(Topic ID: 70223)

What grade(s) of stainless steel are used in a game?

By SteveP3

10 years ago


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    #1 10 years ago

    Does anyone know what grades of stainless steel are used in pinball machines? I'm thinking of things like siderails, ramps, ball guides, etc. I realize different types may be used in different areas; but does anyone have any real knowledge of this they can share?

    Thanks!

    #2 10 years ago

    bumpity bump!

    #3 10 years ago

    Usually if a magnet sticks the grade is cheaper, but if it's in a house and you polish it up nice it should last forever.

    #4 10 years ago

    Thanks, but I am hoping someone might know the actual grades / types used. As an example : type 201, 304 (or 18/8), etc

    #5 10 years ago

    Considering the rust/corrosion that I see on the parts on most pinball games I would say very little is actually stainless. I think a large portion of the parts that look like stainless are mild steel plated in chrome/nickel. I can always spot a well used pin when the lock down bar has the plating missing by the flipper buttons and it is starting to show some rust.

    Stainless is a bitch to work with compared to mild steel. It is harder on tools and a lot more expensive. Pinball games just don't need that level of fancy material. They were not made last that long and the environment they are in is very gentle relatively speaking (inside and dry, hopefully)

    #6 10 years ago

    Interesting! Keep it coming, am open to hearing various inputs regarding this. It's just a personal curiosity.

    #7 10 years ago
    Quoted from mg81:

    Stainless is a bitch to work with compared to mild steel. It is harder on tools and a lot more expensive. Pinball games just don't need that level of fancy material.

    Steve Ritchie would disagree. On a number of levels.

    Is that you Gary?

    #8 10 years ago

    If only Steve Ritchie would post on here and tell me!

    #9 10 years ago

    I would hazard a guess at an austinetic stainless like 304 or 316, but could easily be something in the 200 series, which I personally have never used buit would serve the purpose as well I believe. I would guess most of it is likely cold worked or spring tempered to bring its hardness and strength up a bit... I havent's seen much deformation on inlane returns like in the old days and I don't THINK most of it is magnetic so it's likely austinetic with a temper, and not cold worked.

    Anyway thats what I intend to try to use as my first shot at lane guides, wireforms, ball guides, etc.

    #10 10 years ago

    I'd go with 304 stainless steel (A2 in the UK). 304L if you plan to weld it.

    316 is typically used in a salt water/swimming pool environment so is a bit overkill.

    Phisrace is right, stainless is definitely a bitch to work. I particulary enjoyed the fact that, with the larger diameter fasteners, you could be threading a nut down a bolt without any load on it, and the nut would suddenly cold weld to the bolt. How I laughed as I took out the hacksaw

    Andy

    #11 10 years ago

    I would stay away from stainless fasteners wherever possible if you are using stainless components unless you can avoid pressure and contact between the fastener and the part

    #12 10 years ago
    Quoted from mg81:

    Considering the rust/corrosion that I see on the parts on most pinball games I would say very little is actually stainless. I think a large portion of the parts that look like stainless are mild steel plated in chrome/nickel.

    I don't know anything about metals so can't advise but looking at my metals, of which at least one of everything had some mild rust spots/pitting, there was definitely plating on it all.
    (Edit: except maybe the wireforms...memory escapes me)

    Could be because it's a Gottlieb sys3 though

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