I had just purchased one of your boards for the baby pacman. I will let you know how it works out and post

I’ll order this for my Baby Pac Man project machine. It will be another month or so until I get boards back from Jerry Clause. He’s amazing when it comes to board repairs.

I’ll send some feedback once I get it all back together and do some tests.

Thank you for creating this alternative.

Some questions that come to mind for me are:

Do these match Comet’s Warm White LEDs ok? I intend to have the other inserts lit with them.

What if one of the LEDs in the board go out—are they easy to unsolder and solder a new one on?

I have one in my machine and it looks fantastic. I was worried about it looking too "blue" but the LED's are warm and match the "retro" warm Comet LED's I have installed perfectly.

I installed the LED Playfield PCB yesterday and created a Timelapse of the event. I plan to have an overall review/feedback video of the product as well once I get my boards back from my repair guy.

Side note—anyone ever think about making Art Blades for this game?

I am working on a newly acquired Baby pac-man now. I am interested in getting this for my machine, quick question, though. does the board, and the mini single boards include a diode for each lamp, or do they work without one in the circuit?

I went ahead and ordered one from you on Friday. Excited for it to arrive. I'll post here again with pics etc. after I've got it installed.

On the baby pac club forum post there was a link to this, and a few pics of folks that had installed it, kinda cute, but not my style:

https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=182&search=baby+pac-man

yeah, I wish someone would just do mirrors.

does anybody have any good pictures of how they hooked up the Buss wires to their board? Did you connect them on both sides of the new board? Or did you only connect to one of the pins?

Brian,

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So I finished yanking out all the old lamp sockets today! I also marked out the wire color codes for all the lamps, not just the ones on the sides. mainly for reference when replacing the individual lamps, and for future reference if me or anyone else down the road ever needs to revert back to all individual sockets in the grid area.

Sharing a pic here in case it helps anyone else doing the same later. The number codes are the same referenced in the schematic. And the Red or black hash mark I made along where the old lamp bracket was corresponds to which ground trace that lamp connects to (Red sharpie = blue line / Black sharpie = gray line)
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I also circled the numbers in red on the ones where there was one lamp in the grid, and it's matching color pair was not.
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You may notice I also have pulled the GI sockets, and I am replacing them too with the kind that have a bracket that screw down, instead of relying on the staples and soldered ground wire.

Making progress today! I have the right side individual lamps in so far. Time for a lunch break now.

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The install is done! I think it turned out great. I did a lot of work to cable manage the lengths of the wiring to be able to make it into a clean harness. Including pulling three of the wires that normally wrapped around the backside of the drop targets to the other end. I pulled those out and rerouted them the the side with the others. The only wire coming from the left side now is the black/red that has to first go to the left saucer arrow. And then I also have another loose wire going from the harness plug down to the extra ball light.
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As for the upper buss/lower buss wires going to the board I ran new wiring straight to the fuse block, you can see them looping in to join the main harness in the blue and black color (I didn’t have gray wiring in my kit)
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For the upper and lower buss wiring going to the individual LEDs, I ripped out all the shitty bare wiring that was stapled down, and replaced it with copper wiring with a silicone insulation, which allowed me to use self-adjusting type wire strippers to strip off insulation mid-wire to solder to the pads of the individual LED boards.
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(Ignore the main wire harness and wiring on the left side, I left it in zip tied as I still need to work on the drop target assembly next.)
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You can see in the pic I also used the board at the end of where the main grey wire goes to as a junction point for the wiring that needs to go down to the ball drain area, and up to the left side, allowing that wiring to be ran in the harness.
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I also beefed up the solder pad with a nice thick bead all the way around on that one to make sure it handled the current well. (My stained glass soldering skills came in handy on that part)

If anyone has and questions or wants more pictures of something specific regarding my install, please let me know.

I don't know yet, I am still deep in the weeds getting this game restored, before powering everything up for the first time. They guy I bought it from had got it from a lot of 50+ games he picked up in bulk, so this unit was in unknown condition for everything, other than what I could see. I at least knew that pretty much every part was present, if not in the best shape. I vowed to make sure I checked out and laid hands on every part of this thing before even plugging it in.

So far I have already :
*Replaced T-molding on cabinet (T-molding was missing, but when I bought it, it came with a replacement set that had blue for the sides and pink for the top, which looks pretty decent for a color scheme)
*Replaced damaged power cable
*Replaced missing and improper amp fuses
*Checked out the power supply, and changed out the fuse holders on the power board. (I did plug in the power at that point to confirm I had correct voltages coming from power supply and power board)
*Flipper rebuild kit, including new coils for flippers (one of the coils had a sleeve stuck that I couldn't get out)
*New Flipper bats
*Replace a broken leaf switch on one of the side bumpers
*Re-attached the wiring going to the speakers that had been cut at some point
*Replaced missing hold-downs for wiring harness under playfield
*Changed out the transistors for all the lights, and the capacitor on the driver combo board.
*Repaired a broken trace and a couple of bad solder pads on driver board
*Re-flowed connectors on combo driver board
*Scraped off an old failed clearcoat/mylar (not sure what it was) that was over the overlay, and was flaking off.
*Re-pinned all the connectors
*Swapped out all the lamp sockets for LEDs and also new sockets for GI
*New locks
*Repainted the black on the inside side panels, as it was pretty scratched up down to wood in a places.
*Re-attached some flaking on the backglass and marquee with triple-thick clearcoat
*Added rubber U-channel to the edges of the playfield glass
*Removed all the playfield parts, ran metal parts through evapo-rust, and then rock-tumbled small parts in crushed walnut shells to polish
*Cleaned/lubricated the coin eject buttons, as they were stuck
*Replaced the grounding strap going to coin door
*Cleaned and adjusted the saucer kickers
*Checked and replaced missing / bad diodes on lamp sockets (but hose have since been ripped out to put in the LED kit, lol)
*Checked and reflowed/reconnected wiring going to all the coils/switches (most of them were pretty gnarly with several broken wire repairs that I removed and re-attached wire cleanly)

Still left to complete:
*Add in proper label-maker labels, instead of just sharpie marks for harness connectors before re-installing it.
*Install new alltek MPU
*Re-cap the monitor
*Re-flow connectors on Vidiot board
*Restore / clean up the drop target assembly, including new drop targets, and replacing a missing rod that goes through
*Replace springs on memory coils for drop target (one of them was weak)
*Adjust the leaf switches for drop targets, (and any others on the playfield)
*Run the board mounting brackets through the evapo-rust bath to remove corrosion from old battery leakage.
*Clean up and wipe down back door under the mounting brackets before re-installing brackets.
*3 of the wire ball guides have broken wires at the base, need to fabricate replacements from stainless welding wire.
*Re-install playfield parts, including new rubbers, plastic posts, and new silkscreened plastics.
Adjust and lock down position of flipper bats (they are only currently on finger-tight when I did the rebuild, as to not make a heavy indent on the new ones before I had the playfield back together to set the right angle)
*One of the screws holding on the marquee bracket is broken off in the wood, I need to drill out the old screw, plug it with wood, and then put in new screw.
*Install new leg levelers
*Install new pinballs

At that point I'll plug in and test it out.....

Not necessary to get it working, but I also have some LED light strips to add in to light up the backglass around the monitor, and also light up the marquee, instead of using the old fluorescent light.

I also have some black light strips I am going to try out in the playfield area, as I bought the radiant rings rubbers for the playfield, which should light up blue if under UV light. (If anyone knows where to get a yellow pinball that can glow under UV, let me know)

I also want to get some of the spinner decals, and probably a new control panel overlay, but those can wait, don't need those to play game.

After all that then I can power this thing up and see if I need anything else, as I am Still unsure if the vidiot or monitor will need more work
I have parts ready for replacement if needed on :
*volume potentiometer on coin door if needed
*5 adjustment pots on vidiot
*Flipper button leaf switches

Well, I just made this bullet point list, as much for my benefit as anyone else's too, as I had not typed it all out yet... I guess I have most of the things done, and am getting pretty close.

Quick question… I got the board installed on Baby Pac along with the LED Yoppciles for the other controlled laps.

I had all board repaired and verified by a board repairer in the community. Upon startup, all flashed on the Vidiot are correct (10 flashes), but the MPU shows 5 (not the 6 needed). I tried a different, new Alltek MPU just to rule it out. Still 5 flashes. TP3 reads 7.7 v DC. I believe this should be 12v? From my understanding this circuit runs through the playfield fuse under the playfield. I verified that these fuses were good. Does this circuit under the playfield run through the lamps I modified for this mod?

I believe I wired it correctly, but if something on my photos looks off, let me know.

Thanks for any input.

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I think since there are no traditional displays used in BPM the self test skips the 6th flash which is normally for the display interrupt signal, irrelevant on this game.

There are normally 7 flashes on a Bally MPU, but on Baby Pac and Granny and the Gators, there should be 6 flashes. I am only receiving 5.

I got it working with the help of Jerry Clause! Changed the brightness (to fix a dim monitor issue) and found a disconnect on the controlled lamps daisy chain that was preventing the J4 pin 15 from getting the correct voltage. The thin grey wire going from some of the controlled lamps to the MPU J4 pin 15 was somehow disconnected from the grey wire on the other controlled lamps that are supplied 11ACV from the transformer. The TP3 now has the correct voltage and now has 6 flashes. Game works!

Huge THANK YOU to Jerry Clause on FaceBook (in pinball repair groups) for helping me find the solution. He is also the one who looked over my boards and made sure they were bullet proofed.

Anyone else notice the two power pellets on the left are a different shade of blue than the right? Not sure if it’s the led board doing that or if it’s the inserts themselves. Seems strange… do all of yours have the same thing?

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Thank you for verifying!

I love the LED board. If you ever make one with brighter LEDs, I’d be interested in buying one. It’s bright as it is, but I do like a little brighter inserts, personally. Not a complaint at all. Simply a wish. Great job with the board. Again, I’m loving it!

I think a video explaining the install process step-by-step would be helpful for newer pinball hobbyists.