somewhere around 6.5 something.
Anywhere between 5 and 8 is ok, the lamps will light at those voltages.
Those 2 wires dont have enough power to light the lamp.
Go the the driver board side and test the connector for those 2 wires and also test the pins on the driver board to see if you can see more voltage
Also please verify AGAIN the wire colors and locations from the schematic and also verify the the connector is in the right location on the driver board.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Anywhere between 5 and 8 is ok, the lamps will light at those voltages.
OK, so it just seems as if two are bad. I think they barely got into the one , 1.5 range.
Go the the driver board side and test the connector for those 2 wires and also test the pins on the driver board to see if you can see more voltage
Also please verify AGAIN the wire colors and locations from the schematic and also verify the the connector is in the right location on the driver board.
Quoted from Shredder565:Looking at this, Row 6 connects to one of my other non working lights above.[quoted image]
Check the driver board connector for that ROW pin.
Test the voltage at the pin on the driver board and the voltage at the wire side of the connector for that wire.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Check the driver board connector for that ROW pin.
Test the voltage at the pin on the driver board and the voltage at the wire side of the connector for that wire.
I imagine that the pin on the driver board has power, please test the actual pin, not the connector to be sure.
After that, test the connector while its plugged into the driver board.
It may be as simple as a badly crimped or loose wire on the driver board side.
Starting at the pin from the driver board, please trace or check that specific wire at each of its connections or each place the wire stops..
If none of the lamps in the row light up then the wire has no power from the driver board.
If some do and some dont, then there is a break in the wire.
Quoted from Shredder565:OK, all lamp test. everyone was getting around a .8 (or was it 8.0) volts but these where getting hardly anything. 1.0(.01?) I forget the range but it was one of the two.
this is with the all lamp test and the connector connected to the board.
[quoted image]
only one other pin didn't register in the 8s, and that was somewhere around 6.5 something.
The yellow, column wires look good on your A-15110 10-lamp PCB
But it looks like more of your red, row wires need to also be returning and extending the circuit (or connecting) from another lamp, or lamps.
All of your lamp boards need to be checked for wiring connection accuracy. There is a break down because the series circuit doesn't exist on some of your rows.
Quoted from MiniPinHead:The yellow, column wires look good on your A-15110 10-lamp PCB
[quoted image]
But it looks like more of your red, row wires need to also be returning and extending the circuit (or connecting) from another lamp, or lamps.
You are confusing the issue at hand...
Quoted from pinballinreno:You are confusing the issue at hand...
Are you saying that 7 red lamp row wires end at A-15110 / the 10-lamp PCB? Not a TAF expert, but the manual he has should show otherwise.
Quoted from Shredder565:Looking at this, Row 6 connects to one of my other non working lights above.[quoted image]
But does it?
When testing the PCBs disconnected from the game, independent of anything off the board, you have to be aware that there can be multiple column pins, so certain pins won't turn on lamps with the battery unless you pick the correct column pin for the correct row pin.
On the 10 pin lamp board, one column pin with allow two lamps to turn on and the other eight. If you never moved the battery from the column pin to the other side of the header that's why two bulbs didn't turn on. When connected to the game, the connections between lamp panels and the cable could be the issue here.
OK, We tested the 133-137 pins. all showed a heathly 8 range. it was just on the connector side on the playfield that showed a low 1.2 something on two pins.
as far as resistance goes from pin to diode, all showed clean and registered a beep, so that is good.
could there be a bad crimp in the connector side?
Quoted from Shredder565:OK, We tested the 133-137 pins. all showed a heathly 8 range. it was just on the connector side on the playfield that showed a low 1.2 something on two pins.
as far as resistance goes from pin to diode, all showed clean and registered a beep, so that is good.
could there be a bad crimp in the connector side?
8 volts on the pin and nothing or low voltage at the back side of the "driver board connector" pin usually means that the pin is hanging by a thread or badly crimped.
Push out the low voltage pins in the DRIVER BOARD CONNECTOR and examine them or replace them.
The back side of the connector pin at the driver board should have the same voltage as the pin on the driver board.
This same voltage should be present at each lamp in the row.
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