(Topic ID: 94448)

CPR Centaur PF >> What fixes prior to clearcoat?

By Whysnow

9 years ago


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CPR clear coat.jpg
#1 9 years ago

I have a nice Gold CPR pf and I want to get it off to the clearcoater in preperation for being able to do the swap in a few months.

Can anyone share what things should be done prior to clearcoat?
The shooter lane looks a bit different than the original in my machine, do I need to fix the repro one?
Any other things that should be done in advance to ensure a perfect end product post adding clear?

#2 9 years ago

bump

#3 9 years ago

Epoxy all the inserts from the back to make sure they don't move under the new clear.

Fill in any holes along the edges of the inserts with 2PAC.

Repaint shooter lane "layers" if they have strange figurings in them.

Touch up any black keylining that does not line up properly with the inserts.

#4 9 years ago

thanks vid!

What is the best expoxy to use on the back of inserts?

#5 9 years ago

2 part epoxy made for plastics is fine.

The stuff for plastics has an extra solvent that grips better.

#6 9 years ago

if you do any painting on it, the clearcoater will sand it all off, if he is doing his job correctly

#7 9 years ago

I assumed that Whysnow was going to sand it and do his touch ups.

The touch ups won't stick to shiny clearcoat.

-

Sand the whole thing with 800 grit before you do any touch ups, otherwise like Ron said, your touch ups will get sanded off.

Also any holes around the inserts will need to be roughed up so the 2PAC can stick.

CPR clear coat.jpgCPR clear coat.jpg

#8 9 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

I have a nice Gold CPR pf and I want to get it off to the clearcoater in preperation for being able to do the swap in a few months.
Can anyone share what things should be done prior to clearcoat?
The shooter lane looks a bit different than the original in my machine, do I need to fix the repro one?
Any other things that should be done in advance to ensure a perfect end product post adding clear?

Sounds like you opted for the non-clearcoat repro?

On my CPR the shooter lane at the top of the flap where multiballs come out has a ridge routed out that is not in the original playfield. I would make sure that is smooth.

#9 9 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

2 part epoxy made for plastics is fine.
The stuff for plastics has an extra solvent that grips better.

Any brand in particular you would reccomend?

I will let the clearcoated do any touchups prior to clear. I could do them but trust his work better than mine.

#10 9 years ago
Quoted from Baiter:

Sounds like you opted for the non-clearcoat repro?
On my CPR the shooter lane at the top of the flap where multiballs come out has a ridge routed out that is not in the original playfield. I would make sure that is smooth.

Nope, this one has the full clear but it is not very good IMHO. Since Centaur is a keeper (well any game that gets this much work/ level of detail is actually a keeper ) it deserves the full treatment.

I was more so worried about imperfections in the actual pf like holes need to be altered or shooter lane needs to be fixed. Things that need to be dealt with prior to clearcoat.

#11 9 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Nope, this one has the full clear but it is not very good IMHO. Since Centaur is a keeper (well any game that gets this much work/ level of detail is actually a keeper ) it deserves the full treatment.
I was more so worried about imperfections in the actual pf like holes need to be altered or shooter lane needs to be fixed. Things that need to be dealt with prior to clearcoat.

Yes, I would have him sand as much of that old clearcoat as possible. Many of the CPR repro Centaur playfields had a real thick clearcoat on them. How much clear you want back on is up to you, but some of those playfields looked like someone poured clearcoat syrup on them. I saw stacks of them at IPB when they were staged there.

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