(Topic ID: 98210)

Restoring steel with dull gray splotches

By ForceFlow

9 years ago


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  • 36 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by ForceFlow
  • Topic is favorited by 6 Pinsiders

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    #15 9 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    I wasn't able to find 800 grit 9"x11" sheets in standard 5-packs. There's a couple 50-pack on amazon, but that's more sandpaper than I'd ever use. Home Depot and Lowes don't seem to carry it. Where can you typically find some?

    Home Depot only has it precut 4x9" in 800

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-3-2-3-in-x-9-in-Imperial-Wetordry-800-Grit-Sandpaper-Sheets-5-Pack-5922-18-CC/202563281

    So if you want uncut sheets you will have to go to an auto paint store.

    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    Lastly, what techniques should I use for sanding in hard-to-reach places?

    Sandblaster makes quick work of any corrosion

    #19 9 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    I went through the process of sanding it down again. It still left me with fine scratches in the metal in the direction that I was sanding.

    Sandpaper is graded to remove the scratches from the last grade.

    If you sand with 80 and then move up to 120, you are not done with the 120 phase until all the 80 scratches are gone.

    If you leave any 80 scratches, then move up to 220, you are wasting your time, because 220 can't remove 80 scratches.

    Try this experiment on a scrap playfield bracket:

    Sand north to south with 120. Don't press too hard, just let the paper do the work.

    Now sand with 220 but only sand east to west. See how when the final 120 scratch is gone you are "done" with the 220? See the uniform surface when the whole area is 220ed?

    Change the direction of your sanding back to north and south, with each grade change, change sanding direction.

    Now sand out all the 220 scratches with 400, then move to 600, then move to wet 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 and finally 2500. There is again a uniform look when all the previous grade's scratches are gone.

    Now when you finish with the 2500 grit, on a buffing wheel, hit it with Green Compound.

    You now have a mirror finish that looks like chrome.

    -

    You will be amazed at the results, but better than that, the above exercise will etch into your mind the importance of not leaving any scratches from the previous sandpaper grade. If you rush or skip a step, you get to go back a step.

    #25 9 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    Seems a bit pricey for a sheet of sandpaper. I would think there would be more than one in that pack, but so far it seems to say only one.

    The picture shows a box of 50 sheets.

    #27 9 years ago

    Use light oil when wet sanding metal, it will keep the paper from clogging better than water.

    Deep corrosion can show as spotting.

    #31 9 years ago

    You might be sanding through plating on the metal, so you are seeing spots that are still plated.

    Also, sometimes the area around a weld has changed color due to the metals/heat used.

    #33 9 years ago

    Metal is plated for looks (chrome, gold.....) or for protection.

    If you have to sand or blast to remove corrosion, then the protection has outlived it's usefulness (or was poorly done).

    You can just spray cheap poly from a can to protect in a thin coat.

    #35 9 years ago
    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    Are playfield wire guides, scoops, ramps, etc. typically plated?

    Some flat ball guides used to be chrome plated, not so much wire guides or ramps that are usually just stainless.

    Quoted from ForceFlow:

    What about for parts that need to remain electrically conductive, like the tilt assembly?

    Those were probably zinc plated.

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