Lost World
Bally, 1978You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider thedefog.
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In my experiences, the decoupling caps usually always need to be replaced on old Bally games, especially the green ones. I believe they are .047uf most the time, it should list it in the schematic. Wouldn't hurt to replace them, spruce up your solder joints on switches at the same time. That, and ceramic disc caps are dirt cheap.
Quoted from vid1900:You can get 100 of those caps for .90 cents:
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/capacitors/ceramic-disc-capacitors/10-x-0-047uf-50v-ceramic-disc-capacitor-pkg-of-10.html
Yup.^--- may as well hit up Tayda for other crucials while you're at it. They stock SCRs too.
Quoted from Raff:I have a few of this caps missing on my ballys Star Trek switch's ,the caps that are on there are .05 12 v can I use 0.1 50 v or
is 50 v too high
It will simply make the delay longer on the debounce with 0.1uf, we're talking milliseconds though, so I guess it wouldn't hurt to try one. It all depends on the speed of the strobe really. I doubt it'll make much difference if that is what you have on hand, but I'm not 100% certain there.
Quoted from dasvis:Look at it this way, if Bally could have saved money by leaving them on off, then they would not be the there in the first place.
Replace ANY capacitor if it"s more than 10 years old, & always re-pin ALL of the connectors on early Bally SS pins. It's a lot of work, but will save your sanity in chasing down issues.
Only elecrolytics and sometime tantalums need to be replaced over time. No need with Ceramic & Poly caps.
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Franklin, VA