Data East ball trough fix video: JP,LAH,TFTC,Tommy,WWFRR,GNR

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By ChadH

3 years ago


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  • Started 3 years ago
  • 22 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by TimeWarp1

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#1 3 years ago

Ever playing multiball on one of your Data East games such as JP, LAH, TFTC, Tommy, WWFRR, or GNR and your game loses track of the balls on the playfield or in the ball trough? Sometimes you drain back down to one ball after a multiball mode but the game still thinks you are in multiball? Or you drain all the balls and the game still thinks there is a ball on the playfield and you have to wait for ball search to kick in?

This video describes what your issue might be and how to fix it:
» YouTube video

Here is the switch shown in the video:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5118-00

I want to note that even if your switch is detecting fine, it might still be faulty and I would still recommend replacing it regardless.

Thanks to fellow Pinsider NewPinOwner for informing us all about this issue in this thread:
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/testing-de-ball-trough-switches

#2 3 years ago

thanks for the video, I have a tftc, and have a problem like this, but also I thing the ball release solenoid is letting 2 balls slip past it sometimes when only one should be let out of the trough, I'm not sure what to do with that..

#3 3 years ago

Thanks for that info! I've had that problem intermittently on my JP as well.

#4 3 years ago

Yep, nice vid.....pretty common problem

#5 3 years ago

Thanks a lot. Now i only need a german shop with this switch ...or at least EU.

Is it possible that there is a wrong part no. for this switch in the manual?
In the manual i got the port no. for this switch is 180-5119-00 like the other 6 switches bevor this one. Definitely wrong! 180-5118-00 like you said in your video is right.

Just saying.

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from NFK:

Is it possible that there is a wrong part no. for this switch in the manual?
In the manual i got the port no. for this switch is 180-5119-00 like the other 6 switches bevor this one. Definitely wrong! 180-5118-00 like you said in your video is right.

That's odd. The JP manual at ipdb.org also shows the switch listed as 180-5118-00 and description of "Switch, Miniature". It's on page 99 and 100 of the PDF... it's Item number 4.

Either way... the Marco link above is the correct switch.

#7 3 years ago

Cool video..thanks for taking time out but you don't need to change the switch you just need to bend the arm out a bit so the ball can activate the switch where ever it sits in the trough. I fixed 2 switches on my LAH, I also have RBION and it had the same issue...all 3 cases I bent the arm a little so it will get activated.

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from kvan99:

Cool video..thanks for taking time out but you don't need to change the switch you just need to bend the arm out a bit so the ball can activate the switch where ever it sits in the trough. I fixed 2 switches on my LAH, I also have RBION and it had the same issue...all 3 cases I bent the arm a little so it will get activated.

For some, just bending the switch might help. But I don't think bending my switch would have fixed it 100%. As I mentioned in the video, it took quite a bit of pressure to close the original switch, while the new switch would very easily close with little pressure. The key is that the switch must be able to easily close with just the weight of the ball on it.

#9 3 years ago

Awesome video, man! Glad all is well with your JP again!

Great explanation on the video. I would have inadvertently over-explained and made it out to be way more complicated. You were pretty straight and to the point - well done!

#10 3 years ago

Nice helpful video. You gotta love Marco prices. $10 for a switch? I looked and PBL does NOT have this switch, but if they did, it would probably be about $4.50.

#11 3 years ago

If the arm is in good condition, I believe you should just be able to move it to a new switch for much cheaper:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1578

1 year later
#12 1 year ago

I finally got a new switch but it did not fix the issue. :/

Maybe I have to bent the new one a lil...

1 year later
#13 22 days ago
Quoted from NFK:

I finally got a new switch but it did not fix the issue. :/
Maybe I have to bent the new one a lil...

I am having the same results as well. The only difference for me however is that I replaced ALL the trough switches and diodes and I replaced the eject solenoid switch as noted in the video (I forgot to replace the diode on this switch but will later; I'm very doubtful that's the issue but just in case). Two out of the three chaos modes I started ended up with a ball waiting on the eject solenoid just like before.

#14 22 days ago
Quoted from TimeWarp1:

I am having the same results as well. The only difference for me however is that I replaced ALL the trough switches and diodes and I replaced the eject solenoid switch as noted in the video (I forgot to replace the diode on this switch but will later; I'm very doubtful that's the issue but just in case). Two out of the three chaos modes I started ended up with a ball waiting on the eject solenoid just like before.

Go into switch test mode and make sure all your switches are being tripped properly as the ball makes it ways from the STDM drain to the outlane to the trough. Everything has to trigger for it to behave properly. Used to drive me crazy.

#15 20 days ago

I did some testing by throwing the ball sdtm and I noticed sometimes it would skip the first switch. I've since adjusted every trough switch so that their roller is as high as possible hence increasing the sensitivity. I was a little confused by your order of operations though. Do you mean when the ball goes sdtm but rebounds up an outline then back down the drain? Since my latest adjustments I cheated two chaos modes with instant drains (as a test) and two real chaos modes and everything worked well!

#16 20 days ago

What I meant was once it goes SDTM, it goes into what I may have incorrectly referred to as the outlane trough (where on some games, there is a switch which kicks the ball from left to right back into the ball trough), and a solenoid kicks the balls back "into line" as the game gives you your bonus and you patiently wait for the next ball to begin. I didn't mean the actual outlanes that run parallel with the inlanes near the flippers. Sorry for that confusion :).

Sounds like your game is working though :D??

#17 19 days ago

Well, of course it worked golden for 5+ chaos modes and triballs and last night I again had to wait for a ball to get kicked into the shooter lane during a chaos mode. This issue is really a PITA. I'm going to replace the last diode I forgot that's on the actual switch for the vuk on the trough though I have my doubts that will help.

#18 19 days ago

Check to see if the switch at the very end needs to be adjusted at all. That seems very strange for it to be acting up on you if you replaced all the switches. I'm betting the one at the end just barely needs to be adjusted. It sounds like you're right on the cusp of it working 100%.

1 week later
#19 10 days ago
Quoted from NPO:

Check to see if the switch at the very end needs to be adjusted at all. That seems very strange for it to be acting up on you if you replaced all the switches. I'm betting the one at the end just barely needs to be adjusted. It sounds like you're right on the cusp of it working 100%.

I believe you're right as last week I spent a good 10 minutes bending the metal arm on the VUK switch so that it's very sensitive to closures. I got it to the point that in its resting state it's slightly pre-loaded so the slightest touch will activate it. Haven't had to wait for a ball since. I should note that oddly enough the new switch has more tension than the old switch. I saved the old switch just in case as I think all I really needed to do was adjust the metal armature. Thanks to all!

#20 5 days ago

I am now having issues with my ball trough on gnr. I adjust the arms of the six switches along with the switch close to the ball launch. This fixes the issue for the short term, but inivedably the issues come back. Order all new switches? I don't mind putting money into it and getting it fixed. Gnr might be my favorite game and I need her running on all cylinders. Any suggestions are appreciated.

#21 5 days ago
Quoted from CyberNinja24:

I am now having issues with my ball trough on gnr. I adjust the arms of the six switches along with the switch close to the ball launch. This fixes the issue for the short term, but inivedably the issues come back. Order all new switches? I don't mind putting money into it and getting it fixed. Gnr might be my favorite game and I need her running on all cylinders. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Go into switch test mode, and roll a ball through the ball trough. ANY switches that are not tripping properly, swap them out. Trust me, you'll be much happier ;).

#22 5 days ago
Quoted from CyberNinja24:

I am now having issues with my ball trough on gnr. I adjust the arms of the six switches along with the switch close to the ball launch. This fixes the issue for the short term, but inivedably the issues come back. Order all new switches? I don't mind putting money into it and getting it fixed. Gnr might be my favorite game and I need her running on all cylinders. Any suggestions are appreciated.

I double checked and if you ordered all new parts from pinballlife.com (6 rollover switches (180-5119-02) + 1 trough switch (180-5118-00) + 10 1N4004 Diodes it'll be about $35 shipped. I would shotgun the whole trough and the beat down 22 year old switches and be done with it forever. Note that you will still may need to adjust the metal armature on the VUK switch like I did but it's been 100% solid since.

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