Saskatoon, SK
Those are #8-32 x 1/4 socket head cap screws, and they are indeed 9/64". Length on this chart is different, the rest is the same.
(Topic ID: 198228)
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Sky Jump
Gottlieb, 1974
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Thanks for confirming! Is boltdepot a better place to order these kinds of non-pinball specific parts? Seems like good prices.
Overland Park, KS
Quoted from MikeO:For onesy twosy parts like a socket head cap screw I would go to the specialty hardware drawers at the local Ace Hardware or True Value Hardware where I live. Not sure what they have there in Edmonton.
Or, and more likely you can find this in chrome finish or black...
http://tinyurl.com/Fastenal-8-32-1-4
These guys have come through for me when I need them most, expensive but have them or can order to deliver.
What I'd like to see is someone with this in their bins of extras (I have 100s of these in parts, but not on site right now)
to donate them to you with good will and a smile. Just go through your entire game and make a list of stuff you need
so its a one stop shop here at Schlotz-Slide parts Emporium.
You may also, if not already done so, read and then re-read this tip list from one of the best EM 'hacks' out there. He just 'gets it done.'
http://tuukan.fliput.net/tim_en.html
as well listen to Steve Yate's tutorial (on the page linked below) on read schematics. And since you now apparently into EMs,
listen to Tom Taylors talk and Steve Kordek, both well worth the time and information. 2007 was back when Expo was still
worth going and the talks were interesting and informative. Tom's collection is quite nice, but is to my knowledge being sold
off slowly for a retirement move down south. Apparently Southern Ill is not as appealing of a 'God's Country' than is the warm
world of FL or the ilk.
https://www.pinballnews.com/shows/expo2007/index3.html
Good luck in all things you are doing in EM land.
Thanks again for all your comments everyone. I am going through them in detail, ordering parts and will get back to them here.
Currently I'm in the middle of rebuilding the drop target assembly and have a separate thread for that:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-gtb-sky-jump-drop-target-teardown-rebuild
Some thoughts I have on being new to EM repair:
- learning patience, patience and just taking one step at a time
- being a dad means sometimes 15 minutes one day and 30 min free the next. Patience, patience and more patience 
- part ordering patience: make a list of parts you need, order and wait, wait, wait. Oh, I forgot a part in that order so can't finish so order again, wait, wait, wait and do it all again. Once one has a basic set of parts to fall back on this must get better.
- Canadian shipping is like being punched in the face each time! Not any sellers fault, about 5 years ago Canada post lost its mind and we have been hurting ever since. On the plus side, Amazon Prime with free shipping is a godsend!
- no tools, no fix. Took me some time to get a basic set of tools for this hobby - general tools like a good digital multimeter as well as special tools like a switch adjuster, bulb remover etc. Amazon Prime coming through here with free shipping.
- take lots of pictures before taking anything apart - very important
- step one for me is always get the manual & schematics.
- Wouldn't be possible without all the help from fellow collectors on Pinside so thanks everyone 
Just love this hobby!
Cheers
3 weeks later
Update: I was having some issues with the drop targets so I decided to completely rebuild them (also as a learning exercise so I become more familiar with basic EM hardware). Detailed pics and comments on every step I took can be found here:
That machine just brings a smile to my face, It's so clean (inside and out)!
Are you considering bringing this machine to Yegpin? It would be so awesome to see more EM's in 2018! Especially machines in this good of shape!
Agree, I would love to see more EMs there next year! I still have a number of issues to resolve here and progress is slow but I'll try to get it working.
1 month later
Thanks for checking in! Had a money order lost in the mail so have been waiting for parts for some time. All resolved and parts are on their way - will post hopefully soon. Cheers.
OK got my order so onward we go...
Next step, replace with new grounded cord. Looks like the community is split on this but I'm doing it because power switch and front door is grounded so makes sense to connect to house ground. Cord needs replacing anyway.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/do-you-ground-your-ungrounded-ems-poll
This 14' one from PBR ($6.35) is on the left:
http://www.pbresource.com/tools.html
(Search for CORD-SET-14)
My old one is to the right.
After removing playfield, here is where we're at...
Currently on high tap which I will move back to normal (notice poor solder job).
Also notice no ground coming in but green wire running to power switch and coin door. Ribbed portion of power cord goes to fuse (neutral).
image (resized).jpeg
Thanks to vid for this:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide
New power cord installed, green ground to base, ribbed to fuse (just like before) and moved red to normal. Wires got a bit hot so melted together a bit but this shouldn't make a difference. Next time I will twist hot black and two whites together, then tin and solder instead of running separately as I did here. Anyway, I'm learning a lot, solder connections are strong and shiny so I'm good to go (I keep telling myself anyway )
image (resized).jpeg
Added over 6 years ago: Note that ultimately I connected hot to fuse and neutral (ribbed) to transformer as recommended by everyone. Thanks for everyone's input.
Quoted from hlaj78:Just curious: What's wrong with high tap?
Since I've rebuilt many parts of this machine, I want to start with factory setting and see how it plays.
Quoted from MikeO:I don’t have my notes with me but I believe you want to follow the ribbed line to the fuse like exists on your old cord. Other line goes to the transformer. Ground goes to the transfomer base.
Thanks Mike! You're fast - was just posting pics
Quoted from MikeO:I don’t have my notes with me but I believe you want to follow the ribbed line to the fuse like exists on your old cord. Other line goes to the transformer. Ground goes to the transfomer base.
We want as little of the electrics to be hot when the switch is open. Looking at the schematic:
pasted_image (resized).png
With the switch open:
- If the active/hot is on the right, everything under the transformer is connected to hot except the main fuse. Bumping the reset coils hurts and there's no fuse in the circuit if you ground them.
- If the active/hot is on the left, the active/hot is connected to the fuse and then the switch.
Therefore we want the active/hot to go to the fuse and the neutral to complete the circuit on the transformer.
Rather than try to remember where ribbed goes and trusting that the plug is correctly wired, I test the wiring of the plug and look at a power point:
pasted_image (resized).png
The wire to which ever pin goes into the hot side of the socket should go the fuse holder, the neutral should go to the transformer and ground goes to the base.
Quoted from ajfclark:We want as little of the electrics to be hot when the switch is open. Looking at the schematic:
With the switch open:
If the active/hot is on the right, everything under the transformer is connected to hot except the main fuse. Bumping the reset coils hurts and there's no fuse in the circuit if you ground them.
If the active/hot is on the left, the active/hot is connected to the fuse and then the switch.
Therefore we want the active/hot to go to the fuse and the neutral to complete the circuit on the transformer.
Rather than try to remember where ribbed goes and trusting that the plug is correctly wired, I test the wiring of the plug and look at a power point:The wire to which ever pin goes into the hot side of the socket should go the fuse holder, the neutral should go to the transformer and ground goes to the base.
I was going to say, I always thought the hot lead goes to the fuse and the neutral to the transformer, with the ground going to the base.
Quoted from ajfclark:We want as little of the electrics to be hot when the switch is open. Looking at the schematic:
With the switch open:
If the active/hot is on the right, everything under the transformer is connected to hot except the main fuse. Bumping the reset coils hurts and there's no fuse in the circuit if you ground them.
If the active/hot is on the left, the active/hot is connected to the fuse and then the switch.
Therefore we want the active/hot to go to the fuse and the neutral to complete the circuit on the transformer.
Rather than try to remember where ribbed goes and trusting that the plug is correctly wired, I test the wiring of the plug and look at a power point:The wire to which ever pin goes into the hot side of the socket should go the fuse holder, the neutral should go to the transformer and ground goes to the base.
Thanks for your post! This led me to check all six of my wedgeheads and found 3 wired one way and 3 the other. 
Really was not expecting this so started a poll and separate thread as I'm interested why (at least it seems like) Gottlieb did both ways.
That's the best thing about pinside, I post a pic and then I learn so much more than I ever thought. I'm still pondering your post ajfclark... (thanks again)
1 week later
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