(Topic ID: 328489)

Baby Pac-Man - LED playfield light matrix PCB

By kuhurdler

1 year ago


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There are 79 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
11
#1 1 year ago

I'm developing an LED matrix board for my Baby Pacman.

I'm currently using Samsung white 2700K LEDs, and I'm trying really hard to make them look identical to the original bulbs in brightness. I think I've finally got that sorted out, and I'm planning to remove my sockets and wiring today to install this:

I'll post a picture and videos once it's installed, but I figured I would start asking for feedback on this idea now. What do you like or hate about this idea?

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#2 1 year ago

LED circuit board makes a good replacement to a grid of lights like this. Nice.

Can the bare bus wires short against the PCB or do you plan on a stand off? Maybe put the current limiting resistors on the same side with the LED bead (PCB assembly house probably like that too).

Baby Pac uses the multi phase AC feature lamps and normally a diode is used so one SCR can light two lamps, one in each phase. The LED will reverse block too, but normally only rated at like 5v and the feature lamp will swing to 6v. You probably want to add the 1n4007 diodes.

#3 1 year ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Can the bare bus wires short against the PCB or do you plan on a stand off? Maybe put the current limiting resistors on the same side with the LED bead (PCB assembly house probably like that too).

I was planning to remove the bare bus wires in that area, so that the PCB could be mounted directly up against the bottom of the wood. I agree that mounting the resistors on the same PCB side would make assembly easier. I'll give that some more thought.

Quoted from barakandl:

Baby Pac uses the multi phase AC feature lamps and normally a diode is used so one SCR can light two lamps, one in each phase. The LED will reverse block too, but normally only rated at like 5v and the feature lamp will swing to 6v. You probably want to add the 1n4007 diodes.

interesting. I assumed the resistor plus LED in series would be good enough. I'll see how they perform on this prototype. I appreciate you pointing that out.

#4 1 year ago

I'm not sure if you were aware of not, but later versions of baby pacman playfields had twist socket lamp boards

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Baby_Pac-Man#Playfield

#5 1 year ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

I'm not sure if you were aware of not, but later versions of baby pacman playfields had twist socket lamp boards
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Baby_Pac-Man#Playfield

Thanks for pointing that out. I did look into that, but I got the impression from past pinside comments that they were pretty scarce.
I also wasn't sure how exactly to bridge that gap with my existing wiring. If I could locate the pinout for that board, I could easily add the matching headers to my new PCB. I assume anyone with that existing socket-type PCB would just use socket-type LED lamps though.

#6 1 year ago

The wiring on the lamp board playfield is different.

I have a baby pac with lamp sockets like yours. I picked up a complete playfield with the lamp board with the thought that I could just swap the playfields, but the connectors that mate with the cabinet hardness don't match. They did something different with it, though I haven't taken the time to map out the wiring yet.

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Baby Pac uses the multi phase AC feature lamps and normally a diode is used so one SCR can light two lamps, one in each phase. The LED will reverse block too, but normally only rated at like 5v and the feature lamp will swing to 6v.

Probably going to need capacitors to help prevent flickering too since the LEDs will only get half wave DC yeah?

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Probably going to need capacitors to help prevent flickering too since the LEDs will only get half wave DC yeah?

They are going to have a 60hz strobe to them. I've tried LEDs in a 6803 game and it wasn't that noticeable under inserts.

#9 1 year ago
Quoted from barakandl:

I've tried LEDs in a 6803 game and it wasn't that noticeable under inserts.

A friend had pretty bad luck with LEDs in a 6803 to the point some LEDs flickered so bad they didn't even switch on sometimes. But we hadn't got into adding load resistors, even then I was skeptical with the half wave.

However I have read here some have had good results with LEDs though.

Hopefully @kuhurdler's board works fine.

#10 1 year ago

So far so good, no flickering or any ill effects. The only way I can tell a difference from the incandescent bulbs is that the LEDs turn ON slightly faster.

I really appreciate everyone taking the time to provide feedback here.

I've got some pictures and video I will share tomorrow. Right now I need to go play Mario Kart with my kiddos.

#11 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

A friend had pretty bad luck with LEDs in a 6803 to the point some LEDs flickered so bad they didn't even switch on sometimes. But we hadn't got into adding load resistors, even then I was skeptical with the half wave.
However I have read here some have had good results with LEDs though.
Hopefully kuhurdler's board works fine.

There are at least two different operating systems for 6803 that behave differently with LEDs. The one used in special force works okay with LEDs. Eight ball champ was really bad.

#12 1 year ago
Quoted from kuhurdler:

So far so good, no flickering or any ill effects. The only way I can tell a difference from the incandescent bulbs is that the LEDs turn ON slightly faster.
I really appreciate everyone taking the time to provide feedback here.
I've got some pictures and video I will share tomorrow. Right now I need to go play Mario Kart with my kiddos.

Excellent!

Not sure if this has any bearing, but because Baby Pac-Man and Granny and the Gators used the special combo solenoid/driver board, supposedly that allows them to handle LEDs perfectly fine. Mine has all LEDs and it looks great.

This is wonderful, because those sockets suck and they are insanely easy to short out, accidentally.

#13 1 year ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Excellent!
Not sure if this has any bearing, but because Baby Pac-Man and Granny and the Gators used the special combo solenoid/driver board, supposedly that allows them to handle LEDs perfectly fine. Mine has all LEDs and it looks great.
This is wonderful, because those sockets suck and they are insanely easy to short out, accidentally.

I would suspect it more likely a software thing.

These bally-stern games would work fine with LEDs if the software updated the lamps further away from the zero cross. Bally's original good idea was to turn the lamps on as close to zero volts as possible to not stress the incandescent filaments. 30 some years later it ends up being an issue with LEDs not drawing enough current.

That is why you don't need to have the extra load resistors for the aux lamp boards. They turn on those lamps after the main lamp driver board which is far enough from the zero cross point the SCRs latch fine.

#14 1 year ago
Quoted from barakandl:

These bally-stern games would work fine with LEDs if the software updated the lamps further away from the zero cross.

The Bally-133 dual-phase games likely refresh the lamps further from zero crossing since the rise/fall time of the feature lamp voltage is slower than the other typical games based on steeper solenoid zero crossing voltage. The below diagram is probably how it works based on the software code in Goldball (another dual-phase feature lamp game).

The result with LEDs will be the 60Hz strobing as you mentioned since there's no voltage at the feature lamps just over 50% of the time because of the half wave rectification.

Dual-Phase_Zero_Crossing.pngDual-Phase_Zero_Crossing.png

#15 1 year ago

Here's a picture with it installed.

20221231_211134.jpg20221231_211134.jpg
#16 1 year ago

Thoughts on Price ??

I’d be interested so have as a backup

#17 1 year ago

I'm not anywhere near being ready to talk about that.

tenor.giftenor.gif
#18 1 year ago
Quoted from kuhurdler:

I'm not anywhere near being ready to talk about that.
[quoted image]

If you are seeking a Beta Test

Lmk

#19 1 year ago
Quoted from kuhurdler:

Here's a picture with it installed.
[quoted image]

Wow, that’s a lot of soldering!
Good luck!
Show us the top of the playfield, how does it look?

#20 1 year ago

Here is the LED matrix in the Lamp Test mode:

Here is some goofing around gameplay (sorry for my sniffles):

#21 1 year ago

This is awesome!

Really looks nice. And even though video is never like seeing it in person, it totally looks all incandescent and evenly lit across all the lights on the game.

For those who don't know, BPM is an awesome game. So much fun. Everyone loves playing it when they come here. I just wish I had it up and running now. I have some issues I have to figure out and fix on her.

If you ever do decide to produce a bunch of these for sale, I'd be in on one. My BPM will never leave my home.

Here's a pic of mine that I did completely over. As you can see, the video isn't rendering. Sigh.

20230101_175814 (resized).jpg20230101_175814 (resized).jpg
#22 1 year ago

Need LED boards to replace the other inserts on the playfield as well.

#23 1 year ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Wow, that’s a lot of soldering!
Good luck!

It takes a fair bit of time to remove all the old sockets because they are all soldered and screwed on. Then it takes even more time removing the bare BUSS wires and associated staples. Actually soldering the wires onto the new PCB was really quick. Since most wires connect to 2 bulbs, I made solder jumpers on the PCB so that you only have to solder that wire once. That and removing the BUS wires cleans it up the playfield area quite a bit.

I'd really welcome any positive or negative feedback about this idea. If there is something I'm not thinking of, I'd prefer to find out about it now.

#24 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Need LED boards to replace the other inserts on the playfield as well.

Yeah, it's a bit like giving a mouse a cookie.

I thought about doing small PCBs for the "Fruits" and "Tunnel" lights, but there is a reed switch located in the middle of both of those that would conflict.

#25 1 year ago
Quoted from kuhurdler:

Yeah, it's a bit like giving a mouse a cookie.
I thought about doing small PCBs for the "Fruits" and "Tunnel" lights, but there is a reed switch located in the middle of both of those that would conflict.

Time to get creative with the board layouts.

#26 1 year ago

It's fantastic. A grid of lights like this can be replaced with an LED circuit board. Can the bare bus wires short against the PCB? I put the current limiting resistors on the same side as the LED bead in my project. This was revealed to me while participating in a PCB assembly session. You can also use it as a reference.

#27 1 year ago

I agree it looks awesome and is a great idea. Just need to figure out a way to tidy up the wiring and put it on plugs so it can be removed if needed.

#28 1 year ago

I can't tell if you are doing this already from the pic but another to consider is to draw a tracks on the PCB to reduce the wire count that needs soldered to the PCB. Ie if a brown white wire drives two different lamps at opposite phase, then a track on the pcb could replace the redundant 2nd drive short wire loop. Solder at the point the two wires come together at then you should be able to remove the small wire loop making the install quicker.

#29 1 year ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

I agree it looks awesome and is a great idea. Just need to figure out a way to tidy up the wiring and put it on plugs so it can be removed if needed.

I love this suggestion. Do you think people would be willing to crimp on their own connectors? (I certainly would) I could make it match the newer pcb rev if I could somehow find it.

#30 1 year ago
Quoted from barakandl:

I can't tell if you are doing this already from the pic but another to consider is to draw a tracks on the PCB to reduce the wire count that needs soldered to the PCB. Ie if a brown white wire drives two different lamps at opposite phase, then a track on the pcb could replace the redundant 2nd drive short wire loop. Solder at the point the two wires come together at then you should be able to remove the small wire loop making the install quicker.

Great suggestion. I am already doing that. I have a small solder jumper to shunt the 2 together.

#31 1 year ago
Quoted from kuhurdler:

I love this suggestion. Do you think people would be willing to crimp on their own connectors? (I certainly would) I could make it match the newer pcb rev if I could somehow find it.

I would hope that anyone who is going to go through the trouble to remove all of the sockets is capable of crimping a few molex pins. Hard to say though.

#32 1 year ago

Is there anyone with the newer Lamp Matrix board that would be willing to take a picture with the wire connectors installed?
I'd love to be able to tell what each wire color is on those connectors.

78baad5af05b185da9f3071038a5e920d38a5cba (resized).png78baad5af05b185da9f3071038a5e920d38a5cba (resized).png

#33 1 year ago

watching this thread with much interest!

Brian

#34 1 year ago

well, I haven't gotten a response from anyone yet... so I did my best to guess at the traces using photos of the original board that I've found from web searches.

Here's what I think:
16pin
1. nc
2. nc
3. Extra baby Arrow - Black/White (note: no pair)
4. A1_2/M2 - Red/Green
5. P2/C2 - Green
6. Key
7. BUSS Upper - Blue
8. A1_1/M1 - Red/White
9. P1/C1 - Blue/White
10. BUSS Upper - Blue
11. N2 - Gray/White (*note, no pair, and there's multiple G/W wires)
12. A2_1/Energizer 1 - Gray/Black
13. BUSS Lower - Gray
14. BUSS Lower - Gray
15. N1 - Black/Red (note: no pair)
16. A2_2/Energizer 2 - Yellow

17pin
1. 4000/8000 Arrow - Yellow/White*(note multiple Y/W wires)
2. P3/C3 - Brown/Green
3. A1_3/M3 - Gray/Red
4. P4/C4 - Blue/Yellow
5. nc
6. nc
7. Key
8. 2000/6000 Arrow - Gray/White (note multiple G/W wires)
9. A1_4/M4 - Yellow/White (note multiple Y/W wires)
10. A2_4/Energizer4 - Orange/Blue
11. N4 - Black/Green (note: no pair)
12. BUSS Lower - Gray
13. BUSS Lower - Gray
14. BUSS Upper - Blue
15. BUSS Upper - Blue
16. N3 - White/Brown (note: no pair)
17. A2_3/Energizer 3 - Orange/Black

So that's what my pinout is going to be for my next revision... whether it matches the original or not.

#35 1 year ago

Add the 1n4004 diodes too, your LEDs will be less stressed out reverse blocking at the top end of their limit.

connectors are good for the games that have it. Asking someone to build a connector that doesn't have one is a lot of work. Maybe something like this is a compromise for the no board games if you looking for solderless install.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#36 1 year ago

barakandl, that's a great idea. I'm thinking removable terminal blocks.

Capture (resized).PNGCapture (resized).PNG
#37 1 year ago

Rev 2.
Just need to build some 3.96mm connectors in my cabinet now. I'll make a rev with terminal blocks next. I also think my next rev I'll also use white pcb.

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#38 1 year ago

Looking sweet!

#39 1 year ago

Well I am pleased with how this turned out.

20230118_153831.jpg20230118_153831.jpg
#40 1 year ago

Looks good!

#41 1 year ago
Quoted from kuhurdler:

Well I am pleased with how this turned out.
[quoted image]

So clean! Amazing job!

#42 1 year ago

I wish Alltek or someone would come up with an updated version of the Vidiot board. Man, that would change the whole game for the better. Buy both their boards along with Kuhurdler's light board and we'd all have new machines with no reliability issues.

PLEASE let someone redo the Vidiot board.

#43 1 year ago

I would be interested, the original setup is too much of a pain. ( If not 1 million $ )

#44 1 year ago

I like crimped Molex connectors. I hate those green terminal blocks

3 weeks later
#45 1 year ago

I've been running this for several weeks with absolutely no issues, and I feel confident making this LED Matrix available for purchase on my website at https://riddledtv.com/arcade/pinball.html

#46 1 year ago
Quoted from kuhurdler:

I've been running this for several weeks with absolutely no issues, and I feel confident making this LED Matrix available for purchase on my website at https://riddledtv.com/arcade/pinball.html

Awesome!

1 week later
#47 1 year ago

I have a later production Baby Pac with the factory PCB light board. Is this plug and play with that version?

Thanks!

#48 1 year ago
Quoted from pinmods:

I have a later production Baby Pac with the factory PCB light board. Is this plug and play with that version?
Thanks!

I'll buy your stock light pcb if you decide to go for the new replacement.

1 week later
#49 1 year ago
Quoted from pinmods:

I have a later production Baby Pac with the factory PCB light board. Is this plug and play with that version?
Thanks!

I can now confirm that my new LED board is plug and play compatible with the wiring from the original PCB light board. The wire colors all match up.

Here is some pictures that were provided to me by pinmods.

IMG_6421.jpgIMG_6421.jpgIMG_6422.jpgIMG_6422.jpgIMG_6423.jpgIMG_6423.jpgIMG_6420.jpgIMG_6420.jpg

#50 1 year ago

Ordered through your website, somewhat surprised that no shipping cost were added for a shipment to France ( Paris ), If you need extra money contact me.

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