(Topic ID: 29731)

Vid's GUIDE To Rebuilding Pop Bumpers

By vid1900

11 years ago


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  • 171 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 60 days ago by vid1900
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    Topic index (key posts)

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    Post #183 Bally 80’s pop bumper rebuild Posted by vid1900 (9 years ago)

    Post #407 Recommendation for stapler Posted by vid1900 (7 years ago)

    Post #536 Link to a great video for people who are new to pop bumpers. Posted by Axl (5 years ago)


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    #163 9 years ago

    vid, the rods on my ring move. There is no wear, but I see some of the pics in the thread and I'm wondering if they should be fixed (stationary)? For example, if I hold the ring and give it a shake the rods will wiggle around. Should they?

    #166 9 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    Sounds like your rods are worn out.
    You can peen over the tops of the rods to try and firm them up, but for a few bucks, it's probably best to just replace them with new ones.

    They look fine. Are the rods supposed to be welded to the ring?

    #168 9 years ago

    Thanks. Just seems like a waste to throw it out. The metal is in perfect condition. Shined up nicely in the tumbler.

    What benefit does the "riveting" provide? The solenoid pulls down on both rods at the same time which in turn brings the ring down evenly. When the solenoid releases and resets I'm guessing the ring just rattles a little more and makes unnecessary noise?

    #170 9 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    When the Pop Bumper is at rest, we want the Solenoid Switch to have a very small gap so that the Bumper has a "hair trigger" (this reference comes from fire arms, where a small amount of force (I guess a human hair) can set off the firing pin).
    On a pinball game, we want the slightest amount of force to trigger the bumpers so they are VERY lively.
    When the game is powered on, pound on the playfield a few times and make sure that the Pop Bumpers do not activate from vibration alone.
    24.jpg 35 KB

    Hi vid,

    I reassembled my first pop bumper last night. I replaced the cap, ring/rod assembly, body, skirt, spring and base. My spoon was fine so I just cleaned it up and reused it. No track marks of any kind.

    I soldered everything back in and tested the bumper out. It fired the very first time! It fired every time the ball touched the skirt! Wicked!

    I did have one question though, with regards to the "liveliness" of the bumper. The reason I rebuilt my bumper in the first place was because I didn't find it very lively. If the gap on the solenoid switch is not very small, what is the best way to adjust it?

    #173 9 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1518
    This tool is not too durable, so use it gently, but it works great

    Uh... how do I use this? I take it not like a hammer.

    #176 9 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    You put the leaf into one of the slots and GENTLY bend it so you close the switch gap.

    Ahhh.... I didn't see the little 'cuts' in the ends of the tool before. That makes much more sense now. Thank you.

    1 month later
    #200 9 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    You might have to adjust the Scoring Switch gap.

    ^^^ This is correct. I had the exact same error not even two weeks ago. The Scoring Switch was touching together. Make sure it is normally open. To do this just bend it. I used non-serated pliers to correct it.

    #203 9 years ago
    Quoted from Ed731:

    Yes that worked. But now the pop bumper does nothing. Diagnostics reveals no switch or solenoid actions. How do I test for power to the solenoid? Is there a forum thread on testing?

    Are you sure you adjusted the right one? This is how it should look;

    [EDIT] Crap, how do I quote an image? Here is the direct link to the image;
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers#post-486047

    You adjusted the scoring switch, not the solenoid switch correct?

    #205 9 years ago

    What are the readings you are getting with the volt meter?

    #207 9 years ago

    Ground the black test lead, and the touch the red test lead to each of the solenoid connections. See if you are getting any power at all.

    This is taking us off topic. PM me if you would like help. I'll do what I can.

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