Sana'a
Quoted from xsvtoys:something something rettesoft something .hu
something
yep, that's the one
Good job!
(Topic ID: 33446)
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Hi All,
Here's a question that I haven't seen the answer to in the thread. How do you clean your HPLV gun after spraying 2PAC?
-TIA
-W
Tyngsborough, MA
Quoted from DropTarget:Hi All,
Here's a question that I haven't seen the answer to in the thread. How do you clean your HPLV gun after spraying 2PAC?
-TIA
-W
Lacquer thinner.
Quoted from vid1900:Overlay the new font letters on top of the playfield scan in a new layer.
If the letters are arched like this example, you can Rotate each letter or use the "Warp Text" function.
Remember that font size can be fractional, so your font might be 28.6 size rather than just plain old 28. Take your time a get it exactly right.
This font was identified as: Omnibus.
Next, draw the Keyline that goes around the lighted insert. Hold the SHIFT key down as you use the circle tool and overlap the outside of the original circle (this makes a "perfect" circle). Then hit the Subtract button and draw the inner circle. This "cuts out" the center of the first circle.
Unview the background image and check your work.
If it's your first time, the above will take you 20 minutes. If you've used photo programs in the past, it will be less than 5 minutes of work.
Hey Vid, I just submitted the 5000 w/lit to what the font and I came up as no close matches. I also looked on myfonts and the omnibus (may have been different 4 years ago) does not look the same at all.
Any ideas?
**EDIT** on pickafont.com omnibus looks exact. Weird a google search shows that omnibus font changes alot with the website but i was able to get the correct one.
Vid, I just laid down my third coat of clear after flattening the play field. Decals are next. My question is how long is long enough for the clear to cure before doing the decals? If I want to spray ASAP so I do t have to sand, obviously there is a window between when I can do the decals, and when is too late to spray the clear without sanding. The SprayMax I’m using says it has a flash time of 12 hours at 60 deg F, close to what it is here now, if that helps.
Alternatively, this paragraph from your guide is intriguing:
“Since you need to clear coat over the decals, sand the whole playfield down to 1000 grit so the next layer of clear has some "tooth" to adhere to. Since you can't sand the decals, you need to do this BEFORE you install them.”
Does that mean I can place decals over a 1000 grit sanded, napthaed, and then tack clothed playfield? Or am I reading that wrong?
Here is another, more urgent question: apparently, a few bubbles I thought I got rid of created pin-sized holes in my new clear coat. I payed it down about 3 hours ago: can I use a toothpick or something with 2PAC to fill them in and have it melt right in?
Quoted from vid1900:It's probably going to require more work than you think.
First, use some Naphtha to see how that lane is going to look with a coating on it.
The stains may instantly become much more apparent.
If you can't sand the staining out, then you have to paint over it, blending it in.
Once you have a nice looking shooter lane, you can just brush some oil based poly to protect it.
Does the oil based poly apply to all eras of games? This is a Cleopatra that I'd like to protect the shooter lane a bit, but not qualified for a real resto. This kind of poly?
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I'm lining up my projects for winter, and am taking a deep breath before attempting to restore my F-14 playfield.
I'm resigned to replacing all the inserts; was there ever a resolution on what plastic primer is easily available? I remember way back in this thread people were having trouble locating it or a suitable alternative to the 3M primer Vid recommends.
Also, PPS has, in addition to a complete set of inserts, also a set of insert decals which are precut peel-and-stick. You can get them non-laminated, which is great. I'm wondering if anyone has used them? Would you recommend them? Presumably they are a bit thicker than paterslide.
I'm fine with printing waterslides, but there is a LOT of careful cutting involved by the time you replace all those arrows. Time savings is worth considering.
Quoted from aobrien5:Does the oil based poly apply to all eras of games? This is a Cleopatra that I'd like to protect the shooter lane a bit, but not qualified for a real resto. This kind of poly?
That poly turns even more yellow than the water based stuff, but it's fine for shooter lane.
Remember you still have to sand so the new poly has some tooth.
If you have bare wood, thin the first coat of poly 50%, then do the following coats full strength.
Quoted from sethbenjamin:I'm resigned to replacing all the inserts; was there ever a resolution on what plastic primer is easily available? I remember way back in this thread people were having trouble locating it or a suitable alternative to the 3M primer Vid recommends.
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-LOC-18396-Bottle-Cyanoacrylate-Adhesive/dp/B001OBQ8VO
Ok, need what I hope is a quick answer here: I just laid down my decals over my last clear layer. That was 3 PM (for the clear). I'm getting up at 7, less than 24 hours after the last clear. I plan to just shoot right over it, so I don't have to sand around the decals. Question is: I should NOT use naphtha this time, just a tack cloth, right? The naphtha I figure would destroy the decals. Also, the little water spots on the play field from putting the decals on: leave them, or attempt to wipe up with a wet towel?
Limassol
First of all A big thanks to Vid and all others helping less experienced pinball owners like myself to restore their machines (| I have gone through this thread more than infinite times !!!) !
I bought a Fast Draw a couple of months ago , and after sorting out its mechanical problems I feel competent enough to attempt a full playfield restore. It will need a loooooot of work , as you can see , but I have the dedication to do it , regardless of time needed.
I was going to clean with Naphtha , ME + alcohol , epoxy glue the inserts , Key-lines , eye drop 2PAC into cupped inserts and deep playfield recessions/bare wood , light 2PAC , sand , decals , and final clear. After seeing the color under the posts removed though , I decided that I must airbrush most of the playfield , since trying to remove gray stuff with ME+alcohol is mostly removing paint !
I need some help with that deep line/crack on the top of the playfield. I will sand and shellac before clearing but how should I deal with that crack , especially cosmetically ?
Also the draining ball hole needs to be patched up .. should I use a ring as a mold and fill with a kind of wood epoxy ?
I am sure this is going to keep me busy me for many many nights 
Quoted from La_Porta:Ok, need what I hope is a quick answer here: I just laid down my decals over my last clear layer. That was 3 PM (for the clear). I'm getting up at 7, less than 24 hours after the last clear. I plan to just shoot right over it, so I don't have to sand around the decals. Question is: I should NOT use naphtha this time, just a tack cloth, right? The naphtha I figure would destroy the decals. Also, the little water spots on the play field from putting the decals on: leave them, or attempt to wipe up with a wet towel?
Naphtha is oil and wax remover.
It will remove any water spots or fingerprints, but you don't have to wipe the whole playfield - just local problems.
Quoted from phototamer:I need some help with that deep line/crack on the top of the playfield. I will sand and shellac before clearing but how should I deal with that crack , especially cosmetically ?
Use dental pick and clean out wax/crud.
Fill crack with 2pac when you fill the inserts.
When you are painting the shooter lane, touch up the crack with 0000 brush.
go buy a new can of lacquer. You want to lacquer freshly sanded shooter lanes anyway. Lacquer will make the wood colorize more closely with the original lacquer. Before you clear anything. It blends freshly sanded areas with the old stuff much better than going right to clears.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:go buy a new can of lacquer. You want to lacquer freshly sanded shooter lanes anyway. Lacquer will make the wood colorize more closely with the original lacquer. Before you clear anything. It blends freshly sanded areas with the old stuff much better than going right to clears.
Will do. Anything to know about what to buy? Still need to thin first coat?
just brush it on. It will soak in. Don't have to go too thick. You are just sealing the wood and getting it to take on that color that matches original wood lacquer areas. Let dry 24 hours and use whatever clear you want from that point on.
Quoted from CaptainNeo:just brush it on. It will soak in. Don't have to go too thick. You are just sealing the wood and getting it to take on that color that matches original wood lacquer areas. Let dry 24 hours and use whatever clear you want from that point on.
So I still need to poly it after lacquering? Looks good so far.
if you were going to poly the whole thing. Otherwise you don't have to. The lacquer was just to get the wood to colorize like the original. Poly would have made it go really dark and look out of place.
Is there an online source for lacquer for folks like myself who live in laquer free parts of the world?
First, I would like to thank Vid and all others that have helped me thus far on my play field restoration. I am virtually done as of now, and I couldn't have made it this far without all of you.
Decals are placed, last coat of clear is on. The only issues I have are very, very tiny specs that I think are microscopic bubbles that have lifted up on two or three of the decals. You can see them in the last two pictures (one is the "SHIELD ON" indicator; the other is the right outline "S"). Do you think I can leave them as-is, and they will be ground down by ball motion, or should I fix them? If fix, can I use miniature sanding pads/novus to just spot fix them, or do I need to do the whole play field flattening/buffing routine? If the latter, I'd probably farm it out to a body shop!
Lastly, is the last coat too thick in everyone's opinion, or is it just right?
I am very pleased with the results. Again, Vid, I could not have done all of this work without your guide and your expertise. Thank you again!
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Quoted from La_Porta:The only issues I have are very, very tiny specs that I think are microscopic bubbles that have lifted up on two or three of the decals.
Microscopic bubbles are probably never going to be noticed by anyone other than you.
They won't affect game play.
At some point, you have to call it done, polish it out, and start enjoying it!
Quoted from La_Porta:Decals are placed, last coat of clear is on
Great job! where are the decals? . One of these days I'll be brave enough to do this to my Firepower.
Quoted from vid1900:Your final sand and polish will make everything flat.
I'm in the same place. final sand with what grit and progress to what?1000, 2000 2500 then polishes? thanks
Quoted from tonycip:I'm in the same place. final sand with what grit and progress to what?1000, 2000 2500 then polishes? thanks
Is it possible to do those grits straight by hand, then do the polish with novus 2 and 1? I know I’ve done that on my car before and it worked well.
Quoted from La_Porta:Is it possible to do those grits straight by hand, then do the polish with novus 2 and 1? I know I’ve done that on my car before and it worked well.
You could do those grits by hand, but it would be worth the $ for a sander in about 5 minutes.
Novus1 is not a polish, so stick to Novus2.
I'll see...I do have a sander, im just deathly afraid of cutting all the way through. Kind of hard to do at 2000 grit though, I suppose.
ok, Vid and Neo, and well, e1 else has inspired me (shame on you).
I'm about to start my 1st full PF restoration, I'm sure that I will have lots of questions, so I hope ya'll, yes I said ya'll and I'm not even southern, will bear with me.
1st, yes I've read about the downsides of Varathane, but is there a way to use auto clear and have an EM still look like an EM?
2nd (or maybe 1st) here are some pics of the PF as it stands, I just started to dismantle it tonight. Are there any suggestions about how to proceed with this one? I plan on using my Silhouette cutter to create stencils for airbrushing. FYI, The inserts are all glued in well, but cupped just a bit. As you can probably see, lots of planking.
Thanks for the inspiration.
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Quoted from DropTarget:1st, yes I've read about the downsides of Varathane, but is there a way to use auto clear and have an EM still look like an EM?
You can raise or lower the gloss with compound.
Don't even think of using Varathane, it's crap.
Quoted from vid1900:You can raise or lower the gloss with compound.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/27#post-1986492
Don't even think of using Varathane, it's crap.
Thanks, I kind of thought you'd say that about Varathane. Any suggestions on where / how to start on this PF?
Quoted from vid1900:There are probably only 50 of those games left on the planet, so the first thing to do is decide if you want to cut your teeth on such a rare game.
I know. That's why I was thinking of using the clear that shall not be mentioned, so it can be removed if I screw things up.
But this PF has been bugging me since I got it, over 10 years ago. I've remade the plastics and backglass. The cabinet is in need of paint as well.
Quoted from DropTarget:I know. That's why I was thinking of using the clear that shall not be mentioned, so it can be removed if I screw things up.
But this PF has been bugging me since I got it, over 10 years ago. I've remade the plastics and backglass. The cabinet is in need of paint as well.
No offense. But if it is that rare. Would it not be best to just send it to a professional restorer?
Quoted from tezting:No offense. But if it is that rare. Would it not be best to just send it to a professional restorer?
agreed, that does not look like an easy restore to try on your first try. No matter what anyone thinks, there is a long learning curve to doing this.
Quoted from NYP:there is a long learning curve to doing this.
x10 !!
Quoted from tezting:No offense. But if it is that rare. Would it not be best to just send it to a professional restorer?
The value of the machine doesn't justify the cost of a professional restore.
Quoted from NYP:agreed, that does not look like an easy restore to try on your first try. No matter what anyone thinks, there is a long learning curve to doing this.
It took me a lot of reading, breathing, sighing, re-doing, and praying to get the results I did.
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