Quoted from dudah:
I tried pulling and stretching best I could, but pulling too much on one side creates excess bunching on another. At the corner I tried cutting a 45 degree line to try to overlap it and it turned out... OK. Tried using the hair dryer but I feel that just ruined the texture and I feared I would stretch it too thin.
A couple things for next time. A hair dryer won't cut it, the stuff has memory and you can heat it out with a heat gun or a torch, sounds nuts but that's what it takes, and yes you can burn it right up.
The key is to heat and stretch well past the corners letting the material take the shape. It may not happen on the first try. You can also buy an adhesive usually available from the seller, which can help but means a bit more effort if you have to replace. I'd only use it on the edges and corner. You'll have to hold until cool. Really its a crutch if you see it pulling on the glue you didn't remove the memory in the plastic.
With some spare pieces heat and stretch and learn its limits if you can, it will get thinner and if you don't heat it enough, it will try to rebound back to its original shape as it cools. Because of this, I would instead recommend wrapping around to the back of the bar. This gives you a place to hold and some wiggle room to react if it start to shrink back, get the heat on it asap. It can be ugly and wrinkled in the back, you can trim it later fter its cool iand has a new memory of the new shape.
When the shop wrapped the wood grain on my wagon, watching them work an actual butane torch was scary since I had paid over $1200 bucks to print that particular pattern of woodgrain, but they knew what they were doing and shared a lot of tips. I later used that info to wrap trim pieces. The torch is used at a distance and in small figure 8 patterns or overlapping circles. It better than a heat gun because it can get the temp up faster, keeping the plastic in place. You'll see the plastic relax if your doing it right, start 6-8" away and move in as you swirl the torch or heat gun and when your at the right point it just smooths out like glass.
Use a fine needle on bubbles and do the same working from the edge to chase the air out the hole you prick in the top.
I made my own squeegees with some felt and rubber bondo mixers, you can buy them when you buy the material, but be careful and don't apply it directly to a freshly heated area, it can pull and deform the very soft material. Its for 5-10 sec later when it cooling and you want to press it down a bit. don't push too hard, you can texture or scratch.
I won't be able to get to my own project for a while, but when I do, I'll try to make a video and share.
You can practice on what you have, maybe even save it. I have a pair of those as-seen-on-tv ov-gloves, so you can grip the small ends, have some adhesive on hand. If you get to the point where the metals hot, let it sit for a while before going back. You just want to heat the plastic. Rapid cooling is a big part of memory formation, that won't happen if your metal is hot.
I'm not a pro, but did wrap a lot of complex trim on my station wagon using this method. Learned the hard lessons fast, but found it wasn't that hard once you got a feel for what the material can do.
EDIT - A heatgun should work for this, its not that complex of a piece just use lots of extra materials for the edges so you can really get a stretch around the corners. I would likely also work from the front pulling it over to the back near the glass where it the thinnest, then down around the corners. Corners last.
Cheap material is useless, you get what you pay for.