(Topic ID: 198228)

My EM Journey - Sky Jump (help & comments welcome)

By spinal

6 years ago


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  • 76 posts
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  • Latest reply 5 years ago by ImNotNorm
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There are 76 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 6 years ago

I'm newer to EMs, just added Sky Jump (Gottlieb, 1974) to my collection and hope to share my EM journey below. Your help and comments are very appreciated so thank you in advance!

I was told it was working when I purchased it (wasn't there in person) and after fixing a loose connection, played 3 balls, heard a buzzing start in the backbox, played 20 sec more and then couldn't play anymore - lights on but can't start a game anymore.

I've checked wire connections and it looks OK other than black wire (pic attached). Anyone know if this should be connected? Otherwise, any ideas where I should start?

(Learning the hard way that EM's can be pretty frustrating but I'm learning patience patience)

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#2 6 years ago
Quoted from spinal:

I've checked wire connections and it looks OK other than black wire (pic attached). Anyone know if this should be connected?

That black wire should be soldered on to the tab next to the other one,. The contact shoes for that side of that unit.

#3 6 years ago

Thanks Darcy, OK soldered wire (see pic). When I turn it on, score reels don't reset, just lights are on and otherwise no response.

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#4 6 years ago

"Buzzing in the backbox" aka one of your scoring relays is locked on. Probably a stuck pf switch. check to see which scoring relay, 10,s or 100's then look for the pf feature

#5 6 years ago

OK thanks pinhead52, but now that score reels not resetting, how do I test? Previously I would set all to 1 and restart game.

Q: is it possible for a stuck score reel to damage other parts of pin? As mentioned in original post, game was working, then heard buzz, went to take look and now whole game doesn't work. Is this possible?

#6 6 years ago
Quoted from spinal:

OK thanks pinhead52, but now that score reels not resetting, how do I test? Previously I would set all to 1 and restart game.
Q: is it possible for a stuck score reel to damage other parts of pin? As mentioned in original post, game was working, then heard buzz, went to take look and now whole game doesn't work. Is this possible?

If you switch all the reels to zero does the game start?

#7 6 years ago

Thanks Matesamo. Ok, was manually zeroing the score reels and found that I cannot manually advance the 10-thousand score reel. Pressing it all the way in does not move it so something here is definately not working. Also saw the 'X' mark written on this one.

Is next step to rebuild this score reel? Is the only way to remove it to unsolder all wires?

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#8 6 years ago

If the scoring relay was stuck on then this also fires the reel solenoid and yes, the solenoid can be damaged... can you manually advance the reel? if not time to rebuild

#9 6 years ago

(Thanks again)
I cannot manually advance the 10-thousand score reel like I can the others (currently on 0 now). Since All set to zero now, I turned on machine and nothing when I start a new game, just GI and no sounds from anywhere so I'm guessing this issue had fried something else.

One more clue is that the first game I played I played a few balls before it stopped and this must have been because I had not yet reached 10,000 points. When that happened, score reel must have tried to advance and then something fried.

1. OK so first step to unsolder score reel right?

2. Also, what else could have fried because this was stuck?

#10 6 years ago
Quoted from spinal:

Since All set to zero now, I turned on machine and nothing when I start a new game, just GI and no sounds from anywhere so

Eliminate the easy stuff. Are there credits on the game (credit wheel shows something other than 0)? Do switches on the credit unit close as the credit unit steps away from 0?

Quoted from spinal:

1. OK so first step to unsolder score reel right?

I wouldn't recommend unsoldering the score reel. There should be enough slack in the wires that you can disassemble it. Most of the connections go to the board which is held in place by an E clip and a couple of screws. Then there are a few connections to the frame for the switches and a couple more to the solenoid. If your solenoid was stuck on and overheated it may have swollen and clamped down on the plunger. If that's the case you'll need to unsolder and replace the solenoid. Otherwise I'd leave the connections intact and diagnose/clean the mechanical parts. You may want to get a good light on the score reel to work on it, but that's still easier than trying to remove it so you can work on it on the bench.

/Mark

#11 6 years ago

Very helpful comments - thanks Mark! I will report back. Cheers!

#12 6 years ago

As to fried... check the scoring relays. I have a 4 foot alligator jumper I use to test suspect coils...

#13 6 years ago

Don't know if this will help but I was cleaning up a fellas sky jump this spring and had it working great. Twice it seemed to lock up on me where the start button wouldn't start a game, nothing would work. I pushed the reset relay by hand and it reset... then it seemed to work after that. Almost like it needed a jump start.

#14 6 years ago

Thanks for the help and comments everyone

Update: I'm taking the methodical approach now and checking components in more detail than I ever have before and I've found a number of issues that need addressing first.

First, I checked the relays in the backbox (N,M,L) and most of them have switches that need adjusting (always on).

Also, stepper F sticky movement and not aligning well.

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#15 6 years ago

Also noticed this on 10 times value relay inside cabinet

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#16 6 years ago

Also noticed a rollover switch with no gap so all these issues need to be fixed. Enjoying the process so far

#17 6 years ago

Question: Anyone with a Sky Jump able to post high res pics here of where these stickers are supposed to go? "Ten thousands unit" I know.

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#18 6 years ago

Question: I'm assuming this pin is not factory right? (Hold relay R)

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#19 6 years ago

Question: Is there supposed to be pin holding this large backbox stepper (center of image)? (Pin only on right side but missing on left)

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#20 6 years ago

Question: How does my transformer look to you? Normal?

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#21 6 years ago

BTW bought this cheap lamp at IKEA and it works great. Might have to put cloth under clamp to protect cab though.

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#22 6 years ago
Quoted from spinal:

Question: I'm assuming this pin is not factory right? (Hold relay R)

Quoted from spinal:

Question: Is there supposed to be pin holding this large backbox stepper (center of image)? (Pin only on right side but missing on left)

Yes and yes.

#23 6 years ago

Your transfomer is set to high tap! tisk tisk, note the red lead is on the tap that is labeled "high".

Primary fuse.. near transformer. slo blo fuse label, near bank. 00-90 unit, that little stepper you are looking at, "F". 1000 pt relay, L

If you had the cir diagram you could answer most of these. how about the "Replay Unit", this one is pretty obvious

#24 6 years ago

Label that starts "inside switch" sure sounds like the replay unit switches...

#25 6 years ago

Thanks for responses. Yeah, schematics on their way so will be easier then.

#26 6 years ago
Quoted from spinal:

Enjoying the process so far

That game looks very clean inside, have you been cleaning it?

#27 6 years ago

Vacuumed a bit but have yet to clean/rebuild any components. Has 72,000 plays.

#28 6 years ago
Quoted from spinal:

Question: Anyone with a Sky Jump able to post high res pics here of where these stickers are supposed to go? "Ten thousands unit" I know.

The tags that say "Inside SW Reset Relay" go on the score reels. The one with a "Third SW" I think is the Hundreds reel. You can easily tell, since it's the one with a third switch

The "Bank Set Up... 1A SB" goes under the reset bank on the control panel

The Primary fuse is back by the transformer. It's where the line voltage comes in.
Incidentally, if you replace the cord with a polarized plug, you want the "narrow" blade side of the cord to connect to this fuse.

1000 point relay in the backbox
Coin Mech is on the coin door
Right and Left Pop bumper relay under the playfield
00-09 in the backbox
2 plays 25c on the apron

1 month later
#29 6 years ago

=======================

OK, I'm back again and have made some progress so will be doing some updates here.

First of all got my package in the mail which included, along with parts, the manual and schematic so this makes it much easier to see what is going on.

The first thing I forgot at one point was to check for credits (thanks MarkG). Since this was my first game not set to free play, I forgot this

On credit stepper I pressed this coil in and got more credits:

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#30 6 years ago

I had a number of lights out so I decided to change all light bulbs to 47s. I started on bottom of playfield by bending back holders a bit and changing bulbs.

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#31 6 years ago

Then replaced remainder from topside of playfield:

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#32 6 years ago

Finally, replaced all bulbs except for blinking bulb in backbox. For many bulbs, I found using my new bulb remover indispensable (basically almost impossible to do without).

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#33 6 years ago

Everything looked so much better after changing all the bulbs since eventhough some old bulbs were still working, they all seemed to look a bit different so I'm glad I changed them all.

#34 6 years ago

I had also resolved another issue and that was that the middle pop was sticking on after each time it was hit.

Since I'm a new at this, the first thing I did was rebuild the middle pop. Took apart, cleaned the parts and rebuilt using the pbresource pop rebuild kit and then reassembled.

Then tested it and it still stuck after being hit... Arg!!

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#35 6 years ago

If you look at your schematic, Center "Pop bumper" fires from Q.

Q energises from the spoon on the pop, then locks itself on via a switch on Q.
Q should de-energise when the EOS switch on the centre pop opens.

Is the EOS switch not opening?

#36 6 years ago

By looking at schematic, left pop is activated by Q relay so that was the next thing I took a look at.

Here is a thread where I asked some questions about switch stacks while rebuilding relay Q:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sky-jump-relay-switch-stack-questions

Yay! And after this, middle pop was no longer sticking on! I can see now how working on games opens up a new level of appreciation of pinball - really enjoying the journey!

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#37 6 years ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

If you look at your schematic, Center "Pop bumper" fires from Q.
Q energises from the spoon on the pop, then locks itself on via a switch on Q.
Q should de-energise when the EOS switch on the centre pop opens.
Is the EOS switch not opening?

Thanks for your comment - yes I rebuilt Q and now center pop not sticking on.

#38 6 years ago
Quoted from spinal:

Thanks for your comment - yes I rebuilt Q and now center pop not sticking on.

Awesome.

Quoted from spinal:

The first thing I forgot at one point was to check for credits (thanks MarkG). Since this was my first game not set to free play, I forgot this

If you want it set to freeplay, the zero pos. "replay" unit switch (the middle one on the replay unit) can be either bent or jumpered so it never opens. I prefer the latter as it's trivial to reverse:
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#39 6 years ago

So my plan for this thread is to detail the steps I am taking to get this Sky Jump into top form so it might be helpful to others.

To that end, it's about time I check all the fuses (which is something one should do earlier on I know).

Sky Jump has a 10 and 15 amp fuse for the lights and another 15 amp for main 25V circuit.

The first thing I find is that a 10A and 15A are switched so put those in the right place. The 5A slow-blow main is correct.

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#40 6 years ago

Target bank reset fuses are correct at 2A slow-blow. How do you know which are which? Just check wire colors on schematics.

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#41 6 years ago

But wait, sequence bank fuse is 5A slow-blow so changed that to correct value of 1A slow-blow.

Fuses are now all correct. What I've learned is that people put all kinds of wrong fuses into machines so take a look and put in correct ones.

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#42 6 years ago
Quoted from spinal:

But wait, sequence bank fuse is 5A slow-blow so changed that to correct value of 1A slow-blow.
Fuses are now all correct. What I've learned is that people put all kinds of wrong fuses into machines so take a look and put in correct ones.

Yup. People seem to see a fuse blowing as a problem in and of itself, rather than a symptom of something being wrong down the line. Then they complain when the smoke comes out. I tend to check them first thing when a machine comes in because aside from the risk of things being overfused, occasionally I can save myself buying a fuse. eg. if the main fuse was missing/wrong, the fuse you got from the reset bank would be a replacement.

#43 6 years ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

If you want it set to freeplay, the zero pos. "replay" unit switch (the middle one on the replay unit) can be either bent or jumpered so it never opens. I prefer the latter as it's trivial to reverse:

Thanks very much, just jumpered middle credit switch and free play works now

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#44 6 years ago

Q: Can anyone recommend what foam is best to glue onto lockdown bar here? Where to buy? What glue is best for this? (Thanks)

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#45 6 years ago
Quoted from spinal:

Q: Can anyone recommend what foam is best to glue onto lockdown bar here? Where to buy? What glue is best for this? (Thanks)

Search for,, 'Replacing the Beer Seal, Vids Guide'. You may need a short trip to Home Depot or Lowes.

#46 6 years ago

Found the thread, thanks Darcy:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-the-beer-seal-vids-guide

Watched some Vic Camp vids of his Gottlieb collection recently and saw he uses much wider gray seals on his pins so will have to check into what width is best for mid-70s gottliebs.

(at 9:00)

#47 6 years ago
Quoted from spinal:

Found the thread, thanks Darcy:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-the-beer-seal-vids-guide
Watched some Vic Camp vids of his Gottlieb collection recently and saw he uses much wider gray seals on his pins so will have to check into what width is best for mid-70s gottliebs.
» YouTube video
(at 9:00)

The thickness of the foam is important. If the new foam is not the same thickness there is some adjustment with the 2 screws on your lock down bar.

#48 6 years ago

Good coverage, glad to see a nice game get some love. Can easily use plunger rubber to do the work you are with bulb tool.
Have found those schematics and manual online for DL in PDF. Might want to consider instead of incan-lights to go to the
newer soft white LED and save $$$ on electricity, and likely never change a bulb again. Some mods like TAs drill and thread
will make taking off plastics and cleaning a breeze. Does take some thrill and nuts to drill a PF through without messing up
the wiring underside. The relay you posted for pop bumper looks to have a leaf on it broken, then replaced and soldered.
Get the leaf from a parts game, or from someone online or in your hood, and replace it by taking apart the stack (a few photos help)
then unpack the spacers (take photos) and then adjust and put back together. Also as someone else mentioned, make sure to
get the EOS verified working both physically and electrically. Good luck with it all, its a top attention getter in most collections that have it.

#49 6 years ago

Thanks for all the comments! I am slowly going through them and will post questions/comments/updates.

Until then, I have a question...

For the drop target assembly, what size are these hex screws? None of my set of SAE hex tools work.

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#50 6 years ago
Quoted from spinal:

For the drop target assembly, what size are these hex screws? None of my set of SAE hex tools work.

The allen key I use measures .135" across the flats which I think is 9/64"?

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