(Topic ID: 349874)

Williams Blackout stuck Coil/solenoid

By springer76

3 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 6 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by PINTEC
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 3 months ago

Hello all, Wondering where to start? THe kids were playing the Blackout while I was in the other room and yelling pursued about smoke. I shut off and unplugged the machine. I have since replaced the kickout coil and inspected the switches but when I power on the machine the coil locks on. Can anyone help me diagnose this problem? Thanks in advance. I havent taken the switches apart but they are not in contact with anything and are open. No serious damage as far as I can see. Where should I start?

#3 3 months ago

Hi! You have probably the related transistor shorted on the driver board. Do you mean the kickout eject hole, correct?

Blackout #sol (resized).PNGBlackout #sol (resized).PNG
#4 3 months ago

By kickout coil do you mean the ball release under the apron or the eject hole?

The ball release transistor is Q15 and the eject hole is Q25 on the driver board lower left corner.

With the machine off, assuming you have a multi meter, set it continuity or lowest resistance and touch one probe to any Ground point and the other to the metal tab on the transistor and listen for the sound of the meter or look for close to zero ohms resistance.

If you hear a sound or see zero ohms resistance, then the transistor is bad and needs replacing.

#5 3 months ago

Rikoshay Thank you for the reply. Now that you sent that diagram, it is the right kicker. What is a good reeding to see on the multimeter?

#6 3 months ago

Check Right kicker drive 21 Q10 on the driverboard

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