I am having the same results as well. The only difference for me however is that I replaced ALL the trough switches and diodes and I replaced the eject solenoid switch as noted in the video (I forgot to replace the diode on this switch but will later; I'm very doubtful that's the issue but just in case). Two out of the three chaos modes I started ended up with a ball waiting on the eject solenoid just like before.

I did some testing by throwing the ball sdtm and I noticed sometimes it would skip the first switch. I've since adjusted every trough switch so that their roller is as high as possible hence increasing the sensitivity. I was a little confused by your order of operations though. Do you mean when the ball goes sdtm but rebounds up an outline then back down the drain? Since my latest adjustments I cheated two chaos modes with instant drains (as a test) and two real chaos modes and everything worked well!

Well, of course it worked golden for 5+ chaos modes and triballs and last night I again had to wait for a ball to get kicked into the shooter lane during a chaos mode. This issue is really a PITA. I'm going to replace the last diode I forgot that's on the actual switch for the vuk on the trough though I have my doubts that will help.

I believe you're right as last week I spent a good 10 minutes bending the metal arm on the VUK switch so that it's very sensitive to closures. I got it to the point that in its resting state it's slightly pre-loaded so the slightest touch will activate it. Haven't had to wait for a ball since. I should note that oddly enough the new switch has more tension than the old switch. I saved the old switch just in case as I think all I really needed to do was adjust the metal armature. Thanks to all!

I double checked and if you ordered all new parts from pinballlife.com (6 rollover switches (180-5119-02) + 1 trough switch (180-5118-00) + 10 1N4004 Diodes it'll be about $35 shipped. I would shotgun the whole trough and the beat down 22 year old switches and be done with it forever. Note that you will still may need to adjust the metal armature on the VUK switch like I did but it's been 100% solid since.

I actually should have done a follow up post as I ran into an issue with the new VUK switch. The main solution to the problem is that when the ball is resting above the VUK you must have the switch the ball rests on closed. I thought everything was great until the same problem occurred again with all new switches. I took a close look at the VUK switch and the tension on the new switch is too strong. I manually pushed the switch closed with the ball but when I let go the tension from the switch would actually push the ball back and go open again. I ended up replacing it with the original old switch and this particular issue is solved. A new issue arrived (or maybe it's just me) in that sometimes there's a two second delay before the VUK pops the ball into the shooter lane but it's sporadic enough to where I don't care much as the game works 100% otherwise.

I would go into diagnostics and go to the active switch test and verify that with all the balls in the trough that each switch is showing up in the test. What I would do next is move the ball closest to the VUK back so that all the balls come off the switches and let go. You should hear/see all six switches close from the test sound and what the DMD screen shows. Alternatively you can empty the trough and let a ball slide down and watch the DMD to see if each switch registers. If this is all clear then you can forget about the six rollovers as an issue.

Some serious divots going on there. The part number is 535-6621-00 but seems to be impossible to find unless you can find another Data East parts machine.

That actually looks identical and it does say it can be used as a 6-ball. Looks like it also comes with all the switches and diodes presoldered. Nice find. They should really have this appear or at least cross referenced when searching "535-6621-00" in their search bar.