(Topic ID: 133197)

Setting the optimal table angle

By Tanooki

8 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 years ago by Tanooki
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 8 years ago

I've been tooling around for a bit and I never can seem to quite find a nice happy place on how to set my first table I got Gold Ball up right. As it sits the maximum I can set it with the legs that came with it is a 5 degree angle. I've been all over the manual, it doesn't mention a recommended angle to set the table at. Does anyone know what this old table would be best set at? My Pinbot the manual specifically says they want it at a 6 degree angle so I have it set to that, and if Gold Ball had one I'd like to get the intent of the feel of it.

#2 8 years ago

Do you have short feet or long shaft feet? You need long feet in the back to get any real rake out of early games. I find early solid state games play best at 6 degrees and newer ss games play best at 6.5 degrees. [assuming the flippers work perfect]
You can also try removing the nut on top of the foot and then screw in the foot again and put the nut on last. That will give you another 1/4'' at least .

#3 8 years ago

Typically 5.5 to 6.5 degrees for early SS. I use 3" levelers on the rear legs. Every game is different and it all depends on your personal taste and the way the physics work at a given angle.

I'll give you a couple examples:

Quicksilver I have set at 5.7 degrees. 6 degrees made it faster, but 5.5-5.7 degrees allowed more bounce, more side to side movement making it much more unpredictable.

Xenon I have set at 6.5 degrees. Game is way too easy at lower angles....more bounce up top means the saucer is scored more, also easier for the pops to kick it back up top into the saucer again. With the steeper angle the tube shot requires more accuracy and the ball seems to bounce into the inlane/outlane area more instead of bouncing off the tube exit or drop target rubbers. I had to put a piece of 2x4 under the rear legs to make it this steep.

#4 8 years ago

Agreed! Every game is different. As long as you can hit the games sweet spot you are good to go. As dothedoo says. Make sure you get that proper bounce with the right amount of speed . Too long of ball times....rake it up a half a degree etc etc... Season to taste..

#5 8 years ago

Have you tried using the pinguy table leveling app? I use it on my tables and it works great. It has spoken directions so you can level your table without having to constantly crawl out to check. You can also save your table settings for quick reference to check if you are out of alignment.

#6 8 years ago

Get a digital level and a couple of boards. Then start writing it down. Go farther than you think you should, then play a test game. Every table has a sweet spot that you are looking for. Everything that everyone says (including the manual) is a suggestion when it comes to pitch. Do you like games fast? Boost it up. Floaty? Drop it some. The end result is just personal preference.

You'll know when you find it. The game should be mean. I think they last longer in a home environment that way. You'll know if you went too far as well.

#7 8 years ago

I have found for all of my early SS pins I need to put 3" legs on the back. I always put the leveler all the way out with just enough room to put a nut on the top and bottom of the leveler on the back legs. I don't trust the old, rusty threads with the leveler all the way out.

On the front I do as Hawk007 recommended. Move the nut on top of the leg and get an extra 1/4" to lower the front of the pin.

When I do this all of my early Bally SS pins are just barely at 6 degrees, which feels right to me.

#8 8 years ago

Yes I do have pinguy and I do use it, that's how I knew what level I maxed out at as I went dangerously to the top of the rear leg risers and all 4 of them are 3" from base of the foot to top of the bolt.

I've as I said had it from one extreme to the other, and it just seems floaty up top where it'll bang around for awhile in the pop bumper area, and above there in those 4 lanes it'll do a slow bounce repeatedly off the rubbers there usually many times before it settles between one of them (it doesn't just like bounce one maybe two times and slot into there.) That's why I was wondering if there was an ideal setting.

One thing I've noticed that does change depending on the angle is how it can go to being super common more than once a game where the ball will hit the bumper above the right flipper which will sling it over to the one on the left which is unpowered, but the ricochet will pocket it into that right outlane which gets infuriating when it can happen like 3-4x a game on a 5 ball game. The elevation has affected that, but not the top. I don't mind speed, but I don't like it floating so much if it wasn't intended to.

#9 8 years ago

My simple rule of thumb is to get the angle as steep as I can and still make the ramps reliably (assuming, of course, that the pin even has ramps). That varies considerably from pin to pin.

#10 8 years ago

That's a good rule because if the ramps are inoperable or unreliable due to the angle, you pushed it too far. Gold Ball though is an early SS from Bally, and they designed it to be an EM table like knockoff so no ramps, no crazy items on the table, no animated stuff or mechanicals. Just a spinner, some lanes, various targets (circle, not drops), and 3 pop bumpers and that's really it so there's no ramp to screw up. It's why I like it, it's an EM throwback but with SS parts.

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