Quoted from rkahr:But the "won't fix what is fixable" statement is incorrect - in fact it does fix what is otherwise not addressed in the reset literature...
IF....if if if if if, the 12V circuit is solid too.
See most people believe "well, the 5V circuit is given excess voltage from the 12V circuit, so my game is now 100% bulletproof with this daughter board installed....", and that is not true. People need to understand if that 12V circuit is weak, it WILL STILL RESET even with a daughterboard in it. Ask me how I know.
So yes, the daughterboard is a solid "crutch" to use if the 12V circuit is stout and sound.
Rob, I want to be very clear: I absolutely respect your contribution to the community. Heck, I bought 3 or 4 of your boards (2 to use, 2 for backups) at one point until my TAF went all sorts of crazy with the daughterboard installed, and that was due (in part) to the 12V circuit being weak. That was the moment I realized "All right, from here on out, we fix the root of the problem."
I know I constantly preach the "it's not a fix" angle, and it is not to attack you or your work (I'm sure you know that, for the sake of transparency, I am stating it). I preach it so people understand they did not throw in a magic bullet and everything will be all better now forever and ever.
People that tell me "Well, I've had it in my game for X years and everything is hunky dory..." well, that's great - how often do you play - 4 times a year? 4 times a month? A week? A day? How long do you play? 1 game? 3 games? 7 games? 2-3 hours? 5 hours?
A statement like that is not quantitative; it is subjective and ambiguous at best. You need to fix the problem - especially if you are ever going to sell the game. If I buy a game and I see that, I automatically ask for a discount because know I have to solve someone else's problem - and that's a fact - I'm buying someone else's problem.
OP, let us know how it goes once you've re-pinned the potential problem connectors!