(Topic ID: 348971)

Help with PinBot flipper replacement

By Snowman77

4 months ago



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  • 9 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by Snowman77
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#1 4 months ago

Hoping someone here can please help me. I am about as new with this as anyone could possibly get, but not new to mechanical and electrical troubleshooting. I just replaced the right flipper assembly on my pin bot. I bought the complete assembly that included the lane change switches, now that it’s replaced, the game is doing a bunch of odd things. If I hit the right flipper, the game registers points if I hit the left flipper it tilts. If I hit the far left lane switch, it adds a credit to the game, and if I hit the far right lane switch, it ends the game. Any help is greatly appreciated.

#2 4 months ago
Quoted from Snowman77:

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hopefully you had pictures or notes, if it was okay before you worked on it.

Sounds like you wired it wrong, if a diode is on the switch be sure the silver band end is facing the right direction.

LTG : )

#3 4 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Sounds like you wired it wrong, if a diode is on the switch be sure the silver band end is facing the right direction.
LTG : )

I moved the wires over one at a time, but still managed to put them in the wrong place on the aux switches. I’m confident I have them in the right place now, and I’m confident the diodes are correct.

The switches seem fairly straightforward, one is normally closed and it opens and the other one closes at eos. I see there is a procedure to set the gaps in the manual, but I have my doubts that’s the problem. I have a feeling I shorted something out when the wiring was wrong.

#4 4 months ago

If you think you killed something, remove the balls and go into switch test. Follow the manual, you're looking for closed switches that should not be closed and duplicate switch events when one switch is closed.

Make note of any issues with the switches, and look on the switch matrix map to see if there's a pattern of bad switches either horizontally or vertically - that will give a starting point for continued troubleshooting.

Unrelated, but did you clean the new switches in case there was any oils on them from the manufacturing process?

#5 4 months ago

Post a picture of your mechs with good view of the wiring.

Depending on what you ordered, there are 2 types of coils that are 'valid', one is an original series type, and one is an upgraded parallel type. The wiring is different between them.

You likely have a sneak short on the lane change switches; do you the flippers flip and hold? If so, you have the coils and end of stroke (normally closed switch) wired correctly.

Is there a plastic lifter or other insulator between the inner end of stroke (high power) and the outer switch stack (lane change) ? I hope so because you do NOT want high voltage going into your switch matrix.... bad things happen.

#6 4 months ago

I’m headed out to do Christmas stuff with my wife and daughter, I’ll try the ideas above when I get back.

I have a bad feeling I did put high voltage on the switch matrix when I had the wiring wrong the first time.

I was able to find a post about someone else that had exactly the same symptoms. He ended up finding transistor Q49 was bad.

I’m finding mixed answers online, can a transistor be tested while still in the circuit? I’m assuming not since it could feed elsewhere through the system and give false readings?

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#7 4 months ago

If you’re referring to the switch matrix drives, you should be able to compare your readings on Q49 with Q42 thru Q49. If one is bad, it will read differently than the rest of them.

#8 4 months ago
Quoted from Billc479:

If you’re referring to the switch matrix drives, you should be able to compare your readings on Q49 with Q42 thru Q49. If one is bad, it will read differently than the rest of them.

Here's what I found. I don't understand why I'm getting a reading E-C, but maybe that's because they are still on the board? Q49 is definitely different, but is it enough to consider it bad? I would expect OL if it was bad.
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1 week later
#9 3 months ago

Just to close the loop on this one, I replaced Q49 and it fixed the problems.

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