Quoted from mollyspub:While we're in this subject... Are the brass stand offs supposed to be loose on the resistors?
Yes, they are only there as spacers for the resistors to keep them away from the PCB.
Quoted from mollyspub:While we're in this subject... Are the brass stand offs supposed to be loose on the resistors?
Yes, they are only there as spacers for the resistors to keep them away from the PCB.
Quoted from Homepin:Yes, they are only there as spacers for the resistors to keep them away from the PCB.
Thanks! I purchased one of these for just in case.
Well it didn't take long for the LED dots to grow on me. They seem to really fit the game & give it the old school dmd feel. But with nice bright colours instead. Yes we put a U in there up here! Eh!
I'm wondering if someone can run a test for me on their game. Go to tests and then GI tests and run through all the GI string tests. I have one (I believe it's the last backbox string test connected to Q12) that doesn't dim for me. I just want to make sure mine has an issue before I pull the driver board out and change the triac.
So if the black housed receiver in the left pocket seems to be working, and in the right pocket I don't see a light in the cell phone test, that means my board is bad or the white opto is bad?
Also in tests, switch 82 always reads open and the opto board looks ok.
Quoted from ruddiger52:So if the black housed receiver in the left pocket seems to be working, and in the right pocket I don't see a light in the cell phone test, that means my board is bad or the white opto is bad?
Some phones won't glow with IR so test another opto to make sure you're getting a valid reading. If that's all good then check the voltage across the send opto (one lead on each side). Also check the inductor as noted in the article.
Quoted from terryb:Some phones won't glow with IR so test another opto to make sure you're getting a valid reading. If that's all good then check the voltage across the send opto (one lead on each side). Also check the inductor as noted in the article.
Sounds good. I will check all of the above first chance I get. Thank you!
Should the left ramp be backhandable consistently? It feels like it should be, but left flipper is too weak on my game.
I can hit that backhand shot only when the ball is moving and there's a bit of momentum already. I noticed I can't hit it from a dead catch tho. My (lightning) flippers are both working fine. Do you have lightning flips on yours rubberduck?!
Yeah, lightning flippers. I can very occasionally backhand the left hand from a standstill, but it's maybe 5% of the time ... you have to do it perfectly. Given the way the shot lines up, I feel like if I rebuilt the flippers and added a new coil, it would work ... the left flipper is slightly weak.
Quoted from rubberducks:Yeah, lightning flippers. I can very occasionally backhand the left hand from a standstill, but it's maybe 5% of the time ... you have to do it perfectly. Given the way the shot lines up, I feel like if I rebuilt the flippers and added a new coil, it would work ... the left flipper is slightly weak.
What kind of coils do you have? I have been wondering about this also. I have new flipper assemblies with FL-11541's, the second strongest coils. I have not been able to backhand that shot. Thinking about switching to the FL-11629's to make the left ramp easier to hit all around, but worried about punishing the rest of the playfield.
Quoted from ruddiger52:What kind of coils do you have? I have been wondering about this also. I have new flipper assemblies with FL-11541's, the second strongest coils. I have not been able to backhand that shot. Thinking about switching to the FL-11629's to make the left ramp easier to hit all around, but worried about punishing the rest of the playfield.
Orange wrapped FL-11541 on the left flipper (which looks old, as do flipper linkages), and a blue wrapped one on the right with scuffed print that I can't make out.
Quoted from rubberducks:Orange wrapped FL-11541 on the left flipper (which looks old, as do flipper linkages), and a blue wrapped one on the right with scuffed print that I can't make out.
The blue is most likely a FL-11629 the strongest coil. Ive read people will but a stronger coil on the right to make the left ramp easier to hit.
Quoted from aobrien5:IMO, the left ramp should /not/ be backhandable.
My flippers are pretty strong, and I can only backhand that shot occasionally, usually with some momentum already as Dee-Bow said. I agree with Aobrien though. I don't think the game was designed to be able to backhand that shot. That's a lot of distance and a bit of an incline up the ramp. And I'm not sure I would go orange coil on BSD. Ball already bounces around a lot and it's fast, probably risk breaking too many other things on the PF, including the plastic above the stand up bank directly in front of the flippers.
I've read that people have installed the ColorDMD LCD without removing the LND flashers. For those that have done this successfully, could you enlighten me? I've read some vague comments that its possible but I'm not seeing how during my attempt at an install. Then again, I also have the color changing mod which slightly gets in the way. If anyone has some pics I would really appreciate it.
Hi all , need some help with my BSD That has just developed a new problem , the machine trips and restarts when I am playing , the trigger to have it turn off/on is when I use both flippers at almost the same time , Had new coils ,flippers about 1 year ago and has never played so well , any thoughts would be appreciated .
Quoted from shedpinball:Hi all , need some help with my BSD That has just developed a new problem , the machine trips and restarts when I am playing , the trigger to have it turn off/on is when I use both flippers at almost the same time , Had new coils ,flippers about 1 year ago and has never played so well , any thoughts would be appreciated .
This is a common issue with all WMS machines of this era. It's caused by the 5V rail sagging below the reset threshold of the microprocessor.
I suggest you read the Pinwiki on "WMS resets" and follow the suggested procedures there.
You could try "wiggling" the connectors on the main driver board to the right of the bank of fuses, J101 & J102. These provide the power to the board from the mains transformer and do cause trouble. If the fault goes away you should replace the plugs AND the pins on the board as a set to future proof it.
One warning I would make is that some people will suggest that you replace the big electro caps on the driver board. DO NOT do this until you have exhausted all other suggestions as it is VERY easy to damage the board and cause more problems.
Quoted from shedpinball:Hi all , need some help with my BSD That has just developed a new problem , the machine trips and restarts when I am playing , the trigger to have it turn off/on is when I use both flippers at almost the same time , Had new coils ,flippers about 1 year ago and has never played so well , any thoughts would be appreciated .
So my Road Show (when I still had it) was doing the same thing. As mentioned earlier it's very common. Anyway I'm not much good at diagnosing electrical issues so I called my tech and he did some tests and confirmed it was my caps dropping voltage below 5v when both the flippers were pressed. Also as mentioned above do not just start replacing caps as it can lead to other problems. My tech is good and he diagnosed it and soldered them in under 20 min. Good luck!! BSD is the best!!!!
I have a bunch of pins in a row and this started happening when I had the heater on in the room. I simply moved the BSD to another outlet that was not sharing a heater and it did not happen anymore. I would try something simple like that first.
Quoted from shedpinball:Hi all , need some help with my BSD That has just developed a new problem , the machine trips and restarts when I am playing , the trigger to have it turn off/on is when I use both flippers at almost the same time , Had new coils ,flippers about 1 year ago and has never played so well , any thoughts would be appreciated .
Quoted from Glarrownage:I've read that people have installed the ColorDMD LCD without removing the LND flashers. For those that have done this successfully, could you enlighten me? I've read some vague comments that its possible but I'm not seeing how during my attempt at an install. Then again, I also have the color changing mod which slightly gets in the way. If anyone has some pics I would really appreciate it.
You can use the lower set of holes in the ColorDMD bracket to mount the screen along side the LND flashers.
The display will stick up further above the top of the speaker panel but will be hidden by the translite. Then use the VERTICAL ADJUST in the ColorDMD display menus to align the illuminated area of the screen with the speaker panel window.
Quoted from Glarrownage:I've read that people have installed the ColorDMD LCD without removing the LND flashers. For those that have done this successfully, could you enlighten me? I've read some vague comments that its possible but I'm not seeing how during my attempt at an install. Then again, I also have the color changing mod which slightly gets in the way. If anyone has some pics I would really appreciate it.
On my game I was able to mount the flasher lightboard just a bit lower and then everything fit. Definitely was glad not to lose the flasher function, or to make some other crazy modification to make it work.
Quoted from Glarrownage:I've read that people have installed the ColorDMD LCD without removing the LND flashers. For those that have done this successfully, could you enlighten me? I've read some vague comments that its possible but I'm not seeing how during my attempt at an install. Then again, I also have the color changing mod which slightly gets in the way. If anyone has some pics I would really appreciate it.
Pm sent
Quoted from shedpinball:Hi all , need some help with my BSD That has just developed a new problem , the machine trips and restarts when I am playing , the trigger to have it turn off/on is when I use both flippers at almost the same time , Had new coils ,flippers about 1 year ago and has never played so well , any thoughts would be appreciated .
Had the same problem...
Here's my post. The advice I got worked for me. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-rebuilt-flippers-and-all-hell-broke-loose-game-resets
I had the same issue of restarting when double flipping - I found one of the diodes on the flipper coils had broken off.
Quoted from Dmod:You can use the lower set of holes in the ColorDMD bracket to mount the screen along side the LND flashers.
The display will stick up further above the top of the speaker panel but will be hidden by the translite. Then use the VERTICAL ADJUST in the ColorDMD display menus to align the illuminated area of the screen with the speaker panel window.
Quoted from MMP:On my game I was able to mount the flasher lightboard just a bit lower and then everything fit. Definitely was glad not to lose the flasher function, or to make some other crazy modification to make it work.
Quoted from mollyspub:Pm sent
Thanks guys! I had to mount it at a slight angle and get a little bit of light bleed from the flashers but i'll work on that. The animations are great!
Almost time for the new ramps....
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-new-ramps
Make sure you get in on this. PjM has hinted this will be a one and done batch. DO NOT miss out on this as, well, no one else seems to be taking the initiative to get this done.....even though they were "on the verge of being made" 3 years ago....
I have a BSD that the DMD Screen is displayed in German. I change the settings to English and free play but every time I turn the game off it reverts back to German and losses the free play setting. The game came with no batteries and the battery holder does not come with markings on which side is positive or negative. I tried with all three batteries with positive being up but that didnt work. I also tried with the two end batteries with positive up and then middle with negative up and that didnt work either.
Any help on how to keep the game to power up with english?
Thanks
Quoted from marksf123:Any help on how to keep the game to power up with english?
Change the jumpers on the board so English is the default language.
http://www.flippers.be/basics/101_wpc_country_settings.html
Not a great photo, but here's the orientation of the batteries. Make sure the wiring to the board is the same since the battery orientation relates to the wiring.
Quoted from marksf123:I have a BSD that the DMD Screen is displayed in German. I change the settings to English and free play but every time I turn the game off it reverts back to German and losses the free play setting. The game came with no batteries and the battery holder does not come with markings on which side is positive or negative. I tried with all three batteries with positive being up but that didnt work. I also tried with the two end batteries with positive up and then middle with negative up and that didnt work either.
Any help on how to keep the game to power up with english?
Thanks
All jumpers REMOVED also defaults to English.
Quoted from marksf123:I have a BSD that the DMD Screen is displayed in German. I change the settings to English and free play but every time I turn the game off it reverts back to German and losses the free play setting.
Quoted from terryb:Change the jumpers on the board so English is the default language.
So based on that article, i have to solder a wire to W18 and I don't need a resistor.
Quoted from terryb:Not a great photo, but here's the orientation of the batteries. Make sure the wiring to the board is the same since the battery orientation relates to the wiring.
I dont think the picture loaded...
Thanks
As hompin said you can just remove the jumpers (w15-18) and use USA2.
Sorry, here's a link to the picture.
Looking to send my plastics to modfather... How does the cemetery come off the ramp? Do I need to remove the ramp to gain access from underneath?
Quoted from mollyspub:Looking to send my plastics to modfather... How does the cemetery come off the ramp? Do I need to remove the ramp to gain access from underneath?
Yes.
Quoted from jkashani:Love just died. My Dracula is listed on the market.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/48492
It's an abusive relationship.
does anyone have a link to a PDF version of the BSD manual? Could also email to [email protected] if you have one in PDF format. Thanks guys!! Craig
Quoted from Cserold:does anyone have a link to a PDF version of the BSD manual? Could also email to [email protected] if you have one in PDF format. Thanks guys!! Craig
Always check IPDB, they have many manuals for games. They have the link towards the middle of the page under documantation.
http://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=bram&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick
Looking to purchase this coil bracket for BSD. Anyone have this part or know where it can be bought?
Quoted from Cserold:Looking to purchase this coil bracket for BSD. Anyone have this part or know where it can be bought?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16143
Check Pinball Spare Parts Australia
735 million! Not enough to get my initials up but i feel like the ass kickings aren't as frequent lately!
Quoted from Dee-Bow:735 million! Not enough to get my initials up but i feel like the ass kickings aren't as frequent lately!
That's a decent score for anybody on BSD. I set the high score on mine a few months ago at 1.3 bill after resetting last year, and haven't come close in months. I'm a sucker for abuse. That's why I love BSD. Just when I think I'm a decent player I jump on this and it beats the shit out of me.
Hey all, been a member for awhile but the pin was torn apart for most of this time. Bought BSD from a friend had a minty PF and full LED. I played it for a few weeks, loving it and knew that I needed to rip it apart and shine up the rest of it! I guess that I can't say 'bring it back to life'...
No disrespect to those who have gone with straight red but it just didn't do it for me. After spending a month or so looking around I found what I think is a great fit (no it's not the same as WOZ RR75th) and then decided to take the trek...
I've compiled a series of pictures to provide a sense of the tear down and rebuild. It's quite difficult to have the camera capture what you actually see so that could explain why the other red works for some. Have a look and see what you think.
https://1drv.ms/f/s!An-v_bkyKrvlhjwVYJ8zr14R7now (pics only link should be ok from what I see in the rules, if not I will immediately remove)
I almost forgot, after having installed a pinsound in my IJ, I decided to keep the RED display on BSD (I love the original display but may fall for the colorDMD if I see it in person) and spend the money instead on a pinsound for it. I am 80+ hours into a resampling of audio from the movie and it's worth every minute. The game is over the top!
IMG_20161026_017 (resized).jpg
IMG_20161026_018 (resized).jpg
IMG_20161026_019 (resized).jpg
IMG_20161228_025 (resized).jpg
IMG_20161228_027 (resized).jpg
IMG_20170202_060 (resized).jpg
IMG_20170102_056 (resized).jpg
IMG_20170202_061 (resized).jpg
IMG_20170213_074 (resized).jpg
IMG_20170213_075 (resized).jpg
IMG_20170214_081 (resized).jpg
IMG_20170215_084 (resized).jpg
IMG_20170217_089 (resized).jpg
IMG_20170222_091 (resized).jpg
IMG_20170222_091b (resized).jpg
IMG_20170224_091c (resized).jpg
IMG_20170225_092 (resized).jpg
IMG_20170304_093 (resized).jpg
Quoted from dnaman:Hey all, been a member for awhile but the pin was torn apart for most of this time. Bought BSD from a friend had a minty PF and full LED. I played it for a few weeks, loving it and knew that I needed to rip it apart and shine up the rest of it! I guess that I can't say 'bring it back to life'...
No disrespect to those who have gone with straight red but it just didn't do it for me. After spending a month or so looking around I found what I think is a great fit (no it's not the same as WOZ RR75th) and then decided to take the trek...
I've compiled a series of pictures to provide a sense of the tear down and rebuild.
Awesome job on the resto and customization!! That thing looks great, and you definitely put a lot of effort into that one. That is always appreciated. I went with a custom but more "standard" red myself only because it seemed to pop and was more true to the colors on the cabinet. The blood red you used definitely fits, and looks fantastic.
Quoted from Colsond3:I went with a custom but more "standard" red myself only because it seemed to pop and was more true to the colors on the cabinet.
Thanks! You are right regarding the cab art red, I spent a ton of time thinking about that specifically. The choice was easier after ordering some artwork. The red is actually deeper on the art that I ordered and really fits.
I had the same struggle with the blade art that bought. The online pics show a kind of purple that doesn't appear to match yet once installed I have been very pleased with them.
Quoted from dnaman:Hey all, been a member for awhile but the pin was torn apart for most of this time. Bought BSD from a friend had a minty PF and full LED. I played it for a few weeks, loving it and knew that I needed to rip it apart and shine up the rest of it! I guess that I can't say 'bring it back to life'...
No disrespect to those who have gone with straight red but it just didn't do it for me. After spending a month or so looking around I found what I think is a great fit (no it's not the same as WOZ RR75th) and then decided to take the trek...
I've compiled a series of pictures to provide a sense of the tear down and rebuild. It's quite difficult to have the camera capture what you actually see so that could explain why the other red works for some. Have a look and see what you think.
https://1drv.ms/f/s!An-v_bkyKrvlhjwVYJ8zr14R7now (pics only link should be ok from what I see in the rules, if not I will immediately remove)
I almost forgot, after having installed a pinsound in my IJ, I decided to keep the RED display on BSD (I love the original display but may fall for the colorDMD if I see it in person) and spend the money instead on a pinsound for it. I am 80+ hours into a resampling of audio from the movie and it's worth every minute. The game is over the top!
Looks awesome. I like that red a lot better than the brighter reds you see.
Quoted from dnaman:Thanks! You are right regarding the cab art red, I spent a ton of time thinking about that specifically. The choice was easier after ordering some artwork. The red is actually deeper on the art that I ordered and really fits.
I had the same struggle with the blade art that bought. The online pics show a kind of purple that doesn't appear to match yet once installed I have been very pleased with them.
Don't tell the speakers you stole there panels to make a GIANT key fob
Quoted from Pinballerchef:Don't tell the speakers you stole there panels to make a GIANT key fob
Haha! I was actually looking for something larger at one point...
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bram-stokers-dracula-clubmembers-only/page/91 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.