(Topic ID: 173451)
San Francisco, CA
This is a nice upgrade. Had to go to 2 amp slo blow for diverter coils on f-14. These tend to stay on long and will blow the 1.25 amp fuse quick. Thanks for doing these!
Just installed one in a Firepower that's been shorting the 2amp solenoid fuse (that I put a fuse breaker on)
Thanks to your invetion -- now I know precisely who the culprit is, and I can keep playing... It's the top right pop. I moved the 2amp fuse breaker now to JUST the pop until I put in the time to figure out where the short is...
Now I gotta open a new thread to learn how to best troubleshoot a short in a pop bumper...
thanks!!!!!!
-mof
1 week later
Diode replaced on top right pop (thanks to vid's suggestion) and now I appear to be golden on that pin -- first time since I got it over a year ago.
Your board made all the difference in the troubleshooting. Before, all the special solenoids died and I had no idea where the problem might be.
If you haven't put one of these on every WMS 3-11 pin you own, get it done.
Thank you x 9000.
-mof
Collingwood, ON
Quoted from Joey_N:If I go to the website and 'Buy Now', it seems to immediately go to Paypal. How do you put multiple items in a cart and possibly combine shipping in the process?
my website is in "zero overhead" mode. So i don't have a shopping cart setup.
For multiple items, send me a PM here or use the contact form on the website. I can send you a paypal invoice to an email address.
Thanks
Andrew
6 months later
Ordered one of your diy kits. I look forward to putting together and installing in my jungle lord. I recently had a solenoid lock on due to a bad transistor. This board would have simplified the process I went through in order to track down my problem. Thanks!
2 months later
I added the sol saver to my syst 11 Space Station since I wanted fuses for my jet bumpers. I believe that I came up with a good option for mounting. I used the right side wall of the back box. And instead of connecting it at terminal 1j19 I used 8j3 on the aux power driver board where that same bundle connects. There was enough slack in that bundle to reach my new board. Since there are only six wires in that bundle I didn’t need to be concerned about the two that pass through. The green wire included with the kit was not quite long enough so I built another harness. I made my own custom label as well.
Quoted from barakandl:Similar idea for fusing the AC side of the bridges in WMS 3-11 games. Has holes for wire to board or to use molex 1.56" kk plugs. Would you use something like this?
Probably not this specific board because of the way the connectors are setup. Same reason I don't use the othe dual bridge board out there. I'd rather keep the 1/4" terminal on these.
I'd much rather see a kit of two high quality fuse holders, mounting screws, 8A slow blow fuses, and two jumper wires with the 1/4" terminals ready to go. Add a couple labels and I'm sure you'd sell quite a few.
Your special solenoid board is awesome and very well done. That is plug and play. If this works in system 11 games too I would order another and I know of a couple others with system 11 games like F-14 that would want them too.
Quoted from Robotworkshop:Probably not this specific board because of the way the connectors are setup. Same reason I don't use the othe dual bridge board out there. I'd rather keep the 1/4" terminal on these.
I'd much rather see a kit of two high quality fuse holders, mounting screws, 8A slow blow fuses, and two jumper wires with the 1/4" terminals ready to go. Add a couple labels and I'm sure you'd sell quite a few.
Your special solenoid board is awesome and very well done. That is plug and play. If this works in system 11 games too I would order another and I know of a couple others with system 11 games like F-14 that would want them too.
I created the bridge AC side fuse board for lamps/sol but never followed through with making samples and putting it for sale. I will dig out the boards and see where its at.
2 years later
1 year later
barakandl is this board still available? I was just looking at your website. It says "out of stock" but I can still add the board to my cart. Is it out of stock? What about the DIY kits?
Thanks!
3 weeks later
Quoted from johnboy1313:barakandl is this board still available? I was just looking at your website. It says "out of stock" but I can still add the board to my cart. Is it out of stock? What about the DIY kits?
Thanks!
They are in stock. I fixed the website confusion.
I ordered 3 kits week that are on their way.
I think these saver boards are essential if you have a playfield protector. My protector moved a bit on my Firepower & caught on the edge of the skirt holding it down & causing the coil to lock on - luckily I noticed straight away & switched the machine off.
I won't have to worry if that happens again with these boards.
10 months later
Marsden
Quoted from Incomer:Are these boards still available to buy please?
If so where?
Many thanks
David
https://nvram.weebly.com/wms-sss.html
you'll need to make your own BOM though
Quoted from Incomer:Ah thank you
I had a slightly different web address which gave a 404 error, so I thought it had maybe gone
Ya looks like he’s changed the site a little since I was there last too
3 weeks later
barakandl Do you still have these for sale? didn't see them on the website.
jeepers....looked at my post just up and here
https://nvram.weebly.com/wms-sss.html
cannot find the solenoid saver in the list from browsing the website though.
Quoted from northvibe:barakandl Do you still have these for sale? didn't see them on the website.
jeepers....looked at my post just up and here
https://nvram.weebly.com/wms-sss.html
cannot find the solenoid saver in the list from browsing the website though.
You can no longer buy the kit. Just the PCB. So you have to order the fuse clips, 1.25A SB fuses and one male header and two female Molex connectors (9 pin) and install yourself. Also, I made up my own wiring harness as I have a crimp tool, Trifurcon crimps and plastic blank pins. I used 22 gauge wire with associated 22 gauge Trifurcon crimps.
a771632c7d19d5dd9e0473533f8ea03e5663e7da (resized).jpg
b4d216cba95155bd87dd4ffae9ab234da03d990e (resized).jpg
Also, you will need plastic stand offs for mounting the board.
2 months later
Melbourne
Doesn't look like the 1.25A SB fuse is still being made (or has very limited supply) - available options seem to be either 1A or 1.5A? How many amps are normally drawn and would 1A simply blow in normal operation? Equally would a 1.5A not provide the protection to the upstream components that the saver board is trying to look after? Thanks
Edit: found some 1.25A on eBay 
Bussmann, littelfuse, bel, and probably some Chinese brands manufacture 6.3x32mm 1.25a slow fuses
Beware most Asian and European sized fuses on ebay are technically incorrect size at 6x30mm. You can use those fuses but you really should use the type of fuse clip intended for 6x30mm.
MOQ is 50pcs but typically best price on western brands of fuses.
https://www.tti.com/content/ttiinc/en/apps/part-search.html?searchTerms=Mdl-1-1-4&systemsCatalog=&x=true
Also...
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/eaton-electronics-division/BK-MDL-1-1-4-R/954318
https://www.alliedelec.com/product/eaton-electronics/bk-mdl-1-1-4-r/70149603/
3 months later
So, I bought the parts and installed in my Star Light today. ball was bouncing around in the pops, and all 3 of them blew their fuses. everything has been working fine before installing this.
I read a post in this thread about replacing diodes, I'll definitely do that, but is there anything else to look for? coil ohms test out at 2.9 instead of the 5.3 pinballmedic says the 23-850 should be, but that is installed/connected so may not be an accurate reading
Quoted from BorgDog:So, I bought the parts and installed in my Star Light today. ball was bouncing around in the pops, and all 3 of them blew their fuses. everything has been working fine before installing this.
I read a post in this thread about replacing diodes, I'll definitely do that, but is there anything else to look for? coil ohms test out at 2.9 instead of the 5.3 pinballmedic says the 23-850 should be, but that is installed/connected so may not be an accurate reading
Did you check the value of your fuses? The last kit I ordered came with 1/4A fuses accidentally, instead of 1-1/4A.
Quoted from gutz:Did you check the value of your fuses? The last kit I ordered came with 1/4A fuses accidentally, instead of 1-1/4A.
yeah, the parts were from the digi-key list from his site. definitely 1.25 labeled on them, and actually ceramic ones
replaced the diodes on them, all the old ones tested fine when I pulled them btw. the coils tested at 3 to 3.2 ohms when not connected to anything.
put back together and still blowing the 1.25 amp fuses. to test it out I tried 1.5 amp and they blew as well. have played a few games with 2 amp installed and have not had an issue yet. probably defeating the purpose of putting this in there by using 2 amp though
Quoted from BorgDog:yeah, the parts were from the digi-key list from his site. definitely 1.25 labeled on them, and actually ceramic ones
replaced the diodes on them, all the old ones tested fine when I pulled them btw. the coils tested at 3 to 3.2 ohms when not connected to anything.
put back together and still blowing the 1.25 amp fuses. to test it out I tried 1.5 amp and they blew as well. have played a few games with 2 amp installed and have not had an issue yet. probably defeating the purpose of putting this in there by using 2 amp though
they must be Slow Blow or Time Delay fuses or else they may blow on the first few times the coils fire.
https://www.tti.com/content/ttiinc/en/apps/part-detail.html?partsNumber=BK/MDL-1-1/4-R
Quoted from barakandl:they must be Slow Blow or Time Delay fuses or else they may blow on the first few times the coils fire.
https://www.tti.com/content/ttiinc/en/apps/part-detail.html?partsNumber=BK/MDL-1-1/4-R
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/fuses/139?s=N4IgjCBcpgbFoDGUBmBDANgZwKYBoQB7KAbRACYAGMAdlggKttkpAF0CAHAFyhAGVuAJwCWAOwDmIAL4EALAE4EIZJHTZ8RUiADM5WDTnwCeg3IAc7Lr0gDh4qbN1ydy1etwFikMnMo7DCA4QHj5BUUkZRkpzS2gQmxAAVTERbgB5FABZHDQsAFchHBACfL4AQRKQAFtxPjAAOnIAVirqtAAPeqbWpwBacjcoYXzNbzJWtmkneHiRABM%2BPrBqKtDbKu4AT05i2zzkaaA
I just uploaded the file from your site to digikey and hit order, so assuming they are the correct fuse (yeah, I know). The 1.5 amp I tried that also blew was definitely MDL.
I ran around this same issue for a bit and it turned out that one of my pops spoons was dirty hanging up every 100 pops or so and, my pop drive switches were gaped too close. Took me MONTHS to figure out why my fuses would randomly blow about once per 100 plays.
Quoted from snyper2099:I ran around this same issue for a bit and it turned out that one of my pops spoons was dirty hanging up every 100 pops or so and, my pop drive switches were gaped too close. Took me MONTHS to figure out why my fuses would randomly blow about once per 100 plays.
Thanks for the info. New spoons are actually arriving today, along with me metal yokes to replace broken ones 
4 months later
I hate assembling these things, specifically the fuse clips. Same reason the rectifier board is kit only. Even the kits are tedious counting out crimps. I'm running low on time and it is a lot more lucrative to focus on something like a MPU.
I've got a new design coming out with Little Fuse 154 style holders. People will probably fuss about the fuse choice but they are dirt cheap, littlefuse makes quality stuff, and most importantly can be automatically assembled. I left the holes so you can use a standard 6.3x32mm glass cartridge fuse straddling the LF154 holder.
I still have to order more wiring harness, the wire harness factory just came back from vacation and is slammed, but I plan on offering this again, but it might look a bit different.
Quoted from barakandl:new design
AWESOME NEWS
1 month later
Quoted from barakandl:I hate assembling these things, specifically the fuse clips. Same reason the rectifier board is kit only. Even the kits are tedious counting out crimps. I'm running low on time and it is a lot more lucrative to focus on something like a MPU.
I've got a new design coming out with Little Fuse 154 style holders. People will probably fuss about the fuse choice but they are dirt cheap, littlefuse makes quality stuff, and most importantly can be automatically assembled. I left the holes so you can use a standard 6.3x32mm glass cartridge fuse straddling the LF154 holder.
I still have to order more wiring harness, the wire harness factory just came back from vacation and is slammed, but I plan on offering this again, but it might look a bit different.
I know all about it!
I just spent three hours making this one with your board and parts ordered from Mouser and Digi-Key. One of the longer steps was making the bridge harness. It requires crimping connector contacts onto segments of wire. If you’ve ever done this, you know that the crimp is stepped - one for the 3mm of exposed wire and a larger-gauge one for the wire housing. Very tedious, although not as tedious as desoldering more than half of the fuse clips that I installed in the wrong orientation!! I didn’t realize each clip has an inboard- and outboard side! Thank goodness I also bought a solder sucker from Mouser.
Finally got ‘er in though.
1AD80E07-C528-48C2-A905-75C06731265D (resized).jpeg 9 months later
Quoted from Matthew2000tx:Is this kit or board still available I need some.
scroll down this page https://nvram.weebly.com/wms--de.html
Quoted from Matthew2000tx:Is this kit or board still available I need some.
See my post #78 above.
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