(Topic ID: 109931)

The SprayMax 2K Auto Clear in a Can Club!

By Curbfeeler

9 years ago


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#536 6 years ago

How far are you guys going de-populating the bottom of the playfield with these? Thinking about trying my hand at a a stern stars playfield but wasn't sure if I could cap off the GI sockets and put some kind of protection over the playfield holes (drop targets, flippers, slingshots) without totally removing the bottom mechs as it'd be a pain to do it halfway either de-soldering the big mechs or completely removing anything attached to the harness. If the mechs and holes can be protected without removing hardware, how are you doing it?

Also, is there a repository anywhere for playfield scans or vector files for printing waterslides?

1 week later
#567 6 years ago

Great pics! What color did you use for the saucer wood tone?

4 months later
#633 5 years ago

Not a lot of easy airbrush parts on that playfield! You planning on doing a lot of decals, some meticulous frisket work, or just clearing over the rough stuff?

#648 5 years ago

Will an airbrushed createx touch up stick without clear or do you need to do the whole thing at once?

#655 5 years ago

What's going on with your keylines in that last photo?

2 weeks later
#690 5 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

The clear's surface tension walls-up around holes and edges.
That's why you sand between coats; to keep the playfield flat.
It's totally normal:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/20#post-1795975

Nope, a light 120 grit sanding (on a large sanding pad), will quickly knock down those hills around openings.
Follow with 220, 400, 800, 1000 - each smaller grit requires less strokes than the one before it.

I think he's referring to the wavy-ness of the light that's hitting the playfield in flat areas. Is that normal?

#692 5 years ago

OH NO!!! Dude that sucks is it bad?

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