Why do a mini kit? Just do the whole thing.

Because most people don't need a full set of plastics, they need the commonly broken pieces. A mini kit serves this and is much cheaper.

What would a mini kit include? I feel like I have so many broken originals that some will get left out if a repro kit isn't full.

I'm disappointed about the darker blue more now seeing it installed on the pf in your pics. You can see where the stock blue plastics match the pf, but the repro blue is a new color added into the mix. I wonder what they were referencing to come up with such a darker Pantone color. On one hand I'm glad CPR made them, but as a big fan of this pin, it kind of sucks to have to settle for something less than perfect.

I'm not entirely up to speed on the CPR process, but it seems like there should be some kind of peer review process to ensure correct colors... or maybe do more crowd sourcing for some things like post a pic of the plastic being used for reference next to Pantone swatches noting the intended color. Those of us who own a machine and Pantone books could weigh in. Maybe post general pics of the set of plastics being referenced and see if owners notice issues compared to their set.

I would have gladly participated for free in order to get a perfect JP set.

Maybe the set CPR referenced truly was darker with thicker lines than what most of us have?

I think CPR just has a problem with blue. The blues are too dark in JP, LW3 and F14. That's just the ones that I know about.

And as far as the mini kit goes. If you have broken plastics then the rest probably don't look that good. When I restore a game, I want all new stuff. Why not have both options?

Has anyone that has purchased these from CPR sent them an email with your concerns?

If someone has the 2 back plastics they are willing to part with I would be interested in buying to show my mods.

Sucks about the new plastics, what a fail. I am surprised they let these out, they usually work from originals.

Thanks
Chris

Blue is actually the hardest of all colors to match when you're designing something on computer to be printed.

May look into making a full set available but no promises. CPR have got these.

Pete
Retro Refurbs

Isn't CPR doing silk screening, though, and I wouldn't think they are referencing the colors from the scans. The scans would be for reference when tracing layers into vectors, but having actual plastics in hand would be required to figure out actual colors compared to Pantone swatches. At which point the colors for the layers in the vector program don't mean anything. They're just used to create silk screens and then Pantone coded inks would be used for each layer when screen printing.

If CPR, or anyone else reproducing these, are referencing colors solely from scans without having actual plastics in hand, then that's a terrible process.

If anyone is designing repro plastics for direct printing, I would think they could use something like Pantone and figure out what from the printer matches the Pantone colors before committing to a run. Lock down whatever the colors need to be for the printer in question and then print them.

Having said all that, I'm not a professional in this field, so I'd be happy to be educated on why my assumptions aren't correct.

I guess I kind of assumed this is how it worked....Wonder if this is still possible or if they've ran what they're going to run and done.

Actually, I was hoping KevinCPR would comment either here or on his thread (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dataeast-jurassic-park-repro-plastics-done), but I guess no one has commented concerns there yet.
I went ahead and just sent an email now.

And seeing this from a possible competitor being objective, is a perfect reason I want to stay objective myself and not go saying they suck etc. I am not an artist, designer, or print setter so I don't see the many hours behind the scenes it takes to pull them off. If you're going to do an entire shop job, my opinion is they'll be fine/not noticed, but I am more leary of any mixing with stock side by side after seeing more comments.

Yeah, that's exactly where I'm coming from here. Somebody put a lot of hours in to making this JP set and while they may be slightly different from the original, they will look fine as a complete set.

For us to make a few pieces available which can drop in to the original set is only an idea at this stage. Nothing in production yet.

Oh happy day, I joined the club!

0325171552 (resized).jpg

Welcome. Still a firm believer that if this machine says B/W on it it's easily within the top 25. Even at its current slot it's truly underrated.

People crap on DE games. Sure, there are some clunkers but they will give you the best bang for your buck.

Technically my warranty card does...does that help?

20161121_065559118_iOS (resized).jpg

Hey guys I'm having trouble with my T-Rex. It's been working fine and suddenly out of nowhere it stopped moving Left/Right. It tries to do the T-Rex test upon startup but just makes the sound of the motor trying to work, but it doesn't move. I looked under the playfield and everything looks fine. I went into diagnostics and could only move the jaws on the T-Rex and move it Up/Down but not Left/Right. It just makes the motor sound like its trying to work. Does anyone have any ideas on what might be going on.

The more they crap on them the better I still have a few DE's i'm trying to find.
Should reduce demand and keep them affordable for new owners.

IMO JP, starwars, LAH, LW3 are some of the best bang for buck 90's dmd pins around.

I agree, I have SW, LAH, JP, G&R and Tommy, all great games that will never leave. I have to say though that Pinsound has transformed them.

I'm a fan of the game, but JP probably does get the least amount of play in my current lineup. For whatever reason it just doesn't have that same "just one more game" feeling, as games like TS or BSD. I do still love it in my collection though because it's more of a mode based game.

Well my DMD crapped out tonight. Turned on the machine to play a game and fixed a dead bulb in the coin eject housing. All of the sudden the DMD is dead with just weird messed up and faded lines. I suspected it was on its way out since I got the machine. Bummer. But now I'm not 100% sure. Its displaying a single line on the left side.

What seems weird is that all my CPU controlled lights are also out now. That wouldn't be connect to DMD right? Flashers, GI, and game play seems fine. Just not inert lamps. Did I blow something?

Checked my voltage coming into the display:

Driver: 5v line = 5.16v
DMD Power:

110v = 115
98v = 92.6
5v = 5
12v = 0 (Apparently Normal)
68v = 69.7

On the power supply the test connections for +12v = 11.8 || -12v = -14.3. Those seem within tolerances right? Still no insert lights... Still investigating...

This is what I'm looking at:
IMG_4978 (resized).JPG

Its a bummer ColorDMD doesn't make a JP LED display yet. They do for Apollo 13 though, sort of wondering if I could drop in my DMD from that game and order a LED display for Apollo. Anyone know if 128 x 32 Sega display is direct replacement on our JPs?

I can't answer your question, but I think using this as an opportunity to upgrade to color is a good idea.

If your DMD is dead and you need a new one... I'd say order a ColorDMD as the replacement. I think the DE Star Wars one will work just fine in a JP. Won't be colorized, but you can choose among the various mono color choices for now.

Does anyone have a spare ball guide that goes on the right side of the Raptor Pit? I have circled it in red. If so, please PM me.

JP-RP (resized).JPG

Yes, your Apollo 13 plasma display can be used in JP.

Broken tab? I ended up getting mine re-welded. But had a shoddy job done. Still works and looks fine. But I had to grind and polish their work down.

Yep. Broken tab.

Since your CPU controlled insert lamps are also out, the DMD can be related to this as well if it is a Babcock DMD. Both need the 18 volts which is supplied from one of the 2 bridge rectifiers (don't recall which one) that is mounted directly to the backbox at the bottom left just below the power supply. These 2 bridge rectifiers are protected by a fuse on each. It is possible that it is just a fuse. If you replace the bad 5 amp fuse and it still blows out, then you can measure your bridge rectifier for that fuse and likely you'll find it is shorted from one of the AC inputs to either the output + or - pin.

JP bridge rectifier.jpg (resized).pngJP BR (resized).jpg

Yeah if anyone has any extra blue slings plastics, I would be interested. The one I bought only came with the orange ones.

I almost had a blue set, but the vendor only had one blue sling plastic at the TPF (I think it was the left one).

What do I need to search for to find the correct connectors for what gets plugged into the boards in the backbox? Last year I had a heck of a time finding the right ones I needed, and still didn't get the right connectors.

I've got one on the sound board that needs reflowed, or replaced, and figured while I have that board off, I'll just replace them all. Both ends of the connector.

I thought I saw someone say something about swapping those connectors out with a different style?

While I appreciate CPR deeply, I don't understand why the blue's can't be color matched. I had the same frustration with the repro Space Shuttle plastics. Minor details I understand since it is being redrawn but the blue's are just so off and it isn't due to fade. Prob gonna pick up a set but I didn't really want to swap out everything.

Well that was it. Never checked those fuses back there and the bottom one was blown. Popped in the fuse from upper slot and lights and DMD are back. Great thanks! And of course these are the fues I don't have in my kit... As always.

Thanks again!

Question for the group. I have recently been noticing that I'm almost blinded with flashing lights when playing JP. Is that normal? Have you done anything to try to correct this?

Are you using LEDs or the normal incandescent bulbs?

Yes the GI blinks on off brightly together with a flasher when it is waiting for you to plunge the ball. DE Star Wars has even worse GI on/off flashing from what I have seen.

One solution is take some bulbs out the back box to make it a bit dimmer. Another is brighten up the room ambient light to lessen the effect.

Thank you for the reply. It's not just while waiting for the game. If I'm remembering correctly it's worst during multiball. It is adding to the challenge of the game, which could be a good thing; but it honestly would start to hurt my eyes after awhile. It's just too bright. I might have to do some testing to see if I could add some lighting strips to be always on. That way it wouldn't be going from complete dark to light (similar to having lights on in the room).

or install an LED OCD board. If I remember right it allows you to turn down the brightness on the flashers. I was also able to create some cool dimming effects.

OK I have got the bug to paint my pinball legs and other pieces on my JP. Looking around it seems that powder coating is fairly expensive, I got quoted 175.00 bucks to powder coat just 4 pinball legs. What other options do I have to paint the legs, side metal, back box hinge and so on?

Where did you go for that quote? I took my JP parts to a place that mainly did stair and patio railings. It is just standard gloss black so they just threw them in with a run. I don't remember exactly what I paid I just remember thinking, "that's it?" and handing them over. If you not doing a specific color I would look for some place more industrial.

car wrap

Vinyl Wrap thread. Legs are not too tricky, and take about $15 vinyl for 4 legs.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vinyl-wrap-lockdown-bar-rails-etc

The flashers under the area around the pop bumpers would blind me. Just switched them out for incandescent. Problem solved.

I contacted cpr and they said they were color matched off of a NOS set - I guess a well hidden from light set. Mine are going back just have to get around to shipping them.

They told me the same thing when I bought my Space Shuttle set. I googled a NOS set on google images for JP and they are light blue...not dark blue. I wasn't wrong about SS and you guys aren't wrong about this JP set. For some reason they aren't nailing the colors on some of these sets. I love CPR but I had a Bad Cats set that was off, Space Shuttle set that was off and now it seems JP suffers from this issue too. I wish they would run prototypes for collectors so we could help get it right and in turn help them get more sales!

Edited as a got a pretty quick response this time...maybe something happened to the email

But to post a little more detail in the response about the process and official response: (not the entire email)
"The entire set is meant to be replaced, with the originals going away and fogotten forever. Mix-n-match never usually happens with repro sets and originals together. That was never their point, I guess."

"The blue is matched to an NOS set, where Stu chose the Pantone match of every color on the NOS set, as seen in his studio under 4000 lumen 5500K light, alongside an official Pantone swatch book. Then those inks were mixed to the exact Pantone spot colors, and printed as seen. Gamma is also considered in the mix, to counter "washout" when illuminated. The final intended tone is that blue when BACKLIT. Which adds 20-30% Gamma into the color (bringing it up to tone)."

"We just ran 200 sets, and half are sold now. Only 2 people have spoken up thus far, and written in questions about the blue so far (out of 100 people). I can't change the 200 sets - and we aren't re-running We just made 200 sets "

"We'd hope if folks have grievances with not liking the blue - they'd clearly see it in the very detailed pictures, and not buy."

"I always simply say it - install and enjoy... forget the originals. Put them away."

"If that's no good, we always accept a full return for refund. Nobody is stuck with any CPR product they are not happy with."

I guess I can't disagree with this as we did question the blue before ordering, and still ordered. Looking back at his post, they look even bluer in the photo. I am curious what their intended backlight was, as incandescent vs led vs superbright led etc may come into play as well as would with regular plastics. I emailed again to ask about recommended backlighting and got his auto response that Kevin will be out till the 13th and not responding to email

So the bottom line is if you want a set, they are half sold out, and will not be making another run. If you have a set and are not happy, they will accept a return.

I'd like to see a comparison of their NOS set and their Repro set. Was considering buying a set, but will hold off in hopes that they correct the blues from what you all say it's like now.

I doubt we'll see that. I think they do a run and move on.

I don't know if prototypes would be feasible since that would require a full investment for screens equal to the final run. They'd want to address issues before having anything physical in place. Though there's got to be some way of getting input from big fans of a given pin who can act as representatives of the Pinside base of owners, ensuring that fans are happy and that CPR gets maximum sales from satisfied customers. That is assuming Pinside is a significant portion of their customer base, which we may not be.

Has anyone in this thread who has purchased the set been satisfied?

I may hold onto my set, but I'm still curious to see pics and reviews of a full install. I won't be able to work on mine for a long time.

I'm holding onto my set. I'll probably replace all when I do a full topside teardown in June. I may bump up the GI bulbs to try to push through the darker blue.

I updated my post #3194 before I saw these...official response is they will not be doing a correction or re-run.

Did my first board repair yesterday on JP. I finally solved some lights that were not working by replacing a transformer and resistor.

Feels good to know you got it working doesn't it?