(Topic ID: 21163)

WPC Demo Man switch matrix issue.

By Andre

11 years ago


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#1 11 years ago

Edited the title,see update below in later post.Thanks!

Hi guys!
New owner of a Demo Man.Can't start a game because i get the coin door error message.
I double checked the door switches,good,but decided to jump them anyway.One is a 2 contact switch that cut both the 51.4v and the 16v circuit but a second switch is going to a small electronic board near the left side flipper button.All of them are jumped,my voltage at J 102 are ok,fuse 111 and 112 are ok,all solenoids including flippers fire during coil test but i still get that coin door error message and can't start a game...
Any idea what i can-should check next?
T.I.A.
Andre

#2 11 years ago

check switch test and it should register. And then check the wire between the switch and the interface board on the inside left hand side of the machine. Ironically, mine went bad yesterday on the same machine

#3 11 years ago

Any signs of battery corrosion on the CPU board?

#4 11 years ago
Quoted from pinmike:

Any signs of battery corrosion on the CPU board?

yes... are there other switches not responding in the row or column such as: slam tilt, buy in button, shooter lane switch or left handle top button, right slingshot?

#5 11 years ago

"the coin door error" has no meaning to me. Can't help as this is too vague.

#6 11 years ago

I read that as the - coin door open can't start a game - message (whatever the true wording is). It pretty much invades the game and doesn't allow you to start a game. I could see this being an "error" to someone not really versed in pinball since it was essentially one of the newest features in WPC-S

#7 11 years ago

Well I'd rather not type paragraphs of suggestions based on assumptions. If people want help, they need to be more specific.

#8 11 years ago

agreed on that. I'm just bored as its hot as shit today and my 2 year old isn't ready for bed

#9 11 years ago
Quoted from castlesteve:

I read that as the - coin door open can't start a game - message (whatever the true wording is). It pretty much invades the game and doesn't allow you to start a game. I could see this being an "error" to someone not really versed in pinball since it was essentially one of the newest features in WPC-S

Exactly.Excuse my poor english wording...
No corrosion near the batteries.As for others switches not working,how can i check that?I did swing the tilt bob and nothing happened but no game were started.
The game is new to me and i never played it once as it won't let me start a game...
This is my first "modern pin" and i'm a newbie in the hobby.
Will recheck connections at the interface board inside lefthand side.
Thanks!

Markmon,i'd like to be more specific but kind of new in this hobby and my english is not perfect.
Anything you need to know for helping me solve this problem?
T.I.A.

#10 11 years ago

Is the game even on free play??

#11 11 years ago

I just checked mine... And you can still start a game on this machine with the door open. Set to free play or add credits

But in short, you need to find the menu button inside and get familiar with the menus and settings

#12 11 years ago
Quoted from castlesteve:

I just checked mine... And you can still start a game on this machine with the door open. Set to free play or add credits
But in short, you need to find the menu button inside and get familiar with the menus and settings

Thanks,that what i did this morning.Found out that column 1,2 and 4 of the switch matrix don't register at all.One of them include the coin door switches and the front start and launch ball buttons,so i guess that's why i get the coin door open message.
Now i've got to learn how to repair the switch matrix,any idea where i should start at?
I'm learning a lot from this site,thanks to you guys!
One last question,i also get a "Claw out of range "message after turning on the pin.I notice that in a column of the matrix that doesn't work there is 2 switches call "Claw position" 1 and 2.Could it be related?
Claw and magnet don't work in test mode.
Thanks again!

#13 11 years ago

I have seen where there is no corrosion at the batterries, but the header connector pins at the bottom of the cpu were causing things not to work or register. Repinning them fixed the probem. Just my .02

#14 11 years ago

Does the machine know when you open and close the coin door? If not the two white switches could be bad (one of them) or the flap that engages them may be bent.....if I am understanding it is saying coin door open? Start simple with this.

#15 11 years ago

Door switches are all jumped.Going to the basement right now to double check connectors and pins for sign of corrosion.
Will get back to you guys and report!

Maybe i should edit the title to switch matrix issue...

#16 11 years ago

Can you get to switch edge test using the service button? Is your u20 socketed already by chance?

#17 11 years ago

Yes i can get to switch edge test.That's how i found out that column 1,2 and 4 don't work.I removed both J207 J209,put a paperclip in the first connector hole of the green wires,the brown and green wire,that column don't work.I have continuity to all 4 playfield switches but none to the front 4 switches using that wire(start,launch,tiltbob,left trigger button).It looks like the brown green wire going to the front is from another harness...
That's where i am at.
Will check for u20...

Is this a good test to make? Paragraph 4.13.2
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Power-On_LEDs_and_Sound_Tones_.28Bongs.29

#18 11 years ago

Just finished doing the test describe in the link above.None of the 1,2 and 4 column switch register when jump directly from j207 to j 209.
Anyone have a clue what to look for or is the switch matrix gone for good?
Thanks!

PS. U20 isn't socketed...

#19 11 years ago

This area only usually goes dead with prior acid damage. Someone may have cleaned it, but if not done right it will continue to corrode in-between and inside the ICs. Most of the ICs just south of the battery are the damage areas. Get the WPC schematic and run them out... of course, the schematic is riddled with errors, but if you know electronics you should be able to figure it out. If not, its time to send the board out for repair or buy another and be done with it. For me, it takes probably 2-3 attempts back and forth between the bench and pin to get all the damage fixed, generally a couple hours of work... which equates to almost the cost of a new board in labor. So, if not comfortable with working on it yet, buy a new one and sell the old one on ebay for $25-40 to make some money back

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