Two thoughts: Are the score reel switches set properly? Are the score relays set properly? All this is going to be in the head.

does it also score 10's and 100's at the same time? if it does then check the 9s rollover sw on the reels. if not then I'd look to the relay for the drop target scoring, if its gapped too close this could cause issues all over the pf

Another thought: Verify the big group of switches under the playfield is secured properly. That's the set that has a BIG 115VAC coil(s) to activate the reset bar. I had an issue on a Gottlieb machine where the group was twisted, and caused some of the switch contacts to make when they should not have. It's possible that the switches for the drop targets are too close and making with vibration. The big trouble is you can't really see them when the playfield is down.

There's two butterfly nuts or wingnuts that hold the assembly in place. Make sure the assembly is bottomed out on each side, which should ensure there is no twist. Hand tighten the wingnuts, then try playing. If it still acts erratic, turn off, loosen the wing nuts, and allow the assembly to hang down. Verify the assembly does not hit anything after putting the playfield down, then try again. If the problem goes away, you will know where the problem is. I do not recommend allowing the assembly to continue to hang from the hinges.

Do you have the schematic?

Looking at the top left (A1), the lights are controlled by a make break switch. 1B does the 1 roll over and the yellow light in front of the number 1 drop. 2B does the 2s, etc... When you start the game, the reset arm on the 1B-7B bank should go and all the number should light and none of the yellow in front of the drops should light.

Is that how it looks when it starts?

Looking around H4, you can see the scoring switches for the drop targets and the stand up targets. These flow throw and activate either B and C, the 50 and 500 point relays depending on the position of the switches on 1B-7B again.

There's also a third line from the drop target switches to D via the multiplier unit. D is the 10 times point relay. There's a make-break switch on D (at F8) that makes the 50 unit score 500 and the 500 unit score 5000.

So where does this leave us? I can't test this 100% at the moment as my Sky Jump is in pieces, but I think this'll work.

The stand up targets should never score 5000, but if the switches on D are misaligned, I think it's possible. To test, activate all the roll overs so all the yellow lights in front of the drop targets are lit. Then tap the stand up targets. If they score 5000, the problem is on D, right side, second from the back, the make/break switch (probably with the maroon/orange wires).

What you're calling kickers are often called slingshots.

D was my first guess as it was an easy target. The other part of the circuit that controls the 50/500 and 10/100 scoring is in the 1B-7B relay bank part of the circuit. I'll go have a look at the relay bank and get back to you.

No. The long relay bank with a bunch of switches and a big coil and bar the resets them all. Back end of the playfield:
20170622_185909 (resized).jpg

No dramas. Hopefully I can help.

The big reset bank is the other part of the circuit that's supposed to control the 50/500, 10/100 scoring. There are 7 relays on the bank and they are numbered 1B-7B. First thing is to ensure that the reset arm correctly resets all 7 relays. After the arm acutes at the start of a game, none of the round, insulated arms should be touching the switches. Then, as the rollovers 1-7 switches go, each relay should activate, pulling the the arm against the switches. This should change lights on the playfield and the scoring.

Each relay has a couple of make/break switches. Check that they are aligned correctly.

Let's have a look at the roll overs then. Here's the circuit:
Screenshot from 2017-10-17 13-57-02 (resized).png
Your slingshots and the single switches behind the drop targets and in the top left corner all score 10?

I think that rules out D, the 9th pos switch and a few others.

Can you take a detailed picture of the wires on 2B and 6B on the relay bank? Might as well do all of them:
20171017_102136.jpg

If you could get one from across the top, from about 45 degrees lower than this one.

Probably also worth undoing the wing nuts and taking a shot of the bottom, looking up at the blades.

Do you have a multimeter? With the machine off, can you test for continuity on 6B between the Green/White/Red and the Yellow/Blue/Red? Should always be not connected, regardless of the position of the 6B relay.

Sorry, threw you a furphy. I realised when I was checking everything was disconnected from the backbox. They are connected, via the M and L coils, at around 30 ohms?

If you disconnect the 6 pin jones plug in the light box and test for continuity between Green/White/Red and the Yellow/Blue/Red pins it should be open.
20171018_153806 (resized).jpg
While you're in there, pull off the big jones plugs too and test the same coloured pins, and again it should be open.

Across those colours on the either socket should read 30 ohms.

On the large jones plug, Y/B/R to G/W/R should be open: 20171018_154957 (resized).jpg
In the backbox, from any socket, Y/B/R to G/W/R should be connected and you should measure around 30 ohms: 20171018_155046 (resized).jpg

Posting some snips for reference later.

SKRelays (resized).JPG

SKScore1 (resized).JPG

SKScore2 (resized).JPG

It almost seems like you have two separate issues.

If you notice, there is a normally closed switch on C (500 point relay) that prevents B from pulling it. So the game won't score 50 points when it is scoring 500 points. If you were to hit something that scores 500 when it was scoring 50, it would switch over and finish with the remaining pulses going to the 100 point relay.

Does EVERY single feature score the lit value? I ask since pretty much each item is controlled separately by the associated number trip relay. So, it is possible for a single short short to join in common, all the 50 point score to the 500 point score and then the Normally closed switch above prevents the 50 point score. But for the things that score only 100 or 1000, they are directly wired to the score relays (L & M) and a short would actually energize both the 10 point and 100 point relay at the same time. And you haven't stated that this is happening.

The only way I can understand that EVERY item is scoring the lit value would be for EVERY make break switch on the trip bank to be misadjusted so it is always closed. Can you take a close up side view photo of some of the switches on the top of the trip bank? With the jumpers going across (showing us the condition of the points when the relays are reset and one where the relays are tripped). Due to those solid wire jumpers, I am thinking that the ones on the top control the score change over while the internal ones are for lamp control and special sequence completion.

Another thing that sometimes causes weird scoring issues on a Gottlieb are the 3 bladed Spot Target and Drop Target switches. These are the ones show with 3 open lines (not a make/break set up like normal). On this game, they are used on the drop target switches. On these switches, all three blades must not touch at rest. Only when the target is 1/2 way up/down, should the three blades be shorting together. If the switches have a keeper blade (the shorter one that just rests on a blade to push it outward) make sure it is not leaning from one blade to the other but only resting against the blade it shares position in the spacer stack.

Mine only short when the target is midway through its motion. At rest the contacts are separate again.20171020_112457 (resized).jpg

That is how it should work. I just meant to check to make sure none of the blades are touching when the targets are up or down. I forgot that as a "scoring" switch, they only touch while falling.

Thank you for pointing out my mistake so as not to confuse the OP.

Yes, those essentially show me what I wanted to see. Some of your earlier photos had me questioning if the points were open when in the reset position. If the outside ones are representative of others, then it looks like they are okay.

At this point, I am at a loss. You didn't confirm whether or not each and every item on the playfield that has a lit and unlit value are all scoring the lit value even though they are not lit. (Pop Bumpers don't count as they are hard wired to a single value).

Does anything about how it acts scoring wise change when the items are lit (numbered roll overs tripped)?

How do the Drop Targets react as to score value since they actually have 3 levels of score value. Are they scoring 5000 when the 10X spot light aligns with the target?

I'm pretty stumped too. I think there must be a short between the M and L circuits, but I can't think where it is. Unfortunately I can't just jumper them together on my own machine to try and replicate the behaviour.

But if M and L were shorted together, then things that score 100 would score 1,100 and things that score 1000 would score 1,100.

As to drop targets, their score is 50 or 500 (or 5000), not 1000.

True, I'd forgotten that the drops are supposed to scored 50. The slingshots do actually score 10 (right @fotoboy?) so if there was a short in that part of the circuit the slingshot would score 100. Hmmm...

Just trying to think of what's common between the drops and the roll overs. C and B switches are present in both circuits (F6 and F8). Could there be something there?

Yes, rebound rubbers and sling shots score 10 points.

That's what doesn't make sense. Each individual score switch that can score two values is individually routed through a separate make/break switch at each number trip relay. They only "share" wiring after those switches.

With the C and D relays, I can see how if there was a "shorted" the C break switch prevents the D from pulling in so you don't get 550 points.

That's why I asked about each and every item score higher include each drop target hope it might shed some light on where to look next.

I do not own this game or have a schematic, but if there is a moving 10x score function..it might be controlled by an as relay stepper. If there is one, it might be worth checking.

That's what makes me think it's something in that shared wiring. One thing I was wondering was if some of the solder tabs on top of the relay bank had been bent? There's not a huge amount of clearance between some of them on mine:
dc5efd839af51386105794d211f9ba1a9870e05b.jpg
That might make the switch stay closed even when the contacts are open?

Yes, but that would explain only one target or rollover scoring the lit value. Not every single one. Or, would make it score 1100 since the other contact would be closed too.

fotoboy I know this would only explain the drop targets, but when the game is running, is the D relay (bottom of cabinet, second from the back on the right) energised or does it pull in and release during scoring or does it do nothing?

Ok, let's have a close look at the scoring.

Some things are fixed:
- The centre red pop scores 1000 in 3 ball and 100 in 5 ball mode, so you're in 3 ball mode?
- The blue pops score 100
- The slingshots, switches behind the drop targets and the other lone switch score 10
- The numbered rollovers (1-7 on the PF, I2 on the schematic) and they always energise G, and score 1000 via L.

Most of that seemed right, except the #6.

The rest of the scoring relates to the state of the numbered rollovers and need to be tested both before and after the numbered rollovers are triggered:
- The "Right side rollovers" should score 100 or 1000 depending on whether the numbered rollover 2 is lit
- The "left side roll over" should score 100 or 1000 depending on whether the numbered rollover 6 is lit
- The yellow standups score 50 or 500 depending on the state of the numbered rollovers.

- The scoring for the drops is complicated:
- They score 50 when neither the yellow or yellow is lit
- They score 500 when the yellow is lit OR the red is lit
- They score 5000 when the yellow is lit AND red is lit
In 3 ball mode, 2 red lights may be lit (operator adjustable). The centre red bumper should move the red light. So what you showed in the video seems about right, but it's hard to say as you'd already hit the numbered rollovers.

First thing I'd check is that 1100 on the #6 rollover. Is that repeatable?

Check the Green and Yellow Roll overs and Spot Targets BEFORE you trip any of the numbers. By tripping the numbers first, you have changed each of the green and yellow items to their LIT value.

Your problem appears to be more a "lights aren't lit now" problem than a scoring issue.

If you are in 3 ball mode as ajfclark indicated, then the second drop target that scored 5000 points was correct since there are TWO traveling pink spots when in 3 ball mode. Without hitting anything else, hit the center pop bumper and watch how and if the pink circles move from left to right across the playfield with 2 needing to be lit at any particular time.

The way your Yellow and Green "When Lit" lights are "sometimes" lit after you have tripped the associated number, may be nothing more than a bad switch on the score motor. There is a switch in charge of turning off all of the scoring and bumper lights while the score motor is turning since the game cannot score any of those values until it has finished the previous score process.

SJ Lights (resized).JPG

I think you might've nailed it. I missed it the first time through the video, but the pop bumper lights go on and off too. 20 seconds in things are lit correctly, but then after the motor turns the pop bumpers don't light up again.

Still intrigued by #6 scoring 1100. That should not happen either.

I would expect that to be set of shorted points at the #6 trip bank relay. Possibly even shorted solder tabs as you suggested earlier. A score of 1100 makes total sense. You can even "Hear" it in the video (2 chimes at once). The previous described symptoms didn't.

The Video really made things make a whole lot more sense then when we were trying to figure a problem out based on a verbal description. Sometimes, no matter how you phrase a question, you may not get an answer that supplies any more clues than before.

Who would have thought to ask if the OP was tripping the number relays BEFORE testing the unlit features????