I can make you one using water slide decals. It won't be like the real deal but it won't look bad. PM me if interested.

Thanks for the offer, I do have a repro plastic currently in the game that's ok, but was hoping to find an original plastic to complete the rest of the set which are perfect.

My Quicksilver arrived in a Seawitch cab for safekeeping and my cab isn't here yet so I promptly shuffled it over into a different Witch cab to put some games on it.

Unfortunately my Witch cabinet apparently has a Bally receiver so I had to pull one of the hangers off (it's still level, somehow, but I put a prop rod under it to help support it for the time being).

I'll probably pull it back out soon and wait for my cab to get here. But the allure of putting a few games on it was just too great to resist!

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You have 4 play field support brackets. Two brackets are supporting the front. You really don't even the need the hangers to hold the play field up. Their main purpose is for the lockdown bar to clamp down on them and hold the play field tight to the receiver. And also prevent side-to-side movement in the cab.

I didn't know that a Quicksilver playfield fit in anything other than a Wild Fyre. Always something new to learn.

The play fields are all the same size. The cabs, for the most part, are all the same size. You can swap your Quicksilver and Seawitch play fields into the different cabs, Then swap the MPUs, plug everything in, and start playing.

That particular Seawitch cab is a mess with sidewalls warped inward, making it hard to lift the play field as it drags on the sides of the cab

My Fantastic Pinball Seawitch play field is now loaded on the rotisserie and my Hot Hand cab, soon to be Seawitch cab, got its first coat of primer yesterday. My Pinball Pimp stencils arrived today. My plan is to shoot the light blue color coat on the cab this Saturday, then the dark blue with the black wave accents on Sunday. And then apply the clear on Monday. All depending on the weather.

Making sure the play field support brackets are evened up and that the play field is sitting level in the cab.

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The ugly sidewalls on that Witch cab.

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I was making a joke about all of the Wild Fyre's that were sacrificed to make much better classic Sterns.

https://app.galabid.com/pinballasylum/items/c64f823d-77ef-44fe-9040-45ff973d7231?backPath=%2Fpinballasylum%2Fitems&from=c64f823d-77ef-44fe-9040-45ff973d7231

FYI: a Quicksilver supposed whitewood playfield is up for auction. Currently at just $135.00.

To be clear, this auction is just for the unpopulated play field. The pin has a replacement play field and is not part of the sale.

Correct! Sorry for not being clearer!

I'm betting that is was a blown out play field that was sanded smooth and clear coated.

No picture of backside shown.

There was a guy that brought a Quicksilver to Chicago Expo and claimed it was the whitewood prototype. People pointed out that the playfield had a burn mark from where the artwork was sanded down. A whitewood would not need to be sanded down. This may be the same controversial pin.

It’s the same playfield. Same burn mark from sanding and shooter lane blowout from the prop rod poking through.

Original discussion starts here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-quicksilver-2#post-5268365

Well that sucks.

Just posted one for sale if anybody is interested

Does anyone know who this is? And/or have ordered a lamp panel from them?

ebay.com link: itm

They’re great quality. Have ordered 4 or 5 panels from him. You’ll need* to paint it white though.

*Need vs want, my best take is the white panel helps distribute the light better.

Quicksilver now at The Pinball Palace

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Awesome thanks!

finally starting my quicksilver build. excited

Sweet! What are you starting with?

a Meteor

Sweet! The QS I have was built out of a 9 ball. Good luck with the build. Make sure to share some pics!

I highly recommend you use bonded washers under the posts.

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Sealing-Neoprene-Washers-BCP636/dp/B07K8WHRHN/ref=sr_1_3

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what ball deflector did some of you guys use for the saucer? only thing I'm missing so far.

I cut down one from a black hole, still available from PBR.

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Try this on from marco:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-8250-05

I have that ordered, looks correct. Hopefully it's not like super huge bc they have no description of size for any of them on Marcos lol

Actually, if it is a little wider that is better. The one I had was letting the ball get locked in between the the spinner post and the edge of the deflector.

yea that saucer bracket was way to big lol. looks like I'll have to modify one to work.

slowly getting there. almost ready for harness. just have rebound switches and spinners left to put on.

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Get a Cliffy for that saucer hole.

How is the play field? Are you having any pooling issues around any of the posts?

How long ago did you buy this play field? Is it fairly new from Mirco?

Thanks

I bought it in October last year. I don't see any pooling yet. I do have washers under the posts tho.

Hello fellow Quicksilvarians. I posted in the Stern forum about an issue I'm having with my Quicksilver, sadly I'm yet to resolve the issue, so re-adding here in the hope some Quicksilver genius can lead me to glory. Apologies to those who have seen/responded to my previous post.

So...

Pin has been completely rebuilt, new rectifier board, boards were looked over with the MPU having repairs.

Turning on the pin, it sometimes boots correctly with 7 beeps, sometimes doesn't boot at all giving 0 beeps. However, if you turn off and turn on again it will often boot fine. Upon booting, it may play for a game or 3 or 5, then it crashes. Sometimes it boots, you start a game, it makes an audible noise, then the pin crashes.

Any thoughts? Cables? Boards?

I'd be looking hard at voltages.

Also a possibility: does the MPU have a Hatichi? CPU? Had an aftermarket board with crashing issues, swapping to Motorola fixed it.

Thanks for the reply

There's a new rectifier board in there, so I'm assuming voltages at the source are all is ok, will double check. Any other area in mind to check voltages? Unsure on what brand CPU is installed, can check tomorrow. It's run flawlessly for 2-3 years, only started playing up recently.

Check voltages on the MPU board
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally/Stern#MPU_Test_Point_Values

When you say rebuilt- have the male and female connector pins been replaced?

This. Also, the voltage to boot the MPU comes from the solenoid driver board. That means two connectors that can drop voltage enough to cause this issue. Had the same problem on my EBD and new crimps, connectors and pins fixed it.

Appreciate the link, will go through these today. Some of the problematic connectors were replaced/re-pinned when I restored the pin, will look into the remaining connectors.

I think you might be on the money with this, makes sense. Thanks

So I've tested voltages on the MPU, Solenoid Driver and SB. All are within spec except the 190v on the Solenoid Driver is 180v. Cables visually look to be ok.

I'm delving a little deeper. When I'm able to get the pin to play, two occasions it was crashed with a noticeable solenoid hum. 1st time I was able to track in down to the 4 target bank coil locking on, albeit this target bank worked fine for several resets during the game. The next game was the 3 target bank locking on, again, the 3 target bank worked a number of times successfully before locking on. I've pulled off the solenoid board and both transistors check out ok.

What would cause random coils to lock on?

As voltages are ok it sounds like an MPU fault.
Try swapping U10 & U11 around & see if anything changes. Or alternatively try swapping in some known good U10/U11 PIAs 6821s from another game - stars?
Could try swapping in another solenoid driver board if you have to eliminate. .

So it was:
Start game - Centre drop target coil locking on - crash
Reset game
Start game - Right side drop targets locking on - crash
Reset game
Start game - Outhole locking on - crash
Reset game

** These three "I think" have been the culprit for all previous fails ***

Swapped PIA's

Start game - Right flipper coil locking on - crash
Reset game
Start game - Right flipper coil locking on - crash
Reset game
Start game - Right flipper coil locking on - crash
Reset game

Quicksilver is the only Bally/Stern Electronics game I have at home sadly. Stars is at the old mans. All transistors check out ok, except the knocker which is a known issue.

Try removing the 1 amp fuse under the playfield & remove the ball from the outhole, start a game & manually press some playfield switches simulating playing a game & see if it crashes. Flipper coil can still lock on though with the fuse removed but would need the cab switch closed to complete the circuit which is odd as you said that it is locking on by itself when starting a game.

If the right flipper coil still locks on starting a game without pressing the cab button, unplug Solenoid driver board J2 then start a game & simulate playing a game & see if it crashes or functions normally.

Unplugging J2 will isolate the right flipper coil which is the red cab switch wire going to SDB J2 pin 1.

Appreciate you input Richard.

Did the above.

1st attempt, managed to work my way around the playfield, with nothing out of the ordinary happening.... then it possibly hit the K switch and crashed.

2nd attempt- Reset, start game -> instant crash
3rd attempt- Reset, start game -> instant crash
4th attempt- Reset, start game -> instant crash

Got me fooked :-/

No worries.
Yeah, it's a tricky one, the only other thing that comes to mind atm that is worth a try is is to do an audit clear for U8 5101 for all the bookkeping via the coin door remote S33 button. Clear/zero each entry from self test number 5 onward. Usually a corrupted 5101 affects displays, lamps & sound, but can still cause other erratic behaviour. Wouldn't hurt to try anyway.

Make sure U8 & U13 are a matching pair of 5101s in terms of brand/speed.

Coil locking on is a symptom not cause of problem I suspect.

It sounds like the MPU is crashing out.

I'd unplug the coil connectors at SDB to be safe while testing.

This all sounds like bad ROMs/sockets. The program may be jumping the rails. I think it was mentioned in the Stern thread to check voltages, connectors and sockets.

Thanks for your input. Voltages and connectors both look good. Sockets I haven't looked at... will looks today... Thanks