(Topic ID: 325134)

Strange issue with lighting on classic Stern Freefall

By dunkaroo

1 year ago


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  • 19 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by dothedoo
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#1 1 year ago

Hey everyone! So I'm refurbishing an old Stern Free Fall from the early 80's. Some of the bulbs and connections were loose, so I've been methodically replacing them as I clean up the playfield. On the rear "D" light, I've run into a strange issue -- the bulb works, and the socket works, but the light won't come on. However, when I place a soldering iron where the bottom lead wire comes in, it will light up. Every other light on this machine works, but this one is being stubborn. Any suggestions? Thanks!

#2 1 year ago

Replace the socket

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Replace the socket

Yeah, my plan is to replace all of the lights with Yoppsicles, but I'd like to understand what exactly is actually happening.

#4 1 year ago

I re-read your post. Are you sure the lamp driver board is good and sending a ground signal to the bulb?

If you soldering iron is plugged in, its possible the tip is at ground, which causes the light to illuminate. The braid is the source power, and the wire is the switched ground.

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from dunkaroo:

Yeah, my plan is to replace all of the lights with Yoppsicles, but I'd like to understand what exactly is actually happening.

The take away is Classic Bally/Sterns lights are fucking horrible! They just are. Sockets are cheap as shit, replacing them doesn't always work, sometimes wiggling them fixes everything

As Billc above says, note which connection does what. If you mean soldering iron on the power braid makes it work = socket.
If on the ground then issue coming from the board. You can use a wire & jumper any other ground on a socket that works and see if it makes this socket work = ground.
Classic Stern...probably both...sometimes Just throw the Yopp in now.

#6 1 year ago
Quoted from Billc479:

I re-read your post. Are you sure the lamp driver board is good and sending a ground signal to the bulb?
If you soldering iron is plugged in, its possible the tip is at ground, which causes the light to illuminate. The braid is the source power, and the wire is the switched ground.

Every other light on the machine works fine. It happens whether or not the soldering iron is plugged in, however it won't do the same with a normal ground, either from a multimeter or another source. I also moved the socket to a different area, and same issue, which means something crazy is going on with the actual socket I suppose. I...honestly have no idea.

#7 1 year ago

I like my games to look modern and factory at the same time. I want LEDs but am going for the factory look. For that reason, I don't use Yoppsicles. The sockets The Pinball Resource sells are the best replacements available if you want to go sockets. I just replaced every socket in my Star Gazer. Every single LED worked first try. I didn't need to fuss with anything. It costs a little more to do it this way, but I feel the end result is better.
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#8 1 year ago
Quoted from dunkaroo:

...I also moved the socket to a different area, and same issue, which means something crazy is going on with the actual socket I suppose. I...honestly have no idea.

Not crazy, just standard socket stuff. There's a space/wafer that goes betwixt the socket and the body that keeps them isolated from each other. These go bad over time.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

I like my games to look modern and factory at the same time. I want LEDs but am going for the factory look. For that reason, I don't use Yoppsicles. The sockets The Pinball Resource sells are the best replacements available if you want to go sockets. I just replaced every socket in my Star Gazer. Every single LED worked first try. I didn't need to fuss with anything. It costs a little more to do it this way, but I feel the end result is better.

You don't happen to have any pictures of what they look like once installed, do you? I'm going for the same thing. I want it to be a bit brighter than factory, since I've found older Bally/Stern games run a bit dim, but I don't want to lose that retro feeling.

#10 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Not crazy, just standard socket stuff. There's a space/wafer that goes betwixt the socket and the body that keeps them isolated from each other. These go bad over time.

I appreciate this insight. I'll check the wafer. Stuff like this tends to bother me forever if I don't at least understand *why* it's doing what it's doing.

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from dunkaroo:

You don't happen to have any pictures of what they look like once installed, do you? I'm going for the same thing. I want it to be a bit brighter than factory, since I've found older Bally/Stern games run a bit dim, but I don't want to lose that retro feeling.

I added some photos.

#12 1 year ago

Either way works well, personal preference.
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Look, even with Yopps there's a lamp out

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Either way works well, personal preference.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Look, even with Yopps there's a lamp out

Hah! Did you just use warm white? Or yellow? Or mixed colors?

#14 1 year ago

I actually like how the Yoppsicles light up a frosted lens. The clear ones look a little funny in my opinion.

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from dunkaroo:

Hah! Did you just use warm white? Or yellow? Or mixed colors?

All Warm White Yopps; And if you go Sockets my advise is to go all warm white.

#16 1 year ago

I replaced the problematic socket strips in my Freefall with yoppsicles. I could’ve used regular sockets with LEDs since I’m using an Alltek lamp driver, but being close to the edge on one side and close to the ball walker mech on the other, it was cleaner to go with the yoppsicles.
I’ve since bought 555 boards to replace them so I can reuse the yoppsicles for another project where a LED lamp driver board is not an option.
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#17 1 year ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

All Warm White Yopps; And if you go Sockets my advise is to go all warm white.

I agree, with one addition. Under translucent blue inserts (like the spinner and right stand up on Freefall), I use Comet ice blue to really make them pop without being "too" blue.

#18 1 year ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

I replaced the problematic socket strips in my Freefall with yoppsicles. I could’ve used regular sockets with LEDs since I’m using an Alltek lamp driver, but being close to the edge on one side and close to the ball walker mech on the other, it was cleaner to go with the yoppsicles.
I’ve since bought 555 boards to replace them so I can reuse the yoppsicles for another project where a LED lamp driver board is not an option.
[quoted image]

This answers a question I had about how the Yopps would do on the SKYDIVERS portion of the playfield, and that answers it! Do you have a post about your FreeFall?

#19 1 year ago

No I didn’t make a restoration thread. I was late getting started on it for TPF 2020 and it was A LOT more work than I anticipated. Could’ve made one after the show was canceled, I suppose.

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