(Topic ID: 28249)

Soldering question

By natdawg

11 years ago


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  • 24 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 years ago by natdawg
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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    #1 11 years ago

    So, does anyone have any tips on how to hold everthing your trying to solder in place? I'm doing a flipper rebuild and I had to quit b/c I was doing a terrible job trying to chase the wires with solder in one hand and the iron in the other lol. Been trying to look up vidoes but no luck yet. Thanks all.

    #3 11 years ago
    Quoted from TaylorVA:

    I use a hemostat.

    +1

    Keeps you from burning your fingertips too.

    #4 11 years ago

    Maybe I'm doing something wrong but I'm trying to do the soldering in mid air, the wires are hanging down from the underside of the playfield so I don't see how using a hemostat would help in this situation...unless, could I cut a pieces of solder and lay it on the wire then use hemostat to hold in place and iron it down?

    Yeah if you can't tell, I've never soldered before.

    #5 11 years ago

    Flow some solder on the lug, flow some solder on the stripped wire. Clamp the wire to the the lug and apply the iron, the solder will flow into itself.

    #6 11 years ago

    what you do is get your wires knitted together like you want them, and then use the hemostat to clamp the joint together so you can have both hands to work the iron & solder.

    The beautiful thing about it is that your solder will flow into the wires but never stick to the ends of the hemostat.

    #7 11 years ago

    Do you have a good soldering station? That is key. If you are using a crappy $20 pen, that's the first mistake.

    #8 11 years ago

    I use the same method as TaylorVA. I don't use a soldering station for flipper rebuilds, I use a cheap radio shack 30 watt soldering iron. While others might disagree, I think you should have a soldering station for board work and a separate soldering iron for playfield coils and switches. Just my 2 cents.

    Tom

    #9 11 years ago

    I have an iron and station but usually use the station as it is always out. I also like seeing that my iron is hot enough before I do any work. You can also swap tips depending on what you're working on.

    #10 11 years ago

    If you attach your wires as shown in the pic below, they'll hold themselves in place. This way provides the greatest mechanical strength.

    613-26.gif613-26.gif

    #11 11 years ago

    Here is a great video on soldering. It may not be about soldering onto switches, but it explains technique pretty good.

    (great Vid)

    #12 11 years ago

    I have two brothers who both have careers in electronics. When they came to visit me and checkout my new hobby. The sent me back to soldering school. First thing they told me was park the solder pencil (it is for board work) I purchased a nice gun and use it almost exclusively under the play field. It has made all the difference .

    #13 11 years ago

    Thanks for the video badpenny61, that explains exactly what my problem was (I think lol). I'm pretty sure that the wires I was attempting to solder were not hot enough, maybe next time I will hold the iron to the wires for a few sec. Although I was having trouble I did manage to melt what I believe was a wire guard that was added (sorry I don't know the tech. term, the wire replacement didn't come with a cover so I was just using the old one)

    #14 11 years ago
    Quoted from Skypilot:

    I have two brothers who both have careers in electronics. When they came to visit me and checkout my new hobby. The sent me back to soldering school. First thing they told me was park the solder pencil (it is for board work) I purchased a nice gun and use it almost exclusively under the play field. It has made all the difference .

    Interesting. I have never used anything but my temp controlled Weller since buying it, and use it for everything. Whether it is a lug, large ground on a board, on a crappy little DE board with weak traces, I know the station and the temps required like the back of my hand now, and everything solders perfectly. I can't imagine having anything else, other than my newly purchased hakko 808 for desoldering.

    #15 11 years ago

    So, does anyone have any tips on how to hold everthing your trying to solder in place? I'm doing a flipper rebuild and I had to quit b/c I was doing a terrible job trying to chase the wires with solder in one hand and the iron in the other lol. Been trying to look up vidoes but no luck yet. Thanks all.

    i use a "helping hands" tool. same method from electronics school, 20+ years ago. take the magnifier and block off, and use the bar with the two clips. attach one section to something secure like a coil bracket, other section with the wire(s). secure it so it doesn't move. apply heat, solder and bingo. works great for vertical playfield work. you can pick one up at the shack for $10-15 or order on online.

    900-037.jpg900-037.jpg

    #16 11 years ago
    Quoted from TaylorVA:

    I use a hemostat.

    My first thought as well. I've used this method with great results. Clamp wire to lugs, other wires, whatever, then take your time and make it look perfect. On the bench or in-game. Alternately I use the helping hands setup on my bench.

    #17 11 years ago

    The key to a successful solder joint with wire is a solid mechanical connection first.

    #18 11 years ago
    Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

    The key to a successful solder joint with wire is a solid mechanical connection first.

    If you can, a coil lug doesn't have a hole so the contact is just solder on the pad.

    Quoted from natdawg:

    Thanks for the video badpenny61, that explains exactly what my problem was (I think lol). I'm pretty sure that the wires I was attempting to solder were not hot enough, maybe next time I will hold the iron to the wires for a few sec. Although I was having trouble I did manage to melt what I believe was a wire guard that was added (sorry I don't know the tech. term, the wire replacement didn't come with a cover so I was just using the old one)

    You need to flow solder onto the wire first. If you have flow solder on the pad and onto the wires you actually won't even need a hemostat, I just use as the heat hurts like hell.

    #19 11 years ago
    Quoted from TaylorVA:

    If you can, a coil lug doesn't have a hole so the contact is just solder on the pad.

    I've never seen a coil lug without a hole... you may have to soldapullt it, but there's a hole there.......

    I'll post pics after I get home..

    #20 11 years ago

    I've never seen a coil lug without a hole... you may have to soldapullt it, but there's a hole there.......
    I'll post pics after I get home..

    There is a hole but your not going to fit any wires thought it.

    image.jpgimage.jpg

    #21 11 years ago

    I do it all the time...that's why I said I'd post pics when I get home. I'm in the middle of doing my PF swap on Space Shuttle, and have already attached some coils, and I promise, they have much bigger holes than what's in that pic.. I even have a clean coil from PBL I can desolder for example. God knows it's not useful for anything else...one of the lugs broke off it in shipping.

    #22 11 years ago

    Well it's not perfect but I got one fixed, I also tried to cut down on the noise by putting a small piece of fabric between the contact points. Thing I gotta figure out now is how to align the flipper correctly.

    #23 11 years ago
    Quoted from natdawg:

    Well it's not perfect but I got one fixed, I also tried to cut down on the noise by putting a small piece of fabric between the contact points. Thing I gotta figure out now is how to align the flipper correctly.

    Have you been here yet?

    http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

    #24 11 years ago

    Nice link, very helpful. I didn't know about the gap between the brushing or the exact gap in the end of stroke switch. What I didn't see though (may have overlooked it) was what angle to set the flippers to when you reassemble.

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