Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I kind of like how they look mounted on posts.
I do have a couple of requests/observations:
- I think it would look better/more finished if the housing was designed to completely fit over the base instead of butting up against it. For the sloped bases, they could be designed where the ramp part that extended below the housing was wider to be flush with the outside housing walls.
- All of the holes need to be smaller (or maybe they just appear large in your renderings given the scale). I would suggest 4mm diameter. I would actually probably build into all housing all of the holes and make them on both sides regardless for flexibility/interchangeability (or I might just do a single hole at the back - cut maybe doesn't conceal as well in some spots?). If you put the hole in the base more towards the back and aligned the side holes with the bottom holes, then you could actually run the wiring one of four ways. I've attached a rough representation of how the holes could be made universal with the housing fitting over the base and allowing for wiring either down or laterally on either side.
- Another idea I just thought of to omit the need for a screw. You could key the bottom mount in such a way that the housing slide from the back forward to lock into position via friction fit. In this case you would certainly need the single hole at the back of the housing instead of the side holes, I think.
If you are not really interested in doing design changes for mass production, then I can certainly use your idea and design a new housing. I really don't want to step on your toes here, but I know there is going to be demand for these and not everyone has the tools or ability to create them.
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You aren't stepping on my toes. feel free to copy or change whatever you want. I may incorporate feedback into my design but if you're wanting to productize it, it probably makes sense to start your own cad from scratch. A few hours of design not a big deal in the grand scheme.
I agree it would look cleaner if the housing went over the base. I will probably redesign it to do that.
The wiring hole on the back side is 7mm. It could be a little smaller, but this is where I've soldered the resistor leads to the wire, and have heatshrink over it. so it's somewhat thick.
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If the housing goes over base, I would probably just get rid of the base around the mounting tab, so that wires could run freely under there. That's good wire routing for places like slings where wireforms create gap between spotlight in plastic, or somewhere the spotlight would overhand the plastic. On slings the wiring is almost invisible. here's the base with the reduced front of the base (have not made rest of base smaller yet to allow housing to fit over it)
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As far as friction fit vs screw. I did originally try a fiction fit. see my original post. both the male and female tabs are tapered. Pinball machines are violent. it came loose. Your idea is better than mine, but yeah you are limited on the wiring and I'm afraid it would still come loose. Screw works great and isn't visible. (if you can see the screw, you can see the bulb, which is a problem.
The reason I did the hole to the side is so i could try to have as little wire showing as possible. with a 3d printer i can choose for each one no hole, left hole, right hole. To have a single design I guess you will have to make some compromises.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:OP, for testing purposes did you find the Opmax round circuit boards to be the same diameter as their standard single SMD ones? I've got plenty of cheap bulbs laying around for testing purposes instead of placing a special order just for an Opmax bulb, so thought I would ask.
FYI: I've actually done something similar for a mod I offer where I separate the LED from the housing of a Comet bulb and embed it into my own 3D printed housing. I works quite well.
Opmax is smaller. you can see in my OP what it looks like. it has a metal ring to make it fit standard bulb format, whereas the other bulb's pcb just fits. And that relatively thick disk is what allows a friction fit into the housing. With the other bulbs (I have disassembled 2smd, magnum, others) it's a larger, thin pcb. I would think you'd have to have a smaller diameter hole behind the big diameter hole for it to rest against, and glue it or something. Opmax also looks nicer and more finished from the front. And in my testing it is the brightest. I have a handful of other "bright" comet bulb pcbs on my desk. And while I am a very cheap person, I think i would rather toss them than design a second version of the housing for them.
One final thing, for Mr_ Tantrum and anyone trying this DIY: be careful with the resistors. you can not stress it as much as a stranded wire, it will eventually break at the PCB(fixable) or at the resistor (not fixable). worse case you have to pick up some of the tiny resistors to replace it.