I just added some lights in my cellar holes. I tapped into the GI and added some sockets with cool white flex LEDs from pinball life.

image.jpg

image_1.jpg

Here's the rubber pad page from the parts catalog.

http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_Red_16-9190-B/index.html#/616/

That looks nice!

im having an issue with whirlwind.

I will lock a ball. the next ball pops into the shooter lane. it plays fine. sometimes during game play the ball in the lock will randomly eject back into play. when one ball drains the game keeps playing and the lock light. I can re lock a ball and normal game play resumes. I have checked the switches and they seem to be working normally. is there a short somewhere? a loose connection?
im stumped.

I'd recommend looking for a loose connection. Mine was doing it, I went through the wiring, pulling on them, trying to find a broken wire or loose crimp. I never did find the cause, but it has worked fine since. I'm guessing that it will crop up again later, and I'll end up chopping off the crimp connectors and soldering directly to the switches.

I will keep hunting for a loose wire. thanks.

Any WW or System 11 board experts who can help me out, most appreciated.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whirlwind-solenoid-issues#post-2721743

Last year at expo I noticed mine doing the same thing. I haven't done anything to it yet to fix it but I suspected the switches too. Now that I think about it they do all have crimp connectors on them. I bought 3 new switches any way. Guess Ill just swap them out and solder the wires on.

I have a general setup question. When you hit the ball on the far orbit, through the spinner and down through the lower jet bumpers, at speed, what is the interaction with the jet bumpers? Specifically, which bumper does the ball hit. It seems like the metal rail can be slightly adjusted (like the metal rail to launch a ball into play from the shooter lane) to ensure it does not pass cleanly through. However, it might simply be the age of the machine and force against the rail has resulted in a bit of play at that point. At one point, the ball would pass through and I've adjusted it so it glances off the bottom one of the three.

Yes, it makes a sound as it changes the lit cellar reward.

If it's a microswitch, you can attempt to open and ensure everything is still in place (small lever and spring usually). I have done this successfully before and fixed a part that had come out of place (had to superglue the plastic casing back together though). But there is also good odds that you will break it trying to fix it. I would order a new one (they are cheap) and try to fix it as a learning exercise when it comes in. If you fix it, you now have a spare. If you break it, you have a new one all set to go.

Get multiball 3 times or get all of the cellar awards and get mega cellar door bonus.

They are adjustable?
Hot dam! I need to check this out.

Thanks mof. Every time you post I learn something.

There is no such thing as 'best.' Make it for how you want it. I keep mine in the middle on all the games, unless I have family over. Then I move it down, since they are not pinball players to make it a little easier.

What does this question mean?

Oh, I got it. You want to know what use the left scoop is other than a multiball restart. The answer: No use at all.

I had the exact same issue. It was the second switch in the lock lane. Check them again with a meter. I was chasing this one for the longest time. Was convinced it was a bad chip or something on the driver board.

I found the connector on the switch was loose. I snugged it down and it's working fine now. Thanks for the tip.

Lock switches and trough switches are usually the culprit for these issues in my experience. Mine will continuously kick the ball out of the trough with two locked and the third ball in play until I hit release. So I am assuming that either one of the lock switches is off or the trough itself has an issue. I am getting ready to do a full tear down anyways so I will figure it out then for sure.

The outhole under the ramp has gotten progressively weaker to the point that I need to replace it. Interestingly, there is an AE-26-1500 in there now, however, when I look in my manual, it states that it should be a 23-800. Since I know the manuals are not always correct, I'm hoping someone can look and see what coil they have.
Thanks

Before spending the 14 bucks on a coil, replace the coil sleeve and coil stop. Re-solder the wires to the lugs, and clean the mini subway. I bet you see a good improvement.

This is the outhole under the right ramp, so no mini subway. Yes, because I am cheap, I had already replaced the sleeve and stop. I did not resolder since it all seemed fine, but will try that as well.
Thanks

Totally mis read that. Gotta stop posting late!

It is very difficult to go through life as a moron. After resoldering things, I fired it up and it wouldn't even leave the outhole. Upon closer inspection the heavy pad on the 'stop' was just hanging on. Since the adhesive is shot, I took it off and, of course, everything worked fine. (Obviously, I'll need to reattach it to not tear up the balls). Moral of the story... I was so focused on an issue under the playfield, I never noticed the issue was on the playfield. Moron!

Well, it IS also tucked back under the ramp; difficult to see. Without that pad, mine was having a lot of rejected shots if I hit it solid. After replacing the blue pad, it works MUCH better. I think you definitely want to replace it.

Picked up a Whirlwind with a fantastic cabinet. Unfortunately it has a poor playfield and many broken plastics. I see that ramps are still available, but looking for a CPR playfield and plastics set. Does anyone have either of these items you've decided not to use?

Alternatively, since a lot of the professional playfield restorers don't like to do system 11 games, has anyone had one done and who did it?

Thanks,
Michael

I don't know if you'd call it luck...but I finally found a nice Whirlwind a while back. It took 5 road trips to look at 5 different WW's.

Good luck in finding a PF.

It looks likes there's been a lot of recent interest in WW PF's. I wonder when CPR will get around to running them. It's been said that another run will happen.

Tried double sided foam tape, but it looks like I need to get a new one. I think this is it: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/23-6645

Anyhow, since shipping is 8x the cost of the part, I figure it makes sense to bump up my order. I can always get some coil sleeves or LED's; however, are there any parts on a Whirlwind that tend to fail fairly often and, therefore, would be a good thing to have on hand?

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1880

same price, not sure on shipping

never had anything fail...grab an assorted LED bag or a flipper rebuild kit---always need those

I'm a new pin owner and having trouble finding this part for my new whirlwind. It's the light on the ramp that snaps in (there are 3 of them) Mine has broken but can't find a part number in the manual.

here you go.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=67&pg=1

Thanks much!

Hi, I am looking for the Whirlwind long skinny blue plastic piece that goes between the left outlane and where the balls lock for multiball, like in this picture. NOS or repro. Had one and managed to break the dang thing while getting new t-nuts hammered in. It was an easy job that went to hell in a handbasket, not my finest moment, so just trying to get back to square one.
Thanks,
Bill WW plastic 2.jpg

Need some help. The subway VUK comes on and stays locked on whenever I turn the pin on. I suspect the transistor is bad even though it tests OK. I think I am just going to replace it but I'm not sure what type of transistor to replace it with. The transistor is Q7. I think it is a Tip122 based on the schematics. Could someone confirm that for me. Also, what would the pre-driver be and would it make sense to replace that also?
Thanks

Test your pre-driver too, it can cause the issue as well.

Can anyone with Cliffy's on the Cellar Scoops comment on any changes in performance, or adjustments that may be necessary?

Not long after acquiring my Whirlwind, I installed the Cliffys. The left cellar is fine, but the right one became an order of magnitude more frustrating, probably only a 20% "success" rate for shots that seemed likely to go in. It seemed like the ball would "bounce out". I tried everything I could think of: making sure the cliffy edge was flat against the pf... eventually tried to bend that edge "down" to make sure it was flush when installed... adjusted the cellar beneath the pf... adjusted the spinning discs to make sure they were as level as possible and thus not causing the ball to jump... fixing the target adjacent to the scoop so it was not loose and able to move (as it was when I got the machine)... AND of course working on my shot aiming skills.

Finally while doing some maintenance before a party, I just went ahead and removed the Cliffy. Holy crap, what do you know, I can nail that shot over and over and even with a backhand from the left flipper! I just don't understand why the Cliffy would cause so much trouble, especially since the one on the left causes zero issues.

I'd really like to preserve my playfield if possible... but meanwhile there's no doubt the game is much more fun without the cliffy.

Anyone have any ideas?

put them on mine and had no issues...is the scoop on yours stock or a replacement? I put a mantis on another game and when I reapplied the cliffy it was a no go....normally you can bend the scoop open more with a rag and some pliers, channel locks etc.

No issues with the Cliffy's on mine. Both cellar shots easily made. Can you take a picture of it installed and post it? Something sounds like it's amiss.

My diverter is causing me grief - when it activates, it opens fully but bounces back half-closed and sits like that until the coil is de-energized.

Interestingly in that state the coil has just enough power to fight the spring, no more and no less, so if I move the diverter with my hand it moves freely like the spring wasn't even there. As soon as the coil de-energizes the diverter closes normally under the force of the spring as you would expect. And if I fire it manually by grounding at the coil lug, it stays open just fine. Can someone do me a favor and pull the glass from their game, activate the lock sequence and diverter, and try moving it with your hand while it's open? I'm trying to figure out how much power should be at the coil in the "hold open" state - should it be equivalent to having the lug grounded, or is the game able to pulse the coil to keep it open in a lower power state?

Anyone else ever see a problem like this? Doesn't seem mechanical, and the diverter drive transistors tested fine on the meter.

Ugh, the set screw on my diverter was just loose enough to throw me on a wild goose chase. Turns out this is another case of the simplest answer being generally the correct one!

Anyone have some plastics for me possibly?

Need slings, and left and right center playfield plastics.

Hi, my plastic piece I needed is found and being sent, actually had 3 offers in a span of a couple of days, what a great community of people on here ! I don't know how to edit my original post so am just adding here.

Bill

Need some help.. Looking for plastics. See pics. Anyone have any of these? All are cracked. pic 6.JPG

Right_and_left_slings.jpg

Pic_2.jpg

Pic_4.jpg

pic_5.jpg

CPR is supposed to make reproductions again of WW pretty soon.

I'm shopping mine out now so I figured may be I could at least get slings to hold me over.