(Topic ID: 52959)

Swords of Fury: Titan Tunnel shot - ball gets stuck Help!

By Nemesis

10 years ago


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  • 42 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 years ago by snyper2099
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 10 years ago

So I got my Power supply and mpu repaired finally and got my game all up and running but there is an annoying issue with the Titan Tunnel shot.

If you shoot up the Tunnel, the ball gets stuck in the up kicker at the end of the tunnel and does not route itself into the ball save (3 for multiball). With the glass off I can hear the relay going nuts on the driver board (I think its the driver board) because the ball is stuck in there. I am pretty sure the coil tested out ok, what should be the tech path to resolve this? Consequently, if I take 2 more balls by hand and toss em up the ally they route properly to the ball save area and begin multiball minus the ball that is stuck in the kicker. The game recognizes I shot the ball 3 times up there but cant start/release the balls for the multi mode. :/ Also I got a dead upper mid pf flipper, I havent checked the capacitor yet.

Aaaaaaaany help would be appreciated. I have worked on gottlieb system 3 and pin2k but this is my first system11 and although it looks like the most simple pin I have owned from underneath, I am utterly fucking clueless!

THANKS

#2 10 years ago

Took out the switch and the coil for tests, will report results when I get home.

Tempered glass for the translite shattered on me last night. I don't know if it was 1. Age of the glass 2. Humidity we've had lately 3. Hot weather 4. Bad luck

#3 10 years ago

The game never recognizes the first ball is shot into the tunnel... If both switched are closed in the lock assembly, the game starts multi-ball regardless of whether or not a ball is in the end of tunnel saucer.

There is no "up kicker" in SOF. What you meant to say was "kickout hole/saucer shot at the end of the tunnel lane".

You certainly have a problem with the switch OR coil that is closed/fired when the ball enters the tunnel saucer. My guess is a wire fell off the switch for that saucer.

#4 10 years ago

yea the kick out hole! (thank you for the correction) - the wires were on the switch terminals but the solder could have been cracked or cold, it was a sloppy ass job - I took a laser knife and just cut the wires off. I cant for the life of my understand why they didn't quick disconnect terminal everything. So lazy!!!!!!!!!!!! /barrel-roll

I recall checking the coil prior to getting the mpu and psu fixed and thought it was fine, so it MAY be the switch on the saucer, thank you. I will check that asap to see if its gunked up or just not registering anymore and report back.

#5 10 years ago

Hmmm so coil reads the 4 ohms like it should be getting and the switch is reading good on both open and close sooooooooooooooooooooo either there is/was an error in the wiring or there is a problem somewhere else... I will wire it all back and and try to trace beyond those components.

#6 10 years ago

I need to print out the manual and start circling heh ;/

#7 10 years ago

You need to go in to coil test and see if that coil fires. You also need to go in to the switch test and see if the switch registers when activated. Once you get it hooked back up of course. Post results here...

You are sort of approaching it all wrong. Last thing you ever want to do is remove stuff to test it or replace stuff at all.

#8 10 years ago

Well, I am a baddie - I admitted it I see what you mean though. I printed out the user manual at work so I can label shit and where it is on schematics and part numbers. I will wire it back up and run the tests and report.

#9 10 years ago

HOUSTON - WE HAVE A PROBLEM

I circled everything through out the manual and looked at all the schematics and went to the area on the aux board that pertained to that coil. I found J6 alright... look at the pic.

Now what? :>/

#10 10 years ago

oops here is the pic

IMG_0987.JPGIMG_0987.JPG

#11 10 years ago

I had something similar on mine. I'd get on pinballlife and order a new idc connector, male and female, and one of the idc tools. Having the tool is worth the cost.

#12 10 years ago

I took out the aux power board to check the transistor and resistor to make sure htey didnt malfunction and send 50v to that pin connector lol.

#13 10 years ago

In the words of Dan Forden, TOASTY!

#14 10 years ago

Ok so I de-soldered and tested the transistor, diode and resistor that related to the two fried pins and my poor kickout coil. They all tested good - yay... but then I found F1 and F4 fuses were dead... 2amp 250v slow blow fuses right? Also where do I look to buy a replacement connector?

#15 10 years ago

That burnt connector has nothing to do with your saucer not working problem, it is the general illumination connector.

#16 10 years ago

maybe the failed fuses preventing the coil to fire?

#17 10 years ago

when you shoot the tunnel, you can't go to lock. Only place the ball can go is to the mini playfield. Sometimes a slow shot will get stuck on the ridge where the ramp and the mini playfield screw together under that big plastic up there. Make sure your game is leveled correctly so it can go left if it makes it to that merger. If you want things a little smoother, put a piece of mylar over the transition.

#18 10 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

when you shoot the tunnel, you can't go to lock. Only place the ball can go is to the mini playfield. Sometimes a slow shot will get stuck on the ridge where the ramp and the mini playfield screw together under that big plastic up there. Make sure your game is leveled correctly so it can go left if it makes it to that merger. If you want things a little smoother, put a piece of mylar over the transition.

Lets make sure we are talking about the same shot. I am talking about the shot that is directly bottom left of the mini pf that you typically make with the right flipper. The ball goes in that far left bank shot against the left pf wall and gets stuck deep under the mini pf. I can hear the relay firing when the ball gets stuck in there but no coil action. Its impossible to get the ball out unless I lift the pf out of the cab and hold it down angled mid air and have someone manually move that coil arm to kick the ball up and out.

Would two dead fuses on the aux power board which delegates power to many of the coils on this game prevent the coil from firing? The coil and switch both test working. All electrical components relevant to that coil removed all tested out fine. Discovered the sneaky dead fuses after going through all the other crap.

Thanks!

#19 10 years ago

Ohhh, the tunnel is the shot on the right when it says to shoot the tunnel. Left side is just the lock. Yes a fuse could kill this, make sure the coil lugs are tight, make sure the diode is attached strong, and make sure it's not binding up against the saucer plate.

#20 10 years ago

Fuse F1 on the Aux Power Board is a 2 1/2A 250V, and Fuse F4 is 2A 250V. I'm not 100% positive, because I don't have access to my game or manual (except the PDF) but F4 may be part of your problem. But, if I'm looking at this right, the fuse is in line for multiple coils, so I would work my way through the coils and driver circuits and check everything out. Better safe than sorry with a handful of blown fuses.

#21 10 years ago

make sure your daisy chain isn't broken. Look at other coils around that kickout that share the same wire colors. make sure one isn't broken off.

#22 10 years ago

thanks fellas.

#23 10 years ago

I can check the manual and use the wiring matrix to make sure about the daisy chain... but if my memory serves me correctly, the rest of the game operates just fine. It had a dead MPU, Power Supply and other shit BEFORE, so maybe that is what caused the fuses to blow? the GI connector is probably just cause sys11 derp. I have a reconditioned MPU and PSU now though btw.

#24 10 years ago

Alrighty, I inspected the wiring matrix on all the coils and switches looking for possible shorts and did not find any. Put back in the aux power board with the new fuses and viola! top left kicker spat the stuck ball out. Hooray right?! Well...... like a dirty whore hyrdra, fixed one problem and spawned others...

Now the ball isnt making it out of the shooter lane (didnt have that issue before...) so I manualy by hand run it up, ok fine - cool. But then, sometimes the right fliper coil randomly activates on its own, then the game THINKS the ball was lost down the middle and the game over - music stops but ball is still in play...then a Tilt.

weird issue. gotta fuck with this whore some moar I guess :/

#25 10 years ago

seems like you have a switch matrix issue, not a coil issue. Screw around with your switch matrix plugs on the board. check all your switches. Make sure the diode isn't smashed, missing, or backwards. make sure something on the switches isnt' touching something it shouldn't. Inspect the molex plugs to the board for the switch matrix. I believe there are 2 of them.

Just to make sure, run the coil test and let it cycle through. Make sure all the coils are firing. Then you will know 100% it's a switch issue, not a coil issue.

#26 10 years ago

gotcha, thanks neo

#27 10 years ago

CaptainNeo knows his shit. Had 3 switches in a column row on the matrix open... found a diode bent onto the ground, that was 9 10 and 11. Now I think i am getting 11 12 13 LOL, so will check again later - I am beat. I saw some suspicious ground wiring. I will upload a pic and you let me know what you think.

I found what caused the GI connector to fry, a short on the wiring assembly for the 3 lamps on the far upper left side of the mini pf, charred wires there too LOL. Those 3 lamps dont light up. And half of my backbox gi neither (havent changed all the bulbs yet to verify though). oMost of my pf gi and insert lamps are workin tho so its not TOO big of an issue.

Once I fix these switch matrix shorts and get around to waxing I will be defeating the ballrog in no time!

Magic Eraser'd w/ alcohol the ball swirls on my pf - cleaned up real nice. The inserts are a bigger issue than I anticipated however - had to clean/scratch off the remaining silkscreening - used goo gone and a precision exacto knife but its a fuckin chore. The mylared decals are OK solution but man it would be nice if the silk screening hadn't cracked up on them (yellowing, cracking etc). Mylar free PF. Prolly not gonna clear it when done but may get away with keeping it well waxed instead.

#28 10 years ago

I just cleared mine, but surprisenly, mine didn't suffer from the typical yellowing cracking inserts that 92% of all system 11's suffer from. Does anyone even make a decal set for SOF?

The smashed Diode thing happens a lot and common for switch matrix issues like this. hopefully it didn't fry a chip on the board with whatever it grounded out to. flash_off_plus_new_standups_006.jpgflash_off_plus_new_standups_006.jpg

#29 10 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

I just cleared mine, but surprisenly, mine didn't suffer from the typical yellowing cracking inserts that 92% of all system 11's suffer from. Does anyone even make a decal set for SOF?
The smashed Diode thing happens a lot and common for switch matrix issues like this. hopefully it didn't fry a chip on the board with whatever it grounded out to.

gorgeous SoF, you BASTID! Yea the yellowing cracking thing is my issue for like - half of my inserts, the others are in the yellowing process but not totally fucked. Have you been able to clean them off on another sys11? There has to be a good technique to clean these clear. Yes - there is a decent decal set for SoF. ebay.com link: itm

#30 10 years ago

I could use a new left slingshot plastic :/

#32 10 years ago

I think mylar sucks. But your talking to a playfield restorer as well. If you put that on, any insert printing you have left, will be off when you pull that mylar. Which is not a big deal if your going to restore it down the road anyway. If you use decals, you will need another set down the road as well, as those will be ruined when it comes time to restore. You can't clean the inserts. The checking and yellowing is the shitty lacquer they used on system 11's. Doesn't hold up for shit. Only thing you can do it either restore or use decals for the time being. Use a cuticle pusher and scrape off the insert. Clean it up nice. Make nice crisp edges with it. Take your time. CLean it off with naptha or rubbing alcohol and make sure it's very clean. then put your decal on, start in the middle and rub with the back of your nail from center out. It's as good as it's going to look without clearcoating and restoring. but you wont' have that cracking and yellowing anymore.

#33 10 years ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

I think mylar sucks. But your talking to a playfield restorer as well. If you put that on, any insert printing you have left, will be off when you pull that mylar. Which is not a big deal if your going to restore it down the road anyway. If you use decals, you will need another set down the road as well, as those will be ruined when it comes time to restore. You can't clean the inserts. The checking and yellowing is the shitty lacquer they used on system 11's. Doesn't hold up for shit. Only thing you can do it either restore or use decals for the time being. Use a cuticle pusher and scrape off the insert. Clean it up nice. Make nice crisp edges with it. Take your time. CLean it off with naptha or rubbing alcohol and make sure it's very clean. then put your decal on, start in the middle and rub with the back of your nail from center out. It's as good as it's going to look without clearcoating and restoring. but you wont' have that cracking and yellowing anymore.

Great restoration advice, I was considering taking out the inserts themselves, but I was apprehensive about being able to properly put them back in, or possibly cracking an insert trying to take them out.

#34 10 years ago

This guy makes it look incredibly easy....

#35 10 years ago

never take out inserts unless they are really loose and falling out already. You'll end up getting spider cracks in them. Removing inserts is only when you absolutely have to. Never do it because you think you need to. More playfields have been ruined from this stupid logic than any other methods.

#36 10 years ago

Alright, just testing you . This guy makes it look stupid easy.

#37 10 years ago

it's not as easy as he makes it look. I've never had good success with heat. Especially if someone else reglued them in anytime in it's life. 70% of all inserts i've tried to take out, either spider cracked, or shattered into a million pieces. The older the game, the more fragile the inserts are too. It's just to risky and there isn't any reason to do it, unless it's already loose and you can pop it out with your finger.

#38 10 years ago

Ok, ill try to scrape with a cuticle pusher and sand by hand after

#39 10 years ago

Ok CaptainNeo and anybody else willing to help:

This is really frustrating but I have narrowed down a few things. When I press the left flipper button - then ball trough middle (thats the end ball switch correct?) activates. Also, the upper middle flipper doesnt activate. If I hit it enough times it clears all balls and ends game or triggers a tilt.

I am hopelessly fucked/frustraed and not sure how to go about fixing this :/ so I stepped away to post this SoS.

#40 10 years ago

Bump for the morning tech crew

#41 10 years ago

Im trying to read and follow what the flipper buttons connect to and what they activate along the way in the switch matrix but the manual is super confusing. I wish it were written in english lol. Should I just check each diode in column where I am having problems?

#42 10 years ago

You need to reread post #3. The tests are all there for a reason and are designed to solve the problems you are describing. If you don't teach yourself how to use them or, have someone else show you how to use them, you are pretty much ****ed.

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