(Topic ID: 284708)

Williams Blackout Repair

By Flip-it-good

3 years ago


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#66 3 years ago
Quoted from Flip-it-good:

Does anybody have a Williams Blackout schematic? I downloaded one and I'm trying to find resistors R205 through R210 on the Driver board. The ones that are there look pretty toasted so I wanted to replace them but nowhere to the right of the schematic where it shows the parts list can I find anything listed past R203! Thanks all! S

Are you sure you have the correct resistor numbers there? It would be really shocking if those resistors were toasted. Maybe post a picture of the toasted resistors. Maybe they are just dirty?

https://www.ipdb.org/files/317/Williams_1980_Blackout_Schematics_pages_numbered_7_through_22.pdf

The resistors are listed at the bottom of the table on page 4

#78 3 years ago

Row 4 appears to be locked on. Check IC19, Q52 and Q53 to make sure there isn't solder splash on them. Check the legs of Q52 to make sure they didn't get twisted and are touching. Diode check Q52 and Q53 and compare to the others in the area. Check R116 to make sure it is still soldered in place properly.

Those resistors get very hot and is why your board is scorched in that area (common with games of this era with lots of hours). If you want to eliminate the heat there, you can replace the transistors in the lamp matrix with MOSFETS.

#81 3 years ago

Did this problem start before or after you replaced the header pins on J7? Can you inspect those header pins (particularly pin 4) for shorted pins, large solder blobs that might be contacting the mounting bracket in the backbox. Make sure you have the CPU and driver boards physically installed properly.

#83 3 years ago

That is the mystery. Nothing comes to mind that you could do to the switch matrix that could cause a problem with the lamp matrix. The circuits are very un-related.

#87 3 years ago
Quoted from pincoder:

IC10 Pin 5 could be the culprit. It's one of the shady AMI brand chips.. the bad news is none of the PIAs on that board are socketed and I'm going to assume you don't have the tools to remove the chips without damaging them.
If you did have a proper heat gun and an IC puller you could remove IC10 and at least one other PIA, put sockets in their place, and then *swap them* back in to see if the problem moves to the other set of circuits.
Also, removing 40 pic chips in this fashion is still a delicate process. If you decide to go this way you should practice on a junk board to get the hang of it.

I noticed the AMI PIAs too.

Quoted from gdonovan:

Old electronics can get pissy at times when provoked.

Seems like a really odd coincidence that the PIA would give up the ghost at this exact moment, but that could be it.

Quoted from Flip-it-good:

Machine ran fine after installing all the header pins. I took a look at some of those switch resistors and they look burned so I took the board back out replaced them with ones with incorrect value. They were 1 ohm 1/4 watt instead of 1K ohm 1/4 watt. That's when the weirdness happened. I turned the machine off and I immediately took them out and put the old ones back it. I called the guy I bought them from and he verified the error. I don't know what the Ohm difference would cause and I hope that didn't cause any issues anywhere. I have a piece of vinyl tape against the back box where the driver board top touches the back. I'll check J7 pin 4 area...

Maybe take the board set to your friend that tested them out originally and ask him to see why Row 4 of the lamp matrix is locked on.

#92 3 years ago
Quoted from Flip-it-good:

Okay here's an update I ordered the new 40 pin PIA chip it should be here tomorrow. The 40 pin socket that will make it a breeze to replace arrived today. I have posted another video YouTube link below and I would like someone to take a look at it before I replace this PIA 40 pin chip. I was underneath the playfield today at the suggestion of many pinsiders to see if anything diode related on the lamp bases was twisted or touching something else and I did find a couple that were twisted and jammed in there. I straightened them out and it seems like now most of the feature lighting is correct during attract mode and gameplay. I just wanted someone to look at this before I replace the pia chip unnecessarily. I can always keep it aside just in case for future use...any opinions on this would be very welcomed...thanks everyone...Scott

Do not replace the PIA. All your feature lamps are working properly so the PIA is fine.

Are all the 100s and 1000s digits out on all the displays or just player 1? If it's just player 1, swap the displays between player 1 and say player 4 to see if the problem follows the display. It looks like your display may be outgassed (worn out) but if all your displays are doing the same or if the display works fine in another position, the problem is likely on the master board or connections somewhere.

#99 3 years ago

Please measure the power supply voltage to the displays. Power Board connector J5 (upper far left 6 pin connector). The left-most pin is Pin 1

Meter on DC - black lead to ground.

Pin 1 : 0V (ground)
Pin 2 : not used
Pin 3 : -100V
Pin 4 : +100V
Pin 5 : Key (not used)
Pin 6 : 5V

Be careful, this is high voltage stuff.

#101 3 years ago
Quoted from Flip-it-good:

Yes, Pin 1=0. Pin 3= -100.5v. Pin 4= 93.3vdc and Pin 5 is exactly 5 volts. Pin 4 is lower because I replaced the diode in the power supply to try and add some life to the displays I have with slightly less voltage. Can't even tell. Displays are bright once they warm up and all digits are on.

If you modded the power supply then both the positive and negative supplies should be reduced to 91ish. Did you replace both ZR2 and ZR4 with 91V zeners?

#107 3 years ago
Quoted from Flip-it-good:

Yes, Pin 1=0. Pin 3= -100.5v. Pin 4= 93.3vdc and Pin 5 is exactly 5 volts. Pin 4 is lower because I replaced the diode in the power supply to try and add some life to the displays I have with slightly less voltage. Can't even tell. Displays are bright once they warm up and all digits are on.

ZR1 on the MDB reduces the 100V supply an additional 10V. So in essence the circuit is seeing +80V and -100V which is a spread of 20V as opposed to the normal 10V. I know later plasma DMDs have troubles if their supply voltages are out of spec. Wonder if a similar situation applies to earlier numeric display?

Can you put the 100V zener back in the positive 100v power supply or lower the -100 supply by installing a 91V zener?

#109 3 years ago

Which one, there are 2 of them?

One drives the MDB display and players 1 and 2 and the other players 3 and 4? If the displays are exhibiting the same problem no matter which position they are connected, its very unlikely that both these chips failed in the same way.

Can you connect one of your displays to the player 3 or 4 cable and double check it they both still have the same problem? That will help narrow this down.

In any event, you should reflow the solder to the suspect chip before replacing it. Heat related changes can be caused by cold solder joints.

2 weeks later
#117 3 years ago

IC5 is very close to that connector. It is possible you are heating it up just as much as the connector. IC5 is the BCD decoder for P1, P2 and Master. Maybe reflow solder to IC5. Of course, IC5 would only be the problem if the condition is limited to P1, P2 and the master and P3 and P4 work perfectly.

#130 3 years ago
Quoted from Flip-it-good:

Well, what do you know...I just happen to have one of these chips laying around in my goodie box! It's an MC6821P which I believe will work in place of the Williams 5A-8972 PIA. This should take care of the lighting issues too... It was brought to my attention that this chip sits right next to the decoder chip that's causing the display issues and the heat from the hair dryer was probably helping with the weak lighting on a cold startup....
[quoted image]

IC18 could be your display issue just as much as IC6 could be it.

Not sure how IC18 (6821) would effect your lamp matrix issue unless it is corrupting the data bus or something. Can you or someone explain the thought process there?

#135 3 years ago
Quoted from Flip-it-good:

Fantastic. New PIA chip re-installed. Attract mode active. Game boots and plays. Removed AA batteries during chip install. Game reverted back to factory settings as you predicted. On-Off-On power switch quickly did the trick.
While I'm waiting for the decoder chip to arrive, heres a knocker mod that was suggested to me. Apparently Williams knockers are not very loud when you drop a coin or get a free game...and I am so used to my Bally Paragon splitting my eardrums when the knocker fires!
I removed the knocker assembly from its original position, laid it on its side, installed a flipper return spring to bring the plunger back to the bottom after it fires and bought a coil that had 100 less windings. Then, mounted the bracket tight against the inside cabinet wall on top of the front cabinet support beam for the best sound resonance... It's loud!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Holy cow that game is in great shape! I've never seen the brass parts that clean and shiny as well as the cleanliness of the cabinet.

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