Keep in mind that Steve's animation is for a Williams Score reel. It probably also matches a Bally. But depending on year, Gottlieb did things a bit differently concerning which switches close or open and when. So, don't go reworking your switch just because it doesn't match Steve's diagram.

But what does match is that in all cases, the #9 carry over switch will close at 9 and be open at every other position.

Your 9 carry over is the single outside blades. Contacts look dirty. Gap seems okay. Just make sure short blade gets pushed a bit by the long blade as the score reel goes from 8 to 9. You will have to advance by hand to see motion of blade.

You can install an alligator clip jumper across the two wires that feed that switch. With it in place, every time you score 10, you should also get 100. This will prove it is only that switch and not something else.

Yes, that is correct. I would have to see a schematic to direct you to other items in line with that switch.

You can also stick a small screw driver between the blades (near the bakelite spacers) just to make sure. I don't know how good a connection you may have made with your jumper. At least alligator clips can dig into the corroded old Solder.

It would seem it has been okay in the past for people (like myself) to post the portion of the schematic related to the problem at hand. I would suggest you not post the entire drawing or file.

If you can locate the Player 2 tens unit SU (step up) coil and then snap a photo of that area plus the box that shows what letters are which relays.

No, that's the section for Match reading off the 10's unit wiper board.

You can go to the charts and look up the "other coils" and find Player 2 10's SU (I think that's how it will be called out). That should tell you where on the schematic (like 11-B) to find it. Then, you are looking for that symbol of all the curley cues connected together (like loops of wire).

sorry, I thought they spelled out all the coils. I guess they don't for the ones that are obvious to seasoned techs. But it was my mistake. That's not what we needed anyway.

A fellow pinsider was kind enough to supply the info we needed.

Looking over the schematic, Gottlieb introduced something I haven't seen them do before. There is an "on add X "Tens"" switch in series with the 9th pos. switch (see 2nd snip). I believe this is actually an EOS (End of stroke) switch that "feels" when the score drum plunger has bottomed out. There is normally an EOS to drop out the score relay (so you get a full stroke of the plunger). But there are apparently 2 sets of leaf switches on this late model game.

So, if you slide the score drum unit out, and look for a small set of leaf contacts in the middle of the metal plate, you will see a set that are hit by the plunger nylon link. If you compare the bad reel to a good one, I expect you will find one of the blades has broken off (every common on Gott. Score Reel EOS's). But it may have all 4 blades and only be out of adjustment.

scscore (resized).JPG

scscore2 (resized).JPG

Here is a post that shows a broken EOS. But it is the single style.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-aquarius-anybody-have-a-spare-switch

The one closest to the plastic reel should be closed when the plunger bottoms out. This is the one that allows the carry over to the next reel.

The one closest to the coil should he normally closed and opens when the plunger bottoms out.

Since they used those thicker stiffener blades, you can't expect over-travel but there should he good pressure against it from the moving blade. Always tighten the screws before adjusting.

Drag a needle file between the points. Tug on the wires to check for weak solder joints.

In theory, one should always check and tighten ALL switch stacks before doing any checks or adjustments.