(Topic ID: 311418)

Bally Delta Queen score motor keeps running: #8 score motor cam switch *SOLVED*

By bayoubilly70

2 years ago


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deltaqueenscoremotorswitchesProblemFound.pdf (PDF preview)
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#1 2 years ago

I have a Bally Delta Queen where upon starting a game, all the scoring drum wheels successfully reset to '0', but the score motor keeps running with the 'score reset' relay continually firing on / off.

From the Bally Delta Queen manual start up sequence:

2C. The coin relay when energized will operate the score motor.

2D. The coin relay will energize the reset relay which will stay energized thru it's own switch until all drum unit zero switches are open and #8 score motor cam switch is open. The score reset relay is energized. The score reset relay provides the pulses to
advance the drum units until the individual drum unit reads zero.

What is "#8 score motor cam switch is open"? Does this mean the switches associated with cam 8? If so, there's a whole switch stack there starting with 'A' (closest to the cams) to 'F'. So out of those 6 switches, which is it?

Thanks in advance for any help.

#2 2 years ago

Having the score motor run continuously is very common and indicates that something is not occurring that is needed to put the machine into the next state. This can be a bad switch, a broken wire, or a gummed up mechanism that isn’t moving. The trick is to narrow it down and find it.

Per the schematic, one of the switches in the coin relay hold circuit is 8B.
It will have a blue wire with a yellow stripe and a yellow wire on the other terminal. The yellow wire is very common, so it could be daisy chained from other score motor switches.

Is there any activity from the game relay or the ball count unit during this? It sounds like the score reset is occurring correctly and the sequence isn’t moving to the next step.

There is a great thread on pinside that discusses the Bally reset process on the bon voyage game from end to end. That game is from the same time period as delta queen and it helped me understand all the steps.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/em-schematic-fully-described-from-beginning-to-end-bally-bon-voyage

Dave

#3 2 years ago

Yes, both the 'Game Interlock Relay' and the 'Ball Count Stepper' seem to have activity. If I manually move the 'Ball Count' stepper to some non-reset value, then coin a game what happens is that the 'Game Interlock Relay' seems to go active and the 'Ball Count Stepper' goes back to what should be the games initial reset state.

#4 2 years ago

One thing I just noticed is that while all this is going on, the credit unit isn't changing. I don't know enough about how to 'hot wire' these Bally EMs for free play so perhaps thats the reason - but I don't <think> its changed for free play. The credit unit seems mostly complete - the numbered credit reel is missing. Can I buy these somewhere or need to look used..?

I put a black mark on the credit toothed reel so I can tell if its advancing or decremented. It doesn't move.

#5 2 years ago

The credit unit shouldn’t change the startup sequence. It only controls whether a new game starts when you press the replay button on the front of the cabinet.

Here’s what should happen:
1. You turn on the game and press the left flipper button. That lights it up and shows game over on the backglass.
2. You press the replay button on the front. The motor starts and you see the score reels reset to zero, while at the same time the ball count steps up from 1 to 5 (or 3 if set to 3 ball). You should see these numbers change on the backglass.

The game relay latch solenoid is activated by the coin relay and starts the ball count step up. The game relay trip solenoid is activated when the ball count reaches the final count. That is what allows the coin relay to finally drop out. This is not the same as the game over relay that also has a latch and a trip. These names can get really confusing.

If the reset relay (that controls the score reel reset) never dropped, I’d say it was a problem with the score reel switches not indicating zero.

Dave

#6 2 years ago

This works fine: "1. You turn on the game and press the left flipper button. That lights it up and shows game over on the backglass."

This does not: "2. You press the replay button on the front. The motor starts and you see the score reels reset to zero, while at the same time the ball count steps up from 1 to 5 (or 3 if set to 3 ball). You should see these numbers change on the backglass."

The only way for (2) to work for me, since pressing the replay button on the coin door does nothing, is to actuate one of the coin door credit switches. When I open the coin door and face the inside of it, I actuate the coin mech switch on the right (which I guess is mech '1'). Once I do that, and only do that, do I get the behavior you explain in (2). Except, in my case the score reel motor keeps turning etc...

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from bayoubilly70:

pressing the replay button on the coin door does nothing

If pressing the Credit button doesn't activate the Credit relay,
starting with the make/break switches on the 2nd and 3rd Coin chutes,
Inspect and diagnose this circuit with Alligator clip jumper wires

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-big-shot-repair#post-6305153
http://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/troubleshooting/EM%20Troubleshooting.pdf
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#features
Example of a pinsider actually doing this https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/red-baron-tech-question#post-5858156

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#8 2 years ago

HowardR

- Thanks for the input. I'm checking it out...

#9 2 years ago

there's different switches on each score reel related to reset.

one switch stops the reel from incrementing when it's zero. Those work.

another switch with Y and G-B wires on it is in the circuit to the score reset relay and reset relay. All need to be open when the reels are zero for the score reset relay and reset relay to lose power.

so ... check if the score reset relay and reset relays are unpowering when the reels zero. If not, check those zero switches.

if the zero switches all look ok, is the coin relay staying powered or score motor switch 8E stuck closed?

free play is normally done by misadjusting or jumpering the "credit unit zero" switch always closed in the circuit howard highighted.

#10 2 years ago

It sounds like the credit unit wasn’t rigged for free play. Since you are able to get it to start with the coin switch, that is equivalent. The thing you need to be careful of with the coin switches is that they are delicate, so if you mangle them when you push them with a finger vs. dropping a coin, they could get stuck or bent and cause the score motor to run forever.

The switches are shown at the bottom of the diagram HowardR posted. Make sure that after you flick it that the spring brings it back and the other side of the make-break switch makes contact.

Dave

#11 2 years ago

Okay, this jumpering around things is helping... I just wish my alligator clips (and fingers) weren't so fat.

If I basically jumper around the whole circuit highlighted in post #7 I can get the reset relay to fire via the coin door credit button.

Specifically, I jumper:

1. W wire on 1G score motor switch <-----------> BLU-O credit button switch
2. W-O wire credit button switch <---------------> BR-Y Credit relay

If I remove either (1) or (2), pressing the coin door credit button does nothing - it will not fire the credit relay.

So I think I found a problem at least with (1). In particular, the score motor make/break switch 1G connecting to the W and B-W wires. With the game at rest, according to the schematic this part of the switch should be closed. It is not, it is open. This means the other half of this make/break switch is closed, when it should be open (W to R-Y).

I *think* with the game at rest, the score motor cam 1 switch stack should settle into one of two grooves in cam 1 - is that true? In my case it doesn't settle at one of the two groves in that cam. This forces the W and B-W wired part of the make/break switch to be open, not closed thus not completing the circuit path unless I jumper around it.

What would cause the score motor to not stop at the grooved part of cam 1 (assuming that this is wrong operation)? I feel like I should pull the bottom board and put it on the workbench and clean and adjust all of those score motor switches. I did pull the board once and cleaned all of the relay switches, but stupidly didn't do the score motor switches. I can just pull the board again and this time do all of switches, and double check the relay switches.

Thoughts?

#12 2 years ago

The switch follower should be sitting in the groove. The center leaf with the white wire should be contacting the lower leaf with the black and white wire. There should be a gap between the center leaf and the upper one with the red-yellow wire. I just looked at my machine to verify this. The odd thing is that if the upper switch is touching, the score motor should be running. That’s because that switch is what’s responsible for making the motor finish its 180 degree rotation. I’d focus on the one switch and getting that properly adjusted and working rather than cleaning stuff wholesale. I think that you can loosen the big screw at the end of the score motor bracket and it will hinge up, allowing you to see the switches better.

#13 2 years ago

This could explain the incorrect home position of my score motor. I definitely have this problem:

and I think the solution might be posted here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-bon-voyage-score-motor-slow-on-cold-start

#14 2 years ago

Okay, I fixed the 'brake' as mentioned in my last post. That think was definitely gummed up. Nice smooth action now...

... which leads to a different behavior. Now when I turn the game on, the score motor keeps turning and doesn't stop. Fixing the above issue was for sure a step in the right direction.

#15 2 years ago

Good job, that’s progress. I had one machine, I think it was a Bally RoGo that just needed the motor spindle moved around a bit before it would run at all.

I attached a snapshot of the score motor section of the schematic. One of those switches is what’s keeping the motor going.

The yellow path is the one we talked about before that keeps the motor going until it finishes a half rotation. Make sure that opens when the switch drops into that cam and that there’s no short circuit on the switch tabs. I’d also double check the coin switches because that is a common source for this behavior.

The red circle is all of the ways the motor can get started. You could observe each of those relays to see if any are active. You could also examine each of the switches for a false closure. You could even block each of them open with a piece of paper or index card and then pull them one by one to find the source.

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#16 2 years ago

dgAmpGuy

Thanks for the follow up... I was just in the process of posting exactly the picture of the schematic that you just posted. I did go through and check all the switches you highlight and was about to ask if there's some other way the score motor gets run... so I seem to be on the same page as you. I like the piece of paper/index card trick. Let me revisit again but with that method.

#17 2 years ago

How do you have your coin chute settings via these jones plugs?

I don't have a 3rd coin chute mech or 3rd coin chute relay... but there seems to be something plugged into the 3rd coin chute jones plug (which admittedly I don't under the settings even after reading the operator's manual). Would this be any cause of the problem?

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#18 2 years ago

The coin chute stuff gets confusing because there were multiple options. I can’t check to see what I have for relays right now, but my Jones plugs are very different from yours. I don’t think the second coin chute plug should have two things plugged in. Here’s my setup for reference. I only have quarter slots and I’m set up for 3 or 4 credits per coin (I forget how many it counts up and we’ve got the replay points set pretty low so the credit wheel is almost always on 25).

If I were you, I’d pull out the orange-yellow plug and Move the yellow-black and brown-yellow plugs to try my settings.

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#19 2 years ago

So a little more success... using the index card technique, I was able to isolate why the score motor keeps turns when the game is powered on. The 'center hole' relay was energizing causing the circled in green switch to close which causes the score motor to rotate:

deltaqueenscoremotorswitchesProblemFound.pdfdeltaqueenscoremotorswitchesProblemFound.pdf

So why does the 'center hole' relay energize?

centerHoldRelay12.pdfcenterHoldRelay12.pdf

The 'center hole re.' switch and the 'center hole' switches are both open. I checked the leaf switch gap, inserted index cards, and also checked the tabs to the switches (where the wires are soldered onto them) so make sure they aren't shorted. They are not. So with these two switches open, how is the 'center hole' relay being activated?

#20 2 years ago

Do you actually see it pull in or is that switch just making contact until you slip the card in? It is activated by the switch on the playfield and then held until the points are added and the ball is ejected. Obviously that should not happen if there’s no ball there. If the relay is active then the eject solenoid should be kicking a ball out each time the score motor goes around.

If it’s really pulling then somehow there is a connection being made from the blue-red wire and the yellow wire, bypassing those 2 switches. Maybe on the playfield? I don’t recall where that relay is located.

#21 2 years ago

wire 21-1 on the center hole relay goes thru the 18 pin plug to the playfield, so that's the most likely problem spot after you've ruled out issues at those two switches (solder drips, stray wire strand, switch that closes when the playfield is down, etc.) ... assuming there's no physical issue at the relay like the armature plate is stuck down on the coil top.

when does the center hole relay power?

if you leave the paper between the contacts on the two switches and power cycle the game, does that change anything?

what happens if you take out the 18 pin plug?

#22 2 years ago

dgAmpGuy baldtwit

Yes, that relay is active independent of any index card placement...

baldtwit had a good suggestion: unplug the 18 pin playfield jones plug. When I did the problem went away. Then I plugged the 18 pin plug back in and.... the problem was still gone.

Now, I've cleaned both the male and female sides of the jones plugs until they shine line new - there's nothing more to clean. But I cannot deny what just happened. My question is, if there was still a dirty 18 pin plug, or perhaps something not seated well causing that 'center hole' relay to fire, wouldn't that 18 pin jones plug act more like and open circuit / switch rather than a short? I don't understand that one at all.

Trying to fire up the game again, it still wasn't right. Keeping with "less stuff to debug the better" idea, I went and completely unplugged all 3 playfield jones connectors and removed the entire playfield from the game. Now when I turn on the game, the score motor keeps turning and turning again, but I need to narrow down exactly what's happening. I'll report back.

Thank you again for everyone's input.

#23 2 years ago

I have found solder blobs and pieces of wire in the Jones plugs. Please check carefully, inspect the other plugs and vacuum the area.

#24 2 years ago

Thanks Skidave , I'll check it out when I go to put the playfield back into the game.

So with the playfield out:

1. Power game on. Press left flipper button and Lock Relay engages. Good so far

2. Activate the coin switch on the coin door. 2nd Coin Shute Relay activates

3. Press the credit button on the coin door. The Credit Relay activates... and stays engaged. I turn to power off to the game, and it stays latched. Its really stuck even trying to unlatch it with my finger (which with a lot of pressure it finally does). Is this possible to be related to an electrical problem at all, especially with the game power off? It seemed like a physical thing to me. I took the Credit Relay assembly apart and inspected it. After reassembly it now it seems to be working (unlatches as needed and no longer stuck on). So I *think* I'm past this issue.

4. As the game is in reset mode, all the score reels successfully dial down to '0'. When this occurs, all the score reel switches are clearly open. On the back sides of these switches where the wires attach, they are also clearly separated and not shorting

5. But at this point, the: 1) score motor continues to turn; 2) the Game Over Interlock Relay keeps firing in and out of game over mode; and the Score Reset Relay keeps firing constantly

Thoughts?

#25 2 years ago

The problem seems to be relating to the Coin Relay staying locked on, therefore the Reset Relay also stays locked on

#26 2 years ago

Sounds like we’re back to the state that I talked about in post #5.
What is the game relay doing during this? There are two coils, latch and trip.
What is the ball count unit doing? Is it stepping up? Are you set to 3 ball or 5?

The reset sequence isn’t finishing, so it acts like it starts over.

#27 2 years ago

I had just finished writing and was about to post:

============================= =========================

Its set to 3 ball according to the jumper in the backbox.

As a side, what is this mechanism in the backbox? The label paper fell off it.

deltaqueenmystery (resized).jpgdeltaqueenmystery (resized).jpg

When you say 'Game Relay', I see the 'Game Interlock Relay'... seems like a latch and trip mechanism. Is this what you are calling the 'Game Relay'?

I agree it seems like the reset sequence is not finishing.

The game is set to 3 ball. The ball count stepper is not doing anything at all.

=======================================================

Before posting the above message, I noticed the Ball Count Unit was set to position '5'. I changed to via manually working the stepper unit to postition '3'. I turned the game on, started a game, and everything is working. I can activate the 500 Points Relay, and get 500 points, etc... I turn the game off, and restart again... everything resets correctly and a new games starts again.

If I then change the balls per game setting to '5', start a game, everything seems to work as well. Game resets, etc... the Ball Count Unit goes to position '5', etc...

So this is great!

The only thing that is immediately puzzling me (besides what the heck is that mech in the picture?) is that I should be able to simulate a game regarding a ball drain and moving onto the next ball. I'm using the Ball Index Relay and Outhole Relay and - with 3 ball per game set - the Ball Count Unit never moves off '3'. Maybe I'm not simulating a ball drain correctly?

#28 2 years ago

That is the 00-90 unit. Location G-4 on the schematic.

#29 2 years ago

Yes, the game interlock relay is the one that the schematic calls game relay (vs the game over relay that is also an interlock).

You need to score some points before the ball drains in order to get a ball count advance. That’s a Bally feature. The ball index relay should latch on when the first points are scored.

I’ve been burned by that myself. There are games where the ball must trigger a switch between the plunger and outhole. If you skip that, you chase odd behaviors that aren’t possible playing a real game

Dave

#30 2 years ago

I put the playfield back into the game. It seems everything works - except the Ball Count Unit just as I tested without the playfield installed.. If I set 3 balls / game, the ball count stepper unit stays at 3. It never decrements.

However, if I set 5 balls / game, there's enough running correctly that the Ball Count Unit changes from position '3' to position '5'. So that works.

It seems like the only problem is when the ball drains, going onto the next ball never decrements the Ball Count Unit. The game just goes on forever...

#31 2 years ago

That’s still great progress. Here’s what has to work:

The stepper has to be clean enough so that the reset coil will have it step down by one.
The outhole relay switch had to be closing
The ball index relay switch has to be closed
Score motor switch 5A has to close
The jones plugs between the bottom board and the backbox have to be good. (20 pin connector)

You could use jumper wires and/or the test lamp rig to isolate this.
You’re darn close to being able to play a game

Dave

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#32 2 years ago

gameover (resized).jpggameover (resized).jpg

I just played my first game. Okay, maybe several games...

While jumpering around the circuit to investigate the Ball Count Unit, the circuit path just started working. Yes, I cleaned some switches along the way - but out of the few switches I cleaned I can't pin-point exactly which one started it to work. I hope its robust now, but if not I know where to look. I can't get the darned thing to fail now.

I want to thank everyone that participated in this thread. I really learned a lot along the way. All posts really helped me. Thanks again for all the time you spent responding.

Now its time to pull the top side apart and clean up the playfield...

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