(Topic ID: 100589)

Williams Sorcerer Solenoid Problems

By zombywoof

9 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 15 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by WOLF
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider vid1900.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#2 9 years ago

Your ground test shows the wiring is good from the trans to the coil.

You can test the transistor with the power off, with a VOM. If you just want to shotgun, replace the trans with a higher rated TIP102 and replace the little pre-driver transistor too.

Did you replace your flashers with LEDs?

#5 9 years ago

.2 does not sound good at all.

You can check any of the same transistors that are next to it to see the correct values.

#6 9 years ago
Quoted from zombywoof:

I'm assuming that Q82 is the little pre-driver.

I'm on my phone so I can't look it up for you, but if you download the manual, you will see the correct trans on the schematic attached to Q83 (and this is a good, easy, exercise in learning to read schematics, too).

#9 9 years ago
Quoted from zombywoof:

Should I still replace Q83 with a TIP102 even though it doesn't read as open?

Transistors can fail as open, as a dead short, or just not work. Of course the hardest to diagnose is the just not work.

But if all the other transistors read .6 or .4 and that one reads .2 - you found a problem right there.

-

Testing TIP102:

Meter in DIODE mode.

Black lead on center tab of transistor (there is a hole in the center tab - it's right on top of the transistor).

Red lead tests each outside leg.

Readings should be between .4 and .6

If you reverse the set up and put the red lead on the center tab, the outer legs should read 0.

Test your work by checking other transistors around the bad one.

-

Testing the little 2n4401:

RED lead to center leg.

BLACK on outside legs.

Should read between .4 and .6

(Anytime a TIP102 is killed, always replace the 2N4401 at the same time, if it's not dead, it's probably stressed anyway)

#10 9 years ago
Quoted from zombywoof:

Back to the flashers. I'm guessing you asked about LED's because the sockets have a trickle charge to keep the bulbs warm and ready, which could be enough juice to light the LED continuously. Why would the incandescents stay lit?

Another transistor is probably bad, although I could be a number of other things.

#13 9 years ago

Check the coil, make sure it's more than 3 ohms.

Check the coil diode also (unsolder one leg) .

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 36.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 22.50
$ 27.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 65.00
Boards
Pinball Haus
 
$ 749.00
Flipper Parts
Mircoplayfields
 
$ 12.50
Lighting - Led
RoyGBev Pinball
 
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider vid1900.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-sorcerer-solenoid-problems?tu=vid1900 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.