(Topic ID: 349947)

A modern, minimal spotlight fixture

By Sorokyl

3 months ago


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    15
    #1 3 months ago

    Edit: latest version of STLs here:
    https://www.printables.com/model/755761-sorokyls-minimal-pinball-spotlight-fixture

    I don't like dark spots on my playfield, and i don't love how obtrusive and stupid looking spotlights are (I guess that second part is a bit subjective).

    Part of the reason the spotlights are so big is because the bulb size, which was standardized 50+ years ago and nobody has thought "hey a SMD is the size of a small lentil why is my bulb the size of an olive?"

    I thought I'd take a crack at it. I am gonna use comet light bulbs because they have the right circuitry already (5V AC is not common!) , they have lots of options for color/brightness, etc.

    One issue is how to mount. We want it to be stable, so for now sticking with attaching to an existing nut on the playfield. To keep footprint small, i want it to sit on top of the nut.

    so I disassembled led an opmax bulb, measured the SMD part, and modeled the smallest thing I could to fit it, along with wires. A base gets attached to the nut, and the body goes onto the base using a wedge shaped tab. I am using a matrix bulb to power it.

    Slings are one use case. Another is replacing spotlights already on the playfield. In one pic below, you can see how the tall spotlight in foo fighters could be replaced by mine, between the plastics, completely invisible from player perspective but doing the same job. Or, put it literally anywhere on the playfield that has a screw or nut!

    Here's pictures of my first prototype. What do you guys think? Any ideas/suggestions/criticisms? I don't plan on productizing this, but I could release the STLs and instructions (3 off the shelf parts from comet pinball, dissemble bulb with hands and solder or crimp a matrix connector on )

    The finish is a bit rough. need to tweak the model for printability and adjust settings. I may print the body with a resin printer. And then paint it. either chrome or to match whatever plastic i was mounting it to.
    PXL_20240110_163637646.MP (resized).jpgPXL_20240110_163637646.MP (resized).jpgPXL_20240110_164412403.MP (resized).jpgPXL_20240110_164412403.MP (resized).jpgslings (resized).pngslings (resized).pngslings2 (resized).pngslings2 (resized).pngPXL_20240110_165951368.MP (resized).jpgPXL_20240110_165951368.MP (resized).jpg

    #2 3 months ago

    This is brilliant. I wanted to mount spotlights on my firepower so I could've used some red LEDs in the GI and it made the game too dark. The traditional spotlights were way too big and ended up hitting the glass and not fitting. This looks like a great solution. I like how sterns have spotlights all over highlighting the game. It'd be sweet to add additional lights to other games in a non intrusive manner.

    #3 3 months ago

    I like this ...
    Not so obvious.. hides nicely in the game ..
    If you want share on how to build or reach out swinks I think these would sell.

    #4 3 months ago
    Quoted from Sorokyl:

    What do you guys think?

    Love it! I've actually taken spotlights off games like Metallica LE because it's such a cluttered look, and I got tired of airballs knocking the hex posts loose counterclockwise.

    I can't believe a manufacturer hasn't done this, since a spotlight would almost certainly cost less in that form factor.

    #5 3 months ago

    Fantastic idea! I would replace all spotlights with these and add a few more since they are so discreet. Following to see how this develops.

    #6 3 months ago

    Indeed brilliant and I can see the plastic cover 3d-printed in a matching color to blend with the slingshot plastic.

    1 week later
    #7 3 months ago

    This would be great. I've recently been considering trying to light up some of the dark spots on some games, TAF being one. I am one who also doesn't want it to cost a great deal to be able to do. Kinda cake and eat it too. I've been looking at just finding the spotlight parts cheap and assembling them myself but can't find the cheap place to order. P/L has about what I was looking for, but this could be a new direction.

    So do I understand it that you need to print these parts?

    #8 3 months ago
    Quoted from pjflyer:

    I've recently been considering trying to light up some of the dark spots on some games, TAF being one.

    TAF could definitely use it. The only game I've even seen pinstadiums in and thought "that's an improvement."

    #9 3 months ago

    I got a few different bulbs types to experiment with. My next step is to do 1 of my pins, tweak, do another, tweak and then hopefully I'll have it down well enough to share.

    If anyone wants to try and can't 3d print the parts themselves, I'll probably offer to ship that for a modest fee, but I'm not sure if I want to offer a plug and play solution.

    Anyway, too early to decide that.

    #10 3 months ago

    I would be interested in 3D printing the little bulb housing myself. I definitely like the idea of a less obtrusive look for the spotlights.

    #11 3 months ago
    Quoted from Sorokyl:

    I got a few different bulbs types to experiment with. My next step is to do 1 of my pins, tweak, do another, tweak and then hopefully I'll have it down well enough to share.
    If anyone wants to try and can't 3d print the parts themselves, I'll probably offer to ship that for a modest fee, but I'm not sure if I want to offer a plug and play solution.
    Anyway, too early to decide that.

    I'm interested.

    #12 3 months ago
    Quoted from Sorokyl:

    I'm not sure if I want to offer a plug and play solution.

    I think you would have a tough time keeping up with orders if you did. I know I would be in for some.

    #13 85 days ago
    Quoted from Sorokyl:

    I got a few different bulbs types to experiment with. My next step is to do 1 of my pins, tweak, do another, tweak and then hopefully I'll have it down well enough to share.
    If anyone wants to try and can't 3d print the parts themselves, I'll probably offer to ship that for a modest fee, but I'm not sure if I want to offer a plug and play solution.
    Anyway, too early to decide that.

    Depending on the availability of parts, your time, etc. you might find an audience that makes it worth it.
    I can understand that you would want to make and test for a while to see if it's viable.

    #14 85 days ago

    This is great idea and I think what you’ve come up with looks good. I had a similar thought, about why no one has improved these, after seeing the apron spot lights in, I think newer Sterns? Or maybe it was on EJ?

    #15 79 days ago

    bit of an update. I've finished implementing these on my first machine. There are a total of 6 of these spotlights on this machine. see if you can find them all. By the way this is a dark room with only uv light.

    I am pretty happy with the design and I will release some STLs soon. A couple of things I learned:

    The housing needs a solid mount to the base. so now I am using an m3 screw on the front (where you can't see) to attach.

    I really really don't like layer lines inside my pinball machine. So I printed 6, sanded them, spray painted them, and then hand painted them to match the part of the machine they were going in. But I rushed itand messed up the paint job when installing. It was a big hassle, so now I have decide to just print in an appropriate color and leave it alone. The grey and purple ones in the photo are unprocessed prints.

    The holes in the base for wires work for slings, and if mounting on post, but for most other areas where you're basically mounting it flat onto a plastic, it didn't work. So I added a hole in the body for wires. Just mirror in slicer to get the hole on the other side. I'll provide STLs with and without hole.

    Current design only works with Comet opmax bulbs. these are the brightest bulbs in my testing so I probably won't bother making it work for their other bulbs which seem harder to work with in this application anyway.
    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    #16 79 days ago

    Awesome! Very nice work and love how they are non-obtrusive. I was thinking about some of the Comet pinstadium knock offs but they are kinda big too.

    Who's gonna start printing them so we can buy them?

    I'll take 10 please.

    #17 79 days ago

    That little one that shines on mini Deadpool comes to mind. I wonder if you can source those

    #18 79 days ago

    Don’t want to step on OP’s toes, but if he is not going to sell them or otherwise offer, then I’m happy to be the source. I could even take preorders and sell them with bulb and wiring included as a kit.

    OP, what are your intentions?

    #19 79 days ago

    Maybe try using these, come in colors too. No idea how bright they will be. You can probably trim the side tabs and wire to the back of them.

    CHANZON 10 pcs High Power Led Chip 5W White (6000K - 6500K / 600mA - 700mA / DC 6V - 7V / 5 Watt) Super Bright Intensity SMD COB Light Emitter Components Diode 5 W Bulb Lamp Beads DIY Lighting https://a.co/d/ic9f9tC

    #20 79 days ago

    STLs and instructions here:
    https://www.printables.com/model/755761-sorokyls-minimal-pinball-spotlight-fixture

    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    Don’t want to step on OP’s toes, but if he is not going to sell them or otherwise offer, then I’m happy to be the source. I could even take preorders and sell them with bulb and wiring included as a kit.
    OP, what are your intentions?

    Yeah you guys go for it. I am not going to persue selling them. Would love to see some more attention paid to decent pinball lighting.

    Quoted from Lermods:

    Maybe try using these, come in colors too. No idea how bright they will be. You can probably trim the side tabs and wire to the back of them.
    CHANZON 10 pcs High Power Led Chip 5W White (6000K - 6500K / 600mA - 700mA / DC 6V - 7V / 5 Watt) Super Bright Intensity SMD COB Light Emitter Components Diode 5 W Bulb Lamp Beads DIY Lighting https://a.co/d/ic9f9tC

    I thought about trying to just find SMD mounted to minimalistic circuit board... Then I realized pinball light bulbs, when dissasembled, are already that. The benefit is that they also already have rectifier circuitry built in. the GI circuit is 5v AC, so you need that. So that's why I chose to just use opmax. The disassembled opmax radius is smaller than their other bulbs. But it's not as bright as Stern's 5V flasher bulbs which have the bigger format. I don't think that bothers me too much. But if i find an application where i really need the super bright flasher i guess i can make a bigger one.

    Will slowly move onto implementing these on some of my other games:

    Medieval Madness - (got a bunch of those clunkers in there now.) Also have 3 different lermods led-strip products to go in there. And gonna paint my castle. excited about that, will be a good overhaul.
    Godzilla - focus on illuminating the stumblor/diddy buildings (will have all 5)
    Lord of the Rings - See if i can light up all of the figures properly.
    Iron Maiden

    If i create some additional variations I'll be sure to share.

    #21 79 days ago
    Quoted from Sorokyl:

    There are a total of 6 of these spotlights on this machine. see if you can find them all.

    I see the two grey on the slings, two more grey in the middle and one purple up to the top left...but I can't find the 6th one.

    Looks fantastic! Very evenly lit.

    #22 79 days ago

    Completely digging the concept and overall aesthetic but without the cone, like on the original style, does this cast more of a focal point of light? Where as the reflector cone might provide more of a fanned out illumination.

    #23 79 days ago

    Looking forward to ordering these from someone.

    #24 79 days ago
    Quoted from Enchantress:

    Completely digging the concept and overall aesthetic but without the cone, like on the original style, does this cast more of a focal point of light? Where as the reflector cone might provide more of a fanned out illumination.

    the cone could actually only focus light. If the photons aren't already going in that direction, it won't reflect anything. I think the main point of it is to shield bulb from POV. The design is from an age when the incandescent bulbs must have the elongated lense with filament in middle . But an led doesn't require the lense. So the cone is really pointless.

    I think surface mount LEDs are probably all similar in how they project light in a cone. The lense opmax bulbs from comet is specifically designed to project the light at a wider angle, for applications where it's sticking up through a hole in the playfield and trying to illuminate playfield. But in this case. We've removed that lense. And and is probably the same. And no cone needed. But Im not an expert

    #25 78 days ago

    I am going to order some bulbs, print some housings, and see what is involved in constructing one before I offer them to others as a fully assembled item. I would like to gauge overall interest which will help me set a price (ie if I can do a large order run then that saves a little in my costs). I’m guessing I would be around $15 per kit plus order shipping.

    I typically use cool white in my spots, but guessing people would want color options? Also, I’ll be able to offer the housings in a wide variety of colors, and I’ll have to figure out the left, right, or no hole options.

    Also, my preference is to usually run a wire under the playfield and connect to a GI socket using alligator clips (or actually solder) instead of using the bulb with connector since different people/games have different colored GI lighting. Would that be okay with everyone?

    Then there is the question of standoffs and nuts. There are two different thread options, so this complicates things a little if I’m going to include posts or not (I omit them in the spotlight kits I currently offer with some of my mods).

    With all the variables, I’m thinking this may lead me to doing an initial pre-order run instead of one-off orders. My preference is customize for each buyer’s needs, so that limits me some if I want to keep costs down.

    #26 78 days ago

    OP, one question I have is regarding the ability to angle up/down traditional spots. Did you find in your testing this really wasn’t needed?

    #27 78 days ago
    Quoted from Gorgar123:

    I see the two grey on the slings, two more grey in the middle and one purple up to the top left...but I can't find the 6th one.
    Looks fantastic! Very evenly lit.

    above the upper RH flipper, hid it behind the 50mph Speed Limit sign

    Nicely done OP!!!

    Later,
    EV

    #28 78 days ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    OP, one question I have is regarding the ability to angle up/down traditional spots. Did you find in your testing this really wasn’t needed?

    I didn't. I think it could help having a slight down tilt for GI. And a more extreme tilt would be good if trying to replace a spotlight which is raised high to shine on something (e.g Godzilla figure). On FF I needed to lift up the upper playfield one to not blast the flipper but still wanted it pointed straight.

    I am not too concerned with it but I guess could have a version of the base with a 10% angle up or down. Anything more extreme I would probably make a new design. (Which I may). I may also think more about making a version which looks better on a post. This design really is meant to lat flat down. Flat part is a bit silly raised up.

    here's a 10 degree downward tilt

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
    #29 78 days ago

    I kind of like how they look mounted on posts.

    I do have a couple of requests/observations:

    - I think it would look better/more finished if the housing was designed to completely fit over the base instead of butting up against it. For the sloped bases, they could be designed where the ramp part that extended below the housing was wider to be flush with the outside housing walls.

    - All of the holes need to be smaller (or maybe they just appear large in your renderings given the scale). I would suggest 4mm diameter. I would actually probably build into all housing all of the holes and make them on both sides regardless for flexibility/interchangeability (or I might just do a single hole at the back - cut maybe doesn't conceal as well in some spots?). If you put the hole in the base more towards the back and aligned the side holes with the bottom holes, then you could actually run the wiring one of four ways. I've attached a rough representation of how the holes could be made universal with the housing fitting over the base and allowing for wiring either down or laterally on either side.

    - Another idea I just thought of to omit the need for a screw. You could key the bottom mount in such a way that the housing slide from the back forward to lock into position via friction fit. In this case you would certainly need the single hole at the back of the housing instead of the side holes, I think.

    If you are not really interested in doing design changes for mass production, then I can certainly use your idea and design a new housing. I really don't want to step on your toes here, but I know there is going to be demand for these and not everyone has the tools or ability to create them.
    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    #30 78 days ago

    OP, for testing purposes did you find the Opmax round circuit boards to be the same diameter as their standard single SMD ones? I've got plenty of cheap bulbs laying around for testing purposes instead of placing a special order just for an Opmax bulb, so thought I would ask.

    FYI: I've actually done something similar for a mod I offer where I separate the LED from the housing of a Comet bulb and embed it into my own 3D printed housing. I works quite well.

    #31 78 days ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    I kind of like how they look mounted on posts.
    I do have a couple of requests/observations:
    - I think it would look better/more finished if the housing was designed to completely fit over the base instead of butting up against it. For the sloped bases, they could be designed where the ramp part that extended below the housing was wider to be flush with the outside housing walls.
    - All of the holes need to be smaller (or maybe they just appear large in your renderings given the scale). I would suggest 4mm diameter. I would actually probably build into all housing all of the holes and make them on both sides regardless for flexibility/interchangeability (or I might just do a single hole at the back - cut maybe doesn't conceal as well in some spots?). If you put the hole in the base more towards the back and aligned the side holes with the bottom holes, then you could actually run the wiring one of four ways. I've attached a rough representation of how the holes could be made universal with the housing fitting over the base and allowing for wiring either down or laterally on either side.
    - Another idea I just thought of to omit the need for a screw. You could key the bottom mount in such a way that the housing slide from the back forward to lock into position via friction fit. In this case you would certainly need the single hole at the back of the housing instead of the side holes, I think.
    If you are not really interested in doing design changes for mass production, then I can certainly use your idea and design a new housing. I really don't want to step on your toes here, but I know there is going to be demand for these and not everyone has the tools or ability to create them.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    You aren't stepping on my toes. feel free to copy or change whatever you want. I may incorporate feedback into my design but if you're wanting to productize it, it probably makes sense to start your own cad from scratch. A few hours of design not a big deal in the grand scheme.

    I agree it would look cleaner if the housing went over the base. I will probably redesign it to do that.
    The wiring hole on the back side is 7mm. It could be a little smaller, but this is where I've soldered the resistor leads to the wire, and have heatshrink over it. so it's somewhat thick.
    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    If the housing goes over base, I would probably just get rid of the base around the mounting tab, so that wires could run freely under there. That's good wire routing for places like slings where wireforms create gap between spotlight in plastic, or somewhere the spotlight would overhand the plastic. On slings the wiring is almost invisible. here's the base with the reduced front of the base (have not made rest of base smaller yet to allow housing to fit over it)
    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    As far as friction fit vs screw. I did originally try a fiction fit. see my original post. both the male and female tabs are tapered. Pinball machines are violent. it came loose. Your idea is better than mine, but yeah you are limited on the wiring and I'm afraid it would still come loose. Screw works great and isn't visible. (if you can see the screw, you can see the bulb, which is a problem.

    The reason I did the hole to the side is so i could try to have as little wire showing as possible. with a 3d printer i can choose for each one no hole, left hole, right hole. To have a single design I guess you will have to make some compromises.

    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    OP, for testing purposes did you find the Opmax round circuit boards to be the same diameter as their standard single SMD ones? I've got plenty of cheap bulbs laying around for testing purposes instead of placing a special order just for an Opmax bulb, so thought I would ask.
    FYI: I've actually done something similar for a mod I offer where I separate the LED from the housing of a Comet bulb and embed it into my own 3D printed housing. I works quite well.

    Opmax is smaller. you can see in my OP what it looks like. it has a metal ring to make it fit standard bulb format, whereas the other bulb's pcb just fits. And that relatively thick disk is what allows a friction fit into the housing. With the other bulbs (I have disassembled 2smd, magnum, others) it's a larger, thin pcb. I would think you'd have to have a smaller diameter hole behind the big diameter hole for it to rest against, and glue it or something. Opmax also looks nicer and more finished from the front. And in my testing it is the brightest. I have a handful of other "bright" comet bulb pcbs on my desk. And while I am a very cheap person, I think i would rather toss them than design a second version of the housing for them.

    One final thing, for Mr_ Tantrum and anyone trying this DIY: be careful with the resistors. you can not stress it as much as a stranded wire, it will eventually break at the PCB(fixable) or at the resistor (not fixable). worse case you have to pick up some of the tiny resistors to replace it.

    #32 78 days ago

    You might want to post this in the 3D printing thread.

    BTW, what's up with the keyboard? Chinese?

    11
    #33 78 days ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    You might want to post this in the 3D printing thread.
    BTW, what's up with the keyboard? Chinese?

    thanks for the reminder. the keyboard legends are Tolkien Dwarvish. Custom keyboards is another hobby of mine, especially with obscure languages. Bottom left is Futurama "Alienese" and bottom right is Inuktitut (of the Inuit people).

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
    #34 78 days ago
    Quoted from Sorokyl:

    thanks for the reminder. the keyboard legends are Tolkien Dwarvish. Custom keyboards is another hobby of mine, especially with obscure languages. Bottom left is Futurama "Alienese" and bottom right is Inuktitut (of the Inuit people).[quoted image]

    No Vulcan or Klingon keyboards?

    That's quite an interesting hobby.

    #35 78 days ago
    Quoted from Sorokyl:

    thanks for the reminder. the keyboard legends are Tolkien Dwarvish. Custom keyboards is another hobby of mine, especially with obscure languages. Bottom left is Futurama "Alienese" and bottom right is Inuktitut (of the Inuit people).[quoted image]

    Just when you think that you're pushing into the most niche areas of an already niche hobby, someone posts about dwarvish keyboards

    #36 77 days ago
    Quoted from Sorokyl:

    I would think you'd have to have a smaller diameter hole behind the big diameter hole for it to rest against, and glue it or something.

    One final thing, for Mr_ Tantrum and anyone trying this DIY: be careful with the resistors. you can not stress it as much as a stranded wire, it will eventually break at the PCB(fixable) or at the resistor (not fixable). worse case you have to pick up some of the tiny resistors to replace it.

    I concur with both of your statements. My LED barrels I utilize for illuminating the JP sling dino eyes have an internal rim so that the PCB sits against it bringing the SMD flush with the top of the barrel. I've made dozens of these, and you do have to be careful when you are separating the LEDs from the housings and installing them as the tiny resisters are somewhat delicate. Once installed, this particular designs restricts any movement/bending of the leads as I solder them on the outside and similar to you utilize shrink wrap tubing that gets lodged up into the lead holes.

    BTW, I noticed you utilized a bayonet bulb instead of a wedge. I typically find the wedge bulbs easier to disassemble but could be missing something. Was this a purposeful choice on your part, or were you just using the bulbs you happened to have on hand?

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    #37 77 days ago
    Quoted from Sorokyl:

    As far as friction fit vs screw. I did originally try a fiction fit. see my original post. both the male and female tabs are tapered. Pinball machines are violent. it came loose. Your idea is better than mine, but yeah you are limited on the wiring and I'm afraid it would still come loose. Screw works great and isn't visible. (if you can see the screw, you can see the bulb, which is a problem.
    The reason I did the hole to the side is so i could try to have as little wire showing as possible. with a 3d printer i can choose for each one no hole, left hole, right hole. To have a single design I guess you will have to make some compromises.

    I think your ideas are sound here and all make sense. I'm just trying to think of ways to minimize production efforts and parts when scaled to doing at least a few dozen of them. All of the options may lead to confusion and incorrect ordering, and might even have to include a hex wrench with orders (can't assume everyone has one the correct size). Color of filament, color of bulb (cool, warm, etc.), hole on left, right, or none, and other elements to consider. I think what you've come up with is a great DIY spotlight solution, which is the only reason why I'm considering doing something similar for those who like the idea but don't have the skills/equipment to DIY their own. BTW, I've still not fully committed to producing these, but am earnestly exploring the possibility.

    #38 77 days ago

    Here is an X-acto blade holder I made with a sliding grooved sliding lid. This is what I'm thinking to try with the spotlight base plate and housing. You would mount the base plate and then slide the LED housing over it. The friction fit can be quite snug. Who knows if it will actually work or not but have to design and test to find out.

    IMG_0282 (resized).JPGIMG_0282 (resized).JPG
    #39 77 days ago
    Quoted from Sorokyl:

    You aren't stepping on my toes. feel free to copy or change whatever you want. I may incorporate feedback into my design but if you're wanting to productize it, it probably makes sense to start your own cad from scratch. A few hours of design not a big deal in the grand scheme.
    I agree it would look cleaner if the housing went over the base. I will probably redesign it to do that.
    The wiring hole on the back side is 7mm. It could be a little smaller, but this is where I've soldered the resistor leads to the wire, and have heatshrink over it. so it's somewhat thick.
    [quoted image]
    If the housing goes over base, I would probably just get rid of the base around the mounting tab, so that wires could run freely under there. That's good wire routing for places like slings where wireforms create gap between spotlight in plastic, or somewhere the spotlight would overhand the plastic. On slings the wiring is almost invisible. here's the base with the reduced front of the base (have not made rest of base smaller yet to allow housing to fit over it)
    [quoted image]
    As far as friction fit vs screw. I did originally try a fiction fit. see my original post. both the male and female tabs are tapered. Pinball machines are violent. it came loose. Your idea is better than mine, but yeah you are limited on the wiring and I'm afraid it would still come loose. Screw works great and isn't visible. (if you can see the screw, you can see the bulb, which is a problem.
    The reason I did the hole to the side is so i could try to have as little wire showing as possible. with a 3d printer i can choose for each one no hole, left hole, right hole. To have a single design I guess you will have to make some compromises.

    Opmax is smaller. you can see in my OP what it looks like. it has a metal ring to make it fit standard bulb format, whereas the other bulb's pcb just fits. And that relatively thick disk is what allows a friction fit into the housing. With the other bulbs (I have disassembled 2smd, magnum, others) it's a larger, thin pcb. I would think you'd have to have a smaller diameter hole behind the big diameter hole for it to rest against, and glue it or something. Opmax also looks nicer and more finished from the front. And in my testing it is the brightest. I have a handful of other "bright" comet bulb pcbs on my desk. And while I am a very cheap person, I think i would rather toss them than design a second version of the housing for them.
    One final thing, for Mr_ Tantrum and anyone trying this DIY: be careful with the resistors. you can not stress it as much as a stranded wire, it will eventually break at the PCB(fixable) or at the resistor (not fixable). worse case you have to pick up some of the tiny resistors to replace it.

    I ordered the leds I linked to earlier and will arrive today. I’ll give them a shot and report back. Will also design our own holder to fit these specific leds and see what kind of result I get.

    #40 77 days ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    BTW, I noticed you utilized a bayonet bulb instead of a wedge. I typically find the wedge bulbs easier to disassemble but could be missing something. Was this a purposeful choice on your part, or were you just using the bulbs you happened to have on hand?
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Yeah i should have specified, you definitely want wedge bulbs (will go back and edit this). Bayonet both times i broke the resistor off at the pcb and had to resolder it. You can do it, just more of a pain. I just had some on hand and ran out of wedge ones. Next time i will order only wedge.

    #41 77 days ago

    Printing first prototype now. Just thinking my base may need to be thinner to accommodate post thread w/o much extension. Currently 1.8 mm but can probably cut it down to 1.2 mm given the flange is .6 mm. I'll have to see how it prints and test fit in machines.
    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    #42 77 days ago

    Played around with this a little today and this is what we came up with. I think they put out good light, are very low profile, almost invisible and can be mounted over a playfield screw or be applied on any plastic using mounting tape, which is what I have done in the pics. They blend in very well.

    Since there is no objection from the op to sell these, we are going to offer these at what I think is a very reasonable $7.50 each plus shipping, at least until I can gauge what demand is. I will offer them in cool, natural or warm white.

    https://lermods.com/products/low-profile-spotlights

    IMG_0825 (resized).jpegIMG_0825 (resized).jpegIMG_0826 (resized).jpegIMG_0826 (resized).jpegIMG_0827 (resized).jpegIMG_0827 (resized).jpeg

    #43 77 days ago
    Quoted from Lermods:

    Played around with this a little today and this is what we came up with. I think they put out good light, are very low profile, almost invisible and can be mounted over a playfield screw or be applied on any plastic using mounting tape, which is what I have done in the pics. They blend in very well.
    Since there is no objection from the op to sell these, we are going to offer these at what I think is a very reasonable $7.50 each plus shipping, at least until I can gauge what demand is. I will offer them in cool, natural or warm white, but currently only have cool white in stock.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    I'll take 6 of them in cool white when you are ready.

    #44 77 days ago
    Quoted from Garrett:

    I'll take 6 of them in cool white when you are ready.

    Link to our site added.

    #45 76 days ago

    Did my first print and pieces game out good. Need to adjust my slot a little, and I may make the housing slightly beefier by a mm or two given they are a little fragile (I broke the test part I made by sqeezing it too hard.

    Just put my Comet order in with some Optimax bulbs today for testing.

    IMG_0285 (resized).JPGIMG_0285 (resized).JPG

    #46 76 days ago
    Quoted from Lermods:

    Played around with this a little today and this is what we came up with. I think they put out good light, are very low profile, almost invisible and can be mounted over a playfield screw or be applied on any plastic using mounting tape, which is what I have done in the pics. They blend in very well.
    Since there is no objection from the op to sell these, we are going to offer these at what I think is a very reasonable $7.50 each plus shipping, at least until I can gauge what demand is. I will offer them in cool, natural or warm white.
    https://lermods.com/products/low-profile-spotlights
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Is the wire going to be exposed like that, or was that just a quick "here's what it's going to look like" pic?

    #47 76 days ago

    Rev 2 ready for test print.

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
    #48 76 days ago
    Quoted from usafstars:

    Is the wire going to be exposed like that, or was that just a quick "here's what it's going to look like" pic?

    The pic I showed was just to illustrate the spotlight mounting bracket. The wire will bend and go down under the plastic and feed below the playfield, just like you would route a wire for any mod. You won’t really see it. The heat shrink will also be smaller.

    #49 76 days ago

    This is interesting and kudos to the OP. I see the pictures and the light output seems the same, but am wondering since the idea of the reflector is to cast the light further. Is this overcome by a brighter bulb, and does that cause more glare in the middle? Would like some light meter tests if possible for comparison, but I am definitely interested - I like the look of the OPs original design the best as being modified by @mr_tantrum, but certainly like Lermods pricing. Glad to see you guys jumping on it. Thanks to Sorokyl for the concept and freely sharing with the pinball community. Oh and like stumblor OP, find the keyboards cool and unique.

    #50 76 days ago
    Quoted from ReadyPO:

    This is interesting and kudos to the OP. I see the pictures and the light output seems the same, but am wondering since the idea of the reflector is to cast the light further. Is this overcome by a brighter bulb, and does that cause more glare in the middle? Would like some light meter tests if possible for comparison, but I am definitely interested - I like the look of the OPs original design the best as being modified by @mr_tantrum, but certainly like Lermods pricing. Glad to see you guys jumping on it. Thanks to Sorokyl for the concept and freely sharing with the pinball community. Oh and like stumblor OP, find the keyboards cool and unique.

    The op noted this earlier. LEDs reflect out in a wider pattern compared to incandescent bulbs, which the reflectors were originally designed for. You can see in my pic that the light is cast pretty wide.

    IMG_0825 (resized).jpegIMG_0825 (resized).jpeg
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