(Topic ID: 296926)

Williams High Speed

By Otatts

12 days ago


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  • 27 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by grantopia
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HighSpeedQ25 (resized).png
HighSpeedCoils (resized).png
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B2E4CB7A-B403-4EC7-A236-ACE71501B38E (resized).jpeg

#1 12 days ago

Hi everyone. This is my first time posting but I’ve been lurking on the forum reading up on problem solving and I have to say this is a great forum for info and advice, so thank you to all for your wisdom as it’s helped me a lot.

We have a family heirloom in the shape of an original HIGH SPEED Williams pinball. It’s been in our family now for at least 30 years however it’s been sitting dormant for at least 10. It had an issue and was never resolved and sat in the corner since.
My daughter (3) has just shown an interest in it so I thought I’d try getting it going!

Through this forum is found the battery case was fault (dirty) and have rectified that issue and everything seems to be working fine except when I hit start it just sets off the bumpers.
After cleaning the battery case I put it in free play mode to get it out of the ‘adjust failure’ mode and it seemed to fix it except for this start button/solenoid issue.
I just turned free play off but it’s still the same. Am I stuck in a test setting??

Any ideas?

Cheers Owen

Photo is just for photos sake

B2E4CB7A-B403-4EC7-A236-ACE71501B38E (resized).jpeg
#2 12 days ago
Quoted from Otatts:

when I hit start it just sets off the bumpers.

All of them or just one?

Any evidence of alkaline leakage near the battery holder?

#3 12 days ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

All of them or just one?
Any evidence of alkaline leakage near the battery holder?

The middle battery had some corrosion on the negative terminal. I hit it with some sand paper to clean up the terminal and I now have even readings on the meter for all 3 (new) batteries.

Multiple solenoids fire when hitting the start button. Seems like it’s all the kickback solenoids (ramps top and bottom and the left side kickback) it fires them all in sequence twice then the start button does nothing.
This is the battery in question. The others were fine

image (resized).jpg
#4 12 days ago

The adjust failure error you were getting is because the batteries were dead or there was an issue with the batteries and the game was losing the settings as a result.

If the coils are firing when you hit start (not when you immediately turn on the game) then it's probably the game searching for the balls as it does not detect all of them in the trough, so it thinks some might be stuck in the game and is trying to pop them loose. The game will also not start if it doesn't recognize the balls are there.

If the game is on free play, make sure you have all 3 balls in the game. If you do, you will need to put the game in switch test to make sure the switches in the trough are recognizing the balls.

#5 12 days ago

Oh!! I think there’s only one ball in there. I’ll give it a try with the others

Thanks grantopia !

#6 12 days ago

Balls rust so probably time for new ones. I like ballbaron.com but there are probably local suppliers.

#7 12 days ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

Balls rust so probably time for new ones. I like ballbaron.com but there are probably local suppliers.

Yeah it turns out the other balls went missing and the one left is starting to rust a little so I was going to get a new set. I don’t want it tearing up the play field

There’s a pinball supplier not far from my house

#8 12 days ago
Quoted from Otatts:

Oh!! I think there’s only one ball in there. I’ll give it a try with the others
Thanks grantopia !

Nice! Get all 3 loaded up and then see what happens! Hopefully you will be good to go!

#9 10 days ago

So I put 3 new balls in and it works!!

Thanks grantopia!
I still have a couple bits and bobs to fix but the main one is the solenoid that kicks the ball to the plunger shoot isn’t operating.

I tested it with a multimeter and it seems to read the same as the other solenoids so maybe a switch? A fuse?

Any ideas?

Photo: this guy

Cheers O

image (resized).jpg
#10 10 days ago
Quoted from Otatts:

So I put 3 new balls in and it works!!
Thanks grantopia!
I still have a couple bits and bobs to fix but the main one is the solenoid that kicks the ball to the plunger shoot isn’t operating.
I tested it with a multimeter and it seems to read the same as the other solenoids so maybe a switch? A fuse?
Any ideas?
Photo: this guy
Cheers O
[quoted image]

Test the red wire on the coil for DC voltage.

#11 10 days ago

Awesome news! That coil in the picture looks pretty suspect...lots of things sticking out of it, and it's hard to tell in your picture but it looks like one of the windings could be grounding out to the bracket. What did you test with the multimeter? There are a few things to check...voltage as GRUMPY mentioned, ohms across the coil lugs, you can ground the coil to see if it fires and also the transistor on the board.

What is your experience and comfort level with working on games? That will help with how much guidance we need to provide.

#12 9 days ago

I would say extreme novice at best grantopia but I am enthusiastic. All advice is taken then googled on how to do it. I got 3 or .3 ohms resistance on all coils I tested.
Can you cross the terminals to fire the solenoid?
I tried that with the switch but nothing happened.

I’ve noticed the ‘hype’ music for multi ball doesn’t turn off once the ball is out of play so I’m guessing there’s a faulty switch at work here?

#13 9 days ago

0.3 ohms is too low and indicates a bad coil. There is a chart here that lists many coils and their expected resistance values: https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html

#14 9 days ago

YeOldPinPlayer thanks for that.
I had a look at the chart. Found the coil and retested it making sure I had good contact and it’s measuring 4.3 ohms which is pretty bang on for the 23-800 coil

If I short the terminals will it fire the coil or am I going to do damage doing that?

Coil seems ok. Starting to think it’s. A switch

#15 9 days ago

So I looked up how to test switches and it said the switch should read 0 resistance while activated and the switch next to that coil did.
However the one next to it for the second ball in line did not! It was kind of all over the place. Tested them both again and got the same readings. So I’ll have to pull it out and go to the electrical store once this round of Covid lockdowns are over

Hopefully this does it

#16 9 days ago

Yes, do not short the lugs on the coil, that will damage the coil and potentially the game.

Do you have the manual for the game? The game is in free play, and you are just hitting start to start a game, right?

Does the game music begin and the game looks like it will begin to score (showing you are on ball one, etc.)? If the game is starting, I would think all 3 switches in the trough are working fine. If you have the manual, look at how to put the game in test mode. You can cycle through the tests and get to the coil test and it will fire all the coils in order. Run that and see what happens. There is also a switch test and you should see all 3 switches active. If you don't have the manual, just google up high speed pinball manual, and you should find a IPDB link that will have a free download of the manual in PDF form,

Run those two tests first and see if the coil fires in test and report back.

#17 9 days ago

Thanks grantopia ill have a look tomorrow.
Pretty sure we don’t have the manual so I’ll look it up online

Thanks for your advice

#18 9 days ago
Quoted from Otatts:

Pretty sure we don’t have the manual so I’ll look it up online

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1176
Can download one from there.

I think it's number 02 in the test. If it doesn't work in the test you could have a failed transistor Q25.

HighSpeedCoils (resized).png
#19 8 days ago

Wow that’s awesome YeOldPinPlayer ! Thank you! I’ll print that out so I have a hard copy

Made a stainless steel bracket for the traffic lights at the bottom of the ramp as they were sagging and the ball was hitting it some times and stopping it going up the ramp. Same with the clear plastic cover over the ramp. Got more clearance now and had a game and got back into the groove a little. Feeling more like the pinball of old now!
Still a few more little glitches to fix but we’re getting there

#20 7 days ago

Ok so I ran the solenoid test and number 2 doesn’t fire.

YeOldPinPlayer is the transistor the little guy between the terminals of the solenoid?

#21 7 days ago

That would be a generic diode.
The Q25 driver transistor should be in the head on the lower left of the MPU -- between plugs 1J11 and 1J12.
-mof

#22 7 days ago
Quoted from Otatts:

is the transistor the little guy between the terminals of the solenoid?

No, that's a diode. As mof mentioned, Q25 will be on your main board as shown on page 51 in the manual.
Bad transistor isn't the only possibility though. Do you have power at the coil lugs? Have you checked the fuses? (other coils would also be not working if a fuse were burnt out.)

If you need more details on checking anything please ask. We all started somewhere.

If you disconnect anything on the board take lots of pictures and label stuff so you can get it back in the right spot.
HighSpeedQ25 (resized).png

#23 7 days ago

Ah right O. I’ll take a look. Any way to test the transistor?

All the other solenoids seem to be working it’s just that one that’s not playing fair

Thanks YeOldPinPlayer mof

#24 7 days ago

Yep, as mentioned above you can definitely test the transistor, but rule out a few things first. I would make sure as mentioned you have voltage at the coil. Then (game off) measure the ohms across the lugs, and then compare to another coil that is the same part number, such as coil 3. Make sure all the wiring is soldered on the coil and the diode is attached and doesn't look broken. After that we can move into checking the wiring and grounding out the coil and transistor to isolate the issue. This is a pretty common issue so we will get you going again.

#25 3 days ago

grantopia how do you test voltage to the coil? I’ve already done an ohm resistance check and the coil meets spec measurements as outlined in the manual

Sorry for the questions about the obvious but electronic problem solving is new to me

Cheers O

#26 3 days ago

DMM set to DC volts. Black lead stuck under the ground braid. Turn on power to pin and use red lead to test the coil lugs. Power on (28-34 volts) both lugs means good good power and a good coil. Power on one lug means good power and a bad coil. No power on neither lug means no power, look for a broken wire connection on the red wires.

#27 2 days ago
Quoted from Otatts:

grantopia how do you test voltage to the coil? I’ve already done an ohm resistance check and the coil meets spec measurements as outlined in the manual
Sorry for the questions about the obvious but electronic problem solving is new to me
Cheers O

GRUMPY beat me to it! And no worries - we all started somewhere, it will come together.

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