(Topic ID: 349947)

A modern, minimal spotlight fixture

By Sorokyl

6 months ago


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  • 98 posts
  • 25 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by Sorokyl
  • Topic is favorited by 39 Pinsiders

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    There are 98 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
    #51 5 months ago

    Once I get my bulbs in and mounted in a housing, I'll post some comparison pics. Sometimes can be hard to see in photos, but visually in person it will be pretty obvious. Currently, the spotlight kits I offer with some of my mods include the cone and a really bright Comet Matrix 4x4 Tower (https://www.cometpinball.com/products/4x4-tower). I'm curious as to how the light output will compare. The cone is good with this bulb because it projects the light forward from the SMDs mounted on the perimeter of the tower in addition to the 4 SMDs facing forward.

    #52 5 months ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    Once I get my bulbs in and mounted in a housing, I'll post some comparison pics. Sometimes can be hard to see in photos, but visually in person it will be pretty obvious. Currently, the spotlight kits I offer with some of my mods include the cone and a really bright Comet Matrix 4x4 Tower (https://www.cometpinball.com/products/4x4-tower). I'm curious as to how the light output will compare. The cone is good with this bulb because it projects the light forward from the SMDs mounted on the perimeter of the tower in addition to the 4 SMDs facing forward.

    Here is a comparison of a typical spotlight with a 4 smd bulb compared with the bulb I am using in my low profile spotlight. I would say mine casts light just a little farther and wider. The silver domes actual limit how wide the light is transmitted.

    IMG_0832 (resized).jpegIMG_0832 (resized).jpegIMG_0831 (resized).jpegIMG_0831 (resized).jpegIMG_0830 (resized).jpegIMG_0830 (resized).jpeg
    #53 5 months ago
    Quoted from Lermods:

    The op noted this earlier. LEDs reflect out in a wider pattern compared to incandescent bulbs, which the reflectors were originally designed for. You can see in my pic that the light is cast pretty wide.
    [quoted image]

    Actually i would think it's the opposite:

    A filament inside of a bulb is casing light forward and sideways equally. the only direction its not casing light is back toward the base. Here, the shield helps focus light in a cone

    A LED bulb without the round lense happens to already emit light in a pattern similar to the angle of the reflector cone.

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    #54 5 months ago
    Quoted from Sorokyl:

    Actually i would think it's the opposite:
    A filament inside of a bulb is casing light forward and sideways equally. the only direction its not casing light is back toward the base. Here, the shield helps focus light in a cone
    A LED bulb without the round lense happens to already emit light in a pattern similar to the angle of the reflector cone.
    [quoted image]

    I don’t have any incandescent bulbs to test but it’s kind of a moot point. I think what we want to be more concerned with is how the silver dome affects the distribution of light and here I think it limits how wide it is compared to the low profile spot you developed and I mimicked. I know the COB led I’m using casts light fairly evenly across 180 degrees.

    #55 5 months ago

    I think my housing design is done. Going to need a slight tweak as the base sliding on is a little tight. I just put a short wire in for visualization purposes.

    IMG_0286 (resized).JPGIMG_0286 (resized).JPGIMG_0287 (resized).JPGIMG_0287 (resized).JPG
    #56 5 months ago
    Quoted from Lermods:

    Here is a comparison of a typical spotlight with a 4 smd bulb compared with the bulb I am using in my low profile spotlight. I would say mine casts light just a little farther and wider. The silver domes actual limit how wide the light is transmitted.
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    My real curiosity is new design vs. the cone/bulb combo I use now which is super bright. Here's an example where I'm throwing light from one onto my Getaway mountain mod.

    Spot off
    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    Spot On
    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    #57 5 months ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    My real curiosity is vs. the cones/bulb combo I use now which are super bright. Here's an example where I'm throwing light from one onto my Getaway mountain mod.
    [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    That may be tough to beat as those put out a lot of light, maybe too much.

    #58 5 months ago
    Quoted from Lermods:

    That may be tough to beat as those put out a lot of light, maybe too much.

    Certainly can be more of a floodlight at times. Just depends on what your lighting objective is. Just curious if new style can be a 100% replacement or used is specific situations what a spotlight is more appropriate.

    #59 5 months ago

    Well, I'm an idiot. I just printed a version where the two parts fit perfectly, then it hit me. If I screw down the base then when I try to slide the housing in place there's a nut in the way (surprised nobody pointed that out) . . . you guys are devious.

    New idea will be to design a base/housing combo where the base is screwed down then the housing pops down and locks into place as I'm still trying to avoid having any hardware involved.

    #60 5 months ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    Well, I'm an idiot. I just printed a version where the two parts fit perfectly, then it hit me. If I screw down the base then when I try to slide the housing in place there's a nut in the way (surprised nobody pointed that out - you guys are devious.
    New idea will be to design a base/housing combo where the base is screwed down then the housing pops down and locks into place as I'm still trying to avoid having any hardware involved.

    We were just waiting to see how long it would take you to realize it. Looking forward to the results of all this R/D.

    #61 5 months ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    Well, I'm an idiot. I just printed a version where the two parts fit perfectly, then it hit me. If I screw down the base then when I try to slide the housing in place there's a nut in the way (surprised nobody pointed that out) . . . you guys are devious.
    New idea will be to design a base/housing combo where the base is screwed down then the housing pops down and locks into place as I'm still trying to avoid having any hardware involved.

    Eh, been there done that on other things. I was kind of wondering why your base was sliding. We just added a tab on the back of ours, one piece design and if people don’t want to use the tab, mounting tape on the bottom allows it to be placed anywhere. Plus, it can also be used in applications where there is a double spotlight present as they can be stacked.

    IMG_0833 (resized).jpegIMG_0833 (resized).jpeg
    #62 5 months ago

    I have a working prototype housing where the base is mounted and then the top snaps into place over it. My main concern is that this design method results in a somewhat "permeant" installation. Once the base is mounted and the housing is snapped into place on top of it, the housing is not easily removed and in my testing because of the thin/small walls and elements of the two parts it is probable that one or both pieces will be damaged when separating.

    I really like the idea of the spotlight hiding the mounting nut and for it to not require any hardware for installation (i.e. a set screw). I may go back to doing something closer to the OP's original design, but where the shell fits down over the base. I'm still a little concerned about the tab on the base that the shell slides over, as in reality this is a tiny piece that will be pretty fragile.

    When it comes right down to it, this may just be something that I don't want to offer as a finished mod to others given the overall fragility of it. It's one thing to make a few for your own games, but an entirely other thing if people are going to buy them, install them, and then have issues with them breaking if they are not extremely careful with them.

    I'll redesign one more time to test my ideas and after that make a decision if I will sell to others or not.

    #63 5 months ago

    After redesigning and testing, while my housing theoretically works, I still think that due to the small size the 3D print is too fragile for me to be confident in selling it as a mod. When installing and/or taking it apart I consistently either crack/break the housing or the base in some way. I could probably theoretically increase the overall size of the components to make them more durable (possibly double or so), but doing so would defeat the initial purpose.

    #64 4 months ago
    Quoted from Lermods:

    Eh, been there done that on other things. I was kind of wondering why your base was sliding. We just added a tab on the back of ours, one piece design and if people don’t want to use the tab, mounting tape on the bottom allows it to be placed anywhere. Plus, it can also be used in applications where there is a double spotlight present as they can be stacked.
    [quoted image]

    Installed a couple of Lermods low profile lights in a DE JP. Very good brightness and spread.

    I have also ordered a Comet LED spotlight kit they offer and will put in a DE R&B and compare the results.

    The Comets spot lights are large like Pinstadium and expensive compared to your design Lermod.

    I'll probably be ordering a few more from you for the R&B. They work great and are unobtrusive on the playfield.

    Anyone have a solution for a DE trough light mod? The Comet version doesn't really work in that apron design.

    IMG_2207 (resized).jpegIMG_2207 (resized).jpeg

    #65 4 months ago
    IMG_2207 (resized).jpegIMG_2207 (resized).jpeg
    #66 4 months ago
    Quoted from Garrett:

    [quoted image]

    That game is lit up pretty good. I see one on the left sling. Can you please point out where else you have them, I can’t seem to find them in your pics. Thx

    #67 4 months ago
    Quoted from Lermods:

    That game is lit up pretty good. I see one on the left sling. Can you please point out where else you have them, I can’t seem to find them in your pics. Thx

    Lower left sling by the ramp support.

    The other is just below the upper right flipper.

    #68 4 months ago

    made the suggested change for the body to go over the base.
    made some tweaks to make it print more cleanly (less sharp edges, even internally). the
    If any part of the body hangs over a plastic, you can use the no hole version now.
    On the version with the hole, I moved the hole up further. didn't make sense to have it near the back since you see it from the back.
    I'll share the STLs and photos of my MMR with about 6-8 of these in it within a few days.

    hole (resized).pnghole (resized).pngprint example (resized).pngprint example (resized).pngside2 (resized).pngside2 (resized).png
    #69 4 months ago

    Update on our spots. We had an issue with non-stern spike (e.g., stern Whitestar/SAM, DE, SEGA, BW) games where the led was getting too hot and burning out so we pulled them. We reconfigured it with a diode added. A fellow pinsider tested it on his DE game and I tested it on my tspp (SAM) and happy to report that we are back in business. Spots are now back on our website with choices for stern spike and all other games. Thanks to all for being patient.

    https://lermods.com/products/low-profile-spotlights?variant=47869142008130

    #71 4 months ago

    These are awesome ideas! I hate the big silver cones - they invariably get nailed by airballs and break...

    #72 4 months ago
    Quoted from redman822:

    These are awesome ideas! I hate the big silver cones - they invariably get nailed by airballs and break...

    I have the Lermod spots. Will have some photos up soon of the DE JP and R&B.

    #73 4 months ago

    Here’s a warm white installed on a jaws pro lighting up the sign.

    If anyone wants the stl file for the spotlight housing for personal use, we are happy to offer it. We just ask that you don’t use it to sell them.

    7C144A74-1C8D-4228-AA28-3ED4E58D3B65 (resized).jpeg7C144A74-1C8D-4228-AA28-3ED4E58D3B65 (resized).jpegIMG_0973 (resized).jpegIMG_0973 (resized).jpeg
    #74 4 months ago

    Nearly done with MMR. Maybe a couple more days. Starting to think 8 spotlights and 3 led strips was too much. Have all the spots on here except for the last 2 I am putting to light the towers. It's so much brighter than my GZ. It's a pain building and installing these, especially since with the 7 bulbs I added inside the castle itself I decided I needed to pull straight from the power supply via a buck converter. Didn't want to overload part of the gi circuit. But... I feel like I can't not do it to all my games now.

    PXL_20240229_020241939.MP (resized).jpgPXL_20240229_020241939.MP (resized).jpg
    #75 4 months ago

    I like it when you can actually see the playfield and artwork.

    #76 4 months ago

    can you circle all of them? I can find 4....
    i wasn't ever very good at those waldo books...

    #77 4 months ago

    It's a cool concept and they are so small that they blend in quite well. I think there's a market for them. I really don't want radar dishes on my playfield.

    Pinside_forum_8053133_0 (resized).jpgPinside_forum_8053133_0 (resized).jpg

    #78 4 months ago

    For those that have a DE game and use sand resistors on the GI relay with LED's to prevent seizures, Lermod's mini spots will turn totally off. Nice.

    You can see the spot in the last two pictures;
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/is-there-a-data-east-gi-anti-seizure-mod#post-8054801

    #79 4 months ago

    Work has been a bitch for last couple of weeks. but I finally finished my MMR.
    I have published my latest design to printables:
    https://www.printables.com/model/755761-sorokyls-minimal-pinball-spotlight-fixture

    I put 8 of these in my MMR. (At the same time I added 4 LED strips, lit the castle interior, painted the castle, lit the skull eyes, added mirror blades, and a bit of maintenence)

    It was too bright! But since I had put so much lighting in, I added a buck converter to get my own 5V from the 12V supply. so I was able to turn the voltage down to 4.2V which was a sweet spot for how much light i added.
    PXL_20240301_224743957.MP (resized).jpgPXL_20240301_224743957.MP (resized).jpgv3mmr (resized).pngv3mmr (resized).png

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
    #80 4 months ago
    Quoted from Sorokyl:

    Work has been a bitch for last couple of weeks. but I finally finished my MMR.
    I have published my latest design to printables:
    https://www.printables.com/model/755761-sorokyls-minimal-pinball-spotlight-fixture
    I put 8 of these in my MMR. (At the same time I added 4 LED strips, lit the castle interior, painted the castle, lit the skull eyes, added mirror blades, and a bit of maintenence)
    It was too bright! But since I had put so much lighting in, I added a buck converter to get my own 5V from the 12V supply. so I was able to turn the voltage down to 4.2V which was a sweet spot for how much light i added.
    [quoted image][quoted image]
    [quoted image]

    Looks good. Did you tie all the spots together? If you did, you could get a dimmer module to turn them down. What you did, of course, works too.

    #81 4 months ago
    Quoted from Lermods:

    Looks good. Did you tie all the spots together? If you did, you could get a dimmer module to turn them down. What you did, of course, works too.

    I used the buck converter because I was just worried about overloading the gi circuit. I couldn't get any information about how much more I could add. Especially since I have a couple of your led strip products already on it.

    4 weeks later
    #82 3 months ago

    This is awesome!!! Is anyone sharing the STL’s ?

    #83 3 months ago

    Also, wonder if using a 6v smd could be a viable option. Definitely a cost saver as one optimax is like $2.50, and 1k smd’s are the same price lol
    IMG_1509 (resized).pngIMG_1509 (resized).png

    #84 3 months ago
    Quoted from Soulrider911:

    Also, wonder if using a 6v smd could be a viable option. Definitely a cost saver as one optimax is like $2.50, and 1k smd’s are the same price lol
    [quoted image]

    Sorry, they were buried mid thread, I just edited post 1 with the link:
    https://www.printables.com/model/755761-sorokyls-minimal-pinball-spotlight-fixture

    I started off looking at SMDs, but decided to use comet bulbs because:
    I had some
    They have PCB
    They have resistors
    They have diodes (useful so you don't have to worry about polarity)

    If I was going to sell thousands of these, of course would buy SMDs and design my own thing. But I'm not. I'm spending hours and hours designing the fixture in cad, 3d printing, soldering wires, installing in the machine... For MMr. I even worked out auxillary power/dimming solution. If I value my time that's hundreds of dollars. So I'm not sweating the $10-20 of bulbs per machine

    But, if you come up something different let us know!

    #85 3 months ago
    Quoted from Sorokyl:

    Sorry, they were buried mid thread, I just edited post 1 with the link:
    https://www.printables.com/model/755761-sorokyls-minimal-pinball-spotlight-fixture
    I started off looking at SMDs, but decided to use comet bulbs because:
    I had some
    They have PCB
    They have resistors
    They have diodes (useful so you don't have to worry about polarity)
    If I was going to sell thousands of these, of course would buy SMDs and design my own thing. But I'm not. I'm spending hours and hours designing the fixture in cad, 3d printing, soldering wires, installing in the machine... For MMr. I even worked out auxillary power/dimming solution. If I value my time that's hundreds of dollars. So I'm not sweating the $10-20 of bulbs per machine
    But, if you come up something different let us know!

    This is great knowledge you clearly did your homework on this!! I can’t wait to make some of these. Thank you for the great work!

    2 weeks later
    #86 88 days ago

    This week I got TMNT, and reconfigured my little arcade to it's "final" form to fit 6 pins (just waiting on labyrinth)
    I am trying hard to create a nostalgic 90s arcade atmosphere with my lighting. The room itself is dark grey, window blacked out. It has 4 lights on the ceiling which "breath" through all colors independently. The pins have blacklight strips under them for the carpet, there are blacklights mounted elsewhere including on Foo which is my designated "UV" game.

    For the pins themselves, warm white light is very important. So is the pins being bright enough to play in a dark room.

    TMNT looks pitiful in there compared to my other pins. Which is a shame because it's such a colorful, beautiful game (one of the main reasons I bought it). only 1/3rd of the GI bulbs are white, and it's cool white. I dunno man. It's bad. So I'm focusing on that pin next.

    Because of what a pain in the ass these mini spots are, I did consider doing diy stadium lighting. I have pinstadium fusion neon ultra max magnum whatever on my IMDN, which is out in the garage, but I don't love it. The GI kind of washes everything out, you miss the glow from underlit plastics. The flashers overpower everything. Alligator clips yucks. visual impediment of the channels on the sides, partially obscuring the art blades. As I compared all my pins, I realized I really prefer the mini-spotlight approach. It's a scalpel whereas stadium lighting is a sledge hammer. You still get some moodiness with the mini spots. It's not perfectly consistent lighting, but it's good enough.

    Here's me comparing all of my modern pins, and what i've done to them GI wise. I'll work on TMNT first, then maybe lower half of GZ. Top half of GZ i want to wait until my stumblor backboard is complete. I want to light those up somehow. Also have diddy buildings to install, and want to light those / use them to mount lights to.

    Have some cool ideas on TMNT to try, hope to share if it works out.

    pasted_image.pngpasted_image.png
    Added 77 days ago:

    invalid photo, start of game has different GI

    #87 88 days ago

    drawing of how I currently have spotlights (black) and where i plan to add (blue)

    pasted_image.pngpasted_image.png
    #88 88 days ago

    I added one to my TOTAN to "shed some light" on the Genie. Works great, I love how unobtrusive these little lights are. I just worry about heat warping the housing over time, due to how thin the shell is.

    IMG_1594 (resized).jpgIMG_1594 (resized).jpg
    #89 88 days ago
    Quoted from Soulrider911:

    I added one to my TOTAN to "shed some light" on the Genie. Works great, I love how unobtrusive these little lights are. I just worry about heat warping the housing over time, due to how thin the shell is.

    That's a fair concern. I typically print in ABS (glass transition temp of 105C) but PLA has a glass transition temp of 60C so I wondered. I took my multimeter and held it against the bulb face and it was like 33C. the housing was 28C. not a very scientific measurement. but if i hold my finger on it it's barely warm. Your printer bed for PLA is 60C. I am not telling anyone to hold their finger on their printer bed, but if your spotlight is colder than that, you should be good.

    I picked up some ABS-like resin to try and print some fixtures (i do hate layer lines in pinball machines) but its grey.. and i dislike painting these, so i'll have to find a place im ok with grey

    #90 82 days ago
    Quoted from Sorokyl:

    only 1/3rd of the GI bulbs are white, and it's cool white. I dunno man. It's bad.

    At the risk of derailing the thread, good call. TMNT almost as bad as the 2012 Avengers pin, which looked like an xmas tree with those red, green & blue GI bulbs scattered around the playfield.

    Maybe for TMNT you could try something like warm white, orange, red, to give a warm gradient. I'm so anti-color GI that I'd probably just say screw it and put warm white in all the GI sockets, but I realize most folks wouldn't want to lose the color changing effect.

    #91 81 days ago
    Quoted from yancy:

    At the risk of derailing the thread, good call. TMNT almost as bad as the 2012 Avengers pin, which looked like an xmas tree with those red, green & blue GI bulbs scattered around the playfield.
    Maybe for TMNT you could try something like warm white, orange, red, to give a warm gradient. I'm so anti-color GI that I'd probably just say screw it and put warm white in all the GI sockets, but I realize most folks wouldn't want to lose the color changing effect.

    I've never noticed this. but now i bet it will stick out when i go play in this evening...

    #92 77 days ago

    Finished TMNT.
    No change to the spotlight fixture STL this time. I am pretty happy with it and will keep using it as is.
    Note I did print some in an abs-like resin on my DLP printer... because i really do not like layer lines inside my pinball machine, but I didn't love the finish of those either. I am using some sparkly abs (fusion) which hides the layer lines a bit form a distance (but photo below if curious about the resin)

    I was very unfair to it above. When you hit start, and go into turtle select, the white GI dims and the red/green get bright. It does look stupid, especially in photos, but that's not how the game looks in attract mode or normal gameplay. So these photos are taken at ball 2 after turtle select.

    I wound up doing the following GI lighting changes:
    5 mini spotlights. one on each sling, two outside the flippers, and one shining on van.
    All white GI -> warm white
    Many existing 2SMD -> opmax
    20" LED strip above backboard (remove white bulbs in backboard)
    Bend apron led boards forward to reduce shadows in outlanes (helps a lot actually)
    Move the single white GI bulbs under slings from bottom of sling to top (made a big difference)

    The LED strip really helped a lot, as I was having trouble figuring out how to light the back half of the playfield. I may put a dimmer on it. But it does reduce backbox glare considerably.

    As big of a fan of warm white as I am, I may have gone too far. Looking at the photo of the 3 games, I like how GZ has a cooler area in the middle. (caused by cool white spotlights). I may change the led strip to sunlight and change some bulbs to sunlight.

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image.pngpasted_image.pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
    #93 75 days ago

    Awesome work on TMNT. From the overhead shot it matches FF perfectly. I see what you mean about GZ having a cool spot in the middle, but if anything I'd say it's the odd man out in a gameroom where you're focusing on old-school vibes.

    I think GZ's art in particular can stand some cool in the middle section. For TMNT there's a lot of yellow / flesh / pizza / rat colored stuff near the middle that would get washed out under cool white.

    Zombie Yeti sure does make a pretty game.

    #94 73 days ago

    I have a Labyrinth on the way, and I know I want to use these mini spots. However, I wanted to take the amazing work already done on the spot light housing and sculp one that could be painted and dry bruhsed to give a rock like appearance. Here it is so far, and this model will work with the existing mounting plate.

    Screenshot 2024-04-30 at 8.05.32?PM (resized).pngScreenshot 2024-04-30 at 8.05.32?PM (resized).png
    #95 73 days ago
    Quoted from Soulrider911:

    I have a Labyrinth on the way, and I know I want to use these mini spots. However, I wanted to take the amazing work already done on the spot light housing and sculp one that could be painted and dry bruhsed to give a rock like appearance. Here it is so far, and this model will work with the existing mounting plate.
    [quoted image]

    Very cool. Please share STL when done. I need to add spotlights to my lotr slings which I textured. The rocks would be perfect.

    image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
    #96 73 days ago
    Quoted from Sorokyl:

    Very cool. Please share STL when done. I need to add spotlights to my lotr slings which I textured. The rocks would be perfect.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Nice work! How have you secured their little Hobbit feets?

    #97 73 days ago
    Quoted from PinballShoppe:

    Nice work! How have you secured their little Hobbit feets?

    So I bought all new figures (old routed game). Same line as used originally. They come with bases that have pegs for the feet. A little superglue and it's quite stuck. Then I just used some texture paints to tie it in. It's quite an upgrade from how stern did it!
    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    2 months later
    #98 6 days ago

    added 7 spotlights to my GZ, including replacing the 2 clunky spotlights (building an GZ)
    I was able to use the Naegle building to hide 3 of the spotlights completely.
    I did a mix of sunlight and warm to have warm/cool areas of the playfield based on artwork/sculpts. the socketed bulbs are almost all warm white. Turned out nice i think.

    Next up is Labyrinth which should be delivered in a couple of weeks. Then removing Pinstadium from Iron Maiden.

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