(Topic ID: 33446)

Vid's Guide to Ultimate Playfield Restoration

By vid1900

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

143 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 8,789 posts in this topic. You are on page 7 of 176.
#301 10 years ago
Quoted from MrWizzo:

There are a couple red inserts, but mostly white and yellow. Sure to be available at PBR. I would plan on changing them all if I did any. The artwork on all the vintage inserts is almost perfect, but I would bet that some Gottlieb guys out there have the lettering and graphics already scanned, but it would a good project for me as I have yet to change inserts.

Yes, PBR has very fair prices on inserts (.50 cents can't be beat).

I see some of the inserts have red letters on them, so you need a color laser for those decals.

Quoted from MrWizzo:

Trying to level them with clear seems more daunting than changing inserts, never having done either.

You go either way with a little less effort on filling the cupped inserts, but if the keylining is worn, I'd probably just change the inserts at the same time.

#303 10 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

Vid, maybe you'd like to tackle my Fireball playfield. You do such nice work and I'm in no hurry.
o-din

I'm swamped with work right now, but keep in touch.

How worn is the big digital "planet" above the flippers?

#304 10 years ago

How worn is the big digital "planet" above the flippers?

See for yourself! Does it look salvageable or should I seek a replacement?

DSCN1435.JPGDSCN1435.JPG

#305 10 years ago

Lots of work to fix that one, but honestly it looks pretty typical for that title.

I'm trying to get a guy who has a NOS Fireball EM playfield to let me rent it from him so I can get it scanned for CPR. He has the only one I've ever heard of and paid big money to buy it.

If you can't wait, Ron Kruzman did one of those a few months ago and it turned out great. You might hit him up while he still has the florescent orange paint on his workbench.

#306 10 years ago

Thanks vid, I was almost embarrassed to post that pic, it does have some minor planking. But, here we are with what in my opinion, and from what I've read, you and others would agree, one of the greatest tables ever made. Yet there hasn't been a replacement playfield made, so we make do and salvage what we can. I'll keep it running and see what happens.
Thanks, o-din

#307 10 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

I was almost embarrassed to post that pic,

Nothing to be embarrassed about. Probably 70% of those tables look just like yours does.

#308 10 years ago

I'm just happy to have one.

#309 10 years ago
Quoted from o-din:

I'm just happy to have one.

Rub it in o-din! Rub it in...

#310 10 years ago

One more question, vid. Is that planking terminal? I mean repairable. And if so will it last?

#311 10 years ago

I would love to do a full product DVD on this process. However, I would want someone who really really knows how to do it like this guy. I have seen some pretty poor attempts. In the video would include what type of paints to go with and really nice clear coating like HSA does. Just an idea.

#312 10 years ago

This thread just gets better and better. Thanks for all your hard work vid.

#313 10 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

. When I say melt, I mean destroyed; the effect is not subtle.

Do you have any pictures of melted decals?

#314 10 years ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

So, I can see how doing the outside of an insert is possible - a circular one. Put the circle template that matches the outside.

But how do you get a perfect circle on the inside of the circle??

Any ideas??

Those metal circle templates have the inside circle sizes too, so you cut the frisket for the outside circle, don't peel it off, then select and cut the inner circle.

Now, only remove the "ring" of frisket and you have both the inner and outer circles.

#315 10 years ago

One more question, vid. Is that planking terminal?

Not at all.

All of this planking and paint loss was completely repaired on this playfield.

The playfield came out way better than new.

I'll show how it's done in an upcoming installment.

1.jpg1.jpg // Error: Image 102573 not found //

#316 10 years ago

For the decals that go on the ball release cover over the instruction cards on TAF, would you put clear coat on those decals? Or leave them bare?

#317 10 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Not at all.

All of this planking and paint loss was completely repaired on this playfield.

That's good news, vid. I was concerned about having that playfield done if it was really beyond repair. I'll keep watching. Your sharing all your great knowledge is really appreciated.

#318 10 years ago
Quoted from angus:

For the decals that go on the ball release cover over the instruction cards on TAF, would you put clear coat on those decals? Or leave them bare?

It depends.

Some decals already have a laminate on them, and others are meant to be cleared.

Ask the vendor you bought them from as to what you need to do.

#319 10 years ago

How do you go about cleaning clear out of the holes? Specifically, the rollover switch slots, lamp holes, and especially the star cutouts for star rollovers? Is there a timeframe where the clear is soft enough to use an exacto? Is there a better tool or procedure you recommend?

#320 10 years ago

Received my Molotow markers yesterday, and used them to do a little touch up around some inserts and some other black areas on my Whirlwind that I'm doing. If they do hold up to clear coating, they will be the cat's pajamas!

#321 10 years ago
Quoted from Pafasa:

How do you go about cleaning clear out of the holes? Specifically, the rollover switch slots, lamp holes, and especially the star cutouts for star rollovers? Is there a timeframe where the clear is soft enough to use an exacto? Is there a better tool or procedure you recommend?

This link from CPR may help you out: http://www.classicplayfields.com/guides.html

#322 10 years ago

Thanks Dewey! There is good info there. Still curious if Vid does anything different.

#323 10 years ago
Quoted from Pafasa:

How do you go about cleaning clear out of the holes? Specifically, the rollover switch slots, lamp holes, and especially the star cutouts for star rollovers?

Usually the clear "wants" to stay out of the holes all by itself. It kind of bunches away from them, rather than roll down the sides.

To keep the clear out of the insides of the lamp sockets you can use old burned out lightbulbs or foam plugs.

Good guide to star rollover here:

http://www.classicplayfields.com/guides.html

Quoted from Pafasa:

Is there a timeframe where the clear is soft enough to use an exacto?

Depends on the brand of clear.

Usually there is a day or so when it's easily sanded, then it gets progressively harder.

#324 10 years ago
Quoted from Dewey68:

If they do hold up to clear coating, they will be the cat's pajamas!

Try it over white paint and keep us posted!

#325 10 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Usually the clear "wants" to stay out of the holes all by itself. It kind of bunches away from them, rather than roll down the sides.
To keep the clear out of the insides of the lamp sockets you can use old burned out lightbulbs or foam plugs.
Good guide to star rollover here:
http://www.classicplayfields.com/guides.html

Depends on the brand of clear.
Usually there is a day or so when it's easily sanded, then it gets progressively harder.

Thanks Vid!

#326 10 years ago

To revisit a question earlier in this thread, you suggested "repairing" insert mylar bubbles by barely piercing the bubble, then heating with a blow dryer. Does the heat actually seal the tiny hole where the mylar was pierced? Is there any concern that the hole would eventually open up and wear larger after extended play?

Terrific thread!

#327 10 years ago

Mylar is pretty tough stuff, so I don't see the "smaller than a pin hole" hole enlarging over time (especially with home use).

The heat will probably not actually seal the hole, it just makes the adhesive grab again.

3 weeks later
#328 10 years ago

Hey,

I'm sorry if this has been covered, but where might a fellow go about finding the 3M plastic primer (what kind of stores)? I thought a hardware or automotive place might have it, but a, not having any luck. Thanks in advance for any advice anyone can offer.

Luke

#329 10 years ago

You probably have a real plastics store that sells the bulletproof plastic to the pizza joints and banks in any larger city.

Look under "Plastics - Sheet Goods".

#330 10 years ago

Thanks; that's what I needed to know.

Luke

#331 10 years ago

Just to give some background, my FT was in a building next to a fire and had some smoke damage. Everything looks okay minus the playfield. In addition to the normal fish wear, it seems like almost every insert has a grove around their perimeter. These fish have peeling decals the the previous owner put on. The photo isnt too great, but you can see on the bonus multipliers and the tackle inserts have this grove. The inserts dont seemed raised at all though.

I really want to make this game nice so would you recommend just buying the CPR pf or trying to restore it or have it restored? Ive never done anything like this before so Im leaning towards the cpr pf. Thanks!

pinside.jpgpinside.jpg

#332 10 years ago

Pretty much all FTs look something like that (and many are much worse).

If you are uncertain about your abilities, then you should get the CPR.

Then you can sell the old playfield, or keep it to work on another day, as your skills increase. That would not be the most difficult repair, but probably not the one you want for your first shot at it.

#333 10 years ago

CPR FT pfs are likely over 1 year out I was told.

#334 10 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Pretty much all FTs look something like that (and many are much worse).
If you are uncertain about your abilities, then you should get the CPR.
Then you can sell the old playfield, or keep it to work on another day, as your skills increase. That would not be the most difficult repair, but probably not the one you want for your first shot at it.

None of the inserts affect gameplay other than the fish decals, so I guess I can live with it. The decals move around the ball quite a bit. Im not sure if thats because of them peeling up or just the thickness in general. Im thinking about picking up the full stringer and tacklebox from marco to hold me over.

#335 10 years ago

Put a straightedge across them and see if they are raised or sunken.

#336 10 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Put a straightedge across them and see if they are raised or sunken.

Will do. I guess Ill have to level those out before the next decal or it will get torn up. Thanks for the info.

#337 10 years ago

Also, are you sure there are decals installed, or just paint chipping because the inserts are raised?

#338 10 years ago

Im positive they are. The guy told me he put them on and there is a raised border clear around the whole fish, not just the insert.

#339 10 years ago

Adding another voice to the choir saying thanks for putting this together. Such a tremendous wealth of information in this thread.

#340 10 years ago

How to deal with issues in halftone areas ?
Using the F-14 as an example, how do you handle wear or missing paint in the halftone screened area by the pop bumpers ? I believe Hutchins said to punt and fade the paint vs trying to replicate the halftone.

#341 10 years ago

Replicating the half tone is easy.

Scan the area.

In Photoshop (or whatever) remove the background color leaving the dots. Print the dots on water slide decal paper.

On the actual playfield, repaint the affected area the solid background color.

Now simply apply the decal of dots on top of the solid background.

I'll post some pics latter.

#342 10 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Replicating the half tone is easy.
Scan the area.
In Photoshop (or whatever) remove the background color leaving the dots. Print the dots on water slide decal paper.
On the actual playfield, repaint the affected area the solid background color.
Now simply apply the decal of dots on top of the solid background.
I'll post some pics latter.

Smrt!

Do you ever travel through nebraska near Omaha? Let me know and I'll buy you a beer and talk a little photoshop. Strictly for my benefit. I'm sure I have nothing but beer to offer you!!

#343 10 years ago

Great thread Vid.

When cutting the frisket is the aim to cut along the true boundary line or to overspray lighter colors on to the black lines a bit to avoid voids between the colors (then spray black down on its original lines to cover? Or you just cut to the true borders all the time?

Also, where text is painted on the playfield, do you cut around each letter like any other boundary line? Or is it best to recreate a decal and apply that just like you would over an insert?

#344 10 years ago
Quoted from Pafasa:

Do you ever travel through nebraska near Omaha?

I've been there a few times.

I'll let you know the next.

#345 10 years ago

When cutting the frisket is the aim to cut along the true boundary line

Yes, cut the true boundary line.

Frisket gives that perfect edge, take advantage of it.

Use one of those lighted magnifiers to get it right:

image_11371.jpgimage_11371.jpg

#346 10 years ago
Quoted from Hatska1:

Also, where text is painted on the playfield, do you cut around each letter like any other boundary line? Or is it best to recreate a decal and apply that just like you would over an insert?

Use "What the Font" and just print a decal.

You can waste a lot of time and still get 1/2 assed results trying to cut around a bunch of fine text.

#347 10 years ago

cant seem to find a font for spirit ring insert on ToM.. tried using "What the Font"... No luck. Suggestions??

#348 10 years ago

Scan it, and post the pic here.

#349 10 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Also, are you sure there are decals installed, or just paint chipping because the inserts are raised?

Im thinking about re decaling the tacklebox area and using one of these protectors as a temporary solution until I can get my hands on a CPR pf. Im not really sure how crazy the gameplay will be though.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-protector-full-sheet-plastic

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-FT-PF-PROTECTOR&Store_Code=BAA

#350 10 years ago

http://www.whatfontis.com/

Another great site for identifying fonts. Make sure the text is black and the background is white, or vice-versa. If it is reversed, there's a radio button that needs to be checked denoting that.

Still, post a pic here if you get the chance.

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