Model: Williams Hurricane Pinball 12835 power supply.

My "test/config" button was not working on my coin door. Is it related or not, I dunno. I found out that it was connected on the 6.3v J119 connector on the power board. I tested the connector and:

J119:
Pin 1: 6.3v
Pin 3: 1.0v uh oh, supposed to have 6.3v

Came back to the coin door interface J2:
Pin 1: 6.3v
Pin 2: 1v uh oh but make sense

Went to see where J119 was getting his power from and it's from J115 on the power board which itself gets his power directly from the transformer/ps... The J115 12pins connector is separated in two connector of 6 pins each on my pinball. Pins 12-11-10-9-8-7 gives 0v and pins 6 to 2 gives 6.3v or so.

My question: How can I test this 9 pins connector from the transformer with the yellow wires? I mean, I have VERY basic knowledge of how to test and I tried to test any of the pins on the 9 pins connector on the transformer by grounding myself on the frame of the pinball, I have a reading of 0v on all of them but pins 6 to 2 works so for sure i'm not testing properly

Thanks!

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The first "beginner" question is: How can I know on this square connector which one is pin 1 on the 9 pins connector?

Also read this from a website:
The output connections. these are the same across all machines. The two pin connector with purple wires is the 100V AC DMD supply. The square connector provides 6.3VAC for GI.
Note the yellowing, caused by pins becoming dirty and overheating. The largest connector carries all other voltages. Although it has nine pins, the GI connector only has the one voltage: the windings are connected in parallel, and the extra pins and wires help carry the GI currents.

Thanks a lot

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OK, so pin 1, if I put it with pins 3-5-6-9, I have a proper reading now (about 7v) (the other pins indicates nothing). How can I go ahead and test the remaining ones? And if the remaining are good, that means it would be the upper connector or the ground at J115?

You guys are of great help, thank's.

Considering this (that on J2, I don't have on pin 1 and 2 6.3v but only on one of them (?), I would think I still have a problem getting the proper voltage to the card:

J119:
Pin 1: 6.3v
Pin 3: 1.0v uh oh, supposed to have 6.3v
Came back to the coin door interface J2:
Pin 1: 6.3v
Pin 2: 1v uh oh but make sense

Went to see where J119 was getting his power from and it's from J115 on the power board which itself gets his power directly from the transformer/ps... The J115 12pins connector is separated in two connector of 6 pins each on my pinball. Pins 12-11-10-9-8-7 gives 0v and pins 6 to 2 gives 6.3v or so.

Everything works on the coin door except that I can't enter the menu. The button is working (I mean when I push on it I have continuity and can follow it and test it on J3) and the switch is "working", by this I mean when I test it or test another switch, I can see it works but it's not doing what it's supposed, there's no effect when I open the door and it doesn't let me go into test mode and read somewhere it's linked to a safety features that prohibits entering the test menu if the door is close (when it's actually open)

OK, but you guys are aware of the door switch that if the "CPU" doesn't detect the door is open, the test/config button doesn't work? The door switch is good but not working so kinda trying to find why there's nothing happening when opening the door. Even at J205 (can't remember the pin number), when I press the door switch, I have continuity so from there, I really think it's the door opening "sensor" that prohibit the use of the switch but how to know where this "sensor" is puzzled me, I thought the 6.3v would have been a cause because it goes to the door.

I think i'll need the repair guy, i'm not comfortable enough in electricity to go further and have no clue where to look anymore.

I've put a sticker on this page!
J119 pin 3 - 1v J119 pin 1 - 6.3v
J2 pin 2 - 1v J2 pin 1 - 6.3v

I will need to document more since I tested the door switch, where it was going in J1 and J3 and then J205 but there's still something preventing it to trigger that the door is open sigh

OK, I just saw the START button illuminate but not the 2 coins insert so I guess for this problem it's the 6.3v not coming in properly.

And the other problem is the fact the machine doesn't know when the door is open or close which I don't understand how to test it either so I will call a service guy, thank's for all your help, it's just beyond my knowledge on how to test this GRN/RED J6-6 and the transformer.

Last step I will perform is to remove the power driver board and look underneath because for the door illumination, the connector J115, i've been able to get 6.3v everywhere and it goes to what I see directly to J119 but pin 3 of J119 even testing without the connector, I have 1v on this pin so maybe something behind the board.

For the system not seeing the open door, I will need the repair guy!

Before giving up... For the coin door lighting which seems to be the easy part... I get 0v (well 1v) out of pin 3 from J119 (who goes to the coin door board).

In the picture attached, if I put one of my tester lead on the Q12 first pin and the J115 ground, should I get ~6.3v? Same question but if I take J115 with one lead on J115 pin #12 and J115 pin #1, should I also get ~6.3v?

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lol, okkkk. Didn't thought I have to put together pin 1 and 3 on J119 If I test them separately using a ground + pin 1 I have 6.3 and pin 3 0v

But, tested what you said:
Pin 1+3 J119 = 5v
Pin 3 and F106 (tested both ends of fuse) = 6.3v on each side
Pin 2 and 12 on J115 = 6.3v

I see on page 3-15 the diagram but where ie the #22 Coin door closed matrix?! Gathering the more info I could

My last page is 3-18! Is it the last page 3-19?? My manual is original green hurricane manual, sad I miss a few pages! Can you put the picture for me of 3-19, I downloaded one and also ends at 3-18

I can now ask for more help because: the open switch works because if I press the button and try to change the volume it says "open coin door to use buttons".

Now the credit button vol up and down works. With my neighbour tested the button 4 for continuity:
j3-11 to j1-8 to j205-9 - continuity
Tested j6-6 to j3-12 to j1-7 to j212-2 - continuity

Also tried to short the two pins on the fourth button and nothing happens. Should I try shorting directly on the coin door interface board? If yes, which pins?

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OK, looks like 3-19 is the last page of the manual, just no page number. If it's numbered its not in my manual nor the ipdb manual.

Finally been able to go further in testings:

The 6.3v problem: It comes to the coin door board but not at the door so some wire testing is one the way (on any of the lamps, no voltage) so this will be solved soon.

The 4th button (enter/test) not working: Still on the way but need some help:
CPU Board, J205 pin 10 (switch ground) + J205 pin 9 on 12v DC, it's at 12v and when pressing the button, it drops to 0. After that, where to look?

Also, the SCHEMATIC for the CPU board (not the part list 2-7) for the Hurricane, haven't been able to find it if anybody have a link. I found one for the Getaway Highspeed 2 pinball.

Thank's

I had this document already but is seems to not be an exact match to the connectors I seem to have (J205 I have 10 pins, the schem has 9 for example)

Any idea wayout440 for where to look after I checked on the CPU board that the switch really activates? I've been able to have help from an electrician friend over the phone to test everything

Door bulbs are back online

Just need to solve my 4th button that is not working now

Nice, this site is so great with all the infos! I only have a DMM... Determined it's on the MPU.

Tested the diode, I have continuity.
Tested J205-9 (4th switch) + U16-5... I read 0v, than 12v when pressing the switch. If I put my DMM on u16-5 + ground I still have 12v... <¬¬¬ as per the docs, it would tell the lm339 is compromised...
Tested j205-9 + U15-8, I read 6v and when U15-8, I read 5v.

So either a bad lm339 or diode/resistor or board Trace? I took pictures of the board and everything looks ok can I switch one lm339 for the other lm339 for testing purposes?

This is what I have in my manual at 3-15 and testing j205-9 together with u16-5 without pressing the button = 0v and when pressing it 12v

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Is there a way I could get the appropriate CPU board diagram for the Hurricane pinball? I tried to find it everywhere but just come with one that is not the one from my Hurricane Pinball and the connectors don't even have the same number of pins and the reference to the chips pin is not the same too.

Thank you

ALMOST to the point to have the problem solved!!!

Tested from 209-9 to diode and diode to resistor... The final result is the following:
209-9 to diode, beep, button pushed or not
Diode to resistor is the nice part, no result *EXCEPT* that if I push my 4th button, it now enters the setup so we know now it's from the diode to the resistor...

I know by soldering a little cable from diode to resistor (as the shop who fixed it before I got the game did) would solve the problem. Is it the proper way to do it, probably not, what would be the problem if doing this test works?

Plain and simple: No, you good job. I would *NEVER* have been able to get there without your help (for diode/resistor/j209). Thank's for everything, I will report soon.